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5'x8' Trailer Build

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f150skidoo

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Thanks for all the compliments guys, I'm hoping to have everything buttoned up by the end of the weekend, Hopefully tomorrow i will have the hydraulics functioning.
 
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f150skidoo

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I got the hydraulics all working and I was tickled pink by how well it works. For scale those garage doors behind the trailer are 8' tall. It dumps at a much steeper angle then i thought, around 50 degrees when I checked it with a angle finder. The pump is power up and down but when I was playing with it i drained the battery so it wouldn't power down. luckily it will let you gravity down as long as you have enough juice to open the electric diverting valve. I need to add rubber bump stops since the body bangs the lower frame on its way down.
 

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f150skidoo

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Wow, just WOW . . . . . Great result !!! :thumbup: . . :beer:
That will be highly desired . . . Can I Borrow Tool . . . . from your friends !! ;)

Curious to see how your rolling tarp works and "tie-downs" to sides ??

Do you have method to add side boards and tail board to enable FILLING up to the top if you have light-weight material like mulch, etc. ???

P.S. Can you show us PIC's of the dump process ??

The tarp will have a steel pipe that will hook into the 2 hooks on the rear part you will wind the tarp up tight and the ratcheting mechanism will prevent the tarp from unwinding. 2x10s will fit in the pockets on the sides but i haven't decided if i should make the rear door the same height as the lower bent steel or the height of the 2x10s.

f150


What do you estimate you have in the trailer both cost and time wise?

I probably have around 60-70 hrs in it and around $3500.
 

Farrier

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Build the gates to match the height of the trailer. I think it'll look goofy if you make them shorter. Your trailer turned out really nice guy.
 
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f150skidoo

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Not a lot of progress, got my side boards installed and the tarp roller also. I did a few small odds and ends on the trailer but didn't take any pics. tomorrow I'm going to fabricate the rear doors.
 

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f150skidoo

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Started to build the barn doors this afternoon after a long morning off recovering from last night alcohol induced adventure. I wanted to skin the door with sheet metal before I welded anything out to help keep it square. But I thought I had a lot more sheet metal then I actually have, so I will have to wait until tomorrow to get some more material. The reason I didn't put anything across the top is I'm going to bend the sheet metal the same way as the sides on my brake.
 

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f150skidoo

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Did some more fabrication today, Got the rear skin bent up like the sides. My brake isn't heavy enough for the 16 ga sheet so i took it over to a friends box pan brake and bent them up there. His brake didn't have enough clearance to bend the last bend fully so we had to do some improvising to get it the rest of the way. Since we hand bent the one angle by clamping it to a a piece of tubing it wasn't perfect. So I had to do some major clamping when I was welding the skin to the frame to get bulges out of the sheet metal. These are the hold backs and latch that I'm using on the barn doors.
 

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f150skidoo

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One of the other trailers I built I also used spring latches but I welded them on, I needed to replace it and after all the cutting and grinding I swore to never weld them on again. So this time I'm drilling and tapping the steel and using #10 machine screws. Welded on a piece of 2.5" .188" flat stock to cover the gap between the two doors to prevent material being hauled from spilling out. I still need to make the bracket that keeps the door latched and also attach the door hold backs, won't have time for a week or so to do that work.
 

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Farrier

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Good call on adding the flat stock to mind the gap.

What are your plans for securing the tops of the great gates? The dumps I've seen have had drop pins on the top & bottom of the gates.
 
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f150skidoo

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Good call on adding the flat stock to mind the gap.

What are your plans for securing the tops of the great gates? The dumps I've seen have had drop pins on the top & bottom of the gates.

My thought process was with the two lower latch pins and the rear flat stock it should make the separate doors act like one piece. What I will do is run it like it is and if needed I could weld on two tabs above the rear handles and put a lynch pin connecting the two doors together
 
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Farrier

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My thought process was with the two lower latch pins and the rear flat stock it should make the separate doors act like one piece. What I will do is run it like it is and if needed I could weld on two tabs above the rear handles and put a lynch pin connecting the two doors together

:thumbup:

Keep the pics rolling!
 
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f150skidoo

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I almost got all the odds and ends buttoned up on the trailer. the bracket that hold the rear door shut is 1/4" plate that I bent in my press brake. The reason for the bend is you can latch the doors automatically with out the need of lifting the red handle. I finally took it out for a test pull the other day and it pulled great you couldn't feel it behind the 1/2 ton. Since the angle of the doors when fully open I couldn't use the provided female end hold backs. So I made new ones out of 2" 1/8" angle that I cut the new T slot on the mill. One day when it stops raining I fill weld the two angle pieces on and install the tarp.
 

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f150skidoo

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So were finally 100% done the trailer Got the tarp installed and functioning as planned also got the DOT tape on to give it the factory made look. I scaled the trailer at 1770 lbs empty so I'm good for 5230 payload. Would've got this post done a lot sooner but now everyone who have seen the trailer wants me to fabricate stuff for them so paying jobs took precedent's over the finishing of the dump trailer. Hope you guys enjoyed reading the build.
 

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readhead

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Turned out great. Should be pretty handy for the work you do. It'll save a lot of delivery charges for just a little bit of sand.
 

bullnerd

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Absolutely enjoyed it, thanks for sharing and congrats on your new trailer.

Whats next?
 

