Snap-On Floor jack rebuild Part I
- Thread starter Hiball
- Start date
Mister B
Member
Nice detailed write up.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
cruiser808
Well-known member
Awesome thread, Hiball. I have the Napa version of this jack and while it's working just fine, some day I will probably need to a rebuild. Your instruction is just what we need preserve our old USA jacks. Thank you, my friend and I'm looking forward to more of the rebuild. Talk about motivation!
As you are going through the steps, Please let us know what specific tools and parts (numbers) we need to do to properly do a Walker rebuild like you're doing. I'm so glad I have a 3/4" breaker bar and 2" socket. Thanks.
As you are going through the steps, Please let us know what specific tools and parts (numbers) we need to do to properly do a Walker rebuild like you're doing. I'm so glad I have a 3/4" breaker bar and 2" socket. Thanks.
Re: Snap-On Floor jack rebuild Questions?
Ive been doing a little thinking and i'm definitely gonna repaint Snap on Red, So Im looking for some help finding the proper Color or Really... Close. I was thinking about having some of the fasteners Chromed to really set the Red off and just scream Snap on. I have enclosed a picture with my ideas and am curious to what you guys think. I dont what to overdue it be scared to use it but i think a little bit would look awesome. Open to suggestions fellas.
Ive been doing a little thinking and i'm definitely gonna repaint Snap on Red, So Im looking for some help finding the proper Color or Really... Close. I was thinking about having some of the fasteners Chromed to really set the Red off and just scream Snap on. I have enclosed a picture with my ideas and am curious to what you guys think. I dont what to overdue it be scared to use it but i think a little bit would look awesome. Open to suggestions fellas.
cruiser808
Well-known member
Hey Elroy, look what you got going, This is just so cool. Thank you my friend. 
Awesome thread, Hiball. I have the Napa version of this jack and while it's working just fine, some day I will probably need to a rebuild. Your instruction is just what we need preserve our old USA jacks. Thank you, my friend and I'm looking forward to more of the rebuild. Talk about motivation!
As you are going through the steps, Please let us know what specific tools and parts (numbers) we need to do to properly do a Walker rebuild like you're doing. I'm so glad I have a 3/4" breaker bar and 2" socket. Thanks.
Depending on the age of your napa it may not have the same type of tank nut, Some of them use a spanner nut and they my friend are a pain in the Azz. I hope yours doesnt a you can get away with using a big socket. As far as part numbers i will keep everyone up to date and if you look towards the bottom of each thread i have been listing what tools where required to get to that point. Im definitly better at doing than explaining sometimes so bear with me fellas. And by all means if you have any questions feel free to ask dont worry about hijacking my thread its all good.
cruiser808
Well-known member
Re: Snap-On Floor jack rebuild Questions?
As far as I can see, Hiball, the world is your oyster. These Walkers came in red for Snap-on, silver for NAPA (like mine) and dark blue for everyone else. Seems the yellow accent is a common for all of them. I'll check my 1999 Snap-on catalog and report back to you.
Ive been doing a little thinking and i'm definitely gonna repaint Snap on Red, So Im looking for some help finding the proper Color or Really... Close. I was thinking about having some of the fasteners Chromed to really set the Red off and just scream Snap on. I have enclosed a picture with my ideas and am curious to what you guys think. I dont what to overdue it be scared to use it but i think a little bit would look awesome. Open to suggestions fellas.
As far as I can see, Hiball, the world is your oyster. These Walkers came in red for Snap-on, silver for NAPA (like mine) and dark blue for everyone else. Seems the yellow accent is a common for all of them. I'll check my 1999 Snap-on catalog and report back to you.
cruiser808
Well-known member
This is so cool! My NAPA was one of the last sold in Hawaii before the stores changed to imports. That was about five years ago IIRC.
Hiball, as you are going through the build, I'll be checking out my jack for comparison. Any date changes will be noted and documented as best I can for all GJ members thinking of undertaking a similar project. I will do my best to assist in the documentation under your direction.
billymade
Well-known member
Snapon Red: PPG Ditzler 73504
J.A.F.E.
Well-known member
Re: Snap-On Floor jack rebuild Questions?
While it's not "stock", those would be some cool accents.The front axle and rear caster pivot pins would look pretty cool chromed, too.
