Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

[Spareparts]

Glad you got it done, I'am getting to old to wrestle with tires, they go to the tire shop

 

[86turbodsl]

i hear you there. I do my own bike wheels, it's quite the workout and that's usually just one!

The bead breaker i ordered, XB-450i, worked pretty well. Was able to get the 2 hunks of tire off the one wheel. I do not believe there was enough left for a regular tire machine to grab to get it off. The one strip was maybe an inch wide.

I am glad i decided to pull over so fast, there wasn't much left of that tire, and any more driving on it, and probably would have lost the wheel.

 

[83VillageRepair]

That XB-450i looks like it would work good for breaking down tractor tires while still mounted on the tractor. I have 4 new tires I need to mount up on my loader.

 

[86turbodsl]

They have a larger one they market for tractors. Xb550 I think.

 

[86turbodsl]

New tires on car Monday, back to the grind. Trying to get back on daughter's car, don't have too much left to do on it, but the struggle is getting out there with evening meetings to conduct. 2 days this week. Yesterday had company, and just never got out there. I probably need to push myself more.

 

[86turbodsl]

Wife had me ******* this weekend on fencing corrals, that took out Saturday. And then we had rain all day Sunday. I worked in the house on various things. Still dont have the daughter's car done and i want it done bad. Drove the truck to work today and i hate driving that thing to work. Slooooow. Bumpy. Expensive.

 

[bimmer1980]

What is the next action step you can do tonight on the car?

Are you able to move past the stuck bolt/stud, etc?

 

[kent_323is]

Any pics of said stuck bolt/easy out?

Is it a through bolt hole, or a blind hole?

I almost never use an easy out because they just break off. I usually just keep drilling it larger until it's just the threads left, and then just peel them out of the hole.

I've had decent luck with welding on a nut as others have said. Turn up the amps on the welder, and go for it. The first couple of nuts may well break off until you get your technique to work, but the heat cycles tend to help break it loose too.

Regardless, good luck!

 

[86turbodsl]

What is the next action step you can do tonight on the car?

Are you able to move past the stuck bolt/stud, etc?

Yes, i zip tied the abs sensor in place. it'll work. Next issue is when i tighten the axle bolt, the axle stops moving. I can't find anything wrong with the assembly, the axle is factory reman and looks good. Dims all match what came out. It's a puzzler. I'm thinking of letting it self clearance in operation. Alternative is pull the hub and put another in.

 

[86turbodsl]

One day soon i'll get out of weekends devoted nearly completely to family and make some real progress.
So this weekend my boy and i went to a Ford swap meet and got all the parts to fix his truck, for cheap.
So that was nice. And mothers day took up Sunday. I did manage to get a little done on the daughter's car, including snapping off a bunch of pcv tubing that was brittle. Oh boy. Just like my other one.
Keep on plugging....

 

[86turbodsl]

Oh yeah, i forgot to mention i picked up some tools at the swap meet. A nice set of Thomas and Betts crimp pliers, and 3 channel locks, 420,430,440. All in great shape. $7.50 each.

 

[Strouty]

We don't have any good swap meets like that around here, wish there was a place that had that type of stuff. We have flea markets, but they are usually hit or miss, leaning towards the miss side of things. Sounds like you got what your son needed and a few nice tools for a good price.

 

[86turbodsl]

Yes, he got a hood, grill and headlights for 75 bucks. Seeing as how he's terminally broke, it was a very good score for him. Of course now i'm on the hook for all the paint work, but we knew that going in.

 

[Strouty]

That does seem like a good deal, except for the painting part!

 

[83VillageRepair]

Just tell him different colors and patina are in right now

 

[Bob Heine]

Glad you got it done, I'am getting to old to wrestle with tires, they go to the tire shop

@86turbodsl and @Spareparts, I bought Vevor's copy of the Bead Breaker and used it to replace a couple of valve stems. It worked great to get the tire far enough away from the rim to get the rubber valve stem out and a metal clamp style valve stem in. At 77 that seemed like a good idea but I gave up after two and brought the car to Tire Kingdom to have four new Riken tires (from Tire Rack) and the two remaining valve stems swapped. I brought the stems to Tire Kingdom and assumed they knew what they were doing. Turns out they don't and after installing all four directional tires the same way (so the two tires on the right side were sweeping water under the treads instead of away). Talk about a squirrely drive home in the light rain. They remounted the tires for free and I thought I was good to go. Two days later I smelled a dead skunk on I-95 heading home but it turned out to be one of the valve stems they installed wasn't even finger tight. Centrifugal force at 70mph let the stem move into the rim and allow air to get out. The hotter the tire got, the more air came out. A burning Riken tire smells just like a dead skunk. I had to buy a fifth Riken tire but I had it installed at FUBAR tires rather than go back to Tire Kingdom.

When the Michelin 19-inch staggered set of tires (285/35ZR-19 rear and 255/40ZR-19 front) on our 2011 Cadillac CTS-V turned 12, I replaced them. Ordered the tires from Tire Rack and had a mobile tire service come to the house to do the mount and balance. His rig had all Hunter tire equipment and he charged less than Tire Kingdom. One of the TPMS units has since gone bad (I suspect dead battery) and my 80-year old brain thought about my Vevor bead breaker. After I finished bending over to add air to the tires last week, I came back in the house and looked up the mobile tire installer's number.

