2020 Garage Sale Thread

[LesserSon]

Lugz mentioned darkening brass with vinegar a while back, and today I had cause to check it out. I was cleaning layers of crud off some 1-1/2” brass hinges (yes, garage sale acquisitions, though not recent). There was dirt, grease, paint, rust (on the steel pins), and on this one, verdigris. I popped it into some white vinegar for an hour and what I think happened to make areas turn pink is loss of zinc. The pink copper will probably turn a darker, or faster, brown than the yellow brass.
I cleaned the calcium crust out of a garden hose nozzle with vinegar a few days ago, too. (Allentown’s water supply comes from a calcium-rich aquifer, unlike Bethlehem’s soft surface water source.)
I have been hesitant to add salt. As a child, I found a thin dime that was pretty corroded from long burial in soil. My grandmother enthusiastically submerged it in a vinegar-salt bath, and to my eyes, dissolved most of it away. Looking back, I suppose most of the silver was already lost, but the trauma remains.

 

[Jumpman-Z]

Tuesday I answered an ad in Offerup for a large fireproof cabinet. Fortunately, I figured out what I was getting into, and brought a loading ramp, appliance dolly, a come-along, and plenty of rigging. It is 43" wide, 18-1/2" deep, and 65" tall, and quite heavy. I had to drag it across a gravel lot because the seller had an inoperable vehicle blocking access, then winch it up into the pickup on the ramp with the dolly laying on its back. The listing said "free" but when I called he said there had been several calls, and "the first $40.00 takes it."

Someone had pried it open in the past. I had to do some straightening to repair that, and secured some loose spot welds with sheet metal screws. Overall, not too bad!

Nice score on the flame cabinet, even for $40, that's a steal. Looks to be in good condition overall. You're right about them being quite heavy. A little awkward on a dolly, too.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I've sold a bit of my estate sale surplus on duhBay and I can see a little more daylight in the abode!

I've been selling a few things on fleaBay lately, too, and it reminds me why I don't do it more often.

For example, this recent exchange...

I have a matching set of 4 DBE wrenches for sale for $35. Somebody contacted me and said they only needed one of them to complete a collection, but they'd pay $20 for the lot just to get that one. I told him that as a collector I know the feeling well, and that I would like to help him out. I said I'd meet him half way at $27.50. He tried to talk me down to $25. Couldn't hit REJECT OFFER fast enough. Two days go by. He contacts me again, saying he would pay full price ($12) on a ball-pein hammer I am also selling if I sell him the 4 DBE wrenches for $25 and put them in the same box. I resisted the reply in my head (Wow! What a deal! You'll buy something else from me for the asking price and take advantage of a routinely offered combined shipping and I only have to agree to reduce the price of something you really want but can't seem to kick in just $2.50 more to the price I already reduced it to?) and went with the curt "No thanks" instead.

Lugz mentioned darkening brass with vinegar a while back...

I didn't say anything about darkening as I recall. And the solution was vinegar and salt. It will add patina to new copper or brass and return it to copper or brass that has been stripped shiny clean. I think I said it will discolor it. EDIT: Yes, see here.

 

[Jack84]

My 70,- marketplace haul.

 

[Outlawmws]

Wow, those vises need cross posted in the Vises thread.

 

[Jack84]

Wow, those vises need cross posted in the Vises thread.

Too late, already sold the three on the left for 90,-.


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[Private Lugnutz]

Even though this is all completely anonymous, for karma's sake, I have to report that the fleaBay buyer in my anecdote above came through. He bought the DBE wrench set at my offer price, and the hammer and a third item at full price. Maybe he's reading GJ! If so, dude, it's all good. I was just venting.

 

[LesserSon]

I didn't say anything about darkening as I recall. And the solution was vinegar and salt. It will add patina to new copper or brass and return it to copper or brass that has been stripped shiny clean. I think I said it will discolor it. EDIT: Yes, see here.

