7 x 18 utility trailer.

[koditten]

1/8 wall will be strong enough for hauling cars and light trucks or anything lighter.

 

[CNGsaves]

Just an FYI it's illegal and dangerous to attach the safety chains like that. They either need to be bolted (the best way, grade 8 bolts/nuts/washers) or attached to something (cold rolled steel) that is welded to the frame. The chains themselves CAN NOT be welded directly to the frame.

Got a 5x10 enclosed Load-Runner trailer and safety chains are each on a steel U that is welded to frame. A lightweight mesh 5x12 utility trailer I have also are on rings that are welded to the frame.

However, got an ancient 1980's camper that has safety chains that appear to be added after-the-fact and they are welded to frame directy. It's hitch is so heavy-duty I'd doubt it would ever come off unless the ball itself broke.

 

[koditten]

Shameless bump.

Had a customer ask about something similar. Its just easier to put him in front of the computer and let him see vs. me telling him how I build trailers.

Later

KO

 

[Rich1028]

nice trailer!
my wife talked on the phone with you a week back.
we were asking about a 5x8.
nice to see your stuff on here.

 

[koditten]

Well, now you know how it is done, you can build your own to take up north. I do have a similar build to what you were asking about. Search for 5 x 10 utility trailer build.

I love to help people build their own as well as build them.

KO

 

[koditten]

Again, posting for newer members. Hopefully the info is useful.
Bump.
KO

 

[koditten]

Bumping for people who have asked.

Kirk

 

[460Rustang]

Very cool,.............

 

[HellaFab]

Im looking to build a light car hauler for a 2000lb race machine without a top rail. Any idea what size material you would use for the main members?

Nice work!

 

[koditten]

How many axles?

 

[HellaFab]

Hoping just to have a single axle.

 

[koditten]

Bumping for others that have asked.

KO

 

[koditten]

I 've been getting ?'s asked about my trailers, thought I would bump my build thread.

 

[gearhead1]

Time to build my fenders. I use 14 gauge sheet steel bent into 10" wide channel. The lip is 1". My fenders may not look as good as store bought fenders, but they are a whole lot stronger. I can stand on my fenders after they are properly mounted with no fear of bending them. My way is alot cheaper as well. I pay around 50 bucks for the pair. 1 store bought fender can be 70+.

Anyways, I notch the fenders at 10" and 8". This gives me the length I need to cover the tire properly. Do the same for the other end. I have my angle gauge set to find this angle preset. I am only trying to get close on the angle. The only thing I care about the verticle section is perfectly plumb. You can see the bends in the notches. This allows me to bend the channel a bit easier. I put the channel on the floor and bend it by hand. I have clamped to the steel table, but I was in a bit of a hurry.

KO

Is the 14ga material with the 1" flanges an off the shelf product or do you or have a fab shop bend the flanges? I've replaced my fenders a couple times, would love to have something stronger.

 

[koditten]

I have the fab shop bend up the sheet steel into a channel shape. Very little labor cost have this done.

 

[brycez28]

Very nice work! Do you do enclosed trailers?

 

[drivesitfar]

KOD: I think you've built quite a few trailers and just wondering if you've found a great way to mount wood onto a metal frame.

also is there a good place to buy the wheel the attaches up by the hitch to roll it around on and that flips up? I've seen some that are pretty cheesy and wondered if anybody makes one with some quality features?

thanks

 

[koditten]

No enclosed trailers, sorry.

The wood to the steel needs to have some sort of barrier. The newer treated lumber is corrosive to iron I just apply an extra heavy coat of bedliner material to the steel. Help slow down corrosion. I'm in michigan, so all you can do is slow down rust. I use self tapping 1/4" torx head screws.

For tandem axle trailer axle trailers, a wheeled tongue jack doesn't work. A person can not push it and turn it because of the scrubbing of tires, at least not very easily.

So far, I have not found a decent wheeled tongue jack that wasn't stupid expensive. Most people don't realize that these jacks are to move an empty trailer only. I do 5 or 6 repairs on boat trailers per year because people move their loaded boat trailer. Actually have one to repair presently.

 

[drivesitfar]

KOD: thanks for the information. i'm just restoring a little 4 x 8 utililty and maybe making 18 or 24 inch sides for it probably out of Cedar since I have some handy.

the little wheel in the front of my old aluminum trailer is what i'm looking for that I think you mentioned isn't good for the bigger trailers or ones with boats on them. yes?

 

[koditten]

For that trailer, u would have no trouble with the Harbor Freight 2500 pound flip up jack with wheel. Get a 20% off coupon and you could have it shipped to you for less than $30. They work good for liguy duty trailers.

 

[drivesitfar]

KOD: I've only bought one item from HF (propane brush burner) and that was over a year ago and it's still in the box. my trailer already weighs about 500 pounds and i'm still going to put on sides and possibly a metal floor so was hoping for something a little nicer to roll it around on. also sometimes it's pouring down rain and I'll have a loaded trailer to push into my storage unit so I can empty it in the morning if the rain has stopped. I had maybe 3000 pounds on that little aluminum 4 x 8 trailer at times so would have to make sure it was a level or down hill push into storage if I chose that option.

I don't mind spending $50-100 for one if it's a LOT better than HF's, but if they are not much better I don't mind only spending $30 either because i'll just have more old vintage tool funds to spend.

thanks again