let's see your craftsman block grinders

torqueman2002 · Oct 7, 2015

Hi, see my replies in Blue.

jransom said:
Hey guys, does anyone know where I could find (or happen to have one for sale) one of the little black plastic lamp shades and screws to attach it to this guy? Thanks!!
The Black Cover Part #: 534497198 is still available, from Sears for $4.94:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part/search.html?q=534497198
AND
from eReplacementsparts -- Black Cover Part Number: 534497198 for $5.49:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/black-cover-p-973653.html

Also, what would be the best course of action in regards to shining up these plastic shields and getting them as clear as possible?
I start by a gentle cleaning with Simple Green/Windex or the like. I use a small soft paint brush to get into the nooks and crannies.

Then I'll use an auto wax/cleaner.

I've not had to use anything more aggressive, but I have read others use: tooth paste, white rubbing compound, ....

Rileysan said:
I saw this thread and am blown away at how many posts there are on this grinder. It's so big, however, that I am having trouble learning what is so great about the Craftsman Block grinder. Would someone be so kind as to point me to a post or thread with details about it and why I should be looking for one?
Brian

Hi Brian. Yes it's a bit overwhelming, even for some of us that have been posting here from the start.

"People always want to know what makes these things {CM Block grinders} so special; here's the reason. Look at those field windings. That is some VERY thick copper wire. When compared to a modern Chinese winding, these look GIGANTIC. The imports use very thin field wire. This is what makes these "block motors" so darn powerful and long lasting." Source - http://tinyurl.com/0-5-HP-CM-Block-Motor-FINISHED

I have a thread that might help condense the information for you. Check the 1st link in my signature line.

bagged89s10 · Oct 7, 2015

jransom said:
To me it's that they are made in America, run forever seemingly, bearings are easily replaced and they can be had on CL & EBay for not a lot of money. They are easy to disassemble and clean up as well. I have three different ones and they all run excellent. All of them are 30+ years old and will eventually go to my boys. There is also something to be said for their design aesthetic, which I really love, particularly the "Blocks"!

+1.

vertguy · Oct 7, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
+1.

++2

Made in the USA, look cool and work great.

jakemac · Oct 7, 2015

jransom said:
Hey guys, does anyone know where I could find (or happen to have one for sale) one of the little black plastic lamp shades and screws to attach it to this guy? Thanks!!

Also, what would be the best course of action in regards to shining up these plastic shields and getting them as clear as possible?

For the parts, see Torqueman's post above.

To clean the plastic eyeshields - after cleaning/degreasing them with something like SimpleGreen, you can polish them with toothpaste. It's a mild abrasive. Rub it in with your fingers or a soft cloth, rinse, repeat until done. (works on sunglasses as well)

torqueman2002 · Oct 7, 2015

zkling said:
Don't go out of your way to find one, they are not THAT great. BTDT, sorry guys. I had to see for myself, and that is just my OPINION. The 1/2hp + with dust ducts are decent, but again I don't think they are worth the hype.

They really are not in the same league with Baldor, Delta Triple-Duty, Milwaukee/Wissota. There are probably more examples, these are just the ones I am familiar with.

I know, that maybe bordering on heresy on this thread. But, that is not to say the Blocks are any less great.

They have a following because of what has already been pointed out.

I like them, because they are well suited to my uses in a home shop. And there are plenty in SE Michigan.

Hey, they're easy and fun to rescue from the scrap pile.

jransom · Oct 7, 2015

Cool, thanks! I didn't know that about tooth paste. I'll give it a shot tonight. Any particular kind?

zkling · Oct 7, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
They really are not in the same league with Baldor, Delta Triple-Duty, Milwaukee/Wissota. There re probably more, these are just the ones I am familiar with.

I know, that maybe bordering on heresy on this thread. But, that is not to say the Blocks are any less great.

They have a following because of what has already been pointed out.

I like them, because they are well suited to my uses in a home shop. And there are plenty in SE Michigan.

Hey, they're easy and fun to rescue from the scrap pile.