Ive been doing a little thinking and i'm definitely gonna repaint Snap on Red, So Im looking for some help finding the proper Color or Really... Close. I was thinking about having some of the fasteners Chromed to really set the Red off and just scream Snap on. I have enclosed a picture with my ideas and am curious to what you guys think. I dont what to overdue it be scared to use it but i think a little bit would look awesome. Open to suggestions fellas.
While it's not "stock", those would be some cool accents.The front axle and rear caster pivot pins would look pretty cool chromed, too.
fatfillup
Well-known member
Hiball, bling is good, go wild!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: Snap-On Floor jack rebuild Questions?
Red and Black with some white Pin Stripe would just kick some *** ! As far a fasteners are concerned. Instead of chrome Elroy would recommend Stainless Steel. That stainless can be buffed and polished to a mirror finishish and would last a life time.
Excellent post. Keep it coming with the Ooooh!
Ive been doing a little thinking and i'm definitely gonna repaint Snap on Red, So Im looking for some help finding the proper Color or Really... Close. I was thinking about having some of the fasteners Chromed to really set the Red off and just scream Snap on. I have enclosed a picture with my ideas and am curious to what you guys think. I dont what to overdue it be scared to use it but i think a little bit would look awesome. Open to suggestions fellas.
Red and Black with some white Pin Stripe would just kick some *** ! As far a fasteners are concerned. Instead of chrome Elroy would recommend Stainless Steel. That stainless can be buffed and polished to a mirror finishish and would last a life time.
Excellent post. Keep it coming with the Ooooh!
Does anyone know where i can buy this paint? I googled but it kept bringing me to GJ posts from the past. Any Major Retailers? Thanks in advance.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Hiball,
Any auto paint store can mix it up for you. Just give them the number and tell them how much you need (a pint should be plenty...)
Any auto paint store can mix it up for you. Just give them the number and tell them how much you need (a pint should be plenty...)
billymade
Well-known member
Go to any paint jobber for the Auto Body industry; just look in the phone book under "auto body supplies", you should find the local connection for you. In my area we have both NAPA, Carquest and a independant shop that specialize in auto body paint, supplies etc.
Elroy fully understands your desire to utilize the correct color paint but would point out that there are several "red" engine enamels readily available off the shelf.
These rattle can enamels are fuel and oil proof and set rather hard with a good gloss. Now granted they're not a catalyzed paint.
Just remember: Keep it comin with the Ooooh.
lookin forward to your progress posts
These rattle can enamels are fuel and oil proof and set rather hard with a good gloss. Now granted they're not a catalyzed paint.
Just remember: Keep it comin with the Ooooh.
lookin forward to your progress posts
trackwelder
Well-known member
My local shop can mix any color and put it in a aerosol can ready to spray. The last one I got it was $20.00 for a half pint of paint and $8.00 for the spray can. Add a can of clear and your all set.
Ill check it out tomorrow, We have a Local Carquest, Oreilly <-- I hate going in there. Its Retard central.
billymade
Well-known member
Elory, do you have a opinion as to what brand/paint is the closest to the Snap-On red? I have some Snap-On projects that I would like to paint but found the auto body paint route is expensive; $100-$150 for a small project! Even then, possibly not as durable as engine paint; I have been looking at some "Farm & Implement Paint
" by Krylon. Any info or advice appreciated!
I was looking at:
Am. Beauty/Int'l Harvester Red Available in 12 oz. — 1818
Massey Ferguson Red Available in 12 oz. — 1826
The problem is; I have no clue what these colors are really like, I guess I could buy a can of each and test them out! Anyone have a clue what these reds are like?
http://www.krylon.com/products/farm_implement_paint/
" by Krylon. Any info or advice appreciated!
I was looking at:
Am. Beauty/Int'l Harvester Red Available in 12 oz. — 1818
Massey Ferguson Red Available in 12 oz. — 1826
The problem is; I have no clue what these colors are really like, I guess I could buy a can of each and test them out! Anyone have a clue what these reds are like?
http://www.krylon.com/products/farm_implement_paint/
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trackwelder
Well-known member
This was at an autobody only store.
