'78 F350 Dually Project

[C_F]

That steering wheel is worse than the one on my '70 Charger when I bought it in '86. This one was even glittery.

 

[RivennHewn]

That steering wheel is worse than the one on my '70 Charger when I bought it in '86. This one was even glittery.

Dude, that wheel is groovy, and far out

 

[PugetDude]

That steering wheel is worse than the one on my '70 Charger when I bought it in '86. This one was even glittery.

Dude, that wheel is groovy, and far out

Nothing says '70's street rod like a metalflake steering wheel.

 

[RivennHewn]

Starting off the new year by tearing things up!

Found a few more issues that need attention.
The passenger side fender has some heavy bondo, a rip in the sheet metal, and a rusted mounting hole.

I could take the time to repair all this, or just by a new replacement.

There is a big price difference for the fender from LMC, Summit Racing, and a few Ebay sellers. Prices range from $139 to over $400.

Anyone with any experience buying replacement panels? I've heard some are really thin, and have fitment issues.

Any recommendations, or advise on who to stay away from?

 

[Strouty]

First of all, I just can't understand how that is January 1st, there are lots of green leaves and plants, what gives???

Have you checked the local junkyards, seems like things don't really rot around there, so you might find a decent one. They make a magnet thingy that can check for bondo too.

 

[RivennHewn]

We’re still itching for some snow here in Seattle. Might have to head up to the mountains. This 33 degrees and rain thing is getting old.

Junk yards around here don’t keep older vehicles, they go straight to the recycling. Kinda *****.

I’ve got a few leads, just need to put some time in on it.

Best to you for a wonderful ‘19

 

[Strouty]

Same to you!

I bet there are some old salvage yards run by hoarders somewhere in your neck of the woods.

 

[RivennHewn]

Managed to get one door swing'n today

Even by myself, it actually went pretty easy. The HF hydraulic lift cart made a great helper.

I installed most of the guts. The outside handle, key, and glass will go in after paint.

Final adjustments will happen after the fender goes back on.

Then, on to the other side.......

 

[1/2 Cup]

Nice work Riven

 

[RivennHewn]

Nice work Riven

Thanks 1/2 Cup.

I’m just happy to be seeing some progress!

 

[Toolfool]

Progress !!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Thank you. It's coming along.



As soon as I get this door prepped, it's just about ready for paint. Then I can put the interior door panels in, and all the door seals.



Really looking forward to being done with the paint and interior



Then it will be onto some oil leaks and a new exhaust.



Also need to tighten up the steering. Anybody add a front end sway bar to one of these old trucks?

I added a bar to my ‘66 and it’s unreal how much difference it made.

Nice to see progress! I have owned at least 10 diff 73-79 trucks and really like them. Ordered a new 1979 loaded Lariat trim with 460 and it was 7400.00. Still have order form.


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[RivennHewn]

I added a bar to my ‘66 and it’s unreal how much difference it made.

Nice to see progress! I have owned at least 10 diff 73-79 trucks and really like them. Ordered a new 1979 loaded Lariat trim with 460 and it was 7400.00. Still have order form.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

TimeWarp,

Would be cool to see a pic of the original order form. Post it up if you find the time.

I'll be adding the steering stabilizer at some point, but right now it's all paint, all the time. Trying to be singularly focused.

Except that I was replacing the PCV valve and bumped this stupid thingy.

Didn't realize it had completely rusted out. Engine started running and sounding really bad. Must have been failing for some time.

I believe it's the Exhaust Heat Control valve, but the PO just capped it off.

I could be wrong. I don't really remember working on one before.

Help me out if I'm wrong.

 

[RivennHewn]

So here is a pic of a tube similar to mine, that rusted out.

Brings hot exhaust gases back into the intake, for smoother running engines at cold temps.

PO deleted it part of the system and plugged it. I tried to remove the whole assembly.

Problem is, it's too close to the firewall.

I need to move the firewall, or the engine

Guess who isn't pulling an engine today????

Decided to pull a johnny home owner fix to get by for a bit.

Plugged the hole with some JB Weld epoxy.

Running/sounding better already!



Also mounted the driver side fender. All skim coat painted and wet sanded out side and undercoated inside.

 

[RivennHewn]

Employed a little "Ratchet strap" panel alignment this afternoon.

Getting close now.........