Agreed; and I'm not saying they are bad, but some people and no I am not including you, act like they are the end all be all to bench grinders. I was so intrigued I had to try a few for myself. Kinda like the workmakes, some people act like they are the next best thing to sliced bread, I beg to differ. While they get the job done and have a few a few slick features, such as glass eye shields and ducts, overall they are just not what some people make them out to be.

What really set me over the wall was when I got a hold of one of the stands. Way to short and if on a slightly uneven surface become a huge tip over hazard. Yet again some go crazy for them. Again, in my opinion.

BTW, would a shot of a 1/2hp red baldor help you with your red 3/4 cap issue?

jakemac · Oct 7, 2015

jransom said:
Cool, thanks! I didn't know that about tooth paste. I'll give it a shot tonight. Any particular kind?

The old style white toothpaste is best, don't bother with the gel types.

Tsquare · Oct 7, 2015

Rileysan said:
I saw this thread and am blown away at how many posts there are on this grinder. It's so big, however, that I am having trouble learning what is so great about the Craftsman Block grinder. Would someone be so kind as to point me to a post or thread with details about it and why I should be looking for one?

Brian

The attraction is they have "a cool old unique look" backed by more than acceptable performance and price. :thumbup:

MPOWERD · Oct 7, 2015

Rileysan said:
I saw this thread and am blown away at how many posts there are on this grinder. It's so big, however, that I am having trouble learning what is so great about the Craftsman Block grinder. Would someone be so kind as to point me to a post or thread with details about it and why I should be looking for one?

Brian

In addition to what was said in the previous post the CMan Blockhead Grinders are overbuilt. The windings on the motors are up to 10 times as thick as what you get on a modern Chinese built motor. The housings are well built and simply last, last, last...

I now have three... a 1/3 HP (1960s), a 1/2HP(early 1970s) and a 1HP(1980s)... They are all nice and have their own uses. I am in the process of fixing my 1/2 HP as it has some missing bolts I have to source.

And even more importantly they are all USA Made so you are not supporting an enemy of this country through buying their low quality products...

drivesitfar · Oct 7, 2015

ALL: agreed the Craftsman blocks for style and cost are the best value for a bench grinder out there. if you want to spend more money you can find Baldor or maybe a Burr King and as stated before many many times in this thread the belt grinder might be the absolute best option if money isn't a factor.

GO BLOCKHEADS :thumbup:

firemanast · Oct 7, 2015

jransom said:
To me it's that they are made in America, run forever seemingly, bearings are easily replaced and they can be had on CL & EBay for not a lot of money. They are easy to disassemble and clean up as well. I have three different ones and they all run excellent. All of them are 30+ years old and will eventually go to my boys. There is also something to be said for their design aesthetic, which I really love, particularly the "Blocks"!

02superduty · Oct 7, 2015

Ok so I post on vise, tool boxes and now grinders. You guys are slowly sucking me in. I have 3 well 4 but the 4th is buried somewhere. I will mount the Craftsman in garage when I free up some floor space. The other 2 are in basement.

torqueman2002 · Oct 7, 2015

zkling said:
Agreed; and I'm not saying they are bad, but some people and no I am not including you, act like they are the end all be all to bench grinders. I was so intrigued I had to try a few for myself. Kinda like the workmakes, some people act like they are the next best thing to sliced bread, I beg to differ. While they get the job done and have a few a few slick features, such as glass eye shields and ducts, overall they are just not what some people make them out to be.

What really set me over the wall was when I got a hold of one of the stands. Way to short and if on a slightly uneven surface become a huge tip over hazard. Yet again some go crazy for them. Again, in my opinion.

BTW, would a shot of a 1/2hp red baldor help you with your red 3/4 cap issue?

Funny about the CM stands, they can sell for more than a grinder.

I am disappointed I haven't received a reply about the 3/4-HP red grinder from Baldor.

Yes, a pic of a 1/2 HP Baldor will help.

