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1/2 drive.... how important

Kev442

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I slowly added 3/4, starting with a breaker bar because the 1/2 flexed too much. Then added the the HF cheapy set. Last year I noticed various 3/4 sockets on Cripes. I have 3/4 sockets that go down below 1" now.:wtf:
 
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KillNThrill24

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I have a 3/8" deep well impact snap on socket set and ratchet that I have thoroughly abused, and they've held up incredibly well.

That said, I much prefer to use my 1/2" stuff. The extra torque I get from my 1/2" ratchets being longer makes it worth it alone. Not to mention the added strength of the 1/2" stuff for peace of mind. I also have not broken any 1/2" sockets, where as prior to my snap on stuff, I have snapped some 3/8" sockets.

Once every blue moon, I do have to bust out the 3/4" stuff too. It's nice to have a lot to pick from.

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JulianMorrow

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My favorite tool is an old 1/2" Craftsman RH 9-43797. I always reach for that ratchet before any other tool. As KillNThrill24 noted, I like the extra leverage the 1/2" drive provides--let the tool do the work. But I recently used my 3/8" Craftsman RH 9-43796 on my son's 02 Camry for an ATF spill & fill. The transmission pan takes a 10mm hex, and all my hex sockets were 3/8". Those two Craftsman ratchets are almost as old as me, but they still do the job.
 
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FSrepair&fabrication

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maryland
1/2 is small. I have more 1” and 3/4 than 1/2. Once you get over a 5/8 bolt (15/16 head) 3/4 really shines especially with air guns. If you work on cars or pickups in the rust belt, 1/2 is a no brainer. The work decides what tools you need...
 

Nero

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Feb 20, 2016
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I use 1/2" drive on everything from my motorcycles to my truck. Lug nuts, axle nuts, steering/suspension stuff like ball joints, they all require (or at least are best served by) 1/2" drive. And they're not all easily accessible by impact, so I do use 1/2" ratchets and chrome sockets/extensions regularly as well.

You don't strictly need chrome 1/2" sockets or extensions, though. Impact sockets/extensions work just fine with a ratchet and torque wrench as well.

Only exception of having strictly impact, is you may wish you had a chrome socket once in awhile if you have a clearance issue to where the impact socket is too thick.
 

Tallpilot

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I slowly added 3/4, starting with a breaker bar because the 1/2 flexed too much. Then added the the HF cheapy set. Last year I noticed various 3/4 sockets on Cripes. I have 3/4 sockets that go down below 1" now.:wtf:

I did the same. I needed to turn an axle nut about 1mm to get the cotter pin holes lined up. It’s disconcerting when a 24” breaker bar visibly flexes. At that point you really don’t care about elastic vs plastic deformation. You just want something that doesn’t make you envision impaling yourself.
 

JulianMorrow

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It would be smart for me to buy another 1/2" ratchet, since I only have one--my 1/2" Craftsman is 30 years old. I'd hate for that to break in the middle of a job without another 1/2" ratchet. Not sure I like the new Craftsman ratchets coming out of China with the flat handle. I'd like to pick up a Snap-On 1/2" Flexhead, but can't envision spending $200 on a ratchet.
 

Nero

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It would be smart for me to buy another 1/2" ratchet, since I only have one--my 1/2" Craftsman is 30 years old. I'd hate for that to break in the middle of a job without another 1/2" ratchet. Not sure I like the new Craftsman ratchets coming out of China with the flat handle. I'd like to pick up a Snap-On 1/2" Flexhead, but can't envision spending $200 on a ratchet.

Try this: I've had it for a few years in a professional environment, and it's held up, and it's not terribly expensive either.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQR12FQR
 

JulianMorrow

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Try this: I've had it for a few years in a professional environment, and it's held up, and it's not terribly expensive either.

I was in NAPA a few weeks ago--saw the Carlyle line & think there was some GearWrench in there as well. I was on eBay last weekend and *almost bought a $60 used Mac 1/2" flexhead ratchet. I hit the site the next day for a second look and the Mac ratchet was gone.
 

wilb1976

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Mar 7, 2010
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Maui
This is my usage.

Work - 1/4” 5%, 3/8” 80%, 1/2” 10%, 3/4” 5%
Home - 1/4” 40%, 3/8” 50%, 1/2” 10%, 3/4” 0% (so far)
 

Formula

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If you have to ask that question, then you yourself probably don't need them.
 

zendriver

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Indiana
I never use 3/8 when working on brakes and other heavier fasteners. 1/2 only.

FWIW other than a Cman 12pt ratchet/socket set, all my 1/2" are HF 6pt impact sockets.

