2020 Garage Sale Thread

[Private Lugnutz]

...a 1961 Grundig Majestic console stereo/phono...[ ]...I'm an electrical engineer, and my brother does mid-century modern furniture restoration, so we should be able to get it fixed up.

Great find! And good luck on the resto!

 

[Outlawmws]

I love the old radios and stereos! Great Score!

Is it tube? 61 would be awful early for SS.

 

[Provincial]

Not a garage sale, but a friend who knows I like old tools gave these to me.

First three photos are of a Darex drill bit sharpening collet and setting fixture. It appears to be for the M-series sharpener. I believe it works for bits from 1/8 to 3/4 diameter.

The last photo are some wrenches he gave me.

STANDARD adjustable. " ___AND WRENCH" "GURANTEED"
On the flip side it says "Gir_______" "USA"
It has been used mostly for a hammer!

Hawkeye Wrench Co. "CROCODILE" wrench.

PUROX 6402 welding? Three openings, 9-16, 11-16, and 7/8

 

[Stuart in MN]

I love the old radios and stereos! Great Score!

Is it tube? 61 would be awful early for SS.

Yes, there's a seven tube chassis in this thing.

 

[Outlawmws]

Yes, there's a seven tube chassis in this thing.

 

[d42jeep]

My neighbor and I revisited another neighbor’s storage shed that will soon be demolished and we grabbed several items that otherwise would have ended up in landfill. My neighbor grabbed the bulk of the goodies since I had scored there before.
-Don

 

[d42jeep]

I scored these since everything was free. I’m not sure if I can save the screwdriver since the blade is both bent and broken. We left this large tubing cutter behind.
-Don

 

[BFBOB]

UNION TWIST DRILL CO ATHOL, MASS USA

Wonderful texture in the casting.

.

Tremendous find!

Is it just me, or does that eyebolt look ... umm ... wrong?? That looks like the kind of modification I might do, just to be silly.

But that's just my opinion; I could be wrong.

I couldn't find a catalog shot, anybody here have one?

OTOH, there's this:
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-union-twist-tap-drill-machine-tool-index

A couple more showed up on evilPay, both sans eyebolt.

 

[RTM]

My neighbor and I revisited another neighbor’s storage shed that will soon be demolished and we grabbed several items
-Don

That Richards Wilcox is a nice quick release vise, but a ****** to troubleshoot, as it requires gravity to make it work, and your natural tendency is to try to turn it over while working on it.

 

[d42jeep]

Thanks for the info. I passed it along to my neighbor.
-Don

 

[3baygarage]

Nice scores!


Visited a sort of old school pawn shop, that I didn’t know existed until the other day.

I walked through the door and was greeted with “No masks! We don’t wear masks here! We like to see your face.” I said, “Makes sense.”

There was some cool stuff on display in this shop. There was a glass case with some old things and even a handful of ratchets. I noticed a snap on industrial rat, a GS71. When I asked how much, the guy said “Nothing there is for sale.” I was like He goes, “Yeah, that’s known as the conversation case.” Ok, I can get that.

He proceeded to tell me that for the right offer, anything in there might be for sale. Well, I went too low, and he declined. Then he told me the last time he sold a Snap On ratchet, it was for $125. Must have been something good. I held my tongue.

There was an old dude in there buying guns and gold while I sifted through the tools. At one point the customer wanted a certain gun, and the owner rolled up the garage door behind the counter to reveal a nice little arsenal. I’ll admit it was a bit of a thrill, I certainly smiled.


The hunt was worth it. First thing I spotted atop all the sockets was a Proto Los Angeles ratcheting adapter. Works, needs some clean and lube. Then I noticed a strange somewhat longer 1/2” drive shallow socket. Turns out it was a Mustang FxF adapter. Inches away was the MxM extension.

I was very happy when the owner told me $5 for all.

