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anything will work.. although most dust systems are designed using impellers for a reason..

it's made to read from below easier because that's most often how it's used/positioned..

lookin' good.. tagged..

THIS... and just about any "landscaping center" (not nursery or home depot) will GIVE you an adjustment key if you dont have one already.

THIS.. or mount a 3/4" plywood backer plate to the wall (stud to stud) and then mount the reel to THAT.

what panel are you replacing? if it's a "modern panel" then replace it with like and you'll have a TON of breakers that you'll be able to re-use. GE/SquareD/Siemens all make quality gear.

If your wiring and boxes are exposed, you have several options. *leave the fan wired as it is (pullstring operation?) and just hardwire the "plug" into the receptacle box that you have it plugged into. (do this at a minimum) *you can also add a switch for the fan by mounting a switch in a box...

Looks like you've got a history of spending more money than you need to. well.. *than needs to be spent.. (maybe you DO need to spend that much to yield the same results others can do spending far less.)

great find (and friend).. I'm also in the market for an anvil, but just can't seem to run across anyone looking to get rid of one that wants less than $5 lb for it..

in every shop i've ever had, wall space was at a premium, not necesarily floor space. I love the festool fanboys when they chime in with their "go buy a circular saw that cost more than your table saw" answers. OP, just make a saw guide as several others have suggested. I have one that is a...

not that there's anything wrong with your workbench.. But there is a huge difference between a plywood top and a butcher block top (stability, heft, durability, etc). did you look at using some threaded rod and 24ea 2X4s on edge for the work surface?

I was mistaken, I apologize for conflating the issue.

it's always cheaper to fill with dirt than to fill with stone. sometimes, lowering the elevation of the entire building and surrounding area will save you more than the increased cost (of adding french drain and seeding)..

moot point since we dont know anything about the OPs panel..

1/2" breakers are available in both AFCI and GFCI from a number of manufacturers (but not all - i dont think GE makes one). but they ARE available and it IS possible. THIS is a tandem breaker. it's 1" and contains two breakers within the same housing. again, if you want a solution to...

interesting.. most I've seen wont even move if the sensor isn't installed properly.

OP, you just can't base it on what "others have paid for the sitework at their garage". Sitework is one of those things that is particular to any given location. I've even done projects across the street from each other that were wildly different from a pricing standpoint. ignore the post...

isn't the tandem breaker a 1" breaker? can't he replace it with a 1/2" GFCI breaker and another 1/2" breaker? (assuming his panel will accept the 1/2" breakers).. and.. in "this day and age".. I'm shocked at how few people post a picture of what they're asking about..

something seems amiss if you're blowing a thermal fuse with 2 - 40W bulbs. hell, if anything, the fan "should have cooled it down"... :bounce:

I was under the impression that any SUB which is not within the same dwelling as the main/entrance will require it's own grounding electrode (if in the same dwelling, 4 wire feeder is "now required" and has always been preferred). ? if OP connects his ground to his water pipe, it's still only...