2020 Garage Sale Thread

[Shiftless]

b.well:
Nice one!
I see you’ve learned one of my eBay search tricks. For big heavy stuff, search by location with nearest first with local pickup option. I have scored some almost unbelievable deals on bigger things that are expensive to ship. The deal I remember the most wasn’t a vise but 4 milk crates full of electrical and plumbing gear from a failed fire sprinkler business. Local pick up option and of course nobody else bid. I resold just one specialized pressure gauge on eBay for more than what I paid for the whole lot.


.

 

[b.well]

b.well:
Nice one!
I see you’ve learned one of my eBay search tricks. For big heavy stuff, search by location with nearest first with local pickup option. I have scored some almost unbelievable deals on bigger things that are expensive to ship. The deal I remember the most wasn’t a vise but 4 milk crates full of electrical and plumbing gear from a failed fire sprinkler business. Local pick up option and of course nobody else bid. I resold just one specialized pressure gauge on eBay for more than what I paid for the whole lot.
.

Thanks Shiftless. I've used ebay a long time but haven't used the by location much. I stumbled across an ebay tool seller in the next town over by location and I picked up a good amount from him year. I was using it for vises too. This is the first one that worked out. It's great if a small portion of a lot pays for the rest!!!

 

[Old Radar]

pelletman ***** for the curb treasures and ***** again for the vices find!!

 

[LesserSon]

Garage Sale item adjustment (belated) tale:
A week ago, I posted (here) my pickups at the Blue Ridge flea. One item was a new-in-box nibbler, which I needed, fortuitously, to add a second downspout to the recreational property we share with some members of MrsLS’s extended family. Got to the job (gutter full of standing water and all that grows in it), drill a 3/8” starter hole where I wand the downspout, endure a shower of filth, and...the €%£-£@#~^£ nibbler won’t nibble! It just gnaws with no progress. Took a good look at it, and the plunger doesn’t open fully, nor does it close fully. Took the only screw out (held together with split/roll pins) hoping it’s a depth adjuster, but no, just holds the anvil in position. Tweaking that did expand the plunger travel, but not enough to nibble. Shot of WD40 got it to extend, but still wouldn’t close. Meanwhile, little flakes of aluminum are jamming it.
Tossed it in my tote (didn't think to bring a pin punch) and finished the hole with a utility knife (at the top of a ladder while stabilizing the gutter with ny other hand). The utility knife is at the top of my “most versatile” list, followed by vise grips, superglue, and duct tape.
Back home today, I punched out the pin and examined the nibbler. Finally decided the shoulders that give clearance for the lever weren’t ground far enough on the plunger. (Grinding a bit of lever would have gained clearance and been a bit easier, but would have weakened the lever where it is pinned to the plunger.)
Aha! I’ve got a garage sale find that will take care of that! Dremelled away a bit (I’m not very steady, but for this, neatness doesn’t really matter), and voila! The nibbler nibbles!
Just don’t know when I’ll ever need it again...

 

[LesserSon]

pelletman
Wow! I really like that lion head cast on the Monarch.

 

[b.well]

Does anyone know how to "fully" disassemble a RHFT ratchet?

I have it apart as far as I have seen one taken. Removed the snap ring. Pawls and all removed. What I haven't been able to figure out is how to remove the quick release. It's quite sticky/rusty in there. How do you get that plunger/qr bearing out?

When I got this it was frozen. I got it moving with some PB blaster. Took it apart to clean up and grease. Got all the surface rust off the handle. This will turn out to be a nice tool if I can smooth out that QR.

 

[Outlawmws]

Is it rusty or gritty? If rusty, I'd soak the assembly in Evaporust and work it. If gritty, solvent and a lot of flow...

 

[b.well]

Howdy Outlaw!

It gets stuck pretty hard. I keep spraying a bit of pb blaster on the bearing and move the qr back and forth. I let it sit in a little pb blaster bath last night. Enough to submerge the little parts but only half the main body. There is definitely rust in there too.