The haul:

Proto Los Angeles 1/2” ratcheting adapter
Mustang Female connector
Mustang M/M
Proto deep 9/16” 1/4 dr.
S-K Wayne flex socket
S-K 9mm
Jesse James 1/4” x 1/2” drive! Can't say I had this configuration.

5 bucks well spent, and I found a new place to stop by.

 

[Old Radar]

I scored these since everything was free. I’m not sure if I can save the screwdriver since the blade is both bent and broken. We left this large tubing cutter behind.
-Don

Looks like the same style, if not the same manufacturer as the screwdriver I picked up a couple of weeks ago. I really like the feel of it in my hand.

 

[Old Radar]

Hit a sale today that sported a lot of tools but only a few things caught my eye. Spent $25, including the nearly full can of WD-40.

The little Japanese tool case had an assortment of USA sockets that included:
Four CM Long C "BE"
I thought the 6" extension was also a CM Long C because the knurling looked the same but it turned out to be a New Britain.
Singles each of a Plomb, Blackhawk, Williams, Bonney, Proto LA, two Snap-ons and a 4" P&C adjustable 1704-L. I already have a 1704 (no -L)--does anyone know what the "L" designates?

They wanted $20 for the Parker 63-1/2 vise. I thought that was a bit steep but they were not negotiating sticker prices. I found the Steel Case hand grinder (Patent Pend) with no price sticker and asked the lady if she would consider throwing it in if I bought the vise for sticker price. She did.
I've seen photos of other 63-1/2s that had the model number on the same side as the Parker name and had ball serifs on the numbers. I suspect my sans-serif model is a later version. It appears to have remnants of red under the grime.

The grinder was awarded its patent (2,126,879) in 1938 from a 1936 filing date, so that brackets my specimen.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Hit a sale today that sported a lot of tools but only a few things caught my eye. Spent $25, including the nearly full can of WD-40.

The little Japanese tool case had an assortment of USA sockets that included:
Four CM Long C "BE"
I thought the 6" extension was also a CM Long C because the knurling looked the same but it turned out to be a New Britain.
Singles each of a Plomb, Blackhawk, Williams, Bonney, Proto LA, two Snap-ons and a 4" P&C adjustable 1704-L. I already have a 1704 (no -L)--does anyone know what the "L" designates?

They wanted $20 for the Parker 63-1/2 vise. I thought that was a bit steep but they were not negotiating sticker prices. I found the Steel Case hand grinder (Patent Pend) with no price sticker and asked the lady if she would consider throwing it in if I bought the vise for sticker price. She did.
I've seen photos of other 63-1/2s that had the model number on the same side as the Parker name and had ball serifs on the numbers. I suspect my sans-serif model is a later version. It appears to have remnants of red under the grime.

The grinder was awarded its patent (2,126,879) in 1938 from a 1936 filing date, so that brackets my specimen.

]

The p& c combo with the L after the part number designates a long pattern combo wrench- ie more leverage



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[Old Radar]

The p& c combo with the L after the part number designates a long pattern combo wrench- ie more leverage

Hmmm. I can buy that for combos, DBEs and DOEs, but these are 4" adjustables with no discernible difference in length. If you need more leverage than a 4" adjustable can give you, I don't think you can go to a go to a "longer" 4" adjustable.

 

[Outlawmws]

OR, nice finds! hard to find a vise with its parting tool still Present!

No sales for me for the next two weekends! Going hunting! See Y'all in about 12 days!

 

[bmwrd0]

The L is for locking, I do believe. Proto empire indicated clik-stop with an L on its adjustables.

Happy hunting Outlaw!

 

[Smokeshow69]

The L is for locking, I do believe. Proto empire indicated clik-stop with an L on its adjustables.

Happy hunting Outlaw!

Good call! I am not sure what I thought he said but there is no combo in that picture, just the adjustable wrench. Yesterday was a long day for me [emoji23]


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[Private Lugnutz]

I almost didn't "recognize" you with the facelift, Smoke!