CNGsaves

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AWESOME completed setup . . . . I'd LOVE to have that baby !!! :thumbup:

Curious why you went with porous tarp material ?? I'd prefer waterproof that could be stretched taut so it would keep water out of trailer if necessary. Often storing partial load of debris overnight when it rains, it's great to keep that dry otherwise you pay for water weight when the load it taken later to landfill.

I'd also like tarp to go over edge so you could use bungee straps to pull it down tight like they do on grain trucks. Would be cool to have "bow bar" that you would install between the two sidewalls that would arch the tarp up to keep water off as well.

I'm not complaining . . . just curious what you'll haul ?? :dunno:
 

kerrynzl

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Tauranga, New Zealand
I almost got all the odds and ends buttoned up on the trailer. the bracket that hold the rear door shut is 1/4" plate that I bent in my press brake. The reason for the bend is you can latch the doors automatically with out the need of lifting the red handle. I finally took it out for a test pull the other day and it pulled great you couldn't feel it behind the 1/2 ton. Since the angle of the doors when fully open I couldn't use the provided female end hold backs. So I made new ones out of 2" 1/8" angle that I cut the new T slot on the mill. One day when it stops raining I fill weld the two angle pieces on and install the tarp.

On the pic of the spring-bolts, can I make a suggestion.

On the L/H spring-bolt remove it and drive out the L/H stopper pin with a punch. and do the opposite on the R/H side.

You'll also need to knock the roll-pin to one-side

That way you can flip the bolt levers away from each other in "Auto slam mode".
You flip the bolt levers towards from each other to hold them open.
If somebody accidentally knocks the bolt lever around, it automatically defaults into "Auto slam mode"

Right now you need the bolt levers to be central to do this, and if they're to the side, the roll pin will go behind the stoppers trying to bend them if you slam it.

shown here

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=387441&d=1416298160

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=387442&d=1416298160
 
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f150skidoo

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Absolutely enjoyed it, thanks for sharing and congrats on your new trailer.

Whats next?

I'm Actually mid progress on a 44,000 lb horizontal/vertical log splitter thats powered by a 9hp honda and a 11 gpm pump

AWESOME completed setup . . . . I'd LOVE to have that baby !!! :thumbup:

Curious why you went with porous tarp material ?? I'd prefer waterproof that could be stretched taut so it would keep water out of trailer if necessary. Often storing partial load of debris overnight when it rains, it's great to keep that dry otherwise you pay for water weight when the load it taken later to landfill.

I'd also like tarp to go over edge so you could use bungee straps to pull it down tight like they do on grain trucks. Would be cool to have "bow bar" that you would install between the two sidewalls that would arch the tarp up to keep water off as well.

I'm not complaining . . . just curious what you'll haul ?? :dunno:

I mainly haul sand, mulch, top soil, brush, and ruble so a solid tarp to keep the water out isn't a huge priority for me. The main purpose for the mesh tarp is to prevent the material like mulch from getting airborne.
 

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G_P

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Wow! That trailer is beautiful. You have some excellent fabrication skills.

I would think about adding a manual valve to lower the dump body though. Just incase of an electrical failure while the body is raised.
 
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f150skidoo

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Wow! That trailer is beautiful. You have some excellent fabrication skills.

I would think about adding a manual valve to lower the dump body though. Just incase of an electrical failure while the body is raised.

The pump is power up and down but if there isnt enough power to run the hydraulic pump it will gravity down.
 

Techie1961

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Pickering Ontario Canada
I just found this thread while looking at the new one that you made about your stump grapple. Great job on the trailer and nice to see that you're a fellow Ontarian.
 

Fixed

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That looks awesome, absolutely appears to be factory-made. Did you have to do anything to get it cleared for road-use?
 
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f150skidoo

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Thanks for the comments guys, registering home made trailers in Ontario is a piece of cake. All they ask for is the empty weight, GVWR, if it has brakes and the colour. After you answer those question they give you the plate and say that will be $20 sir! and that's it.
 

chrispyny

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albany, ny
I also just found this while following your stump grapple. This is AWESOME!!!!

There is only ONE thing i am concerned with. As previously mentioned, the hooks at the back for the tarp bar are SCARY.
Only suggesting, but i bet you could get some simple flat stock, plasma out a simple fat letter C out of it, and weld it back up. No eye gouging hook, all soft edges.
Seriously awesome fab work!
 
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f150skidoo

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So a little update on the dump trailer, Since completion I've hauled around 25-30,000 lbs of material in it. Like concrete, branches/brush, stumps, and soil. I picked up 3 yards of triple mix garden soil and that was my max gvwr and almost max of volume, but it dumped the load. I ended up doing a little MOD on it today. Normally I wouldn't post something small like this, but its so inexpensive and handy I decided to share. I've needed a shovel several times with this trailer to level out a load or wet dirt sticking in the corners but never had a shovel handy. I saw these clamps on Amazon for $10, their UV and weather resistant rubber clamps that can hold 25 lbs each. So now I have shovel always mounted on the trailer for whenever I need it.
 

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f150skidoo

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So over the next few days I'm going to be posting add-on's, changes, and modifications to the trailer. After several months of use you realize of stuff you want to change to the trailer or wish you added when I built it originally.


So the first change was something several you posted about when I was building the trailer, and that's the tarp hooks! The old hooks didn't stand a chance when I hit them with the bucket of my skid steer. The new ones are made of 3/8" plate that I cut the C shape into.
 

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