Your First MaxJax: What to Expect

JerseyJim · Apr 12, 2009

One of the bad things about being one of the first people to have anything that is brand new is that often the product goes out before spare parts are available. I had a brand new Ford Explorer back in 1998. It had a first year automatic 4 wheel drive system that locked up on me the first time I engaged it. First problem, the dealer didn't have a mechanic trained to fix it. Next problem no spare parts. It took a month to get it back. Another trip to get it fixed correctly.

So far other people were missing parts that were either off the shelf or an option for the lift. The missing parts in this case are required parts. That's the real problem. Same as my Explorer, the product is out there before the spare parts. I can understand that. But nothing is more aggravating than not being told the truth. Better to just fess up and say you don't have them and realistically indicate when they will be in.

As far as being a beta tester. I do that with products that my company engineers. We ask for feedback. We don't require you to fabricate your own missing parts as has been suggested here. I also wouldn't ask you to be my quality control. You can bet that if I have something toll-manufactured (anywhere - not just China) I open and check every one of the first units against the parts list and make sure that at the very least, they go out complete.

I'm sure that this is a learning lesson for the manufacturer. And future customers will be the benefactors. But it's time to take care of this customer and get his lift working.

wachuko · Apr 12, 2009

volvo said:
A quick search over at clubcobra, another site that ran the MaxJax special group purchase, Not a word about any problems or how they like it or deliveries. No comments or posts after the contest. Odd ???

Those folks are too proud? :bounce:

wachuko · Apr 12, 2009

A few photos of the lift in use in the second bay:

cw_racefan · Apr 12, 2009

What's the column width in your second bay? Did you use any adapters to lift the TA? I haven't lifted my TA yet, so was just curious.

wachuko · Apr 12, 2009

cw_racefan said:
What's the column width in your second bay? Did you use any adapters to lift the TA? I haven't lifted my TA yet, so was just curious.

Only used the extensions and the pads that come with the lift.

If it helps in any way, here is what I have experienced so far trying to decide on how far apart to put them.

In the single bay I have mine at 115" (measured from the outside of the base). Getting out of the car is a tight fit. Moving the arms into position is also a tight fit... arms need to be all the way in and, depending on the car, I need to have someone in the car to move forward while I slide the arm in, and them backwards a little to slide the second arm in. Keep in mind that test cars were Porsche 911 ('83, '91, '02). Something with a longer wheel base will not be so much of an issue. I also took into consideration being able to close the garage door with the car on the lift.

In the double bay I have them at 128" (again, measured from the outside of the base) and it works great... easy access to the lifting points, easy to open the doors, still within the 130" limit in the install manual for trucks (eventhough I am using it for smaller cars), and I can slide the arms in and out without having a second person moving the car around.

nmk_61802 · Apr 12, 2009

Care to give us the width and wheel base of your car(s) to help us gauge? I know I could probably find it on the internet with the info that you provided, but it may be quicker going straight to the source.

cw_racefan · Apr 13, 2009

Thanks Wachuko. I mounted mine at I think around 125, and it's a bit of a tight fit to get out of my Tahoe. With my S-10 the arms just barely reach, but it's the narrowest of my vehicles. I just wasn't sure whether to bother with another set of holes closer. I guess the arms are meant to lift at full extension without an issue, so maybe I should stop worrying! :lol_hitti

UPSHIFT · Apr 13, 2009

PowerDubs said:
Ok..I'm starting to get upset now.

When I first got this lift and discovered the missing pieces, it was on a Friday after work so I had to wait until Monday to call Gabe.

That was weekend #1 missed that I couldn't use this lift.

He sounded like he understood everything I explained. (missing wheels, missing safety bars, faulty cart mounting holes...as well as the 2 missing motorcycle hose adaptor pieces) and he assured me he would overnight the parts to me.

On Wednesday I received a box with the missing wheels, but no safety bars and instead of the 2 pieces for the motorcycle hose adaptor that goes on the distribution block I was mistakenly sent another 90 degree elbow that mounts on the pump. (useless)

I immediately called Gabe back and he said he would look into it for me and call me back. I didn't hear anything back that night, or Thursday or Friday from Gabe.

There is weekend #2 that I can't use the lift.

The next week comes and I get a message on this forum from 'Trex-Dannmar' saying Gabe needs my name again because he doesn't remember me, although I have talked to him 2 times in detail as well as posted a couple times to the thread explaining the parts I am missing and posting pictures of the faulty cart.

After I gave 'TrexDannmar' my name on the 7th Gabe called me a few minutes later to tell me he would be overnighting the parts to me. He asked again what the parts were that I was missing and I told him for the 3rd time..safety bars, faulty cart, motorcycle hose adaptor pieces.