I know the QR Button and Plunger are two different pieces. I can spin the QR Button 360 degrees. It's hard at times to spin too.

I do not have Evaporust but have heard good things about it. I do use electryolysis and was planning to run that this evening. I also have an ultrasonic cleaner(cleaned carbs with carb cleaner and inside sockets with gas).

You still recommend Evaporust overall?

 

[Outlawmws]

Start with your US cleaner, and get any grit out, and old crusty lube.

While Evaporust is great stuff, I believe the finish on the ratcheting guts is black oxide, and most anything that will eat rust will remove that as well.

The E tank is generally line of site, so probably won't do much?

 

[Shiftless]

Start with your US cleaner, and get any grit out, and old crusty lube.

While Evaporust is great stuff, I believe the finish on the ratcheting guts is black oxide, and most anything that will eat rust will remove that as well.

The E tank is generally line of site, so probably won't do much?

Once again, outlaw has given great advice.
E-tank indeed is line of sight so that’s not recommended.

The only ratchet I ever disassembled was a SnapOn which was chromed inside. But the guts were black oxide finished. I should say that the replacement parts I got from S.O. were black oxide coated. The ones I took out of this ratchet were definitely “oxide” coated. No wonder this old rat was put aside. Probably left out in the rain for a while.
The previous owner didn’t know it was rebuildable. He seemed pleased that I gave him $10 for it. SnapOn sent me all new guts free for the asking. Even included a tiny tube of superlube grease.

 

[mike_paxton]

I have been on the lookout for a Woodworker's Vise. I found a Columbian Cleveland, Ohio 10" Jaws Woodworker's Vise in good condition on Ebay. Won the auction for $45. Picked it up this weekend. It's a beast!!! Seller said these normally sell over $150. No doubt the local pickup only option helped me out

b.well:

Nice looking Columbian Vise.

It also looks like it has the quick release function on it as well.

I normally wire wheel the rods, to help everything move smoothly. However, yours may be just fine the way they are.

Mike

 

[Outlawmws]

Mike, I'm not seeing a QR lever?

 

[Shiftless]

Mike, I'm not seeing a QR lever?

Maybe the lever snapped off.
I see the partially threaded main screw that says to me QR.

 

[b.well]

Maybe the lever snapped off.
I see the partially threaded main screw that says to me QR.

I was curious about the partially threaded main screw. I haven't seen that before and didn't know why it was that way. Would the QR feature allow the quick release of the main screw so you fully open or close the vise in a flash? I am guessing the wrench should be with or part of the hex nut holding the main screw threads tight behind the static jaw.

 

[Lotusnut]

I was curious about the partially threaded main screw. I haven't seen that before and didn't know why it was that way. Would the QR feature allow the quick release of the main screw so you fully open or close the vise in a flash? I am guessing the wrench should be with or part of the hex nut holding the main screw threads tight behind the static jaw.

My guess is that the vice has a split nut that will tighten when there is resistance but if you unscrew it a revolution it will slide either in or out. To tighten the vise you hold your object to be clamped in the jaws slide the dynamic jaw against the object and tighten the screw a turn or two at the most.

 

[bluebolt]

After keeping it in the garage for the long time, this came from 2 different sales.
Speednut wrench Corp, 6"
Craftsman (forgot what it's for - the owner told me? may be gas equipment
related, seems relatively old)
Lectrolit Tru-Fit 2116 (never saw model like this before with both markings)
MAC D4
Williams Superrench 1090D Tappet
SK WAYNE 9/16
Blue Point Supreme DOE


$7

The Craftsman wrench is for the Oxy-acetylene welder kit, it is clearly pictured in my Craftsman 1957 Power Tools catalog, top of page 49.

 

[bluebolt]

Some of my finds this year. Estate sale, $40ish total.

 

[bluebolt]

This stuff came from an old local tool company warehouse. I think I spent around $70. See the Sait deburring wheel? There were 3 of them and they were $1 each. I already gave 2 to my blacksmith friend who fixes some of my tools for free.

