Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'm guessing the extra height was to allow for clamping the top of the post to keep it from tipping, for some specialized application (think long/heavy pieces clamped to the table that might upset a DP without a top anchor)
Any signs it ever saw a clamp up top?
Any signs it ever saw a clamp up top?
Not that I can tell, but the entire thing has the surface corrosion and staining you'd expect after 50 years. It does not have the same turned texture as my other post, or the internal chamfer, so I am wondering if it is just a long tube someone adapted to be the column.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Those columns are just a length of Std tubing, so yeah, probably so.
Re: Table Lift, 10" Woodworker's Vise, DP #15 Is Complete!
I must say FrankLee... DP #15 is looking mighty, mighty fine.
9/12/2015:
Except for the chuck, DP #15 is complete and runs great. This one's a keeper to replace #1. The head frame and table have original paint. The lift and base were repainted Rustoleum Dark Machine gray.
I must say FrankLee... DP #15 is looking mighty, mighty fine.
Except for the chuck, dp#15 is complete and runs great. This one's a keeper to replace dp#1. The head frame and table have original paint. The lift and base were repainted Rustoleum Dark Machine gray.
9/13/2015:
The chuck is installed on dp#15 (background). Run-out measures .003... good enough for me!
9/16/2015:
I sold dp#1 this evening as a bench model.
9/13/2015:
The chuck is installed on dp#15 (background). Run-out measures .003... good enough for me!
9/16/2015:
I sold dp#1 this evening as a bench model.
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I have the same vise in red, been waiting to build a wood working table worthy of the vise, then I plan to refinish it.
9/22/2015:
The smaller belt/disk sander is mounted on it's new stand next to the grinder.
I believe I've seen other pictures of that top style, but don't recall ever having one. Thanks for posting that.
9/21/2015:
This evening, I passed on buying dp#17, an early 100 with no optional features. The quill feed was very stiff, it had been repainted, and the motor pulley was bent and broken. On the plus side, it had a flawless table.
Here's the craigslist ad in it's entirety... no pictures, misspelling, very vague, and inaccurate.
Texted pictures:
He would have taken $80, but I'm not ready for another project right now.
The smaller belt/disk sander is mounted on it's new stand next to the grinder.
FrankLee,
Ever noticed this subtle difference in fixed-rod motor mount styles?
I believe I've seen other pictures of that top style, but don't recall ever having one. Thanks for posting that.
9/21/2015:
This evening, I passed on buying dp#17, an early 100 with no optional features. The quill feed was very stiff, it had been repainted, and the motor pulley was bent and broken. On the plus side, it had a flawless table.
Here's the craigslist ad in it's entirety... no pictures, misspelling, very vague, and inaccurate.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/5231804145.html
Texted pictures:
He would have taken $80, but I'm not ready for another project right now.
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FrankLee,
In an earlier post you share some ideas about how to remove stuck pulleys from the 1/2" motor shafts with flats. What's your preferred method for removing keyed pulleys on 5/8" shafts?
I've got everything soaking with Kroil til I hear back
In an earlier post you share some ideas about how to remove stuck pulleys from the 1/2" motor shafts with flats. What's your preferred method for removing keyed pulleys on 5/8" shafts?
I've got everything soaking with Kroil til I hear back
FrankLee,
In an earlier post you share some ideas about how to remove stuck pulleys from the 1/2" motor shafts with flats. What's your preferred method for removing keyed pulleys on 5/8" shafts?
I've got everything soaking with Kroil til I hear back
A penetrant is always a good start, but a puller is usually required. I have a picture of a puller set-up in my entry dated 10/28/2014 in post #81. It often takes some ingenuity to rig something up. A bearing splitter/puller would come in very handy for this application.
Something to try first... if there's room on the motor shaft and keyway, try to tap the pulley further onto the shaft just to break it free. Use caution though. Do not tap so far that the key gets jammed on the keyway curve. Also, that pot-metal is very unforgiving, use a socket or something similar that will slip over the shaft to strike the center of the pulley.
I like to apply a very thin coat of anti-seize to the motor shaft, and blue thread-locker on the set-screw when re-installing a pulley.
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Thanks. Got the key out by drilling and tapping an 8-32 hole and yanking with a claw hammer.
Still won't budge, so I guess I will try the puller. I like your use of angle iron, I think I will try it that way.
If it's a double shaft motor, and because you have the key removed, you can try that two pulley technique.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
JZiggy; a year and a half ago, another member was trying to get a pulley off without damage. This page I've linked to has where she got it off, and prior pages shows how she made a pulley support piece to keep from breaking the pulley:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3841296#post3841296
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3841296#post3841296
Now THAT is a very good idea.
