40X60 Shop Build - Washington State

[KrucksGarage]

I am building a shop at my place that I wanted to share with the group. It's a 40' X 60' custom plan that is built into a hefty slope. The finished walls will be 18' high and it will have (3) 12x14 doors, and (1) 9x8 door. The rear concrete retaining wall/foundation is one of the 60' sides and is 9' tall concrete, and will be another 9' in height with lumber. The 40' sides cascade with the existing grade. The end above the shorter door will have a second floor room that is 15' X 40' when complete. I am at the stage now where I have all of the concrete completed including the slab and have the waterproofing for the backside almost complete. I will post recent pictures and drawings as I can. Wish me luck, so far so good!

 

[PugetDude]

Sounds like a great build; subscribed for updates.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Dirt work - I used a friend's CAT 315 excavator for the majority of the dirt work. I had a great time with this part of the project, and learned a lot as I went.

 

[KrucksGarage]

More dirt

 

[Toolfool]

Looks like you're having fun. Hope everything goes smoothly.

 

[Carl_WI]

Subscribed! I love a project that moves allot of dirt.

 

[KrucksGarage]

My little helper.

 

[KrucksGarage]

More dirt work....

 

[KrucksGarage]

Dirt work......

 

[KrucksGarage]

Yep....more dirt.

 

[ODIS]

Lots of dirt! Wow! This will be an interesting thread to follow. Would love to have a crack at running a big track hoe one day.

You will have a ton of fun going forward.

Ody.

 

[KrucksGarage]

My buddy and I had a great time with the excavator.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Lots of dirt! Wow! This will be an interesting thread to follow. Would love to have a crack at running a big track hoe one day.

You will have a ton of fun going forward.

Ody.

It has been nothing but fun so far Ody, thanks for checking it out.

 

[KrucksGarage]

On to the footing forms. Footing is 5 feet wide by 12 inches thick, since the foundation will also be retaining dirt. 30 yards of concrete in the footing.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Almost ready to pour.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Pouring the footing. This is a friend, Darryl Roberts. His company is American Concrete Co, out of Gig Harbor. I highly recommend him if you are in the service area, great guy and been in the business 35 years.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Finished footing.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Foundation forms going up.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Foundation

 

[n20junkie]

Thats some foundation! More like half a bunker.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Another 30 yards of concrete in the foundation.

 

[KrucksGarage]

From the front.

 

[KrucksGarage]

More of the foundation.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Grading inside the foundation getting ready to pour slab.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Cleaning up the backside for waterproofing spray (tuff-n-dry) and the drain board (delta drain). Then comes footing drains.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Waterproofing the foundation prior to backfill. I have a little more homework to still do on the footing drains before I backfill, there are a lot of methods out there and I am still ironing that out. Should have that done next week and have the waterproofing company back out to finish up after the backfill is about a foot from grade.

 

[KrucksGarage]

The delta drain board is also called drain mat by some people, or dimple board, the side facing the concrete looks similar to bubble wrap and maintains airspace between the waterproof membrane and the matting. It seals along the top edge with what's called a termination strip, commonly called "T-strip", which is pinned into the concrete. The company I used for this phase is "All American Waterproofing and Spray" out of Kirkland, WA. They claim that with this system, they have close to a 100% success rate against leaks. They've had a few but it's rare. My dirt is sandy as you can tell from the pictures and I have no water retention issues so it should seal up good. The main concern is always the cold joint between the footing and the foundation since they are not poured monolithicly. There is also a seal strip you can have the concrete company install in the base of the foundation forms that seals this cold joint, which I did not request just due to the dirt and waterproofing that I'm working with. There is also an additive that can be mixed into the concrete that acts as a damp proofing as well.

