Thanks for the replies, fellas. It seems every time I'd dig into this project, something would strike and months would pass before I had time again to pick up where I left off. But despite those setbacks, I've been slowly chipping away at this one as there are many house projects I really want to start rolling my sleeves up and get done. Having a dedicated space for wood related projects would be ideal. I noted it would take me about an hour to set up everything (and then break it down for the night) whenever I started a project on the house. So this should save some time on that front.
This past February I put in some time to make more shelving parts similar to what I have in the Metal Shop. These are for a work bench / drop saw bench. Some shots of the work stop to machine all the holes and parts being assembled/tacked:
Monday after work I turned the welder up to 150 amps and marched through all those welds finally.
Here's a shot as I was removing the last of the 2x12 dimensioned lumber that lined the old horse stalls (this was a horse barn again for everyone's reference).
Here's one of the walls before I installed the window:
About 40 years worth of critter activity was in between those walls...
I also got a vinyl cutter for anodizing titanium (used as a masking system for logos/designs) but I've been using it for other fun stuff like window dressing...
Metal Shop!
Wood Shop!
And if anyone is wondering, here are some samples of what I've been doing with Ti anodizing. If you're not familiar with the process itself, it's not like aluminum anodizing where the material is dipped into a heated bath of dye. With Titanium anodizing, you use an electrolytic bath and when combined with specific voltages, you grow an oxide layer on the surface of the titanium workpiece. That oxide layer's thickness is determined by the voltage set (typically colors range from 10 Volts through to 100-110 volts). And that oxide layer thickness then determines what interference colors your eyes receive. Otherwise, the oxide layer is completely transparent for lack of better terminology. It's quite fascinating and it occurs instantaneously. The vinyl is simply used as a resist to mask off what is exposed to the electrolytic solution.
Here's the full color spectrum starting at 15 volts (First "F" of Fortyfour") and ending at 105 Volts in 10 volt increments in the "R":
And some designs / fades on frames I've recently been doing. This group is for a Fat Bike hence some winter themes:
This one's on a mountain bike:
And here's a more defined color spectrum in 10 Volt Increments:
Here's that Mountain bike masked:
And a test in 17 Volts which produces a bronze-ish copper color:
More on the Wood Shop as things progress. Going to insulate that last wall this evening.