Ill do some checking around tomorrow, We have a quite a few Autobody shops. My first intensions was to use the exact Snap on color along with a paint gun etc. The only reason i was shying away from rattle can was because the paint always seems thin and not very scratch resistant. My knowledge of Paints is limited and i realize there is a big difference between your typical 99 cent rattle can and the higher end stuff. For you paint buffs can i get a nice, shiny, scratch resistant along with longevity look via the rattle can. What procedures other than a quality primer should be followed after a full degreasing and bead-blast?
Like any thing else you need to do some research. Find some sources and request some paint chip color samples.
Shades of reds and yellows are tough to match. Even blues can be a *****. Some times a total repaint is the best solution
Rattles cans are fine IF you get a quality product but it's still going to be an air dry enamel. You're not going to get as durable a finish out of a rattle can as with a catalysed "modern" paint system. Look, you're not painting a show car here. Elroy would also stay away from base coat clear coat. Sure you can have any color you want mixed up and then you can spray it and clear it. Looks great, right.
WRONG
Elroy has news for ya and he thinks you'll agree. The finished paint is only going to be a good as the prep work under it!!!
You're highest quality catalyzed base coat clear coat is going to look like **** applied over rust and grease.
Look, You got three areas to work here:
The first is the hydraulic systems. You're a pro at that. Done
Second is fixing the "mechanical". Like the caster wheel and the all the snap rings and all the nuts and bolts.
Then you come to the part that really eats up the time. Surface preparation !! And that's a BIG part of making it look good.
Get a good base to it and even a rattle can will look good if properly applied. You know: No runs.
Elroy is looking forward to your progress reports. You got a hell of a quick start to it. Bet it slows down a little now due to all the surface preparation that's involved. Parts prep is a big time eater. If you want it to look good it's mandatory to clean and prep the surfaces. Like gringing off all the weld spatter and spot filling the dings and dents.
It'a a lot of work but we bet it looks good when done.
Keep it comin......................you know, with the Oooh.
Make it look GOOD Baby!
No problem there, new Casters on the way and except the 4 main unit bolts everything else will be new.
Then you come to the part that really eats up the time. Surface preparation !! And that's a BIG part of making it look good.
It'a a lot of work but we bet it looks good when done.
Keep it comin......................you know, with the Oooh.
Make it look GOOD Baby!
Most definitely the the easy part is done, I have the total of a Hour wrapped up in dismantling the jack, Hell it took me longer to take the pics and post it on this awesome forum.
My friend has 2 blast cabinets, 1 of them big enough to fit a Automobile door inside. I really wont know what i have untill i get to that point. But rest assured there wont be any painting over rust or Grease. I will remedy the grease issue before it hits the blast cabinet otherwise it will junk up the blast. What i do know is things are gonna slow down considerably but im confident in the end all will be good.
benjamming
Well-known member
I 2nd the notion of SST hardware & not chrome.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Hiball,
I agree with Elroy that the prep is the main item to a good paint job. If you are familiar with a spray gun, buy a quality, catalyzed, single stage paint from an auto paint store. You could use a base coat/clear coat system but it will take twice as long to paint and to be honest about it, it will not look any nicer on a jack.
If you were thinking of candy, pearl, metallic or similar paints, I would use the base/clear route but with a simple, non-metallic color, a single stage is the way to go. Blast it to get a good, uniform finish, spray a coat of etching primer/sealer, sand and top coat with your Snap-on red color. It will look great.
Rattle cans are nice (even if custom mixed at a paint store) but they will not be catalyzed (to the extent you will by mixing yourself) will not be as hard, will generally be much thinner and the spray control is not as precise as a gun.
I agree with Elroy that the prep is the main item to a good paint job. If you are familiar with a spray gun, buy a quality, catalyzed, single stage paint from an auto paint store. You could use a base coat/clear coat system but it will take twice as long to paint and to be honest about it, it will not look any nicer on a jack.
If you were thinking of candy, pearl, metallic or similar paints, I would use the base/clear route but with a simple, non-metallic color, a single stage is the way to go. Blast it to get a good, uniform finish, spray a coat of etching primer/sealer, sand and top coat with your Snap-on red color. It will look great.