 

[bluebolt]

Both of these garden tractors are Sears plus I got the Sears plow and disc. The big copper hammer has a 5 pound head. The small vise is a Littlestown and the big one is a Prentiss. Spent around $150 with $90 being the tractors and implements.

 

[bluebolt]

While at one of the estate sales a lady asked me if I wanted a free riding mower. SURE! All I have done to this Husqvarna so far is clean it up, hopefully I can get it running again without spending too much money.

 

[mike_paxton]

Mike, I'm not seeing a QR lever?

Outlawmws:

The middle rod on WW vise doesn't have threads completely around it. Should be able to slide when handle turned to smooth portion of rod for QR.

Mike

 

[gpw_42]

Part 2 of my haul from Friday's estate sale, several military steel boxes.

First is a 1944 US Navy 20mm Mk 1 ammo box, w/lid.

Second is an unknown (probably Army) box, perhaps for a machine gun cart. Leather handle still intact. It's about the size of a .50 can, but built very differently.

Not pictured is a drill bit rack, full of (mostly) K-D hex keys/allen wrenches, and three small Craftsman -V- hex keys. The rack is only marked with the size of the bits.

Finally, a spare parts box for some sort of armored vehicle. It's 17" or 17-1/2" long and the "spare parts" info is stenciled on a white painted background. When I first saw it, I thought it was a sticker, but that was not correct.

 

[Oldpine]

B.well,
I have that exact same vise. The quick release works by turning the handle until the cut out in the main screw is up (when mounted on the bench). Then the movable jaw can be slid in or out, and then tighten up less than a full turn to clamp. Mine works well.
Tom

 

[b.well]

While at one of the estate sales a lady asked me if I wanted a free riding mower. SURE! All I have done to this Husqvarna so far is clean it up, hopefully I can get it running again without spending too much money.

Hopefully, worst case, it's just gas sick. Fresh gas, oil, and a cleaned carb gets most neglected things going

 

[b.well]

B.well,
I have that exact same vise. The quick release works by turning the handle until the cut out in the main screw is up (when mounted on the bench). Then the movable jaw can be slid in or out, and then tighten up less than a full turn to clamp. Mine works well.
Tom

Thanks for the confirmation! I haven't mounted it yet. My initial concern would be what if that "up" position was where the right tightness was. Or a little to either direction would be weak only have a small amount of thread interaction.

After all that I think I understand now...lol. The intention is definitely to use the QR. Enable QR; slide until object in vise is snug; turn about 1/2 turn to tighten. Basically exactly what you said .

NOT using the QR and just turning the handle could result in what I was initially concerned about. No worries. More anxious to get it mounted now!!!

Do you have wood mounted on both jaws? There are only screw holes to attach wood on the moving jaw. The static jaw only has two screw holes for mounting. I've only seen woodworker's vises have wood on both faces. I can see if one face is flat metal and the other wood that may be "soft enough" not to damage things.

 

[d42jeep]

Not pictured is a drill bit rack, full of (mostly) K-D hex keys/allen wrenches, and three small Craftsman -V- hex keys. The rack is only marked with the size of the bits.

Looks like one of these drill indices.
-Don

 

[mike_paxton]

Saw up on marketplace a Millers Falls No. 3 grinder, but it was missing a number of parts.

Decided to buy it anyway and hope some of the parts might show up.

Treadle parts are the majority of the missing items, probably because someone put a pulley wheel and motorized it.

Decided to remove the pulley wheel and clean it up and at least for now, put a handle to turn the stone on it for now.

Pic 6 is not mine, but shows one that is complete as sold in the period from late 1880's to 1920 era.

Pic 7 in a Dosch Mfg Co Miter Trimmer. This is a match to one I already have, so decided to buy it for a spare.