Works perfect and leaves a lot of room in the tool chest, for other stuff.
 

bonneyman

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1/2 is small. I have more 1” and 3/4 than 1/2. Once you get over a 5/8 bolt (15/16 head) 3/4 really shines especially with air guns. If you work on cars or pickups in the rust belt, 1/2 is a no brainer. The work decides what tools you need...

10-4

In residential HVAC I use 1/4" drive almost all the time, some 3/8" drive. Panel screws, cabinet attachment bolts, etc.
Sockets are not that important - wrenches are the thing. Long, short, stubby, angle, flare, 0 offset, ratcheting, crowsfeet. Every size in like 6 or 7 styles. Never know where the dang fittings are going to be located.
 

matthew

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When I got my first vehicle, 3/8" drive was my go-to. But a fairly high percentage of fasteners on that were around 9/16" or 14mm in size.

Since then I've switched to 1/4" being my most used, and 1/2" is probably 2nd most. Pretty simple reason why - furniture and plumbing are too easy to overtorque, and 1/4" is just convenient. The car uses a lot of 10mm. Same with small engines. And even though my car is smaller, I seem to run into 21mm and larger fasteners more often than on my old truck - seems like the way things are designed has changed, and fewer larger fasteners are the norm.

There's still jobs I still use 3/8" for - spark plugs comes to mind in particular, but I also tend to use them on drain plugs. And my 3/8" socket collection is the most comprehensive - my 1/2" selection in particular isn't as complete. But if I was starting from scratch, I'm not sure I'd do the same.

Although, come to think of it, 1/4" hex drive screwdriver bits in a bitrachet are right up there with 1/4" square drive in how often I use them. For anyone interested enough to read this board, and just putting together a general purpose tool collection, I'd say both that and a basic 1/2" is important.
 
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davethorik

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Norka, Ohio
One of the first vintage "sets" I put together was a vintage mishmash of 3/4 drive stuff. Bonney rat, fair bit of other Bonney bits but all USA 3/4 thru 2-3/8". It didn't cost me a lot of money but I did this over maybe a 6-8 month span of time.

In 2017 I finally got me some quality 1/2 drive long ratchets. Cornwell flex heads at 17 and 27" long, and a Snappy fixed head at 2'. I now use these with an adaptor to 3/4. They are longer than my Bonney 3/4 rat at 19" by a bit. I use 1/2 drive a lot. At home and at work.
 

Aaron_W

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I'd say all 3 have a place, but I'd drop 1/4" before 1/2".

The other thing is there are times where you need two wrenches, like holding a bolt with one and turning the nut with the other. It makes a lot more sense to me to have a set of 3/8" and a set of 1/2" instead of duplicating everything in one size.

If somebody made me choose only one, I'd have a tough time, 3/8" will do about 90% of what I need, but in practice probably only does 40-50% of the work. It is generally handier, but when I need 1/2" drive it is certainly nice to have and I have a lot more confidence in it when breaking loose a stubborn bolt.

So far I've not needed anything larger than 1/2" drive, but I just bought an old Dodge 2 ton 4x4 truck, so I could see finding myself building a small selection of 3/4" drive in the near future.
 
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danielbuck

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The other thing is there are times where you need two wrenches, like holding a bolt with one and turning the nut with the other. It makes a lot more sense to me to have a set of 3/8" and a set of 1/2" instead of duplicating everything in one size.

I do have duplicate sockets in 1/2", but often I'll grab a large (2 foot handle) crescent wrench to hold the opposite end while I crank away the other side with a socket. (or blast away with an impact), for bolts that go through a frame, where there's easy access.
 

MrDeerHunter

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Nov 19, 2017
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I have a 3/4 drive SK set that I use fairly regularly and I use 1/2 all the time on my tractor. It all depends on use. If you have the space in your box buy a cheaper set and see if you use it. 1/4 and 3/8 for vehicles and the bigger stuff is for bigger equipment.

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Engineer61

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Oct 26, 2012
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Colorado
I bought the Greys Duo 1/4" socket set and use it a lot with my Milwaukee 1/4 hex driver, both around the house and on my 3/4 ton truck. The ratchets in the Duo sets have a low tooth count (1/4" is 72 tooth but 1/2" only 24) and I rarely use them but the sockets are great. They are chrome socket wall thickness, but made with a high strength alloy that gives them impact rated strength. Both SAE 3/16 - 9/16 and metric 4mm - 15mm, std and deep sockets, all in one long but thin case.
 

bonneyman

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One of the first vintage "sets" I put together was a vintage mishmash of 3/4 drive stuff. Bonney rat, fair bit of other Bonney bits but all USA 3/4 thru 2-3/8". It didn't cost me a lot of money but I did this over maybe a 6-8 month span of time.