Quibbler.
You are correct about not saying “darken,” and I apologize for misrepresenting your intentions. I purposely did not attempt a direct quote because I did not recall your exact words. On behalf of my suborning memory, though, I am not familiar with a surface state of brass that could be simultaneously termed patinated and NOT also be darker than clean new bright brass...unless the hue can change from yellow to green without also changing in value.
My “irrationale” (if you will) for not using salt is twofold: the dime anecdote, plus I do not want any trace of salt residue getting on the steel pins.
I am happy for you selling on eBay.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Hey no worries. I was just clarifying!

 

[steaks&anvils]

Lugz mentioned darkening brass with vinegar a while back, and today I had cause to check it out. I was cleaning layers of crud off some 1-1/2” brass hinges (yes, garage sale acquisitions, though not recent). There was dirt, grease, paint, rust (on the steel pins), and on this one, verdigris. I popped it into some white vinegar for an hour and what I think happened to make areas turn pink is loss of zinc. The pink copper will probably turn a darker, or faster, brown than the yellow brass.
I cleaned the calcium crust out of a garden hose nozzle with vinegar a few days ago, too. (Allentown’s water supply comes from a calcium-rich aquifer, unlike Bethlehem’s soft surface water source.)
I have been hesitant to add salt. As a child, I found a thin dime that was pretty corroded from long burial in soil. My grandmother enthusiastically submerged it in a vinegar-salt bath, and to my eyes, dissolved most of it away. Looking back, I suppose most of the silver was already lost, but the trauma remains.

Not sure if this will work on brass, try ammonia (plain old cleaning type) to darken the surface. In a closed container, suspend the brass above the liquid ammonia, so that it gets "fumed" by the vapors. Let this sit for a few hours or days as needed. Use a clear container so you can see it's progress, if you have to keep opening it to check the progress, the fumes will escape. I suppose sitting it in the sun or a warm place will speed the process.

I use this on new sterling silver beads to get that "aged look" when repairing old beaded jewelry or trying to match a replacement lost earring. Not the black tarnished oxidation, but the gray color old pieces get.

 

[LesserSon]

Staying at home, I have more than one iron in the fire.
I had posted this early 1960s Dremel model3 243 MotoTool a while back (maybe last year). It turns, IIRC, but the power cord sheathing is crumbling away.
I thought to take it apart to replace the cord, but after removing the brushes, the collet, a plastic housing screw and a shaft set screw, It simply doesn’t come apart. The body is not the clamshell design of modern Dremels, but a tube with two endcaps, both if which turn slightly, but do not screw off nor pull straight in any position I have tried.
And of course, I have no owner’s manual - the only thing that didn’t come with it. The Dremel website boasts plenty of manuals for their current/recent tools, but I don’t see any going back this far. If only it was from the 1950s, I think those had visible means of attachment.
DOES ANYONE HAVE A MANUAL OR KNOW HOW TO TAKE THIS PUZZLE APART?

 

[Shiftless]

Too late, already sold the three on the left for 90,-.


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I would have paid more, but shipping would have been a KILLER!

 

[Outlawmws]

LS - is that a set screw on the nose holding it onto the bearing/shaft of the armature?

 

[chrismenke]

I would have paid more, but shipping would have been a KILLER!

Round trip to Europe from SFO is probably, like what, 3-4 bucks right now?

 

[bmwrd0]

Staying at home, I have more than one iron in the fire.
I had posted this early 1960s Dremel model3 243 MotoTool a while back (maybe last year). It turns, IIRC, but the power cord sheathing is crumbling away.
I thought to take it apart to replace the cord, but after removing the brushes, the collet, a plastic housing screw and a shaft set screw, It simply doesn’t come apart. The body is not the clamshell design of modern Dremels, but a tube with two endcaps, both if which turn slightly, but do not screw off nor pull straight in any position I have tried.
And of course, I have no owner’s manual - the only thing that didn’t come with it. The Dremel website boasts plenty of manuals for their current/recent tools, but I don’t see any going back this far. If only it was from the 1950s, I think those had visible means of attachment.
DOES ANYONE HAVE A MANUAL OR KNOW HOW TO TAKE THIS PUZZLE APART?

I have an old wood case one, and I too would love to have this info. It sits, dead, and I cannot take it apart far enough to trace any fault. Drives me nuts.