So even if he didn't get the order out that day (7th) I was thinking if he got them out on the 8th overnighted that I would get them on the 9th (Thursday)... I was wrong.. Thursday my phone rings and it is Gabe again.. He asks me "what parts do you need again??" I am thinking in my head 'are you kidding me??' I bite my tongue and tell him for the 4th time. He says OK, they are going out overnight. Fine, I've heard that several times now.

Except that I come home from work tonight expecting to see a box sitting next to my house... nothing.

This makes weekend #3 that I won't be able to use the lift. I am fed up.

Gabe is very nice and polite on the phone, but that is worthless if it never solves the problem.

Seriously..I can understand forgetting to ship a part, especailly rolling out a new product to 35 people at once.. But I have a cart with holes drilled wrong, I had no wheels for my towers, no safety bars and the same missing adaptor parts that everyone didn't get. That is a lot of screw ups..and then add to it a bunch of phone calls and promises, another screwed up shipment (wheels but not the other parts)...and now a supposed shipment that is nowhere to be seen?

BUYER BEWARE

Ouch !

Dannmar takes Tremendous Pride in their Quality and Customer Satisfaction, We would never make a promise and not follow through. You received your lift missing 2 wheels, MC adaptor and 2 safety bars. On March 31st a package was sent FED-EX AM delivery and delivered on 4/1/2009 and unfortunately the locking Bars were not with the order and the motorcycle fitting was incorrect. Our Bad so I created another Overnight order on 4/2 and explained we would need to make the Locking Bars and I would get them to him ASAP. PowerDubs please understand we would never forget who you are, we just do not use the GJ user name to find your warranty order that was in process. The new Locking Bars we made and sent out 4/10 Fed-Ex next day air and will be delivered today. 4/13/2009. My call center has 5 different occasions when myself and PowerDubs were in touch about his problems and action has been taken and Parts have been delivered every single time as promised. Please verify you received the two safety bars so we can move on.

Sincerely,
Gabe
Dannmar

rao · Apr 13, 2009

UPSHIFT said:
Dannmar takes Tremendous Pride in their Quality and Customer Satisfaction, We would never make a promise and not follow through.

Really?

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30324

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28374

Glad to see this problem is being taken care of.

PowerDubs · Apr 13, 2009

Pulled in the driveway after work today and I see a box up at the garage. As I get closer, I see something poking out of the side of it and think to myself OH NO.

I took this picture with my phone as soon as I stepped out of the truck..One of the safety bars was hanging out and I was worried that maybe one had already fell out somewhere in transit. I was relieved to see that the other one was also in the box.

There was also 2 hose fittings for the atv adaptor. Gabe had mentioned that there were 2 different styles and to use the one that matched my setup and throw out the other one. There was not one of the required double threaded pieces to mount the hose adaptor. I don't know if it was not included again or fell out the hole, but I imagine I can just go to home depot and purchase one. I need to get a couple drillbits for the floor and to fix the cart anyway.

///Mflossin · Apr 13, 2009

Holy cow! It looks like it was packed like that?! If the box had been crushed there'd have been more collateral damage IMO. So you still didn't get everything you were supposed to get?

Gasket · Apr 13, 2009

rao said:
Really?

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30324

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28374

Glad to see this problem is being taken care of.

Instead of complaining on the internet, I contacted Jeff/Gabe asking if I could still get some type of discount because I was not able to participate in the group purchase. The deal they offered far exceeded my expectations. I knew going into the group purchase, that there would be a very small chance of getting in on the group purchase because of the limited quantities. If you put some (minimal) effort into it, they did take care of you.

Thanks again Gabe/Jeff.

rao · Apr 14, 2009

Who is complaining? They wanted to use marketing BS about promises, and that is there choice. I put more than minimal effort into following their procedure for the group purchase which they contacted me about.

I am not complaining at all, I am very happy with the result

revlover · Apr 14, 2009

///Mflossin said:
Holy cow! It looks like it was packed like that?! If the box had been crushed there'd have been more collateral damage IMO. So you still didn't get everything you were supposed to get?

Curse the Dannmar shippers for creating this hole so parts would fall out!

:headscrat

C2C6Z06 · Apr 20, 2009

Dubs, I am sorry to hear about your problems and hope they are solved quickly.

I picked up my lift, friday 4/17 and put it together sunday. I did an inventory of all parts and everything was there! The instructions were good, not great, but very useable for a fairly mechanically oriented person as myself.

I did find that more than 7 qts of ATF were needed after the first bleeding, but that's minor.

