Then I'll post as I go. Here are some pictures of wiring for the 1/3 HP 397. 19391. Pulling the connectors off the terminal post seemed easy for some and stubborn for others. On the stubborn ones I sprayed some contact cleaner on them, let it sit for a min and then they came right off.
Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)
- Thread starter torqueman2002
- Start date
Then I'll post as I go. Here are some pictures of wiring for the 1/3 HP 397. 19391. Pulling the connectors off the terminal post seemed easy for some and stubborn for others. On the stubborn ones I sprayed some contact cleaner on them, let it sit for a min and then they came right off.
OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
6464 - You're welcome, it's no problem. I enjoy sharing the little bit of information/experience I have on these simple, but great machines.
I look forward to reading/seeing your posts on your Block restore.
You are welcome to post some pictures in this thread, but to keep the thread easy to navigate and find resources and answers to common questions, I encourage you to start a dedicated thread. Include 'Block Grinder' in the title and you will surely get members checking it out.
Additionally, please post a link to it here, and the following threads.
Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - Restorations
Block grinder restorations. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=325578
let's see your craftsman block grinders
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794
OK
I believe this thread may be appropriate for you at this point in your Block grinder experience.
'The Pledge' --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478
@torqueman, I be sure to start a thread. If I over posted to this one I am sorry. I get excited when learning new things and I ask a ton of questions.. I'll start a thread, link it to the ones you gave me and post a couple on here.. Thanks again for wealth of information and answering my questions. Can't wait to work more on it this weekend
OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I am assuming this bearing should be all the way down to that shoulder where the screwdriver is? The sides came off very easily. Just a few taps and they came off the bearings. Haven't moved the bears. They are still good. Just going to 2000 grit sand the slight rust
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
NDfan, I have been keeping an eye out for one of those, for when I get my second block up and running. Let me know how you like using it.
I sure will buddy. It'll be while since my grinder is in pieces right now.
OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I think, from the picture, the bearing is properly seated.
The grove that the screwdriver is pointing to is not the home position of the bearing. I'm not sure what the purpose of the grove is, there are 2 groves on the LH side of the arbor, pictured in Craftsman 1/3-HP Round-top Block Grinder m-397.19580, restore.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5743463#post5743463
OK cool. Thanks for information. I had looked over that thread a few times to just check and see if mine was seated right and to just gain knowledge. But didn't know if that model grinder would be the same as mine. Thanks again.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
So let me ask you TM, the Blocks marked "Industrial" as well as the ones marked "Commercial", are they actually built better inside?
1969
Well-known member
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
firehawk -
Industrial and Commercial versions of the Block grinders.
"General speaking, the commercial grinders are rated for industrial use and dual voltage. The non-commercial grinders are usually single voltage 6" and some 7" for homeowner use." per Brian Kachadurian on OWWM.
More information in post #1, above.
I honestly don't know what the internal differences are, but that is a good idea for a new thread topic - a side-by-side tear down and comparison between 1/2-HP Blocks.
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OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
1969 - If you haven't already found your way over, there's also a lot of Block information to enjoy in: 'let's see your craftsman block grinders' ---> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Wow you ****! That looks nice. Does it mount to the grinder or to the table? How much was it?
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Thanks, well I am in the game now, picked up two blocks today, will post pics when they arrive. One will be a resto for sure, the other maybe not
OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
YW!Thanks, well I am in the game now, picked up two blocks today, will post pics when they arrive. One will be a resto for sure, the other maybe not
It's not too late for you. You still have a chance to save yourself and garage space.
What am I talking about?, you say.
I think this link is appropriate for you, also.
'The Pledge' --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478
bubinga
Well-known member
I don''t know either, but Brian Kachadurian knows a lot about craftsman.
It mounts right to the grinder. I paid probably to much for it..Lol.. the guy was trying to get $75 for it but got him down to $50 to include shipping. But for never been used item I am OK with the price and the original packaging being I great shape!.
So here's a sneak peek at my restoration of my block. Will be starting my own thread and journey as to not take away from torquemans amazing thread.
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OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
That's a smokin' deal on a NIB CM tool sharpener.
That tool rest sure is purdy!
