Updated Chinese Cut50F Group Buy

Aquamoose · Aug 18, 2015

After reading AnEv942's post, I did open up the box of spare parts and did find the board. There were no cut traces on it at all. I took a look at the specs for the relay and it appears to be a SPST relay with a pair of contacts that's shared BUT the PDF specs shows that there should be only 4 contacts, not 5 as it's shown on the board. If yours is working fine, I'm assuming that there's no difference since the trace between the two contacts are already connected through the relay. If it isn't, then the marking on the relay is incorrect and I'd like to know what the relay says on top.

Further thinking,... I think they have been using both relays and may have ran out of the other type of relay. If your relay is marked GP-24VDC-C54 or GP-24VDC-1C54, it was necessary to cut the trace. If your relay is marked GP-24VDC-A54 or GP-24VDC-1A54, then the trace does not have to be cut.

http://www.sinetong.com.sg/product/downloadPdf/80/GP-24VDC-1A54-16A.pdf

China did tell me not to operate the torch in the air for too long. I'm assuming that it would cause excessive wear on those contact points, which would make sense. If it was having excessive wear, the contacts could be filed flat and readjusted to the original gap. I didn't measure the one I have but it appears to be proper. I'll get pictures up in the next post along with the switch modification I made on my torch through my phone.

By the way, THANK YOU for the extra funds some of you have sent, I appreciate it!!!

Aquamoose · Aug 18, 2015

As promised,...

Here are my pics of one of the spare boards.

And the modified torch I did.

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AnEv942 · Aug 18, 2015

Aquamoose said:
Further thinking,... I think they have been using both relays and may have ran out of the other type of relay. If your relay is marked GP-24VDC-C54 or GP-24VDC-1C54, it was necessary to cut the trace. If your relay is marked GP-24VDC-A54 or GP-24VDC-1A54, then the trace does not have to be cut.

Awesome!
Yes, mine the relay with cut trace is marked GP-24VDC-C54, it does have the 5th center pin. I had noted on the other side of board is almost identical relay GP-24VDC-A54. Though 5th hole and pre-solder nob on board present, that relay doesnt have 5th pin (or cut trace).

Looking at the pdf- and how machine is wired-the difference between A54 & C54 relay is C would never change function, open or closed-as both pins are on same trace. It would switch from closed to ..closed. Hence the 'modification'. I had written down the numbers but hadnt looked up-now seeing both switched pins on same trace its ah so clear. Thanks for making the effort to dig up board & relay.
So button'ed up she goes.

Lassen Forge · Aug 19, 2015

Just heard that my 230V baby will soon be on it's way... I feel like an expectant mom... Waiting for Dr. Ups to tell me "Congratulations, you are the proud mom of a bouncing blue baby cutter!"

BTW Sean re the extra funds - dude, it was worth it, and don't even think about it.

KyleQ · Aug 22, 2015

Got mine hooked up last night for the first time and went straight after some 3/8" plate and it cut it like butter - even cutting 1/8" off it did it like a champ. I've got a truck I'm scrapping and need some parts off of it - I'm going to see how it likes to cut automotive steel.

Chuzie · Sep 9, 2015

Did anyone get around to compiling a comprehensive "get well" manual for the cutter?

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e-rockin-it · Sep 11, 2015

Started working on one but then shop got too busy for its own good. Gong to jump back on it when things die down a bit. Are you having issues that we can help with?

gnpenning · Sep 11, 2015

gnpenning said:
while I haven't had a chance to get back to mine...

It will fire right up then cut out. When I release the trigger air still comes out of the gun for about 20 sec. When the air stops it will start back up then shut back off. I even tried to cut a 1/4 bolt and it takes about 4 tries to cut it. I was trying 18 ga sheet metal at first. I have tried different grounds places and grinding clean spots to ground to. I have used up 2 sets of consumables.

When I first got it I removed the cover and checked all the connections as recommended.

Any suggestions???

Yes e rock
I could use some help with this. Thanks

Lassen Forge · Sep 14, 2015

Happy Mid-September!

I still have not heard anything regarding my cutter - payment was sent a while ago, and nothing about a delivery, a shipment, nada. Just wondering what the hold-up was...

e-rockin-it · Sep 16, 2015

gnpenning said:
Yes e rock
I could use some help with this. Thanks

Hi gnpenning you'll probably have to open it up and measure a few things. Do you have a multimeter that measures diode drops and resistance. I hadn't gotten to that part of the diagnosing manual but I can throw something together to help you out. Sorry for being slow right now. Shop is really busy.

bobbycos · Sep 16, 2015

Life got in the way and mine is still unopened in the box

Would love a get well flyer for the cutter before I fire it up

gnpenning · Sep 16, 2015

e-rockin Thanks for the follow up. I have a Fluke 87.

I removed the cover and did a visual check and it's been sitting with it off.

I would appreciate the help. I do have company coming into town for a week. It will be later next week before I will be able to get back to it. If that helps you.