I am happy as a clam and suspect I need to thank all of you first group for helping identify any parts/shipping problems. It appears Danmar/GE has listened!

wachuko · Apr 21, 2009

C2C6Z06 said:
...I did find that more than 7 qts of ATF were needed after the first bleeding, but that's minor..

Same here. I had to use 9 in total.

bazar01 · Apr 21, 2009

I got my maxjax today. I bought it after the group buy and still got a good deal. I have not opened the boxes yet but I hope everything is there to complete my installation this weekend.
One column seemed like it has a certain degree of misalignment on the hydraulic cylinder block assembly that slides up and down. After calling Gabe of Danmar, he explained that the plastic blocks slides inside the column could have been assembled incorrectly. Sure enough, one block was installed reversed compared to the other 3 which caused the misalignment. All I did was lay down the column on it's side then slide the whole assembly out through to top opening and corrected the plastic slide orientation. The hole in the plastic slide is off-centered so all four slides have to be oriented the same way.

Gasket · Apr 22, 2009

Picked up my maxjax today.
I need to take a full inventory, but it looks good so far minus a couple of the wheels.

Looks like one wheel vaporized while being shipped and another broke as soon as I put some weight on it. It is kind of odd that just the bolt was left, no remnants of the wheel at all. The second wheel must have been cracked while shipped, so when I put some weight on it, it split all of the way.

It was no easy getting this into the back of my truck. The unit is very top heavy. I thought it was going to tip the side multiple times when the shipper was forklifting it into the truck. With 2 pallets placed on each side and a lot of straps, I was able to make it home without any issues. I added some pictures I took with my cell phone before it got too dark.

Getting it out of the truck was not as bad as I had expected. I took off all of the boxes and lift arms first. Then I rested the posts and frame on its side and removed the bolts. With the help of a neighbor, I was able to get the posts out one at a time.

PCW · Apr 23, 2009

wachuko said:
Another great suggestions is to also pour some epoxy for concrete before dropping the anchor and/or to fill any space on top of the anchor... I should have thought about it before I did the others... a bit late now, but will do so for the ones in the second bay.

Wachuko,

How much epoxy did you put in each hole? Also, how did you fill the spaces on top of the anchor without it getting in the threads? Did you just keep the bolts in? Are the entire anchors covered with the epoxy?

Thanks,
PCW

bazar01 · Apr 23, 2009

I have a question about achieving the 100 ft-lb torque on the anchors. Is the anchor supposed to achieve this requirement even if the anchors top section does not hit the column bottom plate while tightening the 5/8 cap screw? The way I see it, the tightening torque can be easily achieved esp when the anchor's top hit the bottom plate wihile there is no assurance that the anchor is actually grabbing the concrete. The anchor just hit the bottom plate and naturally you get 100 ft-lb torque but the anchor wedge is not totally grabbing the concrete. For the anchor to be totally reliable, you should hit 100 ft-lb torque even when the anchor's top section is still below the concrete and not hitting the bottom steel plate. Any ideas regarding this?

///Mflossin · Apr 23, 2009

bazar01 said:
I have a question about achieving the 100 ft-lb torque on the anchors. Is the anchor supposed to achieve this requirement even if the anchors top section does not hit the column bottom plate while tightening the 5/8 cap screw? The way I see it, the tightening torque can be easily achieved esp when the anchor's top hit the bottom plate wihile there is no assurance that the anchor is actually grabbing the concrete. The anchor just hit the bottom plate and naturally you get 100 ft-lb torque but the anchor wedge is not totally grabbing the concrete. For the anchor to be totally reliable, you should hit 100 ft-lb torque even when the anchor's top section is still below the concrete and not hitting the bottom steel plate. Any ideas regarding this?

I am ready to drill the holes tomorrow and have a question along these lines. I will actually be mounting the posts on top of my RaceDeck flooring. The RaceDeck flooring is exactly 1/2" thick so I ordered 2.5" bolts from McMaster-Carr. They weren't cheap...cost me about $40. Anyhow....my question is because I will be mounting these posts on top of the RaceDeck floor, do or should I still follow the instructions to set the anchors 5/8" below the surface of the concrete? My impression is yes and that is because the anchor should pull up that high once the bolts are torqued? OR....will the anchors continue to pull up until they are stopped by the base plate? If this is the case...maybe I should merely be setting these about 1/4" below the concrete surface. Does anybody have any experience with mounting on top of RaceDeck flooring with the MaxJax?