 

[drivesitfar]

Krucks: looks like a great new garage/shop. do you live in Gig Harbor? the soil looks pretty sandy so did you finally find some glacier till or hardpan or did you have to bring in gravel or structural dirt?

looks like you have a great assistant too. keep up the great work and i'm not far if you are in Gig Harbor and it seems like we are in Kitsap or one of the counties north of you every weekend this summer.

cheers

 

[KrucksGarage]

Before setting the rebar, I dug extra footings for a 2-post lift, and laid in a thickened area for the future 2nd floor over one bay. The lift footings are 8" beyond the bottom of the slab in depth, and measure just about 5'x5'. There is a base grid out of #4 bar on 1' centers, 2" off the dirt on dobie blocks, and the slab grid carries through the pads above that as well, 2" off of slab grade. It's redundantly reinforced, but the extra material is a minimal added cost.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Krucks: looks like a great new garage/shop. do you live in Gig Harbor? the soil looks pretty sandy so did you finally find some glacier till or hardpan or did you have to bring in gravel or structural dirt?

looks like you have a great assistant too. keep up the great work and i'm not far if you are in Gig Harbor and it seems like we are in Kitsap or one of the counties north of you every weekend this summer.

cheers

Drivesitfar: thanks, I'm having a great time with the project. It's been a little slow going but I'm doing the work as I can, and keeping a tight budget. I grew up in gig harbor, I live in the Kitsap area now, not far from there.

My lot is like a sand box with the glacial till, it's nice for doing dirt work, but a nightmare for landscaping! I haven't brought in any outside soils or rock for this project yet, I used a plate compactor before pouring any of the concrete and use sprinklers extensively to water pack the sand before hand as well. The sand works in really well when wet.

 

[KrucksGarage]

A couple views to try to show the lift footings.

 

[KrucksGarage]

The slab rebar grid is fabricated with #4 bar on 2' centers, with redundant perimeter bar.

 

[KrucksGarage]

The slab is now poured and we decided to cover the finish with water and plastic to slow the cure. I will leave this in place for about a week, then remove it, let it dry and then seal it and let it sit for the 28 day cure.

I also decided to have fiber mesh added to the mud at the plant, which should aid in crack control. I didn't put any zip strips, cut joints or anything else in it for control joints because I don't like the effects off any of them that I have used. And with all of the irregular thickened areas, there really isn't a good layout for control joints. The slab is 6" thick throughout.

 

[TraderRick]

Great project, and thanks for the detailed updates. Great info! Looking forward to new updates

 

[drivesitfar]

KRUCKS: so how many yards for the slab which BTW i like that you spent the extra money to pour it 6 inches thick? how much did all the cement work cost and other than the dirt prep did you do any of the other work? so two 30 yard pours for the walls and footings and how many yards for the slab?

looking good so far and i can see you smiling from here. keep up the good work.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Great project, and thanks for the detailed updates. Great info! Looking forward to new updates

Thanks for checking it out!

 

[KrucksGarage]

KRUCKS: so how many yards for the slab which BTW i like that you spent the extra money to pour it 6 inches thick? how much did all the cement work cost and other than the dirt prep did you do any of the other work? so two 30 yard pours for the walls and footings and how many yards for the slab?

looking good so far and i can see you smiling from here. keep up the good work.

With the added material of the footings, it wound up being over 50 yards, I want to say 56 yards, but I'll verify on my invoice and let you know for sure later.

I hired all of the concrete work out through Darryl at American Concrete. He treated me extremely well and I simply don't have the experience needed for this scale of a job. I did the dirt work with some help from my friend who owns that CAT, so that was a shared effort. Darrly and his guys did the structural concrete and the flat work both, and all said and done was just under $30K.

 

[jeff_gates]

It sounds like we are close, I'm in Olalla kinda, we live near SF but building in Olalla.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/30157784@N06/

--Jeff

 

[madoc1]

looking good so far. that's pretty country. is the concrete guy located on the island?

jim

 

[KrucksGarage]

It sounds like we are close, I'm in Olalla kinda, we live near SF but building in Olalla.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/30157784@N06/

--Jeff

Hi Jeff, yea you're just across the highway from me. By SF are you talking about San Francisco but you're building here?