 

[Private Lugnutz]

'Odds (and mainly odds) and ends' type small haul (Lugz 2020_44) from the flea market today. A very well-made axe sheath, a tiny antique bellows, an antique oiler, a matching curiosity ratchet and swivel joint, and a tiny Williams "S" wrench.

 

[Smokeshow69]

I almost didn't "recognize" you with the facelift, Smoke!

Thought I would mix it up for a bit since I have had that avatar for about 2 years now. Don’t get too used to it because I will change it to my tool tote embossing once I get done with the aging process


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[TailGunner3000]

Tailgunner,
If only to extend the Great Woodworker's Vise Debate of 2020 a little further, I am going to have to walk back my agreement a little. I think the ad indicates that some customers were obviously using wood jaw faces, and it implies that some were buying nice custom-fit and probably re-drilled maple ones from that vise maker and probably others, and implies further that some were saving the $1.10 and probably making their own. It doesn't mean that other customers weren't mounting their vises without them (a la my old man, and LS, apparently) and using temporary blocking, thereby maximizing throat capacity per each job/task at hand. In other words, I don't think it's enough by itself to quantitatively justify a "generally accepted" conclusion.


Hee hee.

I stand by my generally accepted use of wood-faced jaw inserts, but I certainly agree there are different ways to mount the vises. In truth, my post wasn't meant to address how these vises should be mounted, but rather the use of wood jaw inserts. Whether attached to the jaws, or sitting loose on the vise, (or even using the table as the static jaw) wood inserts are the standard way to use these types of vises. No matter how well made the vise is, it's impossible to guarantee three axis parallelism of the jaws. When combined with the inherent asymmetry of wood, the wood-to-metal contact would certainly result in marring of the workpiece.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Don Great score on the Richards Wilcox woodworking vise, clamps and drawknife! I can only imagine how your neighbor made out. :0)

Lugz I never did congratulate you on the awesome WC Toles woodworking vise. That is a dandy vise!

Both of those vises are suckage worthy in my book!

 

[d42jeep]

Don Great score on the Richards Wilcox woodworking vise, clamps and drawknife! I can only imagine how your neighbor made out. :0)

All of those went to my neighbor’s shop since my space is quite limited here. The good thing is that they are available to borrow any time since I have a key. Here is the drill press that came from the same shed last month in it’s new home in his shop.
-Don

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I stand by my generally accepted use of wood-faced jaw inserts, but I certainly agree there are different ways to mount the vises. In truth, my post wasn't meant to address how these vises should be mounted, but rather the use of wood jaw inserts. Whether attached to the jaws, or sitting loose on the vise, (or even using the table as the static jaw) wood inserts are the standard way to use these types of vises.

Roger, and I agree, especially because you included the "loose" approach. No argument on the use of some type of inserts or blocking or "packing" as I remember my dad calling it, between the steel jaws and the workpiece. It's connected to the mounting discussion, though, if you're intent on having them permanently mounted on both jaws. I'm just sayin the option to buy them from that particular vise maker didn't necessarily lend any credence to the idea that most guys were permanently mounting them. That seems to be what we were generally collectively trying to figure out. If that now seems to be a standard practice, when did that happen?

Lugz I never did congratulate you on the awesome WC Toles woodworking vise. That is a dandy vise!

No worries. Thanks.

 

[LesserSon]

curiosity ratchet

Mitoloy, right? I think Japan. See AA site.
I got a 1/2dr 12pt socket 2 weeks ago, if you want to add.

Seems to say “14 A7” but I haven’t measured it yet.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Mitoloy, right? I think Japan. See AA site.
I have a 1/2dr 12pt socket if you want to add.

Sure. Set it aside. (Cool. The socket has the same logo as the uni joint with the hex-shaped O's.) And yes, definitely Japan. I can't believe AA did not remark on its Plomb/Proto knockoffedness! From afar I thought it was going to be a Plomb or Proto 5449. If the pear-head shape and face plate and selector didn't catch their eye, the bold model number (449) should have. I took it apart. Everything inside is dead ringer replica of a Plomb/Proto - except the strange 12-point service opening on the top of the drive plug. I found a thread on the Vintage Board and just bumped it with a bunch of photos.