Rattle cans are nice (even if custom mixed at a paint store) but they will not be catalyzed (to the extent you will by mixing yourself) will not be as hard, will generally be much thinner and the spray control is not as precise as a gun.
trackwelder
Well-known member
The paint that I am talking about is actual ppg automotive grade paint custom mixed and installed in a can designed for this purpose. I have done small high quality repairs with this along with SEM brand high build primer and clear in cans. Sometimes its not worth the effort to use a conventional gun when you factor in the cleaning time.
Makes sense, I did a little research today and am unable to get the custom mixed areosol locally. I am leaning towards a quality Premium Rattle can but it is really hard trying to match the snap on Red to the Lid of the cans. Maybe i could drag my box into the store and eye ball them. It doesnt have to be the exact color but i would like it to be as close as possible. Btw i got hit with the bill today on my 2 sets of casters $57 bucks x2. My grandpa wants me to keep a running total so he can say " I told you so" when im done. He asked me how much in parts i thought i would have in it when i was done and I responded prolly $150, Oops Im already 70% Percent of the way there. He was guessing $400 total. We will see how i feel when this is done but if all goes well i have a OLD....Old Blackhawk collecting dust that might be my next project.
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Gareth68
Well-known member
My suggestion, and y'all can take it for what it is worth...take the smallest sample of color you can to your best local powdercoating facility. The colors have come a helluva a long ways, and if you are going to actually use the tool when you are done, it would be well worth it to have a finish that could handle abuse. Of course, that is if you are going to actually use it...
=-)
=-)
Well that would be the ultimate "paint" job. One issue to consider is the fact that you've just added about $300 and a good many additional hours "engineering" solutions to the many problems that painting method would cause.
For example the front axle slides through both the frame and wheels. As a result the bore in both the side plates and wheels would have to be opened up to accommodate the substantial paint mil that a powder coat would add to the axle diameter. Then again you could just mask off the "bearing journals" but you would still have the problem of getting the axle to pass through the side plates.
Sure it could be done but don't think for a second there wouldn't be some major issues to address.
But hay it is a Snap-on so nothing but the best.
bberger
Well-known member
Snap on does sell the color you need in a spray can. I just did my cabinet
I looked online and it was showing N/A Yesterday.
Yes, I think this is what mine has, and so far, I haven't been able to remove it. I tried a while back but I haven't had a chance to give it another try. I'm not looking forward to it. Is it safe to apply heat?
Heat in moderation wont hurt it, Ive heard stories of using punches to loosen these and i wouldnt recommend it. They will break and then you are screwed unless you can find a used one. I have yet to find a spanner wrench that will remove one. I used pipe wrenches in the past but the metal is so hard its hard to get a bite and if it does bite you have to make sure you dont get to close the resevoir account it will muck it up and it wont seal. I have a homemade tool that works rather well and essentially all it is a flat piece of steel with notches that have 1/4" flat stock to fit in the spanner grooves on both sides. It may take a little experimenting but if you have a welder i would recommend this route.
Speed-Racer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2008
- Messages
- 731
You could order the rattle cans from Snap-On, my dealer charged me the hazmat shipping charges. This has been a couple of years but I recall the cans with shipping cost were expensive.
Some local paint shops can mix up custom paints and put that color into rattle cans. I have a can of Plasti-Kote, custom color universal blend that was mixed up a local paint shop, to match the car paint. I wanted a couple of engine parts to match the body color, the results were very good. You could try to find a local paint dealer that offers the custom rattle cans, this is a really easy and low cost ($14.95) way to have the correct paint color. I think rustoleum has a very nice shade of red if you decide to go that route.
Some local paint shops can mix up custom paints and put that color into rattle cans. I have a can of Plasti-Kote, custom color universal blend that was mixed up a local paint shop, to match the car paint. I wanted a couple of engine parts to match the body color, the results were very good. You could try to find a local paint dealer that offers the custom rattle cans, this is a really easy and low cost ($14.95) way to have the correct paint color. I think rustoleum has a very nice shade of red if you decide to go that route.
Uncle Buck
Banned
Yup, it is the real deal there, I did that too, saved a lot of time, trouble, and cleanup!
chrislehr
Well-known member
For the paint, I recommend the Rustoleum Sunrise Red seen here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38758
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38758