 

[bmwrd0]

OK, so things are starting to move out here! I was up early yesterday, and while checking Craigslist for bicycles, I saw what I thought would be a good parts bike for one of my projects (3-wheeler) Emailed, and he agreed to meet in an hour. (necessary because it was about 45min away. Anyway, get there, and was pleasantly surprised by the bike:

Its a Schwinn American from about 1960, the bars and seat are wrong, but it is mostly complete with original, albeit rusty, paint. I can't decide now if I should use it for a parts bike, or refurbish it. $50.

After that, and while looking for a restroom, I drove past a used tool dealer I know of, and saw a sign he was open. Well, can't pass that up these days! And here I found the following:

And to put them in:

5 for each ratchet (and the New Britian is loose), while 15 for the Bell bag.

 

[LesserSon]

LS - is that a set screw on the nose holding it onto the bearing/shaft of the armature?

Yes. I’m sorry to mislead - I put it back on so I wouldn’t lose it before taking the picture. Taking it off didn’t help. Actually, I’m not at all sure what it DOES.

I have an old wood case one, and I too would love to have this info. It sits, dead, and I cannot take it apart far enough to trace any fault. Drives me nuts.

The wood-case ones I think are 1950s? I had thought they’d be easier. Guess not.

 

[Davefr]

Staying at home, I have more than one iron in the fire.
I had posted this early 1960s Dremel model3 243 MotoTool a while back (maybe last year). It turns, IIRC, but the power cord sheathing is crumbling away.
I thought to take it apart to replace the cord, but after removing the brushes, the collet, a plastic housing screw and a shaft set screw, It simply doesn’t come apart. The body is not the clamshell design of modern Dremels, but a tube with two endcaps, both if which turn slightly, but do not screw off nor pull straight in any position I have tried.
And of course, I have no owner’s manual - the only thing that didn’t come with it. The Dremel website boasts plenty of manuals for their current/recent tools, but I don’t see any going back this far. If only it was from the 1950s, I think those had visible means of attachment.
DOES ANYONE HAVE A MANUAL OR KNOW HOW TO TAKE THIS PUZZLE APART?

Remove the two fasteners from the tail cap and pull the tail cap away and you should be able to replace the cord.

 

[LesserSon]

Remove the two fasteners from the tail cap and pull the tail cap away and you should be able to replace the cord.

Yes, I’d like to. I spotted that last night. But the two brass “nuts” in there are either damaged, or aren’t what they appear. It made me think the bolts should be unscrewed from the front, if I could get the nose off. I will give it a try, anyway.

EDIT - Thanks for the encouragement!
Maybe you can see why I was hesitant: now that they’re out, the one looks like a home-made replacement, a drilled-out and tapped brass bolt, maybe. Not even the same length as the (assumed) factory plastic-sheathed one. One tab of the screwdriver slot broken off. I’m glad it came out at all, considering.

BUT - The ground lead goes way deep in there. Seems to me the nose must come off for full access. The two bolts seem to become two prongs. Can’t see how they terminate up in the nose - somehow form a Place for the shaft bearing, I suppose. The damned Bakelite is SO fragile! I broke a tiny fragment near each if the prongs - only recovered one so far. Hopefully mendable with superglue.
Still don’t have it apart enough to get to the ground screw. There seems to be a nut around the shaft on the nose that would release it if I had a pin wrench with ling enough pins...maybe make something with a length of tubing.

 

[Davefr]

Yes, I’d like to. I spotted that last night. But the two brass “nuts” in there are either damaged, or aren’t what they appear. It made me think the bolts should be unscrewed from the front, if I could get the nose off. I will give it a try, anyway.

EDIT - Thanks for the encouragement!
Maybe you can see why I was hesitant: now that they’re out, the one looks like a home-made replacement, a drilled-out and tapped brass bolt, maybe. Not even the same length as the (assumed) factory plastic-sheathed one. One tab of the screwdriver slot broken off. I’m glad it came out at all, considering.