See and here I thought I over paid for it. Good to know.
HAHAH..The tool rest did clean up well. I polished every nut, bolt, washer and screw today. Reshaped the thru bolt heads. Can't find replacement ones. These are 5 1/4" long. Shortest ones I've found d are 8".
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Yeah, you don't see the CMan sharpeners like that *too* often. The drill bit sharpeners are a lot more common and under various brands.
I disassembled my newly acquired 397-19460 1/2 hp block for a complete clean up which turned out great. While I was in there I replaced the bearings, cheap and easy. I was also able to polish the plastic eye shields to clear again except for a spot where some sort of solvent spill attacked the plastic. Once I got it back together I dressed the wheels which are Craftsman, probably original. All in all I am happy with the project.
Now after about 10 start/stop cycles it seems that the capacitor has failed. It hums and turns at a very slow speed. Easy to replace but could it also be a failed relay?
Now after about 10 start/stop cycles it seems that the capacitor has failed. It hums and turns at a very slow speed. Easy to replace but could it also be a failed relay?
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Possible... I would double-check all your wiring, make sure nothing is crossed or came loose. IIRC some of those connectors are just spot welded with extra tabs so one might have broken.
You can test the capacitor with a meter (maybe?)... I *think* I read somewhere how to test the relay. I don't know if they make the relay anymore so if the wiring is good swapping out the cap would probably be the easiest first route.
OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Here's a thread on testing a capacitor at OWWM.
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=169672
For checking a CM Block relay, see the links on page 5 above - Relays, Start-Up Current.
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=169672
For checking a CM Block relay, see the links on page 5 above - Relays, Start-Up Current.
I worked on it today, found that the capacitor had power so I removed the relay and cleaned the contacts. The old girl runs again!
I still have a vibration from the Craftsman wheels. They both have about 1/16"+ wobble. I stopped at Lowes today for something else but spun the wheels on a DeWalt (or was it Delta?) China built grinder and those wheels also had about 1/16"+ wobble.
I still have a vibration from the Craftsman wheels. They both have about 1/16"+ wobble. I stopped at Lowes today for something else but spun the wheels on a DeWalt (or was it Delta?) China built grinder and those wheels also had about 1/16"+ wobble.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Yes, the wheels will have side-to-side wobble just from the various low tolerances of each component. Here's some links with good info on how to shim & align your wheels to reduce the wobble.
http://www.geigerssolutions.com/Tuning-Up-a-Bench-Grinder.html
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/Achieving-Balance-Grinding-Wheel.pdf
http://www.ptreeusa.com/PDF/grinding_wheel_instructions.pdf
A note from my personal experience. First, when loosening & tightening the nut, ALWAYS have the wheel in the same orientation. I like to have the text across the top, or at the very least make a mark to denote UP. Next I usually will try turning the outer flange 1/4 of a turn and re-tighten (just finger tight) and give the wheel a spin. I try all 4 orientations to figure out which has the least wobble.
You will notice the arbors have a little play on the shaft, that's why I always keep the wheel the same orientation when tightening, trying to eliminate as many variables as possible. Try to always let the arbor sit the same way when you tighten, if it's noticeably out of center, try to center it by hand when finger-tightening.
From there I will spin the wheel (by hand) and just hold a pencil close till it start to rub. If it's a light color wheel sometimes I will just mark on the outer edge of the stone, if the blotter is big enough with free space I will mark on the blotter. This lets you know the high point (which would be half-way / the center of the line you made).
Then I use a couple stickers (or a piece of tape as some articles suggest) and shim both the inner & outer flange. The inner flange will be 180 degrees (obviously), what I do is hold everything tight and rotate the wheel so shimming the outer flange would be from facing the rear, then I can shim the inside with a pair of needle-nose pliers since it's facing towards the front. Be careful not to rotate the arbors or wheels independent of everything else or you will just be chasing your tail aligning it all over again.
Sandwich the arbors & wheel together, rotate back to your UP mark, and tighten and give it a spin and see how much wobble was reduced. Sometimes you might have to add additional shims, or even adjust their location. But with some patience & luck you can get it dialed in pretty darn good.