Thanks again.

e-rockin-it · Sep 23, 2015

gnpenning said:
e-rockin Thanks for the follow up. I have a Fluke 87.

I removed the cover and did a visual check and it's been sitting with it off.

I would appreciate the help. I do have company coming into town for a week. It will be later next week before I will be able to get back to it. If that helps you.

Thanks again.

Hi gnpenning . Sorry to keep you waiting, going to try to help as best I can. Havnt had any time lately. Got the manual for the bottom board written but your problem is probably on the middle or top board like mine was. First thing I would check is the diodes on the middle board. They are the ********* parts screwed to the aluminum heatsink. Each part is actually 2 diodes so put your meter in diode test mode and with red probe on the middle pin of each package touch the two outside leads. The meter should show no connectivity on either pin. If it shows anything other than open circuit then the part is broken. That's probably the problem on yours but let me know could be other things like the mosfets on the top board also but let me know if you need help testing. Mine died in a different way but after some work and upgraded parts mine is back at it and I feel a bit better after upgraded broken parts. I will put together a manual and suggestions but shop has to get less busy for a few days so I can sit down and write for a bit. Let me know your results. Test the individual parts on that board (6 if I remember right) but if you get a faulty one I would replace all at same time. That area is a design weakness in the machine.

gnpenning · Sep 23, 2015

Thanks E rockin.

I understand the busy part. Like I said I had company and everything including work got put on hold. I'm more than a little behind right now myself. Need to spend my spare time doing things that pay the bills. I will check out your suggestions and let you know what I find. Not sure when I'll have the time to get back to it. I didn't want you to put things aside on your end knowing that I couldn't get on it my end.

I even lost the water main to my barn this weekend so I have the joy of fixing it first as well. The only salvation to this is that every time I have to do a repair I add one more stop and waste so the whole system isn't down.

Thanks for the follow up.

sk farmer · Sep 23, 2015

i have had mine for some time but had not had the time to fully inspect it and fire it up. i had never used one before but i checked it over tonight, tightened all of the loose fasteners and tried it out. worked great and it will take some time to learn it but so far i am happy!

Badasssapper67 · Sep 26, 2015

Decided to put my cutter to the test. Cut up some old brake rotors with it. The problems came when, because of the rust it wasn't grounding to the table so I clamped it down really well. Also I had too much air flow and it was blowing out the flame. Turned the air regulator down and cranked it up and bamo! Of course at full throttle it's got a 60% duty cycle so I had to let it cool down once it cut out. Man!
What a great deal .....so far. I just hope it keeps working. My advice is to try it out on thinner gauge stuff even if you have to get some scraps from a welding shop. Crank it down and see how far down you can go with the power and listen to the air. If it sounds like the air is overpowering your cut, crank the air regulator more closed so the pressure goes down on the flame. Once you get that "feeling" of the cut and the air sounding in "balance" it stays with you.
This was an awesome experiment and I brag to everybody I know that's a car guy about Garage Journal.
AquaMoose you're the man!

Lassen Forge · Oct 7, 2015

Wellll.... I'm still waiting. No tracking number, no cutter no nada. :-( Any idea what happened?

AnEv942 · Oct 7, 2015

Um previous post #1318 said you heard was on the way?
Contacted Sean directly? [email protected]

Lassen Forge · Oct 9, 2015

IT'S HERE!!!!!!!! Showed up last night. Checked my UPS log...

Now I get to feel embarassed. I have a couple things on order and should be delivered... been watching one, couldn't figure out what the heck it was, from one "Barr Industries"... I even GOOGLED it trying to figure it out, what the he!! it could be... :lol_hitti

Anyway... I have to go out now, open my christmas present... and cackle! -grins-

Sean... you rock! :rocker:

Aquamoose · Oct 12, 2015

Lassen Forge said:
Sean... you rock!

Thank you

Meanwhile, I have three extras here if anyone's interested. (These are not the warranty spares). Each will get one set of consumables and one set of cups. Those three were bought with my own funds.

Let me know!

Sean

Aquamoose · Oct 14, 2015

One's sold and its shipping out tomorrow, two left!

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Aquamoose · Oct 15, 2015

The second is sold! One remaining...

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edboyles · Oct 16, 2015

Sean
PM sent.......
Thanks
Eric

Badasssapper67 · Oct 16, 2015

Is anyone else having an troubles with the tips backing out? I've found that when the machine starts spitting sideways blue arcs the tip and cup have worked loose.
I don't have the air cranked way up and the machine should be designed for that kind of pressure anyway, but yeah, it quits cutting regular and eventually just blows air. Every time its the parts have come loose.
Is anyone using any kind of goop to keep them tight?

Keel · Oct 16, 2015

how much is the unit?