I'd highly recommend not taking it apart any further if all you need to do is replace the cord. It's a total PIA to reassemble correctly especially with the slide switch that slithers thru the motor/armature assembly.

 

[LesserSon]

Davefr, you are undoubtedly correct. I may just blow what dust I can out of it, splice the ground, and repair what I can of the damage I’ve already done.

A HUGE THANK YOU for monitoring and commenting, anyway!

Edit - I decided to reassemble and will deal with the cord some other time. Superglue did seem to get the broken bits back in place.

 

[tym]

LesserSon, glad it came apart without too much fuss. In similar situations, I'm always nervous I'll break it more (ask me why...LOL).

 

[SuburbGuy]

Yes, I’d like to. I spotted that last night. But the two brass “nuts” in there are either damaged, or aren’t what they appear. It made me think the bolts should be unscrewed from the front, if I could get the nose off. I will give it a try, anyway.

EDIT - Thanks for the encouragement!
Maybe you can see why I was hesitant: now that they’re out, the one looks like a home-made replacement, a drilled-out and tapped brass bolt, maybe. Not even the same length as the (assumed) factory plastic-sheathed one. One tab of the screwdriver slot broken off. I’m glad it came out at all, considering.

BUT - The ground lead goes way deep in there. Seems to me the nose must come off for full access. The two bolts seem to become two prongs. Can’t see how they terminate up in the nose - somehow form a Place for the shaft bearing, I suppose. The damned Bakelite is SO fragile! I broke a tiny fragment near each if the prongs - only recovered one so far. Hopefully mendable with superglue.
Still don’t have it apart enough to get to the ground screw. There seems to be a nut around the shaft on the nose that would release it if I had a pin wrench with ling enough pins...maybe make something with a length of tubing.

If this model Dremel seems to be "unrepairable" that might explain why they're rarely found.

 

[madison069]

With the downturn of estate sale and garage sales i stated working on other projects. One of them is the Scott mower I was talking about in earlier post. First goal was to get the motor running. Well first thing I found out was the ignition coil was bad. Did some research and found out this motor had a smart system installed. Basically to make it easier to start and run efficiently by controlling the ignition timing. Well that adds up to more money for ignition parts! Further research i found out people was taking the CV15 ignition coils that didn't have the smart system and installing them on cv16s engines with no issues. So I ordered the coil and I went ahead and ordered a new carb and filters. I also checked compression and its reading 100psi, which I figured is acceptable for a motor that's been sitting for awhile.

Currently I'm digging around in the wiring harness and figuring out why the starter wasn't cranking with the key. Most likely its something simple as corroded connection or a switch somewhere. Hopefully this motor will be starting this weekend when all of the parts gets in this week. Crossing my finger that the rest of the system is working when we test try to drive it!

 

[anytool]

Picked up this vintage craftsman 6 droor of facebook today for free 99. I never understood why people liked these boxes until getting this. My father had one growing up and it always seemed flimsy. his was a model from the 90s/ early 2000s. This one, that im assuming to be older, is much heavier and sturdier. any ideas on date anyone?

 

[Outlawmws]

Lift the lid, inside front right corner IIR.

 

[anytool]

Didn't see anything inside the front right corner

 

[bubinga]

With the downturn of estate sale and garage sales i stated working on other projects. One of them is the Scott mower I was talking about in earlier post. First goal was to get the motor running. Well first thing I found out was the ignition coil was bad. Did some research and found out this motor had a smart system installed. Basically to make it easier to start and run efficiently by controlling the ignition timing. Well that adds up to more money for ignition parts! Further research i found out people was taking the CV15 ignition coils that didn't have the smart system and installing them on cv16s engines with no issues. So I ordered the coil and I went ahead and ordered a new carb and filters. I also checked compression and its reading 100psi, which I figured is acceptable for a motor that's been sitting for awhile.

Currently I'm digging around in the wiring harness and figuring out why the starter wasn't cranking with the key. Most likely its something simple as corroded connection or a switch somewhere. Hopefully this motor will be starting this weekend when all of the parts gets in this week. Crossing my finger that the rest of the system is working when we test try to drive it!

Good luck Getting Her Running!!!

