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1990 F150 resto from hell.

e30bradley

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I haven't been posting my projects here like I used to.. I've been busy working on this pos truck.

This is pretty much what this project has turned into..

Remove crumpled parts (driver door, fender, rad support, d/s headlight)
strip interior and weld repair rust to factory specs.. (patch d/s floor, replace p/s rocker and lower a pillar, p/s floor to meet new rocker)
purchase new rad support, prime & paint
replace p/s fender and door because they are more work than they are worth,
repaint bed cheap because cust. didn't want to pay to make factory again (wheel well rust, dented/stretched/warped metal)
paint floors, inside and underneath
paint frame with urethane
replace shocks f & r
redo entire front steering system and all bushings
re-gasket entire engine (oil pan, t cover, oil galley, valve cvr, int. plenum,
refinish entire stripped cab to better than factory specs (higher quality paint products)
refinish all bolt on panels inside and out (doors, fenders, hood,)
much more..
I'm sick of writing already. Basically its a cab on frame restoration.

I haven't taken anywhere near as many photos as I should have.

this is how it looked when I got it.
















rusty floors.. Not bad by NJ standards. This truck came from Texas a while back and at some point sat for 6 years (in NJ).



















front end parts painted with urethane

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valve cover de-sludged and gasketed.

[URL=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/e30bradley/media/IMG_1605_zps5c15d217.jpg.html]


same for the oil galley cover/ pushrod cover



fenders and d/s door body work all done. Time to block out the primer.



had a spot I repaired a hair low. Is acrylic glazing putty okay? My friend says so but he's not up to date on paint technology.



driver's floor











painted in the cab mount before welding up. I didn't get a pic.





trans serviced and filter changed..



PASSENger side: I was going to patch but the rot went all the say to the front end of the rocker (under the a pillar)









found a parts truck with a really nice door.. Pulled the door and decided to cut a chunk of the truck off to use for the p/s



high build primer the second time around. 3 coats first time, 3 coats again. My ranger's tailgate is in the photo as well, that only got 2 coats. The more I do this, the less material I want to use.. Meaning I want to get the metal work better and block only ONCE with 3 coats, not spraying each panel twice.



paint mixing station.. I don't use that HF gun, haven't even cleaned the goop out of it that it comes with yet. I am using blue point HVLPs





The door I got had only two very minor dings and a little rust on the lower fold of the skin. The seam sealer got ground out, rust cleaned, etch primed, regular primed, and seam sealed. The drivers door was the same deal but seam sealer all around because it was done from bare metal.

 
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JeepsAreBuilt

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Looks like you are having fun !

For the question you had.. I use polyester glazing putty for low spots. It looks like you used spot putty ? Thats more like for filling in rock chips and small scratches.
 

Stooge

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Looks like some good work here! What are the end plans for it?

Everyone needs a hobby, nothing wrong with fixing up neglected trucks!
 

67carl

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So I have to ask: why? A quick search for 1990 F-150s and I find tons for sale in decent shape from $2k-$4k. As much work as your doing I would think the cost of repairs will far exceed that. Just wondering why the owner is doing this - sentimental?
 
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e30bradley

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Its not my truck.. Anyone who knows me would know I would never have a car with two pedals.. Err a truck with 3 pedals, gotta have 4! p-brake, clutch, brake, throttle. End plan is get it done and back to the owner and get MY ranger in here to do pretty much the same thing to it. To jeepsarebuilt: I have polyester glazing putty and I have since switched to it even for imperfections after primer. Usually I do filler then putty then prime.. But it was low after primer and I just got that tube of acrylic putty because my friend said thats what he used and then I started reading about it and it doesn't seem like great stuff by todays standards.
the spot that was glazed is probably 2 papers thick. It was a very minor low spot. I must have been in a hurry when I painted it because I don't usually overlook things like that. I'm pretty proud of that door though. It was thoroughly trashed. I'm done blocking the second application of primer and its nice just have wet sand with 400 now.
 
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e30bradley

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So I have to ask: why? A quick search for 1990 F-150s and I find tons for sale in decent shape from $2k-$4k. As much work as your doing I would think the cost of repairs will far exceed that. Just wondering why the owner is doing this - sentimental?

The guy who owns it seemed to have some sort of attachment to it.. Even though he let it sit and rot for 6 years.

The owner originally wanted it to have a new fender door and headlight and a quick CHEAP (think, rustoleum thinned down) paint job and then kept changing the job every damn week.. Next thing I know its a full blown resto and the guy has no money.