Mike

 

[TOTO]

Picked up this Walker Turner Radial Drill from an online auction. It is actually a 15 speed not the earlier 4 speed as was advertised. It seems to be in good shape for its age. Just need to find some time to check it out better.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Picked up this Walker Turner Radial Drill from an online auction. It is actually a 15 speed not the earlier 4 speed as was advertised. It seems to be in good shape for its age. Just need to find some time to check it out better.

If you paid $15 for that, you ****! That is a great commercial duty unit


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[TOTO]

If you paid $15 for that, you ****! That is a great commercial duty unit


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Yes, $15 plus fees/tax. Thanks

 

[LesserSon]

The static jaw only has two screw holes for mounting. I've only seen woodworker's vises have wood on both faces. I can see if one face is flat metal and the other wood that may be "soft enough" not to damage things.

Those two holes are not for mounting. The mounting holes are larger and mount to the underside of your bench.
Mount your vise on your bench.
Cut a piece of wood for a pad, drill two holes same space as on jaw, and countersink two long wood screws through the wood pad, through the static jaw and right into your workbench top. Do not overtighten them. The countersinks in the pad should be just deep enough that the heads of the screws can’t marr your workpiece.
It’s set up that way so you don’t have to remove the vise from the bench to add, remove or replace the pad.

 

[b.well]

Those two holes are not for mounting. The mounting holes are larger and mount to the underside of your bench.
Mount your vise on your bench.
Cut a piece of wood for a pad, drill two holes same space as on jaw, and countersink two long wood screws through the wood pad, through the static jaw and right into your workbench top. Do not overtighten them. The countersinks in the pad should be just deep enough that the heads of the screws can’t marr your workpiece.
It’s set up that way so you don’t have to remove the vise from the bench to add, remove or replace the pad.

Thanks LesserSon. I know the main mounting points are on the bottom but the other wood working vises I have seen mounted to the bench from the static jaw too. And these two holes in the static jaw are countersunk for screws to go into them flush. With the weight of this thing I think it's good to have those two mount points in the static jaw. I'd say it gives you the option to use the wood face on the static or not. Interesting the dynamic jaw has 4 screw holes for the wood. Does make me wonder if meant for wood on the static why not have four mount points back there too. Either way, I plan to do exactly what you said. Mount the static wood face with screws that go well into the bench

I clamped it inverted to test the functionality. The QR is great. The handle will not make a full turn. Twist the handle left until it stops. Slide to position. Then you have a 3/4 turn to tighten things down and the handle stops again.

One cotter bolt and I separated the two jaws. I sprayed it down with bp blaster tonight. Will wire wheel parts tomorrow.

Anyone else have complaints about the smell of PB Blaster? I've always used WD40. This is my first can of PB Blaster; it does have a different, more potent?, smell. Mentioned PB Blaster to my neighbor and he said he won't use it for the smell. My wife is complaining more about my garage smell since I started using it. Seems like it's on it's way to being my one and only can of PB Blaster.....lol.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Anyone else have complaints about the smell of PB Blaster?...[ ]...My wife is complaining more about my garage smell since I started using it.

Oh, it stinks real bad. It was a bit of a running joke in my house several years ago. My wife claimed it made her ill. But I hated to waste the cans I had, so I continued using it, out in the garage, being sure to wash my hands with Go-Jo, then soap, outside, before coming in the house, but I could never sneak it past her. I couldn't smell it on me, but she could every time. Once I brought a rag into the basement by mistake, and she was upstairs like a Bloodhound all over it within seconds.

 

[Oldpine]

bwell,
My vise has wood mounted on both jaws exactly as LS explained.

The stink in PB Blaster is what makes it work. My wife hates the smell also.

Tom

 

[b.well]

Hello again

If it's better to post this in another thread please let me know. I started here and you have been very helpful so I am continuing on.