I will also check with a local motor rebuilder that has helped me with a really trashed 1-HP Block.
:thumbup:

bagged89s10 · Oct 7, 2015

zkling said:
Agreed; and I'm not saying they are bad, but some people and no I am not including you, act like they are the end all be all to bench grinders. I was so intrigued I had to try a few for myself. Kinda like the workmakes, some people act like they are the next best thing to sliced bread, I beg to differ. While they get the job done and have a few a few slick features, such as glass eye shields and ducts, overall they are just not what some people make them out to be.

What really set me over the wall was when I got a hold of one of the stands. Way to short and if on a slightly uneven surface become a huge tip over hazard. Yet again some go crazy for them. Again, in my opinion.

BTW, would a shot of a 1/2hp red baldor help you with your red 3/4 cap issue?

Yes the stands are short for taller people. The height works for me as I'm 5'4". But the stands are better than some others I've seen which you are extremely top heavy unless bolted down. These stands don't take up a large footprint and you can carry it outside if you wish, like I do.

For the price you can get these for, they are cool looking and blow away the imports you can buy for a similar price today. Most have enough power for most home users. We are not talking about industrial use where the grinder is on for 8 hours a day. I find the 1/2HP commercial sufficient to grind, wire wheel, and buff for what I do.

bagged89s10 · Oct 7, 2015

dngrmse said:
Buy some flexible exhaust pipes- joined by a Y adapter at the bottom, into a 5 gallon metal paint can.

That's a good idea. Or a beer can?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444265274.993383.jpg

WQ59B · Oct 7, 2015

I have another as my regular, but just picked this one up @ an estate sale; very nice homemade stand, quench tray, dresser, and bearings that seems to take 2 full minutes to coast to a stop.

bagged89s10 · Oct 7, 2015

WQ59B said:
I have another as my regular, but just picked this one up @ an estate sale; very nice homemade stand, quench tray, dresser, and bearings that seems to take 2 full minutes to coast to a stop.

Nice! Gotta love when you gonna complete one like that one.

McBrownie · Oct 7, 2015

WQ59B said:
I have another as my regular, but just picked this one up @ an estate sale; very nice homemade stand, quench tray, dresser, and bearings that seems to take 2 full minutes to coast to a stop.

Very nice 1/2hp commercial. That is my favorite style even if zkling thinks they ****. Don't know what you paid, but the lamp alone can go for $50. Take a look at TM's signature line for bearings (a long wind down usually means they are dry) and safety tips. Then use the heck out of it. Congrats on the find.

zkling · Oct 8, 2015

McBrownie said:
Very nice 1/2hp commercial. That is my favorite style even if zkling thinks they ****. Don't know what you paid, but the lamp alone can go for $50. Take a look at TM's signature line for bearings (a long wind down usually means they are dry) and safety tips. Then use the heck out of it. Congrats on the find.

Don't put words in my mouth.

WQ59B · Oct 8, 2015

It was marked $65, I paid $50.
Are the bearings serviceable, or at least accessible?

GETRIDAONE · Oct 8, 2015

I left a 3/4 HP at an estate sale last week. It had the light and was in very good shape and hardly used. They were asking $65 and it had a homemade metal stand. The label was a yellow color. I was going to buy it until I picked it up, seemed very light weight Did I do bad by not taking it home ?

bagged89s10 · Oct 8, 2015

GETRIDAONE said:
I left a 3/4 HP at an estate sale last week. It had the light and was in very good shape and hardly used. They were asking $65 and it had a homemade metal stand. The label was a yellow color. I was going to buy it until I picked it up, seemed very light weight Did I do bad by not taking it home ?

They are light because of the aluminum inner and outer shields. I would have bought it.

firemanast · Oct 8, 2015

WQ59B said:
I have another as my regular, but just picked this one up @ an estate sale; very nice homemade stand, quench tray, dresser, and bearings that seems to take 2 full minutes to coast to a stop.