Also don't over-tighten the nut! The threads are different directions so as it is under power they will keep snug. Cranking down on the nut will just warp the arbor, over-compress / smash the blotter, or worst case crack the wheel.
http://www.geigerssolutions.com/Tuning-Up-a-Bench-Grinder.html
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/Achieving-Balance-Grinding-Wheel.pdf
http://www.ptreeusa.com/PDF/grinding_wheel_instructions.pdf
A note from my personal experience. First, when loosening & tightening the nut, ALWAYS have the wheel in the same orientation. I like to have the text across the top, or at the very least make a mark to denote UP. Next I usually will try turning the outer flange 1/4 of a turn and re-tighten (just finger tight) and give the wheel a spin. I try all 4 orientations to figure out which has the least wobble.
You will notice the arbors have a little play on the shaft, that's why I always keep the wheel the same orientation when tightening, trying to eliminate as many variables as possible. Try to always let the arbor sit the same way when you tighten, if it's noticeably out of center, try to center it by hand when finger-tightening.
From there I will spin the wheel (by hand) and just hold a pencil close till it start to rub. If it's a light color wheel sometimes I will just mark on the outer edge of the stone, if the blotter is big enough with free space I will mark on the blotter. This lets you know the high point (which would be half-way / the center of the line you made).
Then I use a couple stickers (or a piece of tape as some articles suggest) and shim both the inner & outer flange. The inner flange will be 180 degrees (obviously), what I do is hold everything tight and rotate the wheel so shimming the outer flange would be from facing the rear, then I can shim the inside with a pair of needle-nose pliers since it's facing towards the front. Be careful not to rotate the arbors or wheels independent of everything else or you will just be chasing your tail aligning it all over again.
Sandwich the arbors & wheel together, rotate back to your UP mark, and tighten and give it a spin and see how much wobble was reduced. Sometimes you might have to add additional shims, or even adjust their location. But with some patience & luck you can get it dialed in pretty darn good.
Also don't over-tighten the nut! The threads are different directions so as it is under power they will keep snug. Cranking down on the nut will just warp the arbor, over-compress / smash the blotter, or worst case crack the wheel.
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OP
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Good info. Jason.
I linked to your post on page 2, above.
I linked to your post on page 2, above.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
FigureItOut
Well-known member
Fellas, I've been looking for a grinder for a year or so, getting by on a little yellow import deal that bogs down easily. I came across this today and I'm pretty sure I need to go get it, it's the only block grinder I've seen come up locally. I put in an email to the seller and just wanted to get some opinions on this grinder. Thanks.
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cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Try to get the grinder and stand with it if you can, IMHO.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
If you don't buy it, I will... LOL... That just went up on CL a couple hours ago...
I think you could talk him down to $30 or $40 with that stand...
1/3HP I think just uses 6" wheels... As long as the bearings are good, it looks complete... I have a 1/2HP that is similar and they are great.
I think you could talk him down to $30 or $40 with that stand...
1/3HP I think just uses 6" wheels... As long as the bearings are good, it looks complete... I have a 1/2HP that is similar and they are great.
Does that stand have a door and internal storage? If so, that would be a great stand for many applications.
I just got that exact same model but mine came with the water tray.Fellas, I've been looking for a grinder for a year or so, getting by on a little yellow import deal that bogs down easily. I came across this today and I'm pretty sure I need to go get it, it's the only block grinder I've seen come up locally. I put in an email to the seller and just wanted to get some opinions on this grinder. Thanks.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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FigureItOut
Well-known member
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Wow, shined up like a new penny. Much better than what the CL pictures looked like. Congrats! You ****!
Funny how if people took like 5 minutes to clean their stuff up before selling on CL they could get so much more money for it...
Funny how if people took like 5 minutes to clean their stuff up before selling on CL they could get so much more money for it...
bubinga
Well-known member
Looks real good, what did you clean it with?
FigureItOut
Well-known member
Just a little nylon brush dipped in evaporust. I don't think the evaporust did anything other than wet it down, but it may have helped.
FigureItOut
Well-known member
So true, but I guess that gives guys like us the best opportunities, since we're willing to go look, then put in the effort.