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In my old house, I have a similar problem - but it's because my cool water pipes are not insulated (and unreachable) and they pass right through the furnace room, which is hot. Also, the plumber laid the cold water pipes about an inch above the hot water pipes. So the ambient temperarture in my...

What he said ^. Frame it, square it, sheet it - move on to walls using the same process.

I think I'll seperate out the laundry - have it T right into the stack. I'll cap off the sink and call it good. Thanks all for the feedback!

Thanks. I was thinking the same thing - if there was more space between them, I'd be a little less concerned.

Anyone?

Couple questions for the plumbers please. This is the 1st floor of a 2-story building with two bathrooms, one stacked on top of the other. I'm stuck a little on the drain for the laundry. Photo taken from the bathroom, the other side is the laundry/mech room. Questions are: 1. Is there an issue...

Ok - all I've been reading so far says ERV's dump too much humidity back into air-tight homes (this will be very air tight), and that they are designed for drier climates. Has that changed?

Yes that is my concern - that the HRV gets the moisture from the shower and freezes up in the winter. Zone 7 here, I get winter for 5 months of the year.

Thank you. I agree going with a regular fan might just make the whole thing simpler

I'm building an off-grid building in climate zone 7. I'm going to use an HRV to bring in fresh air and exhaust stale air. I'm wondering if its reasonable to use the exhaust feature of the HRV to pull the moist air from the bathroom and exhaust to the outside, thereby eliminating the need for a...

I've done that a bunch of times because sometimes you just have that material laying around and you want to use it up rather than spending extra. You might consider diluting the glue a touch (or heating it) to increase the viscosity before you roller it onto the board. You want to avoid big...

Seems like the major complaint is size and where/how to carry them. I have a Leatherman Sidekick which is small enough to not be a pain and comes with a clip so I can clip it to the sides of the pocket which keeps it relatively out of the way. That said, I don't use it everyday and only carry...

Lay it out by hand if the math ain't mathin'.

Use a filler. If you can't, then adjust the baseboard back by ¾" or so

I had them with my old BX. They have their application but they need to be chained to the bucket to avoid bending the bucket itself. 2k lbs is a lot - better off carrying that with straps or a chain imo.

How about these: - use gravity, remove low spots, drain as needed - cover with rigid insulation and some dirt as mentioned (doesn't sound like it gets too cold where you are so insulation by itself might work - fill a tank to tide you over the colder times

..... and as you're laying it, don't forget to take a step back a look at it once in awhile to make sure it remains straight.

Use a laser or transit to mark a series of reference lines. Snap a chalk line between them.

They ****

Last year I did what you are proposing - let a slab sit over the winter. I just covered it in tarps, and because I was worried about frost heave, I put some insulation around the perimeter. Figured if I removed the moisture and the frost then it wouldn't heave. It worked - then first thing this...