I ran into an issue disassembling the Columbian Woodworking Vise. Took: PB blaster, TWO 1 1/4" half inch sockets on breaker bars, and a pipe wrench to get the nut off the front of the dynamic jaw (to release the slide rod). After the nut broke free it was easier for a turn then got hard again. Not so unusual I thought if it's all rusty in there. Kept turning and some metal fell out the front. Wasn't sure what it was but all I could do then was keep going. As you can see in the pictures I tore off the outer thread at the end of the slide rod. I don't think it's so bad as the nut goes past that thread when tight. However, now the nut does not want to go on. My guess is the end of the slide rod was hammered after the nut went on to prevent it from coming off.

Questions:
1. How do you recommend getting the nut back on? I could force it with the ratchet but I don't want to do any more damage. I do not have a tap/die this big. I think the thread is 3/4". I do have a rethreader 3/4" fine thread. Again, it doesn't go on easy and I haven't forced it; thread on it is definitely not as deep as on the slide rod. I am guessing any repair to the threads will need to be with a file.

2. Should I proceed with taking off the other slide rod bolt? It doesn't look like the end is hammered but it could be a little bit. I want to have a remedy for the first one before I potentially create the issue again. Ideally, also find a better way to lock the slide rod and not leave teeth marks in it.

3. Side note. The dynamic jaw cannot be removed from the main thread with a wrench or screwdriver or tap. The pin is mushroomed out on both sides, not intended to be removed. I am not a machinist so can't whip up a new one. New territory for me here. Thanks for all your help!!!

 

[3jakes]

It was a rusty weekend. But not very expensive.
Mostly yard sales & a return visit to the cat pee condemned house.
Yesterday afternoon was spent in front of the wire wheel & squirting oil to get this stuff working.

Matched pair of Simplex 1-1/4 x 10 w/ ball bearing caps barn jacks $5.00/pair.
Bridgeport 56 nail puller... $1.00
Plumb Hatchet... $3.00
Signode Strap cutter... $2.00
2 unmarked tongs... $2.00
What I think is a Spiller ax (looks like double stamp) $3.00

Clamps:
Brink & Cotton 4"
Adjustable C.Co. 5"
Clesco puller $1.00
An awesome Jorgensen 606 6" welder's clamp
All 4 for $4.00

 

[3jakes]

Rusty weekend continued:

KD 2031 tail pipe cutter $1.00
Reed No.11 Pipe wrench ??? $1.00
Miller C-3301 Retaining ring pliers $1.00
Starrett #230 in red case $5.00

& my favorite that i had no idea what it was....
Buckingham #6103 $1.00
Video here: (skip to 45 minutes)

 

[b.well]

It was a rusty weekend. But not very expensive.
Mostly yard sales & a return visit to the cat pee condemned house.
Yesterday afternoon was spent in front of the wire wheel & squirting oil to get this stuff working.

Matched pair of Simplex 1-1/4 x 10 w/ ball bearing caps barn jacks $5.00/pair.
Bridgeport 56 nail puller... $1.00
Plumb Hatchet... $3.00
Signode Strap cutter... $2.00
2 unmarked tongs... $2.00
What I think is a Spiller ax (looks like double stamp) $3.00

Clamps:
Brink & Cotton 4"
Adjustable C.Co. 5"
Clesco puller $1.00
An awesome Jorgensen 606 6" welder's clamp
All 4 for $4.00

I say those are "you ****" prices all around. Small price points but I know that plumb hatchet alone fetches $30 on ebay. Good finds! Need to find me some farm sales!!!

 

[duddly]

Rusty weekend continued:

KD 2031 tail pipe cutter $1.00
Reed No.11 Pipe wrench ??? $1.00
Miller C-3301 Retaining ring pliers $1.00
Starrett #230 in red case $5.00

& my favorite that i had no idea what it was....
Buckingham #6103 $1.00
Video here: (skip to 45 minutes)

That thread restorer is cool! much suckage on the price too!

 

[3jakes]

Ok one last then I'll shut up

Pair of Blue-Point tail pipe stretchers.
When the guy said $5.00 the pair, I nearly had to clean out my drawers..


And this single mantle lantern that needs some TLC. $3.00