 

[PugetDude]

Nicely shaped blob; looks exactly like the dark side of the moon.

 

[bluebolt]

RivennHewn I believe the part that rusted away is the air pump check valve. Does your engine still have an air pump? The air pump system pumps more air into the exhaust to help burn fuel that was unburnt in the combustion process. It does not go into the intake system to help warm up the engine.

 

[RivennHewn]

Nicely shaped blob; looks exactly like the dark side of the moon.

I thought it looked “Factory”

 

[zmotorsports]

That EGR crossover tube along the back of the heads were a PITA to work around. On my 1988 F250/460 cid I had one break on vacation and had to change it in a parking lot in a small town in Colorado one year. Access was less than ideal to say the least.

 

[RivennHewn]

RivennHewn I believe the part that rusted away is the air pump check valve. Does your engine still have an air pump? The air pump system pumps more air into the exhaust to help burn fuel that was unburnt in the combustion process. It does not go into the intake system to help warm up the engine.

Thanks. The PO deleted the pump, and plugged it.
Maybe why it rusted out.

That EGR crossover tube along the back of the heads were a PITA to work around. On my 1988 F250/460 cid I had one break on vacation and had to change it in a parking lot in a small town in Colorado one year. Access was less than ideal to say the least.

“Limited access”

 

[RivennHewn]

Decided to go ahead and replace the front shocks. They were toast.

There wasn't any return pressure.

Totally dead.

Used the floor jack under the frame, and the jack out of my other truck to control the I-beam height. Went super easy.

while shopping online, I saw the rubber boots. They were cheap, and should help the truck go faster.

I measured the front end height before and after. Raised by 1/2".

Next, I'm ordering the steering stabilizer.

 

[PugetDude]

while shopping online, I saw the rubber boots. They were cheap, and should help the truck go faster.

Better watch yourself, Riven. Besides making it go faster, they will also improve handling, your gas mileage, and the cool factor will make you a chick magnet.

 

[RivennHewn]

Better watch yourself, Riven. Besides making it go faster, they will also improve handling, your gas mileage, and the cool factor will make you a chick magnet.

Ya........I don't see that happening.

 

[Toolfool]

I think it now qualifies as a race truck.

 

[danski0224]

Didn't realize it had completely rusted out. Engine started running and sounding really bad. Must have been failing for some time.

I believe it's the Exhaust Heat Control valve, but the PO just capped it off.

I could be wrong. I don't really remember working on one before.

Help me out if I'm wrong.

That's the AIR injection manifold and valve. It's connected to the air pump on the engine.

I don't know if replacement parts are available.

 

[RivennHewn]

I think it now qualifies as a race truck.

Thing is, there are no horse drawn wagons in my area.

 

[RivennHewn]

That's the AIR injection manifold and valve. It's connected to the air pump on the engine.

I don't know if replacement parts are available.

Seems to be running fine with it deleted and capped off.

Guess I’ll be going with it as is.

Thanks

 

[creativecars]

Deleting the air injection/ egr crossover stuff won't affect how it runs in your truck since most of it is already gone. Many of us have already taken the pipe off the back of the heads and replaced it with a freeze plug and or cut the pipe so it has about 1" of pipe after the 90, smash it flat and weld the end of the pipe closed. Then reinstall the pieces back into the head with the bolt. You don't have to pull the heads or motor this way and you will be rid of the rest of the pipe and the egr valve.

 

[McBrownie]

Thanks. The PO deleted the pump, and plugged it.
Maybe why it rusted out.

“Limited access”

My understanding of the early '70s air pump was to diffuse the exhaust fumes by pumping in more clean air to the exhaust stream. So, the air coming out of the tail pipe was "cleaner" because it was diluted with clean air that was being pumped in, thus passing emissions tests. I had one on my straight six '73 Nova. It started leaking and sounded like a knocking or ticking sound. I found the leak and went to an auto parts store to buy plugs, since they were NPT threads. The sales guy said "I can't sell these if you are using them to bypass pollution control." I said "Of course not. I'll take six of them." That was in the late '70s. Removed the air pump, plugged the holes, problem solved. The net effect of the environment was probably better off because I wasn't burning fuel running the air pump.

Having fun following the thread.

 

[RivennHewn]

Thanks McBrownie,

I got the steering stabilizer in the mail on Friday, and had it installed in about 1/2 hour.