VDubJoe · Oct 17, 2015

Badasssapper67 said:
Is anyone else having an troubles with the tips backing out? I've found that when the machine starts spitting sideways blue arcs the tip and cup have worked loose.
I don't have the air cranked way up and the machine should be designed for that kind of pressure anyway, but yeah, it quits cutting regular and eventually just blows air. Every time its the parts have come loose.
Is anyone using any kind of goop to keep them tight?

No issues here. I tighten them pretty snug.

Joe

Badasssapper67 · Oct 17, 2015

Update on my cutter experience;
I lost the guide/guard while trying to clean the cast iron off it on the bench grinder. It flung across the room to parts unknown. I tried to freehand it with bad, bad, bad results.
So, I made a new one out of some size 10 ground wire. I spaced it about 1/16 to 1/8 gap between the tip and the work.
It works awesome! It gets crusted in molten iron but it brushes right off easily. The fact that it is bendy concerned me at first but I have learned how to use that to my advantage. When trying to get into corners I can apply a little sideways pressure on the guard and it has a little give and springs right back. Couldn't do that with the chrome one.
Right now it is mickey mouse'd around the handle and was afraid it would get hot so I wrapped it in electrical tape and it's good. I am going to see if I can make something in view of selling them but if someone beats me to it, it's all good, as long as it is available to the guys here.
Side note; if you're new to plasma cutters like I am/was, the cutting tip is A LOT closer than the tip on your o/a torch, and the air blows the liquid metal right back on your hand. I have found that cutting from side to side is the preferred method. I don't like to wear gloves and have a very high tolerance for pain so if I can figure out a way to do it without injuring myself I will.
P.S. If you smell burning flesh and you're the only one in the room, stop and fix yourself.

keith5064 · Oct 22, 2015

Received my cutter awhile ago but just getting around to getting it out.. Opened up the cover and checked for loose screws... Noticed the tip of the torch looked burnt? Gonna install the 6-50 plug and try her out..pretty excited!

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keith5064 · Oct 23, 2015

Just tried out my cutter for the first time during my lunch break, just made some practice cuts on some old bedframe I had laying around, not the best cuts but I'll get some sheet metal and do some more when I get some time...thanks aquamoose!

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keith5064 · Oct 24, 2015

Just cut a circle in some 1/4" plate for a bracket for part of the chimney on my woodstove....not too bad of a cut. It did cut out quite a bit in spots though? Maybe not good enough ground.?.also melted half of the standoff bracket on the torch...View attachment 489431

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jmlcolorado · Oct 24, 2015

keith5064 said:
Just cut a circle in some 1/4" plate for a bracket for part of the chimney on my woodstove....not too bad of a cut. It did cut out quite a bit in spots though? Maybe not good enough ground.?.also melted half of the standoff bracket on the torch...View attachment 489431

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I've melted a handful of standoff a too.
You can break that slag off the bottom of the cut while it's hot with a chipping hammer. I found if it cools, makes it MUCH harder to break off.

I've also found the rough cuts are mostly from the friction of the standoff running across material. If you are able to study it better, the cut ends up cleaner.

So far I'm quite happy with mine

jmlcolorado · Oct 24, 2015

keith5064 said:
Just cut a circle in some 1/4" plate for a bracket for part of the chimney on my woodstove....not too bad of a cut. It did cut out quite a bit in spots though? Maybe not good enough ground.?.also melted half of the standoff bracket on the torch...View attachment 489431

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Oh! Did you use a guide for the circle?
The top of the CIT looks really nice! I want to know how your managed that.

keith5064 · Oct 24, 2015

I normally would not be cutting this thick of material but I couldn't find any thinner metal around town today...but I am quite pleased with the unit as well...

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jmlcolorado · Oct 24, 2015

I cut a a good amount of 3/8" plate for motor mounts for my diesel project. Cut rather well under such thick material.

keith5064 · Oct 24, 2015

No no guide, just a green sharpie line...lol

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jmlcolorado · Oct 24, 2015

keith5064 said:
No no guide, just a green sharpie line...lol

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You sir, have a remarkable steady hand!

Since you said it, I struggled with sharpie, but was using black. I found soapstone works well and doesn't burn off 1/2 before the torch gets to it.
I might have to try green sharpie.

danfromsyr · Oct 26, 2015

silver sharpies for the win. (IMHO)

and I finally got to hookingmine up and fired up thispast wekend.
cut some 3/8 plate just fine. seems like it LIKES a good ground contact so make sure on that.. also a chromed steel guide is a slag attractant.. will look into some other material/method to guide.. for our cuts we went freehand once the guide got slagged up..

but for <$300 I've little complaints yet..
it'll cost that much to have my old Hypertherm checked out.

amac70 · Oct 27, 2015

Finally fired mine up today, worked great after a few minor tweaks to air and amps.

blind · Oct 28, 2015

Does any others make a loud buzz after it powers down? It's only for a second but hadn't seen anyone mention this.

Chuzie · Oct 28, 2015

Yep. Both units i have seen do this.

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Updated Chinese Cut50F Group Buy

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