Sweet find very nice!

firemanast · Oct 8, 2015

GETRIDAONE said:
I left a 3/4 HP at an estate sale last week. It had the light and was in very good shape and hardly used. They were asking $65 and it had a homemade metal stand. The label was a yellow color. I was going to buy it until I picked it up, seemed very light weight Did I do bad by not taking it home ?

I would have bought it in a heartbeat!

McBrownie · Oct 8, 2015

WQ59B said:
It was marked $65, I paid $50.
Are the bearings serviceable, or at least accessible?

Well worth the $50. The bearings require a tear down, but it's not difficult.

Here is a picture of a flat top with the bearings circled in red.
View media item 54017
1) Remove the stones and wheel guards
2) Remove the center "tin" (you may have to disconnect some wires, so take notes or pictures)
3) Separate the motor housing halves by removing the 3 long bolts that hold them together
4) The bearings will be on the rotor. Make a note of the orientation of the felt and spring washers.
5) Remove the old bearings and press on the new ones. I have not run across any that were pressed on very tightly so a couple of light taps on the shaft while supporting the bearing is all it takes. Be careful not to damage the threads when doing this.

Here is a page with links to some bearing suppliers:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5121128&highlight=bearings#post5121128

torqueman2002 · Oct 8, 2015

My comments are in Blue.

WQ59B said:
It was marked $65, I paid $50.
Are the bearings serviceable, or at least accessible?
They are fairly easy to replace, readily available, and reasonably priced.
Here's a good use of a Workmate to hold a Block while tearing it down.

Thanks McB!
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4403268&postcount=3346

GETRIDAONE said:
I left a 3/4 HP at an estate sale last week. It had the light and was in very good shape and hardly used. They were asking $65 and it had a homemade metal stand. The label was a yellow color. I was going to buy it until I picked it up, seemed very light weight Did I do bad by not taking it home ?
A 3/4-HP is probably more grinder than most people need for most home uses; but, a CM Block is the best [see above posts] if you are using it in a home shop. For continuous (commercial/industrial) use: new/vintage Baldor, vintage Delta Triple-Duty, ....

I saw this Block at an estate sale yesterday.

It is on a CM stand, complete, lightly used, and by experience I knew from the picture it was a 1/3-HP m-397.19410 with 3-position switch & electronic Brake.

It was marked $145, and I walked away, thinking it would not sell.

Today, I checked the estate sale listing and some one bought it on the 1st day. :shocking:

torqueman2002 · Oct 8, 2015

Nice write-up McB!

I was looking for my pictures of pulling a stubborn bearing off the arbor, using a bearing-splitter and puller.

I'll post it here when I find it.

Also, I like to leave the arbor nut on, when using a soft-faced hammer to remove a bearing.

It not only protects the threads from errant blows, but it can be used to 'chase' the threads, should they need it.

I found a pic of a 1-HP m-257.191600 bearing removal.
Notes:
A. This 1-HP Block uses a E-clip behind the bearings
B. The arbor is a different dia. bearings are therefore not the same as your grinders bearings.

Full tear-down, here--> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279094

zkling · Oct 8, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
I saw this Block at an estate sale yesterday.

It is on a CM stand, complete, lightly used, and by experience I knew from the picture it was a 1/3-HP m-397.19410 with 3-position switch & electronic Brake.

It was marked $145, and I walked away, thinking it would not sell.

Today, I checked the estate sale listing and some one bought it on the 1st day.

Like vises, I'm sure this forum has a slight (maybe more) influence on the block grinder market.

torqueman2002 · Oct 8, 2015

^^ Yes, to an extent.

I've seen eBay prices being checked for vintage audio equipment at an estate sale.

JZiggy · Oct 8, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
Nice write-up McB!

Also, I like to leave the arbor nut on, when using a soft-faced hammer to remove a bearing.

It not only protects the threads from errant blows, but it can be used to 'chase' the threads, should they need it.

That is very good advice for multiple situations. I use that method when popping ball joints. It also prevents the threads from deforming under compressive load when the puller gets really clamped down.

