'78 F350 Dually Project

[madoc1]

Fiddling with waterproof connectors and heat shrink tubing this morning. Hoping I got everything straight.

Ran the battery down trying to get it to fire back up. Waiting on the charger.

just finished your thread after two days! very nice job on the truck. so do you think the gas tank clogging up caused the engine problems? i see in the pic that you have an edelbrock performer manifold and a holley double pumper carb. that should make it run pretty darn good.
i bought a 76 250 camper special back about 87 for $50. no brakes smashed windshield. smashed hood and roof. also shocks were gone, the frt. end bushings were completely gone on the drivers side so it leaned over. it also had a 390 that only ran on 5 cylinders due to bad valves. fixed it all up except paint and drove many miles until sold. wish i still had that one.

jim

 

[HOTFR8]

Time to allow RivennHewn to tell us more about what is going on.

Edit: Some posts have been removed after a request.

 

[RivennHewn]

Drives,

Funny you mention my boat. I sold it on Saturday. I posted it at 10:00, and by 4:00 it was gone.

I was hoping to take it out 1 more time on Sunday, with it being soooo hot.
Instead we spent the day boat shopping.

Madoc1,

It appears it was the fuel line/pick up in the tank that was starving it out. New tank line and filter, and it runs great! Will need to see some pics of that FJ in your avatar soon.

Thanks HOTFR8,
Do we tell you enough how much we all appreciate all you do here at GJ

 

[RivennHewn]

Almost forgot to post up the install of the single most important accessory for any truck, regardless of the model, make or year:
The Gun Rack

Took a while, but I searched the interwebs and found the real ones. Not no cheesey, flimsy, pressed tin foil or plastic POS **** ones.

I had to use the vise and hammer to adjust the top mounting angle to my truck.

Anyway, as any contractor knows, gun racks are great for holding a 4' level and a rolled up set of blue prints (70's slang for building plans).

With such limited storage in these trucks, you can't let any space go unused.

 

[madoc1]

rivenn, it's a 75 model with just over 49k on it. mainly stock except for the 355 chevy engine and a few cosmetic changes. i also added ps and an electric cooling fan. thx for asking.

jim

 

[RivennHewn]

rivenn, it's a 75 model with just over 49k on it. mainly stock except for the 355 chevy engine and a few cosmetic changes. thx for asking.

jim

I love my truck, but let me know when you want to trade!

 

[mcmlvif100]

Almost forgot to post up the install of the single most important accessory for any truck, regardless of the model, make or year:

The Gun Rack

With such limited storage in these trucks, you can't let any space go unused.

Dad mounted a similar old school gun rack to the back of the bench seat in his F-100. Clean and neat, it fit like Ford had intended it that way. Guns were out of sight but easily accessible when you folded the seat back forward.

 

[RivennHewn]

mcmlvif100,

Must not have had a tank behind the seat.

You have pics of your F100 to post?

 

[RivennHewn]

Pointless exercise?

Not sure if tonight's fun and games will actually be worth anything.

I want to start on the cab lights and in general, the overall lighting and electrical plan. (Probably my weakest link)

Started by removing the headliner to get to the wiring, and found the center roof support was separated from the roof. I ran a big, gooey bead of Sikaflex, and propped the support up tight to the ceiling.

I'll leave this alone for a few days for the adhesive to cure.

The roof doesn't appear to have been caved in like so many you see.

I also removed the sun visors. Very dirty, but they'll clean up well.

 

[Toolfool]

Keep this up and you'll have this truck ready for Greenwood next year.

 

[RivennHewn]

Keep this up and you'll have this truck ready for Greenwood next year.

Gotta have goals, got to have goals.

I'll save the spot next to me for ya!

 

[mcmlvif100]

mcmlvif100,

Must not have had a tank behind the seat.

You have pics of your F100 to post?

Was in his '56 F-100 and the tank was still in the stock location behind the seat but, knowing him, he probably reworked the rack to fit into the concave shape of the seat back. As I recall, there wasn't much to the seat back and it didn't have any covering on the back.

Sorry, no pictures. Don't always think to take them at the time, and then it's too late. Plus, it's probably been 50+ years since I last saw the gun rack installation in that truck. Just recall thinking that it was an elegant solution.

 

[RivennHewn]

Just keep measuring...

Twice isn't enough. Kinda nerve racking knowing if you screw up drilling holes in your cab roof, everybody's gonna know

Layout on the cab lights. If I remember, the factory lights are a little asymmetrical. Not sure if I got this right or not.

Anybody got cab lights they want to run outside and measure for me

Sometimes the right tool for the job is in Momma's sewing basket.