Re: Custom Feed Handles
Just a quick question, in removing the handles from the screw driver, did you heat the shaft first, or were you able to just pry off the handles, no heat - without damaging?
Next, this drill press has a chipped feed handle, so I experimented with a stubby screwdriver handle as a replacement. Two more to go.
Just a quick question, in removing the handles from the screw driver, did you heat the shaft first, or were you able to just pry off the handles, no heat - without damaging?
Hey FrankLee, I'm wondering if you've ever run across a spindle like this. There is an intermediate sleeve. I'm wondering if the PO had a terrible time changing bearings and resorted to making this sleeve to get the drill press back in operation.
Hey FrankLee, I'm wondering if you've ever run across a spindle like this. There is an intermediate sleeve. I'm wondering if the PO had a terrible time changing bearings and resorted to making this sleeve to get the drill press back in operation.
Wow! That definitely looks like a custom repair to me. Possibly the original bearing spun on the shaft and wore it down. I have a picture of that in post 116 or 118.
The internal splines also look very worn.
You are finding some very unique machines!
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RHJO51
Well-known member
Hello all, great thread! I just picked up a nice Craftsman 150 off CL. Seems all original and great shape just really dirty. Needs a disasemble and cleaning. Has the optional Vari-Slo speed control but missing the "clamping pad". Are there any tricks on removing the Vari-Slo? I want to go through it. Thoughts on this being the original motor purchased with the DP? Thanks - Jim
Attachments
Basic Drill Press Disassembly for Transport
Drill Press Disassembly for Transport
Getting your new drill press home from the seller's location may seem like a daunting task... especially if you have no help. The last thing you want to do is break something by taking an unnecessary risk.
My preference is to take it apart into five manageable pieces; motor, head frame, table, column, base. It's usually an easy one-person job and works well for a bench-top model or a floor standing model.
12/20/2015
Nice score on the drill press!
You can find a Vari-Slo clamping pad on ebay.
Yes, it looks like the original sleeve-bearing motor. That should still serve you well.
Drill Press Disassembly for Transport
Getting your new drill press home from the seller's location may seem like a daunting task... especially if you have no help. The last thing you want to do is break something by taking an unnecessary risk.
My preference is to take it apart into five manageable pieces; motor, head frame, table, column, base. It's usually an easy one-person job and works well for a bench-top model or a floor standing model.
12/20/2015
Nice score on the drill press!
You can find a Vari-Slo clamping pad on ebay.
Yes, it looks like the original sleeve-bearing motor. That should still serve you well.
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RHJO51 said:
Hello all, great thread! I just picked up a nice Craftsman 150 off CL. Seems all original and great shape just really dirty. Needs a disasemble and cleaning. Has the optional Vari-Slo speed control but missing the "clamping pad". Are there any tricks on removing the Vari-Slo? I want to go through it. Thoughts on this being the original motor purchased with the DP? Thanks - Jim
Nice score on the drill press!
You can find a Vari-Slo clamping pad on ebay.
Yes, it looks like the original sleeve-bearing motor. That should still serve you well.
Hello all, great thread! I just picked up a nice Craftsman 150 off CL. Seems all original and great shape just really dirty. Needs a disasemble and cleaning. Has the optional Vari-Slo speed control but missing the "clamping pad". Are there any tricks on removing the Vari-Slo? I want to go through it. Thoughts on this being the original motor purchased with the DP? Thanks - Jim
Nice score on the drill press!
You can find a Vari-Slo clamping pad on ebay.
Yes, it looks like the original sleeve-bearing motor. That should still serve you well.
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RHJO51
Well-known member
Thanks Frank! Very helpful. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions. Thanks again. - Jim
RHJO51
Well-known member
Thanks for the help, I was able to get the vari-slo removed, no issues.
Can you tell me how to safely remove the head band? This one is held on with some kind of pin. I don't want to damage it, it's in very nice shape. Thanks - Jim
Can you tell me how to safely remove the head band? This one is held on with some kind of pin. I don't want to damage it, it's in very nice shape. Thanks - Jim
Panel Screws
7/31/2016
Removing the Quill Assembly on a Late Model 150
It does matter some. Late in the King-Seeley era, they changed the design of the feed return spring from an external adjustment to an integrated adjustment.
That is a late model 150 made by Emerson Electric. I believe all the Emerson 150s had the internal tension spring attachment, ie. no external knob. The procedures to remove the quill assembly are quite different between the early 100's/150's and the late 150's.
7/31/2016
Removing the Quill Assembly on a Late Model 150
It does matter some. Late in the King-Seeley era, they changed the design of the feed return spring from an external adjustment to an integrated adjustment.
That is a late model 150 made by Emerson Electric. I believe all the Emerson 150s had the internal tension spring attachment, ie. no external knob. The procedures to remove the quill assembly are quite different between the early 100's/150's and the late 150's.
