1946 Atlas Model 53

[hpmachining]

I thought I would create a new post in this forum to show the progress on my drill press and maybe ask a few questions. I posted a few things in my introduction thread.

I've made a little progress cleaning it up. I've got the rust polished off the column and the handles. I used maroon Scotch-Brite, followed by 600 grit paper, then 0000 steel wool, all with WD-40 as lubricant. I put Turtle Wax on them after that. I did the same to the guide pins for the motor mount plate.

The table and base surfaces took a little more effort. I used an orbital palm sander, light touch with some 80 grit and WD-40 followed by 150 grit. I cut a piece of Scotch-Brite and put it under the sander after that, then hand polished a little with the 0000 steel wool.

I've been tediously trying to clean paint spatter off of the original finish. I think it's just latex paint. I've been using IPA to soften it a little and picking and scraping it off with a piece of plastic and a wooden skewer. I'm working on the head now

This brings me to my first question. Do you think boiled linseed oil would be a good thing to use on the painted surfaces once I am done cleaning them up? I've never used it before so I don't know what to expect from it. I would try it on a small inconspicuous spot if I went that route. Or maybe there is something better? I have to admit, using linseed oil makes me a little nervous with what I've read about it's propensity to spontaneously combust, but I think I can figure out how to handle that safely.

I'll post more pictures as I go.

 

[FrankLee]

My first priority is to preserve the original paint when possible.

My process is to spray with Grez-Off, scrub with a small nail brush, rinse, dry and wax. I've tried several degreasers and found Grez-Off to work the best. It's more expensive than others, but the results are worth it, imo.
Examples:

Craftsman Drill Press

and a look of a machine that may have missed a preventative maintenance along the way ... That is very, very typical.

www.garagejournal.com

Craftsman Drill Press

Thanks Frank! I had no idea so many models had the cover as an option!

www.garagejournal.com

If a painted part is lightly rusted, I follow-up Grez-Off with Barkeepers Friend.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press.227480/post-11679613https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press.227480/post-11646252

 

[Beerhippie]

I cut a piece of Scotch-Brite and put it under the sander

That's how I turn scratched-up old stainless sheet metal into a nice, brushed finish. I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish instead of WD 40.

I've been using IPA to soften it a little

I generally use the IPA to soften myself up a little.

Do you think boiled linseed oil would be a good thing to use on the painted surfaces once I am done cleaning

BLO will change the color of the paint a little. Here's an example:

Before BLO, after cleaning:



After BLO:

My process is to spray with Grez-Off,

Be careful!

I used Greez-Off on that DP above.

Before:



After:



I could see the paint running on that badge instantly on applying the Greez-Off. I hit it with hot water as soon as I saw that, and saved some of the paint/dye.

It also removed the paint from the data plate of the motor:





I'd sprayed the motor down with G-O before I started cleaning the painted parts of the DP, so by the time I noticed, it was too late.

 

[FrankLee]

My first priority is to preserve the original paint when possible.

My process is to spray with Grez-Off, scrub with a small nail brush, rinse, dry and wax. I've tried several degreasers and found Grez-Off to work the best. It's more expensive than others, but the results are worth it, imo.
Examples:

Craftsman Drill Press

and a look of a machine that may have missed a preventative maintenance along the way ... That is very, very typical.

www.garagejournal.com

Craftsman Drill Press

Thanks Frank! I had no idea so many models had the cover as an option!

www.garagejournal.com

If a painted part is lightly rusted, I follow-up Grez-Off with Barkeepers Friend.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press.227480/post-11679613https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press.227480/post-11646252

Yeah, I should have mentioned above that I always(?) remove all badges and only use Meguiars Cleaner wax on badges.

 

[hpmachining]

My first priority is to preserve the original paint when possible.

That's what I'm trying to do, too. Thanks for all the links. Lots of good stuff there to look through.

only use Meguiars Cleaner wax on badges

I have some of that home. I'll give it a try.

I generally use the IPA to soften myself up a little.

With your user name, I would expect nothing less . I wasn't even thinking about beer when I posted. Thanks for all the pictures and warning.

That's how I turn scratched-up old stainless sheet metal into a nice, brushed finish. I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish instead of WD 40.

I'll have the give that a try. Is just the Scotch-Brite, Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish enough or do you use sandpaper first to get out deeper scratches?

 

[Beerhippie]

Is just the Scotch-Brite, Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish enough or do you use sandpaper first to get out deeper scratches?

Just the Scotch Brite (maroon) and Mother's on an ROS--and lots of elbow grease.

It's how I made this backsplash





out of boneyard scrap.

IIRC, I used about half a tub of Mother's on that.

 

[hpmachining]

@Beerhippie that looks great! Nice job salvaging a piece of scrap.

 

[hpmachining]

I acquired a bracket for my quill stop, but it's not in the best shape. I think it will still work well, at least for awhile, but the crack may eventually cause problems. I reverse engineered it as best I could and will probably make a replacement out of 6061 aluminum. I posted the 3D model on GRABCAD if anyone is interested.

 

[RoninB4]

I posted the 3D model on GRABCAD if anyone is interested.

-The image looks like it was modeled in SolidWorks?

 

[hpmachining]

-The image looks like it was modeled in SolidWorks?

I use Kubotek KeyCreator. I uploaded a STEP file to GRABCAD, so any 3D CAD system should be able to import it.

 

[RoninB4]

I use Kubotek KeyCreator. I uploaded a STEP file to GRABCAD, so any 3D CAD system should be able to import it.