Not working on it until paid doesn't do me much good because working on it isn't the issue, I don't mind working on it I just need it done and gone so I can work on my own truck and my families fleet.. Starting another full time job tomorrow won't help me get this done though.
 
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bowtiepro3

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Hats off to the op for the effort, as it's not always in the budget to spend 2-4 k on a better one. Parts for these trucks are cheap and lots of good experience gained.
 

theoldwizard1

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My second daily driver is a 1998 E150. There are some body rust hole around the rear wheels and on the bottom edge of the sliding door. None through the floor that I know of.

I would like to get 3-5 more years out of it as the rest of it is in very good condition. It get driven less than 5K per year. In the past 5 years, I have replaced tires, brakes, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, muffler and several A/C components. Runs good and I get 19+ mpg on the highway (empty).
 
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e30bradley

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My third attempt at posting a comment, I'm using a Mac from 2001 that is about 98% full and safari quits all the time.. So annoying.

This cost much more than 2-4K but its not my truck so I don't care. I told the guy he would have more in it than its 'worth'.
HOTFR8, although it has some rust its nothing compared to most trucks this age that have lived in NJ there whole life. This truck came from Texas an unknown amount of time ago and then was used a while and sat 6 years and then about a year ago put back on the road in NJ.. Here are some pictures of my 1990 F-250 I had for comparison.










that was a one owner truck and it was well waxed... where it still had paint.

The owner of the truck I am working on decided I should stop working on the bed after I started because he didn't want to go through with repairing all the dents and the wheel well rust on both sides.. So I painted the bed with thinned down oil based alkyd enamel.

Questions about sanding primer:
I am using a solid color basecoat/ clearcoat. The tech sheet says sand wet or dry 400-600 grit. I think it says to DA sand 400-600 actually.. At school we only sanded to 400 grit wet. Is that good? I already took one fender to 600 grit but the other fender is at 400 and I just started sanding the door with 400.
 
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wafrederick

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My father's friend Tom,told him not to put his 1989 F150 back on the road a couple weeks ago.Frame is 90% rusted out behind where the radius arm goes into.Rusty cab and doors too.Going to the junkyard next although it still runs good.
 
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e30bradley

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yeah.. I hate rust. The truck I got the rocker from was a 2 owner truck. Second owner is a friend's brother who used it to plow. 30,*** miles, runs like new, frame is rotted well beyond being safe.

more paint questions:

I have primed and blocked the door twice now. Its been wet sanded to 400 grit and I have a few bare metal spots on edges (VERY small). I have been using dupont quickprime on spots such as these but the stuff is stupid expensive and I'm almost out. ~$32 for a 14oz can!! What if I just sealed the door with an epoxy sealer before spraying the base wet on wet? would I have to seal everything so it looks uniform? Will this make it more orange peely? right now the thing is slick as glass..
 

Nor'Easter

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Truck Country in Willimantic, CT sells california cabs with doors for $1000... dash and everything included. Less the doors they are $600.


Just FYI the next time you do a truck like this.
 
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e30bradley

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I have more photos I could add but this job is done. The owner (his terms) was supposed to put $500 towards the truck each weekend.. He hasn't paid me a dime since the Third of October. All the while he has been assuring me every time I talk to him that he'll be dropping off money the next day or some other b.s. I called him today and told him I was done being jerked around and to pay off what is in it right now and get his truck and pile of parts out of here.. I really wanted to see this come together but 5 weeks without pay is not acceptable. I doubt the guy can even pay the difference between whats in it and what he has paid. I don't want to own this truck..
 
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Noland

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Looks like you are having fun !

For the question you had.. I use polyester glazing putty for low spots. It looks like you used spot putty ? Thats more like for filling in rock chips and small scratches.

yes do this, your repair will last much longer. polyester glaze like dolphin glaze by upol wont crack from the sun because it is activated by hardner. spot putty is know for cracking in the sun because its just air drys then it lets all the weather get in under the repair and makes a big rust scab eventually.

Good luck on your project looks like it coming out well.
 

mmack66

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I have more photos I could add but this job is done. The owner (his terms) was supposed to put $500 towards the truck each weekend.. He hasn't paid me a dime since the Third of October. All the while he has been assuring me every time I talk to him that he'll be dropping off money the next day or some other b.s. I called him today and told him I was done being jerked around and to pay me off even and get his truck and pile of parts out of here.. I really wanted to see this come together but 5 weeks without pay is not acceptable. I doubt the guy can even pay the difference between whats in it and what hes paid. I don't want to own this truck..

Sounds like you are going to own that truck.
 