Most of that was jacking the truck. Super quick and easy install.

Need to get it back on the freeway to see if it makes any real difference.

 

[RivennHewn]

Been awhile, figured it was time for an update.

Haven't had time/energy to post much lately, but I'm finishing up a project at work and hoping things will slow down a bit.

Finally got the wallet in shape to get it into a paint booth, could use a recommendation in the Seattle area.

Truck is running great. Well, kind of.

Started having an issue that's got me stumped.

Runs fine while running around, but when I get out on the freeway it starts cutting out.

1st I lose power, then a backfire out the tail pipe, then the tach will max out at about 8K rpms. The engine isn't doing 8k. At speed, it turns just over 2K.

I put it in neutral, and coast for a bit, then it kicks back in for a bit then repeats.

The tach comes off the coil. I've replaced the coil. I've replaced some shoddy wire connections that feed the coil.

It will also have the same problem going down hill, using compression to slow me down.

Any thoughts?

 

[Perrorojo]

Carb bowl have fuel?

When it starts to miss, shut it off and see if the fuel bowl is over full or dry. My TBird did something similar and I noticed the front bowl was so full it was flooding out the engine at high vacuum.

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[Strouty]

I would rebuild the carb, but the 8k Tach has me scratching my head.

 

[nsula_country]

Have no ideas about the cutting out. Ignition module on drivers fender? Had a 76 D100 that did some weird stuff. Was a combination of shorted amp meter and all the goo melted out of the ignition module.

Where did you get the shocks and brand?

Also steering stabilizer?

Thanks, CT

 

[BajaScout]

Been awhile, figured it was time for an update.

Haven't had time/energy to post much lately, but I'm finishing up a project at work and hoping things will slow down a bit.

Finally got the wallet in shape to get it into a paint booth, could use a recommendation in the Seattle area.

Truck is running great. Well, kind of.

Started having an issue that's got me stumped.

Runs fine while running around, but when I get out on the freeway it starts cutting out.

1st I lose power, then a backfire out the tail pipe, then the tach will max out at about 8K rpms. The engine isn't doing 8k. At speed, it turns just over 2K.

I put it in neutral, and coast for a bit, then it kicks back in for a bit then repeats.

The tach comes off the coil. I've replaced the coil. I've replaced some shoddy wire connections that feed the coil.

It will also have the same problem going down hill, using compression to slow me down.

Any thoughts?

Check for play in the distributer shaft. At higher RPMS it may alter the timing. Had that issue on a few of those trucks in the past.

 

[creativecars]

Been awhile, figured it was time for an update.

Truck is running great. Well, kind of.

Started having an issue that's got me stumped.

Runs fine while running around, but when I get out on the freeway it starts cutting out.

1st I lose power, then a backfire out the tail pipe, then the tach will max out at about 8K rpms. The engine isn't doing 8k. At speed, it turns just over 2K.

I put it in neutral, and coast for a bit, then it kicks back in for a bit then repeats.

The tach comes off the coil. I've replaced the coil. I've replaced some shoddy wire connections that feed the coil.

It will also have the same problem going down hill, using compression to slow me down.

Any thoughts?

River, The distributor pick up coil (inside the distributor) will cause odd problems, but I would be looking at the ignition control module. They will do some really crazy stuff when going out. Just make sure you get the one that has the same color tab that yours has. Edit... like this one has a blue tab where the wires go into the module.

 

[nsula_country]

Just researched this recently. I'm going to list model years, but its actually the distributor year... I think.

1974 black grommet, tab
1975 green grommet, tab
1976 until end of distributor era, blue grommet, tab

CT

 

[RivennHewn]

Thank you all for the input.
Distributor may be a good place to look, as it’s a cheap O’Reilly’s unit.
I always forget about the coil in the distributor.

Truck went to the paint booth, won’t be back til next weekend.

 

[RivennHewn]

Where did you get the shocks and brand?

Also steering stabilizer?

Thanks, CT

The front shocks are just Monroe Magnums, off EBay.
The stabilizer is a Moog from Amazon.

Both seem to have made a positive difference in the handling and wheel play.

The truck didn’t come with rear shocks.

 

[shedfullatools]

Truck went to the paint booth, won’t be back til next weekend.

Cant wait to see her all painted up