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2016 Garage Sale Thread

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Private Lugnutz

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Outlaw,
Thanks for the pics. I'm thinking the gaffs on the climbers in the figure in the manual I posted, the museum pics in the links I posted, and my recently found examples all look the same. I don't know if they'd be identified as tree gaffs or pole gaffs, but they all look the same. None of those (manual, museum, mine) are as widely spaced from the climber shank as the tree gaffs in your pic 1. But they're considerably longer than the pole gaffs in your pic 2.
 

Private Lugnutz

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20160919_200448_zpsagcfvk5r.jpg
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Got a call from a guy who was given my card. I picked up all this for $95. I paid 90 for the 1938 Take Away sander. All I need now is a manual....
 

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joe.striper

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Jakey, i knew youd see that. Yeah it is f'in loud...holy **** it is loud. The 8 year old in me bought it.

Younguns, one hammer is US made and it is beryllium. The two big ones are brass, Chinese I think, but at $5 each I'm not complaining. I'll take better shots of the vises tomorrow. I pd $3 or 4 bucks each for those....
 

drivesitfar

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Joe: yep cool stuff for certain. i think Outlaw is mentioning the little Jeweler's or salesman sample anvil and is it brass or do tell? also you might already know this, but DON'T GRIND THE BERLINIUM HAMMER BECAUSE THE DUST IS TOXIC. i don't see why you would but just in case you wanted to clean it up with a grinder please don't.

OUTLAW AND LUG: interesting pics on the different styles of spurs. i sold mine a few years ago, but only used them a few times.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Lug, what did you use to clean those climbers?
Toilet bowl cleaner.

If you try it, make sure you get the kind with 9.5% HCL. The eco-friendly brands will not work. Depending on the size of the tool and the extent of the rust, either fully immerse and flip (less than a minute will do on most old tools) or slather it on. It's thick, so it clings. For the most stubborn rust, you may need to scrub it on with a soft abrasive (scotch pad, 0000 steel wool, etc). You need to rinse very thoroughly with cold water immediately, dry it thoroughly with a shop rag immediately, and apply oil (I like WD-40) and/or wax immediately. The stripped bare steel tool will develop a very thin and dusty layer of oxidation quickly otherwise. I like to scrub again with a different set of steel wool and WD-40, wipe clean, then oil again and let it sit.

If you don't wear gloves, it will sting a little in any cuts etc on your hands, but it's not so strong (like pool cleaner, etc) that you have to worry about real burns or fumes, etc.

The first time I tried it I will admit it felt a little ignoble to use on these classic relics. I got over that right quick when I saw the results. Easily the quickest, cheapest, simplest method I have ever used, and that includes e-tanks (disassembled years ago), vinegar, molasses, and Evaporust.
 

Username already in use

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It's been a while since I checked in on this thread. You guys are killing it! :drool:

I had a decent bit of luck at the flea on Sunday.
A couple of male/male 1/2" drive extensions
Craftsman (U) extension, BE speeder ($1 ea)
Wizard 1/4" drive breaker ($1)
SK and SnapOn sockets ($0.50 ea.)
Big Vlchek DBE 1-1/8" x 1-1/16" ($0.50)
Long handle PROTO 1/2" drive ratchet ($5)
Big PROTO L.A. DOE 1-1/8"x1" ($1)
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And the big blue socket box in the background... That's all OTC (Owatonna) ($15)
:rocker:

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joe.striper

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Outlaw, younguns et al.... here are follow up pics.

I got a bit of a surprise on the small vises. One was a Craftsman and the other a Starrett Defiance. So VERY happy about that. Yes the other two are Colton patent vises. If anyone wants those I will move them out pretty cheaply. Trying to pay for my Porter Cable B10 sander I bought for vise restoration use.

The little anvil is cute isn't it?
 

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Private Lugnutz

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And the big blue socket box in the background... That's all OTC (Owatonna)
Jack-fuggin'-pot, UNAIU!

The handles and extensions look to be plain steel finish. As for the sox, from here it looks as if the bases are rough finished and the walls are either plated or polished. Can you tell which? (If plated, I would not hesitate to put that set in a GMTK and call it either transitional early or late war, but I am curious.)
 
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Username already in use

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Jack-fuggin'-pot, UNAIU!

The handles and extensions look to be plain steel finish. As for the sox, from here it looks as if the bases are rough finished and the walls are either plated or polished. Can you tell which? (If plated, I would not hesitate to put that set in a GMTK and call it either transitional early or late war, but I am curious.)
Lugz, The sockets are bright chrome plated all the way down. The breaker bar isn't the same that we've seen and is also chrome plated. I'm thinking it's an immediate post war set with some wartime pieces. The ratchet is the push through type that only ratchets in one direction. As you noticed, the ratchet and the extensions are plain steel.
Username :drool: over the OTC set
Thanks 3bay! I was very happy to find it.
 