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e30bradley

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I don't know what to do.. I have a feeling the guy is just never going to pay me. I wouldn't have done this to this truck if it where mine from the start. I have so much time and money in this truck and the guy hasn't even paid what the parts and supplies cost yet. I'm done working on it but the rocker is fitted and tacked in place..
 

-Brent-

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These situations ****.

I'd attempt to get the title. If you can get it, sell the truck, pay yourself and give him what's left over.
 

CJM8515

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Take it up with the court and contact the police. Might be able to help.

Where are you in NJ? Some towns are better than others in situations like this.
 
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e30bradley

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These situations ****.

I'd attempt to get the title. If you can get it, sell the truck, pay yourself and give him what's left over.

I'd have to finish the job to be able to sell the truck. I would also lose mega money.. I might be able to cover parts and materials cost but the truck (with brand new cooper tires, alternator, battery, etc) and all my labor would be free. I'm just stuck.. I want the truck gone but I wont give it to the owner until he pays up which I don't think he'll do. I really need my garage space back so i can work on my own projects. :sad:
 

-Brent-

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Take it up with the court and contact the police. Might be able to help.

Where are you in NJ? Some towns are better than others in situations like this.

I'm betting this is an off-the-books cash job, without a written contract, there's little that "authorities" could do, I'd assume.
 

-Brent-

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Sell the parts.

Why in the world would you buy tires for the vehicle with your own money?
 

Nor'Easter

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You currently have a vehicle owned by someone who has the title in there possession. Without a written contract you have no proof that you didn't steal it beyond the photos.


Sticky situation.
 

countryroad82

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Ugh looks like I should have stepped in at the beginning as I was afraid of this happening. First, looks like you were doing a good job. As for your sanding questions, driver quality= 400 sanding, show quality=600-800 depending on the color. Your question about primer, yes the DuPont (now Axalta) is friggin' expensive! You can get by with just sealing the edges where you sanded through, just make sure you have sealer over it or your basecoat will take forever to cover it up.

Now for the life lesson. From what I remember your a younger buck, I remember these days well as I started painting cars around 16 or 17. I used to not require any payment until the customer picked the car up, I was young and dumb. I got jerked around a few times I'll tell you the story of 2 that sticks out in my mind and what I did to recover my money, trust me there are plenty more but these may cheer you up.

War story 1. I had an ex-co-worker that had an S10 he wanted cab corners, rockers, and a paint job. When I worked with him at Autozone we were pretty tight and I gave him 'a buddy deal' (never do these unless it's someone you wouldn't care if they slept with your wife after your dead). So I worked my a$$ off fixing and painting the POS, laid out a very nice white paint job with pearl in the clear, sanded and buffed it till it shined like a new penny. My 'buddy' comes to pick up his truck and he only has about half of what we agreed on. I let him take the truck like an idiot.
I spent months tracking him down and getting sob stories until one day I caught him at work (still him working at Autozone) I walked in, grabbed a few cans of paint stripper and told HIM to ring me up. As he was ringing me up he asked what I was stripping and I just stated MY PAINT OFF YOUR TRUCK IF I DONT GET MY MONEY BEFORE I WALK OUT THIS DOOR! Anyway I get another sob story and I just said that's fine, finish ringing me up and we'll be even..... Needless to say he realized I was serious and somehow some way he coughed up the cash..... Damn even after all these years I just got mad thinking about it.

Horror story 2. This one is both sad and hilarious all at the same time. Refurbished a '67 Olds 442 for a douch that wouldn't pay up. He got his bill as I put new metal in, stripped it to bare steel, brought it back up, and painted it the wrong color (originally blue, he wanted it marroon iky). I handed him the bill and he was like man that sounds like a loan! My stomach flipped because he ASSURED me he could pay me even though I would tell him periodically where we were at money wise. So fast forward a few months in limbo until I got the courts involved, the court awarded me the car that I didn't want.

I hated that I got stuck with the thing and decided I would make an example of this car one night while talking to Captan Morgan. The ol' Cap gave me the orders/idea 'hey the ex-owner is a big time dirt track racer, show his buddies and the world you ain't kidding when you say you are serious about money!' So what do I do? Gut the interior, build a cage, pull the glass, and weld the doorskins back on...... THATS RIGHT WE WENT RACIN'!!! While I hate myself now it was a good idea at the time. I went into the pits and told everyone this is the first and last time this car will run, beat me to death because I'm gonna hit you! Made it to the feature in bombers until I got black flagged because I may or may not have caused a bigger accident than expected. I even had the announcer tell over the speakers the story about why the beautiful 442 was going to die that night. And die it did! There wasn't a straight panel left on it, and it also proved I don't use much body filler on a car. I pulled the Muncie and sold the rest to a guy that actually managed to make a decent car out of it, even after the horror of the dirt track. Ahh they don't make 'me like they used to!