 

[RTM]

Currently I'm digging around in the wiring harness and figuring out why the starter wasn't cranking with the key. Most likely its something simple as corroded connection or a switch somewhere

Hot wire it, see if that makes it crank, then work your way back one piece at a time

 

[eborcim]

Not a true garage sale, but........I bid on several more lots and won about 3/4 of the lots I bid on.

Greenfield tap/die set in wood box. $5.25
Simplex #83 railroad jack. $3.75
3 pairs of DeWitt Vise Grips. $4.67 / pr.
SnapOn #21 snap ring pliers. $1.75
Box including Craftsman starter wrench, 2 Craftsman screwdrivers, small OTC puller, etc. $1.25
Box including Craftsman ignition wrench set, Spede hone, Proto nut driver, Lectrolite DOE wrench, etc $1.25
3 ton hydraulic floor jack $4.25.

Nice way to break up a drought.

Nice score on some good old stuff. I like the railroad jack!

 

[d42jeep]

Didn't see anything inside the front right corner

Mine are inside the front left corner looking at the box from the front. Kinda hard to see sometimes.
-Don

 

[madison069]

Good luck Getting Her Running!!!

Hot wire it, see if that makes it crank, then work your way back one piece at a time

Yep, I was by passing it to start with and it was cranking. This morning with my daughter help we diagnosed the issue to a switch not being engaged when the brake pedal was pushed in. We moved the switch and it now works to crank the mower up with the key. But I'm not 100% convinced that was the issue since it don't feel like the pedal is going far enough. Either way, its one step at a time and we will see how it performs when the motor is running. Parts should be in on Thursday.

 

[Bobcat753]

Been a while since I’ve posted on the garage sale thread. Between work and the pandemic haven’t had much time to get out. But I did manage to get this really nice Alliant mill in trade for the shaper I had. I just need to clean and assemble the mill and it will be running! Came with a new VFD too. Now I can start hunting for tooling and a nice machinist vise! I had originally paid $400 for the shaper so this mill is a really nice upgrade. I never did anything with the shaper but the new owner is going to get it back into running condition.

 

[Provincial]

Good trade!

 

[bubinga]

Yep, I was by passing it to start with and it was cranking. This morning with my daughter help we diagnosed the issue to a switch not being engaged when the brake pedal was pushed in. We moved the switch and it now works to crank the mower up with the key. But I'm not 100% convinced that was the issue since it don't feel like the pedal is going far enough. Either way, its one step at a time and we will see how it performs when the motor is running. Parts should be in on Thursday.

You're Getting There Brother!!

Good Call!

 

[bubinga]

Brought this Home Saturday, All of $20.00
Have the CRS these days, sorry if this is a double Double post.

 

[Outlawmws]

Holy Crud, is that saw really small? Or is that 3/4HP Just GIGANTIC?

 

[bubinga]

Holy Crud, is that saw really small? Or is that 3/4HP Just GIGANTIC?

It is Tiny. Just what Dr. bubinga ordered..................

It's smaller than it looked on Marketplace. It's kind of neat to though.
I thought It would compare to a C/M 103.XXXXX , But It's smaller.
The base is on wheels too.
I'm not set up in the basement yet, So this will get squeezed into the garage,
And roll it out when I want to use it.
Plan to make an out-feed table, And some type of right side table.
The seller was glad to see it go to a good home too!
The guys long time friend passed away, gave him the saw, and A nice floor
model C/M 150, (No arc of shame either)

 

[Shiftless]

Hardwood flooring contractors will fight over that saw if you ever want to sell it. Like outlaw said, the motor looks out of proportion to the saw.

 

[bubinga]

Hardwood flooring contractors will fight over that saw if you ever want to sell it. Like outlaw said, the motor looks out of proportion to the saw.

Oh it is Out of proportion!

Oh wow, I didn't know that.

It was a nice little drive, nice guy too!
Then I was close, stopped at my buddies house and He was installing a lower rad hose on a 2000 V-6 ford ranger. Visited and helped him with the hose.
It has a "Y" built into it as a bypass hose.
What A PITA set-up.