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RHJO51
Well-known member
Re: Panel Screws
Thanks Frank!
Thanks Frank!
RHJO51
Well-known member
dadsEH
Well-known member
Weld it up and get a new hole drilled.
jakemac
Well-known member
Adding to that -
find a copper pipe or rod with an OD that is the right size for for the hole you need and stick it in the hole before welding. Knock the copper out when you're done welding and Voila ! Fixed.
Is that pot-metal? Can that be welded?
BTW, here is the patent with drawings for the Vari-Slo:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pdfs/US2666332.pdf
6/8/2016
That top bar, the pulley link, can come off first. You have to be very careful to remove it from both pulley shafts simultaneously... a fraction of an inch from the left shaft and then a fraction of an inch from the right shaft. You may need some kind of puller... a battery post puller perhaps. After that, it's pretty easy to disassemble the rest.
Optionally, you can loosen the set-screws from the lower bracket holding the shafts and using a punch, knock out the shafts together as above.
If you plan on taking the unit completely apart, note that the pivot groove pins are very slightly tapered. You will see marks on one end of each pin. Knock out the pins from the unmarked end and note which side they are to be re-installed. Also note the location of the washers. IIRC there are three.
There may also be a couple star/press-on fasteners that secure the control arm to the head casting and your bent control link. These can be removed rather easily with a small pick and can be reused.
Vari-Slo owner's manuals are available online. :
One more thing... because you will be taking this apart, I suggest that you install new belts. A couple years ago, I auctioned a VS where I had installed new v-belts. I ordered standard v-belts from www.vbelts4less.com. The part numbers were A15, A18, and A19, but I thought they were rather stiff. Some may suggest linked belts, but I prefer cogged belts on my drill presses. vbelts4less does not have cogged belts in those smaller sizes. l DID recently find those cogged belts at www.vbeltsupply.com . The part numbers are AX15, AX18, and AX19, AND they are very inexpensive. Shipping will likely be more than the belts.
BTW, here is the patent with drawings for the Vari-Slo:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pdfs/US2666332.pdf
6/8/2016
That top bar, the pulley link, can come off first. You have to be very careful to remove it from both pulley shafts simultaneously... a fraction of an inch from the left shaft and then a fraction of an inch from the right shaft. You may need some kind of puller... a battery post puller perhaps. After that, it's pretty easy to disassemble the rest.
Optionally, you can loosen the set-screws from the lower bracket holding the shafts and using a punch, knock out the shafts together as above.
If you plan on taking the unit completely apart, note that the pivot groove pins are very slightly tapered. You will see marks on one end of each pin. Knock out the pins from the unmarked end and note which side they are to be re-installed. Also note the location of the washers. IIRC there are three.
There may also be a couple star/press-on fasteners that secure the control arm to the head casting and your bent control link. These can be removed rather easily with a small pick and can be reused.
Vari-Slo owner's manuals are available online. :
One more thing... because you will be taking this apart, I suggest that you install new belts. A couple years ago, I auctioned a VS where I had installed new v-belts. I ordered standard v-belts from www.vbelts4less.com. The part numbers were A15, A18, and A19, but I thought they were rather stiff. Some may suggest linked belts, but I prefer cogged belts on my drill presses. vbelts4less does not have cogged belts in those smaller sizes. l DID recently find those cogged belts at www.vbeltsupply.com . The part numbers are AX15, AX18, and AX19, AND they are very inexpensive. Shipping will likely be more than the belts.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nope! (I've never seen pot metal repair welded at least...)
That might be able to be sleeved if you can drill it for the sleeve with a mill (slowly) so it doesn't **** the bit to the worn area.
That might be able to be sleeved if you can drill it for the sleeve with a mill (slowly) so it doesn't **** the bit to the worn area.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Here is a thought; fill the hole with JB Weld, let cure and then drill to the original location that should be better than thinning it with a sleeve. if you decide to sleeve still fill with JB so you have something to drill against...
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RHJO51
Well-known member
Thanks Guys. I'm going to make a good tracing and measurements of the arm in case I need to fabricate a new one. But I'm Wondering if that hole is supposed to be off center like that. Does anyone have a vari-slo they can take a look at for me. I think I might try the JB weld and red rill and worst case, make a new arm. The vari-slow seemed to work fine as is, but I want to fix it. Is JB weld a good choice for this pot metal or is there something better? Thanks for your help.
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zeet
Well-known member
When I got my V-S the control arm had been broken completely off. It was apparent it had happened before because it had been welded previously. (Interesting note; it was not the weld that broke the second time) So I milled both parts to accept a "spine" of new material and welded it up... No problem, even with my limited TIG skills.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Zeet, so those are cast aluminum?
zeet
Well-known member
Yup.