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It's true the pads shift a little when it's cycled up/down but in this case it's because of the floor and the pitch. This lift has been moved twice and in my prior 2 homes the shop floor was flat and it didn't move much as it cycled. In fact, at house #2 after it was moved it didn't need any...

Sorry, I don't understand, please elaborate.

the pads are 10x12 which means even less load than you calculated. This was what I was trying to explain earlier. Others have made the point about shear and I agree it's at play, but I don't believe it's a significant issue here.

I appreciate all the replies and input provided. I think the point that I didn't communicate effectively is the areas of the floor/slab that are thin are only a problem for a few of the anchors and the method they need to be set. These are Simpson Strong-Tie DIAB62 anchors and I provided the...

Help me understand the math then, so others can understand this point as well.

It's an interesting idea. A plate could be fabed with a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the anchor. The bead would need to be strong enough to withstand a few hammer blows yet be accessible to grind it away.

My garage floor has a typical slope that pitches towards the opening. I'm shimming the columns/posts so that they are plumb and I can level the carriage.

@Beemer - Another thing that comes to mind is that my existing anchors which are wedge type (mechanical) have sufficient surface area to be effective. They are 2.5" and my concrete is equally thick. They will be fully encapsulated. It's the setting process that's problematic.

I'm not an engineer. My logic is if my slab has only 2500 psi (low grade) concrete and it's at least 2.5 inches thick. Thats 6250 psi. The entire lift and with a car loaded isn't focused on a single square inch. The pads are 10"x 12" (120 sq. inches) at the base which distribute the weight. 120...

Yes, it's a 4 post, I should have said that in the beginning and have edited the first post.

@rockettauto I considered this for securing the3 problematic anchors within their holes. The anchors and grade 8 hardware weren't cheap. I'm not really open to changing direction at this point. Rather, I'm looking for a solution for the 3 holes.

I can assure you that the floor is strong enough to support the lift. It has for the last 5 years. It's only thin in some spots. Its self standing, I'm bolting it down to level the columns.

I ran into a snag while bolting down my 4 post lift. I'm using drop in anchors and while drilling the holes for the anchors (which are 2.5" long) I learned that my floor is less than 3" in some spots. In three of the 12 holes holes I drilled the drill broke through the bottom of the slab...

No affiliation, I just saw that there's been an update to the QST 30/60 model. Warning don't try this at home:

I was a bit worried about the pressure so I did all this outside with the tank tipped on back (it's a vertical model) and "hid" behind the edge as I was waiting for that drain plug to shoot out. Very anticlimactic. I'll try the same as you suggested @Yankeefarmer and I've got some bore brushes...

I have a new to me Craftsman oiless unit - Model #919.165570 It has a drain that looks like this: When the tank moves you can hear the liquid inside so tried draining it, Nothing. So next I took out the drain plug and again Nothing came out. Next I put the drain plug back in and turn it on...

No affiliation. If it could only be this easy for all of us :beer:

redmondjp, was it troublesome from day 1? Would you recommend the unit? There's a lot of copies out there.

I guess its an opportunity to get creative. I may have to mod an evacuator to push oil as well.

Looking for a single tool that can do: evacuates oil - like a mityvac <img src="https://www.toolsource.com/images/prod_images/MIT7201_1200Wx1200H.jpg" width="400" height="400"> oil filler - like a motive power fill <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8886/products/1735.jpg"...