bazar01 · Apr 23, 2009

I did the first column this afternoon. I set the first anchor 5/8 inch below the concrete surface. I used a 1/2 thick x 2" x 2" steel plate with a 1" hole in the middle to set the first anchor. The 1" hole will allow the anchor to keep moving up past the concrete surface just in case the anchor loses the grip and I cannot attain the 100 ft-lb holding power on the concrete. I was able to achieve the 100 ft-lb torque with the top of the anchor still about 1/8" below the concrete surface. This way I am assured the first anchor will hold the load.
I was able to set 4 out of 5 anchors still below the concrete surface at 100 ft-lbs. But the fifth anchor was sticking above the concrete surface by about 1/4" before I got the 100 ft-lb torque. What do i do now with the 5th anchor? I drilled the concrete all the way through though. Can I just grind the 1/4" sticking up or drive the anchor down to the dirt and put a new anchor and epoxy it to the concrete?
Thanks guys, I need some peace of mind.

bazar01 · Apr 23, 2009

///Mflossin said:
Anyhow....my question is because I will be mounting these posts on top of the RaceDeck floor, do or should I still follow the instructions to set the anchors 5/8" below the surface of the concrete? My impression is yes and that is because the anchor should pull up that high once the bolts are torqued? OR....will the anchors continue to pull up until they are stopped by the base plate? If this is the case...maybe I should merely be setting these about 1/4" below the concrete surface. Does anybody have any experience with mounting on top of RaceDeck flooring with the MaxJax?

I would drive the anchor down 5/8" below the concrete. You'll never know when the anchor wedge will grab the concrete. One out of my five anchors grabbed the concrete and achieved 100 ft-lbs when the top of the anchor was already 1/4" above the concrete. Since you are putting a racedeck 1/2" thick, that's another 1/2" above the concrete allowance for the anchor to stick up above the concrete. You'll never know when the anchor will grab to achieve the 100 ft-lb torque. It can be below or above the concrete surface.

weicm3 · Apr 24, 2009

I just got the delivery today. Haven't check all parts yet. But I found the base plates don't seem leveled. Is it normal? Column would tip a little bit. I could use the shims included but just want to know if you all experienced same thing.

bazar01 · Apr 24, 2009

///Mflossin said:
My impression is yes and that is because the anchor should pull up that high once the bolts are torqued? OR....will the anchors continue to pull up until they are stopped by the base plate? If this is the case...maybe I should merely be setting these about 1/4" below the concrete surface. Does anybody have any experience with mounting on top of RaceDeck flooring with the MaxJax?

You don't want the column base plate to stop the anchor while torqueing because you are not sure if the anchor is grabbing the concrete. That's why I used a 1/2" thick x 2" x 2" steel plate with a 1" hole in the middle to set the anchor. If the anchor top hits the column base plate, you will definitely achieve the 100 ft-lb torque but you'll never know if the anchor really grabbed the concrete.

C2C6Z06 · Apr 24, 2009

I just tried bolting my first column down. Concrete was just about 4" +/- 1/4....Tightened the bolts down hard with a 1/2 drive ratchet, so far so good. For yucks I grabbed the top of the colum and shoved it back and forth....well, it came loose....Guess the concrete will have to be replaced.....

revlover · Apr 24, 2009

C2C6Z06 said:
I just tried bolting my first column down. Concrete was just about 4" +/- 1/4....Tightened the bolts down hard with a 1/2 drive ratchet, so far so good. For yucks I grabbed the top of the colum and shoved it back and forth....well, it came loose....Guess the concrete will have to be replaced.....

Oh no! That *****!

Are you planning to do what Wachuko did with the concrete slabs?

weicm3 · Apr 24, 2009

C2C6Z06 said:
I just tried bolting my first column down. Concrete was just about 4" +/- 1/4....Tightened the bolts down hard with a 1/2 drive ratchet, so far so good. For yucks I grabbed the top of the colum and shoved it back and forth....well, it came loose....Guess the concrete will have to be replaced.....

the anchors came loose in concrete? It comes up or spins?

do the base plates sit flat on the concrete? mine didn't and had to use shims even though my floor is leveled.

revlover · Apr 24, 2009

Good thing you didn't test that with a car!

marlin mangels · Apr 24, 2009

I have 2 Volvo 940's, 1 Volvo 960, and 1 Volvo 240. I'd like to install the MaxJax so the cylinders are as close to the Center of Gravity as possible. Is this usually at the midpoint between the factory jack positions on each side? Thanks.

bazar01 · Apr 24, 2009

revlover said:
Good thing you didn't test that with a car!

The main reason why I set the anchors first without the column in place to make sure all 5 anchors get 100 ft-lbs tightening torque flush or below the concrete surface. I used a pipe bell reducer and a thick washer to set the anchor.
Well I had 1 out of 5 anchors sticking up about 1/8" above the surface. I just cut it off flush with concrete surface using a dremel.