Bobioz1 · Oct 8, 2015

These Craftsman grinders ARE the end all be all bench grinder. Where else can you spend so little money and get so much tool? Plus they made tons of them. Plenty of people looking for them. Plenty of people finding them. Used parts available on EBay. Bearings are common and cheap. Easy to work on. Better to spend a few bucks on an overbuilt underused "homeowner grade" grinder out of some old mans basement than to spend big bucks on an overbuilt used up commercial grinder out of a dying machine shop. As always I.M.O.

JZiggy · Oct 9, 2015

My block began struggling to start and growling a lot during startup. It seemed like the rotor was scrubbing against the armature.

Sure enough, I could loosen the 3 main bolts, shift the relative position of the housing halves slightly, tighten back up, and change the response. Sometimes it was totally stuck, sometimes it was a little better.

Then I had an idea to *force* the air gap to be what it needed to be. I took one half off and inserted 10 thou shim slivers in four quadrants of the air gap. Reinstalled the housing half and the bolts. Snugged them, tapped the housing to equalize, and torqued them down. Pulled the shims out. Now it starts perfectly, no grinding at all.

After doing this I realize it would be best to do this process twice: once when seating the armature to the 1st housing half, and again when installing the second half.

McBrownie · Oct 9, 2015

JZiggy said:
My block began struggling to start and growling a lot during startup. It seemed like the rotor was scrubbing against the armature.

Sure enough, I could loosen the 3 main bolts, shift the relative position of the housing halves slightly, tighten back up, and change the response. Sometimes it was totally stuck, sometimes it was a little better.

Then I had an idea to *force* the air gap to be what it needed to be. I took one half off and inserted 10 thou shim slivers in four quadrants of the air gap. Reinstalled the housing half and the bolts. Snugged them, tapped the housing to equalize, and torqued them down. Pulled the shims out. Now it starts perfectly, no grinding at all.

That is a great idea. I never thought about having access to long shims like that before re-installing the center tin. Also good to know that .010" shims are the right size. Thanks for the write up. :thumbup:

torqueman2002 · Oct 9, 2015

McBrownie said:
That is a great idea. I never thought about having access to long shims like that before re-installing the center tin. Also good to know that .010" shims are the right size. Thanks for the write up.

x2!

I like this idea. Now, what common household item is 0.010"?

Beer can? :lol:

Edit
If you don't have 0.010" shims, see some 'common' house hold items below.

JZiggy · Oct 9, 2015

Probably!

I have a brass sheet of 10, 5, and 3 thou from McMaster in my tool box. They are <$10 each and I find I end up cutting them up for stuff like this all the time.

drivesitfar · Oct 9, 2015

JZ: nice tip and thanks for sharing.

JZiggy · Oct 9, 2015

drivesitfar said:
JZ: nice tip and thanks for sharing.

Thanks Drives. I have another 1/2hp that needs bearings and when I get around to it I'll post up a better writeup. I was shy of tearing into this one because of all the trouble I've had with startup on my 3/4hp.

torqueman2002 · Oct 10, 2015

JZiggy said:
Thanks Drives. I have another 1/2hp that needs bearings and when I get around to it I'll post up a better writeup. I was shy of tearing into this one because of all the trouble I've had with startup on my 3/4hp.

JZ - If you don't get to the root cause, after following the procedure in my PM, feel free to send the 3/4-HP Block to me.

I'll move it to the top of the Que and see what in the world is making it behave like it is.

I have some 3/4-HP Blocks that I can swap-out parts to see if a different field coil ***'y, and/or arbor, and/or housings, and/or relay, and/or, ....?

BTW - I'm thinking of posting that procedure here, if you're OK with that.

I'd like to get others input on it.

I just need to figure out how to format the indents, for readability.

torqueman2002 · Oct 10, 2015

Is anyone looking for a complete 1/3-HP Block m-397.19581?

A nice one turned up near me.

OK, after another look, it's OK looking.

PM me.

There maybe a CM stand, also.
:thumbup:

let's see your craftsman block grinders

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member