e30bradley
Well-known member
I haven't been posting my projects here like I used to.. I've been busy working on this pos truck.
This is pretty much what this project has turned into..
Remove crumpled parts (driver door, fender, rad support, d/s headlight)
strip interior and weld repair rust to factory specs.. (patch d/s floor, replace p/s rocker and lower a pillar, p/s floor to meet new rocker)
purchase new rad support, prime & paint
replace p/s fender and door because they are more work than they are worth,
repaint bed cheap because cust. didn't want to pay to make factory again (wheel well rust, dented/stretched/warped metal)
paint floors, inside and underneath
paint frame with urethane
replace shocks f & r
redo entire front steering system and all bushings
re-gasket entire engine (oil pan, t cover, oil galley, valve cvr, int. plenum,
refinish entire stripped cab to better than factory specs (higher quality paint products)
refinish all bolt on panels inside and out (doors, fenders, hood,)
much more..
I'm sick of writing already. Basically its a cab on frame restoration.
I haven't taken anywhere near as many photos as I should have.
this is how it looked when I got it.
rusty floors.. Not bad by NJ standards. This truck came from Texas a while back and at some point sat for 6 years (in NJ).
front end parts painted with urethane
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valve cover de-sludged and gasketed.
[URL=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/e30bradley/media/IMG_1605_zps5c15d217.jpg.html]
same for the oil galley cover/ pushrod cover
fenders and d/s door body work all done. Time to block out the primer.
had a spot I repaired a hair low. Is acrylic glazing putty okay? My friend says so but he's not up to date on paint technology.
driver's floor
painted in the cab mount before welding up. I didn't get a pic.
trans serviced and filter changed..
PASSENger side: I was going to patch but the rot went all the say to the front end of the rocker (under the a pillar)
found a parts truck with a really nice door.. Pulled the door and decided to cut a chunk of the truck off to use for the p/s
high build primer the second time around. 3 coats first time, 3 coats again. My ranger's tailgate is in the photo as well, that only got 2 coats. The more I do this, the less material I want to use.. Meaning I want to get the metal work better and block only ONCE with 3 coats, not spraying each panel twice.
paint mixing station.. I don't use that HF gun, haven't even cleaned the goop out of it that it comes with yet. I am using blue point HVLPs
The door I got had only two very minor dings and a little rust on the lower fold of the skin. The seam sealer got ground out, rust cleaned, etch primed, regular primed, and seam sealed. The drivers door was the same deal but seam sealer all around because it was done from bare metal.
This is pretty much what this project has turned into..
Remove crumpled parts (driver door, fender, rad support, d/s headlight)
strip interior and weld repair rust to factory specs.. (patch d/s floor, replace p/s rocker and lower a pillar, p/s floor to meet new rocker)
purchase new rad support, prime & paint
replace p/s fender and door because they are more work than they are worth,
repaint bed cheap because cust. didn't want to pay to make factory again (wheel well rust, dented/stretched/warped metal)
paint floors, inside and underneath
paint frame with urethane
replace shocks f & r
redo entire front steering system and all bushings
re-gasket entire engine (oil pan, t cover, oil galley, valve cvr, int. plenum,
refinish entire stripped cab to better than factory specs (higher quality paint products)
refinish all bolt on panels inside and out (doors, fenders, hood,)
much more..
I'm sick of writing already. Basically its a cab on frame restoration.
I haven't taken anywhere near as many photos as I should have.
this is how it looked when I got it.
rusty floors.. Not bad by NJ standards. This truck came from Texas a while back and at some point sat for 6 years (in NJ).
front end parts painted with urethane
[/URLvalve cover de-sludged and gasketed.
[URL=http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/e30bradley/media/IMG_1605_zps5c15d217.jpg.html]
same for the oil galley cover/ pushrod cover
fenders and d/s door body work all done. Time to block out the primer.
had a spot I repaired a hair low. Is acrylic glazing putty okay? My friend says so but he's not up to date on paint technology.
driver's floor
painted in the cab mount before welding up. I didn't get a pic.
trans serviced and filter changed..
PASSENger side: I was going to patch but the rot went all the say to the front end of the rocker (under the a pillar)
found a parts truck with a really nice door.. Pulled the door and decided to cut a chunk of the truck off to use for the p/s
high build primer the second time around. 3 coats first time, 3 coats again. My ranger's tailgate is in the photo as well, that only got 2 coats. The more I do this, the less material I want to use.. Meaning I want to get the metal work better and block only ONCE with 3 coats, not spraying each panel twice.
paint mixing station.. I don't use that HF gun, haven't even cleaned the goop out of it that it comes with yet. I am using blue point HVLPs
The door I got had only two very minor dings and a little rust on the lower fold of the skin. The seam sealer got ground out, rust cleaned, etch primed, regular primed, and seam sealed. The drivers door was the same deal but seam sealer all around because it was done from bare metal.
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