I'll do the second column tomorrow and we'll see if the concrete quality is the same on the other end.

Here is a pic of my setting tool.

Anchor that was sticking out that I cut off.

///Mflossin · Apr 24, 2009

Well...today was a good day. I got everything installed and everything works BUT, the easy part (bleeding), turned out to take a long time and it's still not right. I have one post that appears to lower faster than the other but doesn't raise as fast as the other side. I bled for about 3 hours and no dice....I still can't get them even. I am wondering if I have a bad flow unit. I will continue to attempt to bleed maybe later tonight if I am up to it. I have to do some exterior staining tomorrow so I likely won't get much of a chance to mess with the lift.

C2C6Z06 · Apr 25, 2009

///Mflossin said:
Well...today was a good day. I got everything installed and everything works BUT, the easy part (bleeding), turned out to take a long time and it's still not right. I have one post that appears to lower faster than the other but doesn't raise as fast as the other side. I bled for about 3 hours and no dice....I still can't get them even. I am wondering if I have a bad flow unit. I will continue to attempt to bleed maybe later tonight if I am up to it. I have to do some exterior staining tomorrow so I likely won't get much of a chance to mess with the lift.

I read in another thread to switch the hoses to check the diverter valve...If the problem changes sides, it may be the diverter valve....

C2C6Z06 · Apr 25, 2009

Regarding my anchor problem...it appears my concrete is old, brittle, may not have the proper PSI,and not thick enough. I have been cutting the 4X4 sections and will pour new, thicker, higher PSI concrete tomorrow.

///Mflossin · Apr 25, 2009

C2C6Z06 said:
I read in another thread to switch the hoses to check the diverter valve...If the problem changes sides, it may be the diverter valve....

You know what....I didn't even think of that! Thanks and I will try that and post back with how I make out.

bazar01 · Apr 25, 2009

C2C6Z06 said:
Regarding my anchor problem...it appears my concrete is old, brittle, may not have the proper PSI,and not thick enough. I have been cutting the 4X4 sections and will pour new, thicker, higher PSI concrete tomorrow.

My second column anchors had problems too. Only two anchors held below the surface and the other 3 did not grab until the anchors are 3/4" above the concrete. I guess my garage concrete is not thick enough in the middle. I have to pour a 4 x 4 section in the middle of my garage. sighhhhh!

jrj3rd · Apr 25, 2009

Extremely satisfied so far. Took delivery late Thursday (liftgate) and have been ******* since then. Everything was extremely well wrapped and straped in place. Inventory shows everything accounted for (except teflon tape (no problem) and lift point guide (already explained above). Took time to assemble everything this morning and no issues (working alone). Now need to drill concrete and bolt down. That will have to wait till a later time due to family obligations today.

So far I have found Gabe and crew extremely easy to work with and would not hesitate to deal with them again.

Can't wait to do the first lift so I can get one of those Wachuko sh!t eating grins too!! :bounce:

John

G-force · Apr 25, 2009

I got a start on the install today. One thing I noticed was that the instructions say to use a 5/8" drill bit using the base as a template for holes b,c,d & e. Then remove the base and finish with a 7/8" bit, but on my base plates the holes look like the have been bored out to 3/4", so even using the base plate with a 5/8" bit will not guarantee perfect alignment. Are the holes on everyone's base plates bore to 3/4"? I can tell they have been enlarged because all the paint is gone on the inside. I'm worried that I might set an anchor that wont end up lining up properly.

Also my cart for the pump is totally twisted bent and will not even come close to sitting level. I will be talking to Gabe about a replacement on Monday.

///Mflossin · Apr 25, 2009

you do a pilot with the 5/8" bit. I'd go only about an inch or so. All that I did was center the 5/8" bit in the hole(s). Just make sure that you drill straight.

I switched the hoses today and couldn't believe that all of a sudden the lift went up evenly and down evenly! Then....I raised it again-uneven and subsequently lowered it-uneven (but now the other side is affected leading to the flow diverter). I am going to play with it some more tomorrow and continue, regardless of how tedious to allow some bleeding/weeping to occur. My guess at this point may be either a faulty diverter or an intermittently working one as all air appears to be out of the system. I will switch the hoses again as well. I will report back with my fiindings...

Axis11 · Apr 25, 2009

So I was missing the extra fittings for operating the one post for lifting motorcycles which isn't a big deal, i don't have a motorcycle. Was there also a lift guide we where supposed to get? Are they sending them out or do we have to call gabe and ask?

Your First MaxJax: What to Expect

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