-No intent to copy or use it, just professional curiosity. Have used several CAD programs on the job, had CADKEY back in the early 90's to use with a large Kuraki Hor-Bor. Model looks ok to me.

 

[hpmachining]

-No intent to copy or use it, just professional curiosity. Have used several CAD programs on the job, had CADKEY back in the early 90's to use with a large Kuraki Hor-Bor. Model looks ok to me.

CADKEY is what I started with back in the 90s, as well, when I moved from building to designing and programming plastic injection molds. What kind of work were you doing on that big machine?

 

[RoninB4]

CADKEY is what I started with back in the 90s, as well, when I moved from building to designing and programming plastic injection molds. What kind of work were you doing on that big machine?

-Large molds, core-n-cavity work. One of the last molds I cut was for one of those plastic dog igloo shelters. When the industry started going sideways around 1999 I took some CAD classes at the local college at the urging of a friend. I spent the last 17 years of my working career in mechanical design using various 3D CAD programs per contract. If I've understood your recent posts then I believe we've had a few similar work experiences. Hope you're doing well if you're still in the trenches.

 

[hpmachining]

Hope you're doing well if you're still in the trenches.

I've been out of the mold trade for years. I'm self employed now, doing job shop type work. I have 2 Mazak machining centers, a VTC-200B and a VCN-510C. Business has been slow for a bit, but hopefully it will pick up. Upside is I have more time to work on this type of stuff. Just curious, since you were working on molds in the 90s, have you ever heard of AcuCarv CAM software?

 

[RoninB4]

I've been out of the mold trade for years. I'm self employed now, doing job shop type work.

-Oh, so now everybody is your boss?

I have 2 Mazak machining centers, a VTC-200B and a VCN-510C. Business has been slow for a bit, but hopefully it will pick up.

-I'm getting a number of job postings for aerospace (rocket payload), at the usual launch locations. Something is being created. There also seems to be a regular openings for the TVA and nuclear work around here. Don't know if that helps, you might want to investigate.

Upside is I have more time to work on this type of stuff.

-I retired about 2 years ago and find I have more projects around the house than when I was working full time. My time management *****.

Just curious, since you were working on molds in the 90s, have you ever heard of AcuCarv CAM software?

-Haven't heard of it but that doesn't mean anything either. I spent about 15% of my career in molds, about 65% in stamping dies, and the last 20% in CAD design of dies/molds/tooling. My CNC experience started with tape feeders and a "bubble memory", went to XTree Gold, MDI line programming, and a short stint with Master Crash (Master Cam). I gravitated towards design because I stayed cleaner and it paid better. I still have a small, well equipped toolroom in the basement so I guess I'm just a shop donk at heart.

 

[hpmachining]

I picked up a set of NSK bearings in town for the spindle. I just noticed I bought C3 internal clearance. I can exchange them for normal clearance, if that would be better. Will that tiny amount of extra clearance make any difference for a drill press spindle? I need to go back to the distributor to pick up a bearing for the pulley, so it's won't be an extra hassle to exchange. I am more interested in knowing which one is actually the best one for the application.

 

[hpmachining]

The pulley bearing press fits on the sleeve, but is a slip fit in the pulley housing. Approximately .0015"/.002" clearance. You can see in the pictures that the outer sleeve moves when I rotate the sleeve. I was thinking I'd use 641 Loctite for this. Do you think that's the right tool for the job?

 

[RoninB4]

-I've seen the (green) bearing retainer used with success a few times but have no idea if the long term (years) holds up with an application like this. With a DP there's always to chance/likelihood of the cutter (twist drill, c'bore, c'sink, etc.) snagging in the cut and that torque transferring to the bearing pulley. Will that shear the chemical bond here? Who knows. The stuff is sold as a bearing retainer so it does work for continuous running. Your only other option is an additional mechanical lock on the bearing outer race, there's a couple of ways that can be accomplished but none of them as easily done as squeezing a bottle of goo. My approach to things? I try not to use modifications that are permanent (additional mechanical locks) unless the factory method has proved to be inadequate.

 

[FrankLee]

I use thread lockers and retaining compounds frequently.

Here are a couple applications similar to your situation.

I used just a drop of low strength thread locker in these two situations.


I'm not familiar with Loctite 641, but used 609 here:

Craftsman Drill Press

Packard Craftsman Motor 115.7556 - Part 3, Cleaning Painted Parts Vacuum any sawdust still on any parts. Scrub all painted parts with Grez-Off and small brushes. Use Barkeepers Friend if lightly rusted. Rinse and dry. Apply paste wax to all painted parts and buff. The end frame...

www.garagejournal.com

In all cases, I clean mating parts with acetone before assembling with a compound.

 

[hpmachining]

Thank you for the feedback.

I'm not familiar with Loctite 641, but used 609 here:

It looks like the 609 is a stronger bond, ~2300 psi shear strength vs ~940 psi, so the 641 is easier to remove. Since I have a bottle of 641 coming today, I think I'll try it instead of returning it. I'll mark it with a sharpie and check it after using for a bit and see if it's moving. If it does, I'll switch to the stronger 609.

I'm not going to worry about any retaining compound on the sleeve to the head. The sleeve has a tapped hole in the side that lines up with a clearance hole on the head and is used to hold the pulley cover in place. So between the light press and the bolt to keep it from rotating, that should be fine.

 

[FrankLee]

I have no doubt 641 will work fine and is better for your application.

I'll have to check my MSA above. It's been several years since I installed new bearings. I suspect that the one drop of purple locker per bearing is still holding tight.