Private Lugnutz

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The ratchet is the push through type that only ratchets in one direction.
That would be a pre-war vestige as seen in the specs in pre-war and early war manuals, before they updated it to reversible. Which means the different breaker bar could be early, too. The box looks post-war, but you could have a mixed vintage set there as you suspect. Either way, nice set.
 

racinfarmer

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It's been a while since I checked in on this thread. You guys are killing it! :drool:

I had a decent bit of luck at the flea on Sunday.
A couple of male/male 1/2" drive extensions
Craftsman (U) extension, BE speeder ($1 ea)
Wizard 1/4" drive breaker ($1)
SK and SnapOn sockets ($0.50 ea.)
Big Vlchek DBE 1-1/8" x 1-1/16" ($0.50)
Long handle PROTO 1/2" drive ratchet ($5)
Big PROTO L.A. DOE 1-1/8"x1" ($1)
attachment.php


And the big blue socket box in the background... That's all OTC (Owatonna) ($15)
:rocker:

attachment.php


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attachment.php

I have one of those H-160 roto ratchets. Haven't used it yet, but it is neat to see another one pop up.
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Picked this up today: Getstner box no door, with machinist tools, 5" starret vise, 4" reed swivel jaw, exact clamps, rr track anvil, battery charger.coolest thing, a Tesa inside micrometer.
 

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bulletpruf

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San Antonio
Picked this up today: Getstner box no door, with machinist tools, 5" starret vise, 4" reed swivel jaw, exact clamps, rr track anvil, battery charger.coolest thing, a Tesa inside micrometer.

Nice haul, Joe! Prior owner had good taste in tools. What brand are the outside mic's?
 

Private Lugnutz

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20160921_085213_resized_zpsoszjsriw.jpg


The set of four (4) mud hook chains are marked with patent 1,879,584 (Sep 1932) and "6.00 - 6.20 - 6.50". Canvas straps are vintage OD and they have brass rivets. No mfgr.

K-D No. 205 battery strap.

The odd DBE with the intentionally lopsided offsets is a vintage BLACKHAWK 2675 (3/4 x 5/8).

The speeder is an INDESTRO MFG CO.

The combination wrench that has been butchered for clearance on the open end is a wartime Plomb 2012 with a plain steel finish.

The 4-inch bit is also wartime Plomb, a screw extractor marked "DRILL 13/32 9525" and "PAT NO. 1,875,484".
 

2oolhound

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Outlaw,
Thanks for the pics. I'm thinking the gaffs on the climbers in the figure in the manual I posted, the museum pics in the links I posted, and my recently found examples all look the same. I don't know if they'd be identified as tree gaffs or pole gaffs, but they all look the same. None of those (manual, museum, mine) are as widely spaced from the climber shank as the tree gaffs in your pic 1. But they're considerably longer than the pole gaffs in your pic 2.

Gaffs get sharpened so they get short.*@#$Klein was the only company I knew that made replaceable gaffs. Most other makers made one piece spurs. All you have to do is look at a fir tree that is 4' in diameter or bigger to see how deep the crevices are in the bark to understand why the tree gaffs reach out so far. Tree gaffs are 2 1/2" - 3" long whereas pole gaffs are under 2" usually but I don't think there is an actual industry standard designation. Kickouts (when the bark or wood around the spur breaks away) occur easier on bark than wood so tree spurs often point more outward. If you have to work bowl-legged to keep your spurs in, your legs will tire very fast. The closer the spur is to your leg the easier it is on your legs for stamina. I think Lug's spurs are pole spurs but long enough to work in bark or sap wood if necessary.
 

Private Lugnutz

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I think Lug's spurs are pole spurs but long enough to work in bark or sap wood if necessary.
Thanks, 2oolhound. This explanation makes sense and is what I was getting at with the dual-purpose (pole/tree) environment Signal Corps linemen and/or Combat Engineers would work in. (Or it could just be wishful thinking to self-rationalize these into vintage military vs vintage telco/forestry service... :evil:)
 

2oolhound

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Thanks, 2oolhound. This explanation makes sense and is what I was getting at with the dual-purpose (pole/tree) environment Signal Corps linemen and/or Combat Engineers would work in. (Or it could just be wishful thinking to self-rationalize these into vintage military vs vintage telco/forestry service... :evil:)

I'd agree they would be the obvious choice for Signal Corps linemen and/or Combat Engineers but probably not a determining factor as they should have been available to all users as well in that length.
 

Ole Slewfoot

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Freedom, CA
Picked this up free at the dump, it was stuck, but after a few whacks, now its not

20160920_132829_zpsfiqsoux4.jpg


Tag missing anyone recognize?
Once was sprayed gold over gray paint.
 

Craptain

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Tampa Bay FL
Just picked this up from Freecycle. All works except the timer but if I can't fix it that is no big deal.
5ba057b08a2eb70db24635c34f6fe41e.jpg


Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Thanks, this looks like a cousin at the very least
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=9312
the bearing spin well, but are pretty noisy, I'll tear it down to see.
It vibrates a good bit, but the knotty wheel is in terrible shape.

Many of these grinders post ww2 were made by a few Companies. Wissota made for Milwaukee and others. Both my 10" Baldors are labeled as Delta Rockwell....know the shape and you will learn to identify them from 20 feet.
 

Rileysan

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Many of these grinders post ww2 were made by a few Companies. Wissota made for Milwaukee and others. Both my 10" Baldors are labeled as Delta Rockwell....know the shape and you will learn to identify them from 20 feet.

Blue Point is another company that rebrands Wissota grinders.

Nice find!

Brian
 
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