In 2017 I finally got me some quality 1/2 drive long ratchets. Cornwell flex heads at 17 and 27" long, and a Snappy fixed head at 2'. I now use these with an adaptor to 3/4. They are longer than my Bonney 3/4 rat at 19" by a bit. I use 1/2 drive a lot. At home and at work.

I for one would like to see your collection of 3/4" drive Bonney! :drool:
 

Teenager with old tools

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riverside california
Am I the only odd ball that for homeowner use has 3/4 sockets and impacts and uses them? I needed to change an axle(CV) on my Accord a couple of weeks ago and need the bigger stuff.



Never needed it for anything on my s10 including all the suspension and axles but sure would have been nicer than a pipe over a half inch breaker bar. Now i’ve got a 3/4 set I use on my k10 and my Cummins and I would never go back to not using it


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Aaron_W

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I do have duplicate sockets in 1/2", but often I'll grab a large (2 foot handle) crescent wrench to hold the opposite end while I crank away the other side with a socket. (or blast away with an impact), for bolts that go through a frame, where there's easy access.

Yeah, there are certainly other options available, often times I use a combo wrench on the back side. Also people usually have both standard and deep sockets which would provide you with two sockets in the same size.

I've just found using 3/8" on one side and 1/2" on the other is a common solution for me, so I'd never toss out one size from my general tool kit.


Now for my small in the car repair kit I just have a basic 3/8" set, but I'm not expecting to do any major repairs with that kit. I just have it to fix simple problems away from home.
 

leoxdeng

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Nov 12, 2018
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London
I bumped into this thread and appreciate it's been a while since the last post - but I had to comment!

What hasn't been mentioned is the usefulness of good old ring spanners - especially the deep offset versions. I got fed up with getting clearance issues with 1/2 ratchet + sockets as they're just too fat - and I don't really want to risk breaking my nice Facom 3/8 with a cheater pipe - so I have slowly and patiently buying on ebay all metric sizes of deep offset ring spanners (all used but good brands - Elora, King **** and Britool here in the UK) - from 10mm to 36mm. The whole range of sizes cost me less than 100 quid to acquire but when I needed one to break free a well hidden bolt - they're worth their weight in gold!

Speaking of drive sizes - I stopped using a cheater pipe over 1/2 breaker bar on lug nuts - I have bought a Gedore 1 inch drive sliding T which is about 3' - and I can just stand on it and break loose any seized lug nuts effortlessly!

Thank you for reading. Namo Amituofo
 

richfinn

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Jan 29, 2011
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Leeds, Yorkshire, England
Wheel nuts/hub nuts/CV joints

Cylinder head bolts/flywheel bolts/crank bolts

Brake caliper carrier bolts

Steering/suspension bolts

Mostly 1/2" impact sockets on a impact wrench, but I have a breaker bar/long ratchet (for barring engines over) a few extensions and a Torque wrench

Mostly I use 3/8" and 1/4" for everything else, but have some 3/4" for big vans and truck wheel nuts

It depends what the torque spec of a fastener is, or how strong the Loctite!!!
 

Ralf11

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Feb 29, 2016
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And the sad think is, i don’t even have 1/4 drive for some reason

the reason is that you are not doing trim work on your car(s)

re: 1/2" drive... for cars, you "need" it for lug nuts, and the suspension - I even used 3/4" drive once on a rear axle nut

to save $$ for a DIYer, you can use an adapter on a 3/8" ratchet handle once you have things broken loose - you then only need a 1/2" breaker bar and maybe a torque wrench
 

BlakeTheCarGuy

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Oct 10, 2018
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Roanoke Virginia
Yep it is for me. I use it on brake caliper mounting bracket bolts, suspension, lots of other stuff and lots of stuff on my dads big rig I just used 1/2 on it yesterday and today. Very important just as important as 1/4 and 3/8.


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Semi-hole mechanic

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Feb 2, 2017
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I have a pretty complete set of 1/4 and 1/2 so I rarely use my 3/8 set. Growing up, Dad didn't buy a 3/8 set until the early 80s. He bought a KMart Pro metric set in 3/8 because it covered most of the common metric sizes that were starting to appear on cars and trucks.
 

bsaint

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Apr 26, 2010
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Manchester, CT
Do you find yourself needing longer handle 1/4 ratchets to make up for the times when you need more leverage, but 1/2 is too big?

With CNC machinery its either something small or something large and engineers design it so you can fit large tools on large fasteners. If a high torque hex nut is m8, 13mm is usually in a 1/2" dr set and a 1/2" drive ratchet will generally fit where that fastener is on our machinery.
 

nh_yota

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Mar 10, 2015
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Seacoast New Hampshire
I use my 1/2" sockets and ratchets all the time when I work on my Tacoma. They are a must for any suspension or brake work especially in salt/rust areas.
 
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