 

[d42jeep]

Roger, and I agree, especially because you included the "loose" approach. No argument on the use of some type of inserts or blocking or "packing" as I remember my dad calling it, between the steel jaws and the workpiece. It's connected to the mounting discussion, though, if you're intent on having them permanently mounted on both jaws. I'm just sayin the option to buy them from that particular vise maker didn't necessarily lend any credence to the idea that most guys were permanently mounting them. That seems to be what we were generally collectively trying to figure out. If that now seems to be a standard practice, when did that happen?

I can state with certainty the these were permanently mounted on the vise I found yesterday before 1988 when the original owner passed away. Judging by their condition I suspect they were mounted long before that.
-Don

 

[txlonghorn1989]

All of those went to my neighbor’s shop since my space is quite limited here. The good thing is that they are available to borrow any time since I have a key. Here is the drill press that came from the same shed last month in it’s new home in his shop.
-Don

Well, I guess you can tell that neighbor he *****! Or maybe not. Sweet deal you got going there! Does he have a pool and a boat he let's you use as well?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Nice, Don. I saw it the other day. And it has the bench dog.

EDIT:

Thumbnails below of today's other finds after clean-up. More pics on Axes, Oilers, and Williams threads.

And here's that mini bellows (missing the nose)...

 

[d42jeep]

Looks like the same style, if not the same manufacturer as the screwdriver I picked up a couple of weeks ago. I really like the feel of it in my hand.

I did some restoration on the screwdriver. It looks a little better. I still don’t know who made it.
-Don

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Looks great. And catching the glare just right.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I haven't shown any LEFT-BEHIND stuff in awhile...

This hand-cranked table-top drill stand (Pic 1) is from last week. I wasn't interested enough to ask the price.

I just spotted the wood boxed two-layer reamer set (Pics 2 & 3) today. Complete. NOS. But he wanted $200 more than I was willing to pay for a cool but off-brand name.

I hankered after the display case (Pics 4 & 5) very badly. It came out of a jeweler's shop and the various size and shaped green felt-lined compartments on the shelves would be perfect for displaying my various 'smalls' (tiny wrenches, brica-a-brac, etc). Access is through the back, and there are even three drawers to store things not being displayed. But the price ($375) was not friendly.

 

[pelletman]

I haven't shown any LEFT-BEHIND stuff in awhile...

SNIP

I didn't realize that was a thing, but I think worse are the gems you find that the seller WON'T sell you! I couldn't buy this. No idea what it is worth, but I liked it! I thought it would go well on the front lawn somehow. Anyone have any input on value?

 

[jpickar]

Pellet man, You found a gear set for a steam traction engine, (tractor). It appears to be in very good condition. Fine for the front yard but much better on a steam traction engine.
John

 

[Old Radar]

The L is for locking, I do believe. Proto empire indicated clik-stop with an L on its adjustables.

Thanks Bimmer! Keep reading for another 4” adjustable suffix question!

Went to two sales today and got some interesting things despite missing out on a 3-1/2 inch Wilton bullet…

First stop, had an eclectic mix of brands but he definitely leaned toward Proto. Everything on the left side of the first pic is Proto (mostly LA) except the top two swivel sockets. The larger is Apex and the small one is unmarked.



It definitely was a day for swivel sockets. I had never seen the ball joint swivels before. The large stud extractor is something new for me, too. I’ll have to google how to use it.

Here is a question for the experts. The PO criminally defaced almost all his Snap-on sockets—see the first photo below—and therefore I passed on most of them. The group of three swivels at the bottom of the first photo all have the Proto name ground out. I distinctly recall reading about some company that was compelled to do that (I don’t recall which company or where I read it) but it may just be the PO’s penchant for defacing his tools. Maybe it was Plomb—can anyone recall that event?



