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I've done a bunch of reading and it's hard to decide. I've done epoxy and polyurea in the last shops. But not all the machines are enclosed so I'll end up with metal chips on the floor that get stuck in boots and scratch the coatings. The lighter colors end up looking really bad in the high...

Miller Dynasty's are a really sweet machine but you might be in lightly used territory with that price range. The other option would be an HTP221. If I was buying for work I would buy the miller. For home I would do the HTP (I just can't justify the cost of a dynasty for the amount of welding...

Is the tap new and sharp? A high quality but dull tap is going to give you trouble. Buy a brand new HSS tap from McMaster and it will have no problem tapping 1'' depth in mild steel.

the 3350 also has a slider inside that toggles between 5-8 and 9-13 shades. Make sure you're not welding on an 8 and thinking it's a 13.

The glass is treated for UV protection all the time so you're always protected. The dimming is just for comfort and to make it dark enough to be able to see. Your eyes aren't damaged or anything to worry about. If it's dark enough that you can see the arc and the puddle and it's not all...

I've never used the NMS300 but the DP700's I've used were really nice. But pretty much everything Newall is going to be high quality. I can't imagine needing to use polar coordinates. So I wouldn't worry about having that feature. I use the half function constantly and every so often the BHC...

Make a couple practice pieces and cut them up. And do some research on what an acceptable braze joint looks like. You should be able to visually inspect a braze joint and confirm it fully wetted. Especially if you have access to both sides. I would just take your time and inspect it and...

Not going to happen with a 120v spot welder. Going to need a top of amps.

It's a 5 minute job with a lathe. If you're going to use it more than once it's worthwhile to have it properly machined. If you're in a pinch then an angle grinder will do the job.

Texas has a lot less to pick from as far as machine tools go. Handles get damaged, that's not a huge issue if the screw isn't bent (even a screw isn't that much). If it runs and sounds good then ~$800 is probably a fair price. If it isn't under power I would try to get closer to $500 or...

Nice work and I like the design. But would recommend some sort of guarding. There's enough things to go wrong on a lathe without having another set of spinning things to catch you.

Carbide end mill works pretty well if you know someone with a mill. A carbide burr also usually works if you can get it in there. You're going to chew up a couple of them. You should be able to buy some NOS or something on ebay. You might be able to get it out with a carbide drill bit if...

Sent you a PM. Agree the threads on the 3/16th portion don't look standard but may just be damaged.

It looks like you're going to be replacing a fair bit of material rebuilding that door. It's hard to see the thickness of the material but I would probably want at least 200 amps. If you tell us the thickness we could give a better recommendation. You're probably talking $750 for an...

Black oxide is pretty much the standard for rust prevention coatings on tooling. There's less effective versions that can be used at home.

Wipe your equipment off before use. Every shop I've ever been in had abrasive dust floating around to some degree. Most had surface grinders near other machine tools. It's typically not practical to have a clean room environment around machine tools. If you have the space and own the...

I have a surface grinder but I'm also mainly do machine work. A mill and a lathe are usually the first steps into machining and have a lot more applicability for day to day repair jobs. Once you start branching out into surface grinder territory you're pretty far into the machining hobby.

Weld is junk but it probably won't explode. If I bought it new I would have it replaced. If I got it used at a garage sale for a couple bucks I'd go ahead and use it while being mindful of the deficient weld. There's really no reason to keep a NEW product with an unacceptable weld.

Lever under the carriage is typical for engine lathes. It will cut threads. A bunch of different brands sell those 1340/1440 engine lathes. So should be plenty of parts available. Short of wrecking it you'll likely never need any parts. So that's not a huge advantage IMO. My preference...

After buying material and consumables it's a tough part to make much on. It's more time consuming that expected. But I did make a drawing and would make a couple more if someone else wants one. If I had a jack handy I could probably redesign the part to be stronger and hopefully mitigate...