Maybe I shoulda shed a few pounds before taking this project on.

 

[shedfullatools]

Truck is coming along beautifully One of the most stressful jobs I've done on a vehicle is drilling fifteen holes for clearance lights so I know where you're coming from At the same time I will never own a truck without them, they really tie things together

 

[RivennHewn]

Thanks Shedfullatools,

I looked at the lights at a number of different layouts/spacings.

I googled image searched them as well.

I finally decided I like the look of equally space symmetrical lights. Which just added to the anxiety of getting all 15 holes right, the 1st time.

Drill, deburr, paint, insert Rivnut. 15 holes, and I'm pretty happy with how they came out.

 

[Lwel9226]

Use non rusting type screws in your rivnuts, (stainless or brass) and a little anti-seize can't hurt either. You will thank yourself later, if one needs repair or replaced.......

Lynn W

 

[kbs2244]

It is too late now.
But in this day and age they just glue the lights, even the luggage racks, on.

 

[Toolfool]

Gotta have goals, got to have goals.

I'll save the spot next to me for ya!

I appreciate the offer, but I don't know if I can do car shows anymore.

 

[RivennHewn]

Lwel9226,

I'm reusing the stainless screws from the 1st time these were installed on the other truck. Thanks for reminding me about the anti seize though. Good call.

kbs2244,

I could see that working well with some of the new lights, but these are set up for screws. I didn't want to buy another set, so I removed them from the other truck.

Tool,

Can't say I've ever had a car worth showing. Can't say I ever will.

 

[RivennHewn]

Just for fun.....
Silly Ebay impulse buy(that I kinda like)

Period correct rotating light. Non of that LED blinky-blink stuff on this old truck.

Cab clearance light install compete.

Thankfully I pulled the wiring harness off Connie. Made things that much easier.

 

[RivennHewn]

Mailman brought me my next project.

Dual battery setup kit.

 

[RivennHewn]

Here is the diagram they included with the kit. Kinda vague.

Seems there is more than one way to wire up a dual battery system.

anybody got a better way?

And because I'm a noob with anything 12V, where would the starter solenoid/ starter be in the diagram?

 

[Toolfool]

Keeping an eye on this part. Planning to add a second battery too (when I have the vehicle).

 

[RivennHewn]

I also need to wire in an inverter. Not sure how that would fit in the diagram either.

I'm thinking I could use some professional help here.

Doing Ebay/Amazon searches, I don't recognize any manufactures of inverters.

A recommendation would be much appreciated.

 

[Toolfool]

Youtube . The PAC-200 is your solenoid/relay.

 

[kbs2244]

Typically, a battery isolator kit is used in a camper type install.

While driving the truck charging system charges both batteries, but the idea is that the camper battery use overnight will not draw down the truck starter battery to the point the truck will not start in the AM.

If you are going to use it in a electric/hydraulic install just follow the camper install directions.
Your power unit battery will be the "camper" battery.

 

[Lwel9226]

Typically, a battery isolator kit is used in a camper type install.

While driving the truck charging system charges both batteries, but the idea is that the camper battery use overnight will not draw down the truck starter battery to the point the truck will not start in the AM.

If you are going to use it in a electric/hydraulic install just follow the camper install directions.
Your power unit battery will be the "camper" battery.

This is an easy install and works good when done right.....

Lynn W

 

[drivesitfar]

Riv: nice work on the lights and best of luck on the double battery wiring. just curious is that DE BURRING tool a Harbor freight brand or do tell?

are you planning on using the flashing light like Starsky & Hutch and setting it on top of the cab when you are running people off the road?

cheers and have a great 4th of July. even if you might not have a boat today i bet you will find something to do.

 

[kimosawboy]

Not sure if this link will show up or not, its over at Expedition Portal..I have had it bookmarked for for when I get around to this project..(on page 3/4 its gets into solar)
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...-setup-for-50?highlight=wiring+dual+batteries

 

[txvwnut]

I built some inspection vans a few years ago and bought inverters through a place called inverters-r-us, http://invertersrus.com

 

[RivennHewn]

Because I can be a little "Thick"....

Is the new isolater/solenoid a replacement for, or in addition to, the original starter solenoid? Nowhere in the simple instructions, or any of the youtube videos seems clear to me.

Do I just run the original starter solenoid off the battery as usual? Or does it hook up to the new isolater/solenoid?



Drives,
The deburing tool is from the Yardstore.
http://www.yardstore.com/?gclid=Cj0...VUjUylP0_mkeDqepYZ9YFB6Aj3foKPQhz8aAgq48P8HAQ


Thanks again for all your patience, input and links.
Quite possibly, with all your help, I just may get this done.