Alright story 3 and I'll shut up. This one is a happy ending. '56 Chevy, full blown resto, it was beautiful. Guy says he didn't think I would have the car done as fast as I did and he didn't have the money, I freak out. But we agree that he isn't attached to the car let's sell it to pay me and he can get the rest. This was when people were going crazy with their money so it was a great time to sell. The car sold no problem, made enough to pay me and the owner not only made his investment back but he made profit, which he split with me because he felt bad for dicking me around...... And plus he heard about the Olds....... I have since done a few cars for him.

With all that said, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE LET THAT TRUCK LEAVE YOUR PROPERTY!!!
 
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e30bradley

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Sell the parts.

Why in the world would you buy tires for the vehicle with your own money?

the parts aren't worth much at all.. I have parted one of these truck before and still have much of what is for sale.

The owner bought the tires before I ever met him. I was just saying that the truck would have to be completed to sell it and I would get MAYBE $5500.. Thats a huge loss.
 
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e30bradley

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countryroad82 great stories!!! especially the first one! I am using nason high build urethane primer. I have about 3 quarts left, when thats gone I am going to start trying some other brands primers. Maybe Kirker, I just used some kirker ss urethane and I like it. I'll get some epoxy to use as a sealer.
 
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countryroad82

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Brent, thanks for the new sig!

E30bradley while I haven't had much experience with Kirker products (only the paint and it seemed like a nice product) it should be fine with DuPont/Nason products. I like to use Nason 2k urethane primer and their sealers myself as it is readily available to me in my area and I haven't had any problems. Hope my experience may help you in the future. And good luck with the truck fiasco.
 

metalhead212121

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e30bradley- Ive read a lot of your posts but don't comment much. When I first saw this thread I was thinking that it had the potential to go down hill fast. Sadly.. it happened. I'm pretty sure you don't have a leg to stand on IF the guy comes with the local PD and says he wants his car back. There's right and wrong AND what people can and cant LEGALLY do. Even if you did have a contract written up just realize that if you went to court to fight it out its going to cost YOU money (legal fees) AND time.

While I applaud you for your efforts sometimes you have to think about worst case situations before you dive into stuff like this. :sad:
 
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e30bradley

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The owner came here to have a meeting last week. More than two hours late he was. Then we 'talked' for about an hour. As far as business talk gos he basically told me he won't give me any money but he would give me the title. At the time I told him no but called back the next day and said I would accept it.. of course he was 'running out the door' at the time so i told him to call me when he gets home and that I will come get the title. He said ok. Ever since he's been ignoring/avoiding me. ANyway!

onto the truck.. I can't remember all the **** I've done to this thing but I'll post pics and write about changes I will make when it becomes mine.



Finally got the p/s I beam in and put the front end together.



I don't like pulling windshields so I had my glass guy come cut it out.


found some rust, no rot.






P/S rocker done, not perfect but I'm not looking for perfection with this vehicle.


I don't do autos. This is going in here with a new clutch assembly, flywheel, TOB, slave, master, pilot, and hose... ZF S5-42 from my 89 F-250


p/s A pillar


The hood is bent pretty good.


Three cuts here


Pounded it out and hit it with 80 grit on the DA to prep for filler. I'll hang the fender before I use filler to make sure its right.. Of course the new radiator support needs to be primed, painted, and installed before I can do that... And the engine has to come out and go back in before I can do that..


I ran around yesterday trying to find a piece of light guage angle iron to make the parts that holds the weatherstrip in the door jamb but couldn't find one so I had to cut it off one of the patch panels I bought. I am using the awesome air drill that was gifted to me by a GJ member a few years ago for SS.



Used a piece of galvanized steel I had. I think its 18 gauge. **** welded.


tacks


Done



I DA sanded the remaining paint on the floor with 120 grit to prep before using rustoleum latex primer. I have never used this primer before but its made for use on galvanized steel. Usually I use the red rust primer on everything. (everything I paint w/ rusto)



Primed inside and underneath. Here you can see the frame is nicely painted.. I used chassis saver on it.. Never used one of those fancy 'rust paints' before this job.
I would say chassis saver is good but I don't think its any better than any other urethane paint. Now if I wasn't a regular user of urethane automotive paint I might think its amazing but I really think any cheap ss urethane sprayed over the same surface would be.. the same.







Seam sealed once the primer dried.


This is how it sits now. One coat of color inside and out. I'll do another tomorrow.
 
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