Anyway, continuing. Snapped up a 6” S-K box with the biggest cotter pins I ever saw along with a couple of deep S-K sockets.
The group in the middle is all Snap-on, three of which are the only ones I found not defaced.
Two Wright swivels, one marked -45 and one 42+. Below them two Plomb swivels both with the arrows down/up.
Finally, I couldn’t pass up the cute little 6” Western Auto Supply pipe wrench. Forged on the reverse is MFD HB 2436—could HB be Herbrand?

Although the pricing started at $40, it ended at $25.


Second stop was a $7 mixed bag that included onesies and twosies from Proto, Barcalo, Indestro, couple of as-yet-unidentified wrenches, a New Britain socket, a very thin Indestro DOE, Vlchek, a Musselman Universal Bicycle Wrench, three Plomb WF pieces—9/32 rat & ext and 3/8 swivel—rat and swivel have the down/up arrows, Ford and Blackhawk.

Finally, another 4” adjustable—this time it’s marked with 704-S and the maker’s name has been ground off. Note the plain hanging hole with the N.3.6 code. Reverse has only Forged Alloy Steel. Plomb or Proto? PO defacing or manufacture?

 

[JABgj]

Removing the name could be done by a reseller that is not a dealer or distributor. Used to see Craftsman wrenches and other Sears branded items with the name removed or defaced at a local "Outlet" store. Might also limit warranty claims.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I didn't realize that was a thing,

If you mean showing interesting items you saw but didn't buy, for whatever reason, a few guys do it from time to time. I like to give routine, repetitive behaviors names, which is what makes them a thing, and I get a chuckle out of my own Revelations-based book/TV/movie double-entendre, i.e., Left Behind as opposed to the things in my heavenly basement that have been saved...

but I think worse are the gems you find that the seller WON'T sell you!

Oh yeah, that's a special category. I had a funny one just yesterday. There was a long steel hook with a T-handle hanging from the end of a table. I asked the seller how much and he laughed and put it back in his trailer. It was left out by accident. He uses it to reach and pull things to the tailgate so he doesn't have to keep climbing in and out. I was disappointed. It was a nice long hook!

Finally, another 4” adjustable—this time it’s marked with 704-S and the maker’s name has been ground off. Note the plain hanging hole with the N.3.6 code. Reverse has only Forged Alloy Steel. Plomb or Proto? PO defacing or manufacture?

Probably a 'lawsuit' tool. A so-called Plomb grind-off. At a time (between March 1947 and January 1949) when Plomb was being sued by Plumb for the use of their company name like a trademark. Some collectors don't subscribe to the grind-off theory, and think they were factory seconds, handed out to employees, but not before voiding any future warranty actions. I am not one of them. The chronological coincidence is just too perfect.

But, are you absolutely sure it's an "N.3.6" and not an "N.3.8"? Could be significant. It was made by J.P. Danielson, which Plomb acquired in October 1946, replacing Utica, their long-time supplier of adjustables, pliers, and pipe wrenches. The earliest Plomb tool with a J.P. Danielson date code that I have seen is December 1946. March 1946 would predate the acquisition. It would also mean the tool was in stock for quite some time before being sold, and ostensibly grinded off, by Plomb or one of their distributors.

EDIT: 2nd cup of coffee explanation for the grind-off, if that is indeed a "6" not an "8", could be the classic factory second, but in 1956. And the missing 12-point box end broach in the hanging hole could very well be the reason.

 

[Kcn15991]

Following

 

[d42jeep]

Finally, another 4” adjustable—this time it’s marked with 704-S and the maker’s name has been ground off. Note the plain hanging hole with the N.3.6 code. Reverse has only Forged Alloy Steel. Plomb or Proto? PO defacing or manufacture?

I did some checking and I believe that your 4” adjustable grind off is a post LA Proto due to the lack of broaching and reinforcement of the hanging hole.
-Don