 

[txvwnut]

The isolator "solenoid"is actually a switch and nothing like a solenoid. The way you want to wire it is to pull another wire from the charge side of the alternator, you could come straight from the alt or just pull it from the battery side of your starter solenoid, then to the isolator switch. Then you will go from the other side of the isolator switch to the auxiliary battery. You will need a switched ignition power going to the isolator to engage it when the key is on and the truck is running and off when it's not so if you are using the auxiliary battery as a power source you won't kill the main battery.

Starter solenoids are not designed to have power on them all the time, if you do wire one that way it won't last long. Battery switches that look like solenoids are designed to have power applied all the time but aren't capable of a high current load that a solenoid is.

 

[kerrynzl]

The isolator "solenoid"is actually a switch and nothing like a solenoid. The way you want to wire it is to pull another wire from the charge side of the alternator, you could come straight from the alt or just pull it from the battery side of your starter solenoid, then to the isolator switch. Then you will go from the other side of the isolator switch to the auxiliary battery. You will need a switched ignition power going to the isolator to engage it when the key is on and the truck is running and off when it's not so if you are using the auxiliary battery as a power source you won't kill the main battery.

Starter solenoids are not designed to have power on them all the time, if you do wire one that way it won't last long. Battery switches that look like solenoids are designed to have power applied all the time but aren't capable of a high current load that a solenoid is.

You are correct, the isolator switch is a H/D relay

I've done this similar way as you mentioned [for charging a battery on a trailer]

But I've used 2 methods to trigger the isolator switch.
1 method was to wire the isolating switch to be triggered when the lights were on.
This method is good for trailers because I can mount the isolating switch on the trailer with the battery and Tee-off the taillight circuit[probably not applicable here]

The other method was to wire the isolating switch to be triggered via an oil pressure activated switch in series with the ignition key.[you can use the existing grounding type switch via a reverse post relay to trigger the isolating switch ]
This method prevents battery discharge if the key is left on without the engine running

 

[RivennHewn]

I really do appreciate your responses on this. (Getting the terminology straight helps)

Here's a little clip to show my progress today:

And a pic

Wish there was a little more room to spread them out a little bit more, then It could have been a little cleaner, but it'll do. Need a few more cable clamps to keep it straight, a ground, and to pick a source/tie in for the ignition.

Oh, and buy another battery

 

[RivennHewn]

A case of "Bigger is better"?

Starting to look at batteries. A good opportunity to educate myself on yet another subject.

For an accessory battery, would I be looking for Cold Cranking Amps, Cranking amps, or Reserve time capacity? (I'm assuming reserve time capacity.)

Regular VS. Deep Cycle? (My guess is deep cycle. But they take longer to charge?)

If a value brand battery has better specs than a premium brand battery?

The one I'm looking at has: (value brand)

950 CCA
1190 CA
195 AH reserve capacity.

 

[HOTFR8]

For your second battery I would go deep cycle considering you plan to run an inverter.

 

[RivennHewn]

One Step closer......


Adding the 2nd battery has me one step closer to being a functional work truck.

The rubber loading dock bumpers have me one step closer to Bonneville.

 

[Perrorojo]

Here is the diagram they included with the kit. Kinda vague.

Seems there is more than one way to wire up a dual battery system.

anybody got a better way?

And because I'm a noob with anything 12V, where would the starter solenoid/ starter be in the diagram?

scroll to page 2 and see if this diagram makes more sense.

http://www.precisioncircuitsinc.com...0041-2xx-Battery-Isolation-Manager-Rev7-1.pdf

 

[Perrorojo]

A case of "Bigger is better"?

Starting to look at batteries. A good opportunity to educate myself on yet another subject.

For an accessory battery, would I be looking for Cold Cranking Amps, Cranking amps, or Reserve time capacity? (I'm assuming reserve time capacity.)

Regular VS. Deep Cycle? (My guess is deep cycle. But they take longer to charge?)

If a value brand battery has better specs than a premium brand battery?

The one I'm looking at has: (value brand)

950 CCA
1190 CA
195 AH reserve capacity.

Remember, if the inverter is on it will drain the battery. You'll want to isolate the inverter battery with a disconnect that has a low voltage cut off. You don't want the inverter to run the start battery down too low to start the truck.

 

[RivennHewn]

Perrorojo,

Thanks for the link.

The battery I went with is a deep cycle with a reserve capacity of 750.
With the isolator, the inverter will only draw from the auxiliary battery, not the starter battery.