I had a fainting episode a couple of months ago. I didn't faint but it was a very weird near-blackout so I mentioned it to our Primary Care Physician and he's scheduled me for a CT (computed tomography) brain scan tomorrow. I suggested it was a waste of time and money but my position there was nothing left in my skull to see was overriden by SWMBO and her buddy the doctor. I'll have the last laugh when all they find in there is an old cheese puff I accidentally snorted years ago.

 

[rattle_snake]

I think you have enough cars and parts to do something like this. Best of both worlds?

https://irate4x4.com/threads/1997-audi-a6-w-dodge-drivetrain.406422/

 

[86turbodsl]

Yeah that's probably more work than i want...

I have been super busy with work, it'll get better shortly.

 

[86turbodsl]

So i just got done with a whirlwind week of visitors from the mothership overseas, and all my guys in office every day for training. It went pretty well all things considered. But i'm tired, so i took Monday off and it's the start of a 3 day weekend. As usual, i have a pile of things i want to get done but probably won't. Its starting to become very clear that my work schedule isn't going to get much better and i may have to think about what projects i just won't get done or have to outsource. And a new development is the heat pump on the house is roached. I cleaned it last year with rydlime to get rid of the scale that was killing my efficiency and at some point since last year's shutdown, it developed a pinhole leak and the freon circuit filled with water. There's no fixing it, she's dead Jim.
A new one is about 8K not counting install, so there may be some priority on this fix for me. I have the tools and the certs to do it myself it's just going to depend on how much time i can squeeze out to do it. I know the typical answer is just write a check, but it would be a BIG check so there's probably a good ROI for me to do this one.

 

[bimmer1980]

Uff, $8k is a chunk of change. Is it necessary to do the complete system, or could you get a replacement coil? Is it the indoor side or outdoor side on the heat pump system? Freon type?

I.e. are there any "scratch and dent" units for sale that could be used instead of a new off the shelf at retail prices.

I guess it depend on how temperature adaptable the family is.... knowing that if you do the swap, it's probably at least couple of weekends job. Is that worth it to you? I.e. opportunity cost vs dollars saved.

I'm not making a recommendation one way or the other, just some thoughts....

Would your son at least "help" with moving the big pieces? Since you helped him a lot on his truck.

 

[86turbodsl]

So the pinhole is from the load side HX into the vapor section. So we have a bad HX, coaxial, and water contaminated all the vapor components. I'll never get all that water out of the compressor. So the only good parts left are the HX for the loop field and the control board. The reversing valve died years ago. It's a self contained unit, all indoors as it's a GSHP. It's R22. Parts for R22 are getting very very hard to find. I can't find a coaxial HX at all. There's sort of 2 very divergent paths here. One, i build something to replace it, slowly, while we generally sweat the summer. Two, i pay someone to come in and replace the unit, with install, if i can find ANYONE to replace, we're probably well north of 10K. 8K was just the unit i found. Even surplus we're into multi-thousands. I'm not sure many techs would want to work on my very complicated system, during the demand season. There's just not a lot of incentive for them to come into a job where there's lots of weirdness and unknowns. Around here, once you get away from the Natural gas furnace and basic AC, you're not very likely to find techs that know how to do anything out of the norm.

I talked to my HVAC buddy, he wondered about serviceability if i get hit by a bus, i told him we're looking at system complexity in the rear view mirror a long long time ago. It's already fiendishly complex and not easy to understand. With that said, i'm thinking about rolling my own. We didn't use the AC most of last year anyway, as i was retooling things to be able to clean HX with rydlime. Who knew that stuff was so corrosive to copper... the HX's were probably already thin.

I've got a few ideas on where this goes, just doing research and ordering a few parts right now.

In other news, the kid's truck is becoming a problem, he got pulled over 2x this week, so i took a day off yesterday and painted the 2 parts he needed to get started on fixing the thing. I'm not going to paint anything else right now. He can start bolting things together when he's got a free weekend.

 

[kent_323is]

I think your HVAC buddy brings up a good point on complexity. As you gear up to replace it, whether it's yourself or someone else, how can you (them) reduce complexity in the entire system?
That "might" help with the overall system cost, and help your future self (wife) if anything does go wrong later on.
While the cost is significant, do you really have the time to be messing with it based on your current and future work load both at work and at home? Something to consider so you go in eyes wide open for whatever path you choose.
Do you have a simple plan B while the work is in progress... like a window AC unit? That could alleviate the worst of the hot temperatures in July and August for the wife and yourself.

Heat for the shop...that'd sure be something nice to work on while temps are NOT (edited) freezing cold.

Regardless, good luck with whatever choice you make.

 

[86turbodsl]

Kent,

You make good points. I would not be able to really reduce complexity at all. This is one part of a very complex system. I can however add complexity pretty easily. At some point i need to decide how much appetite i have for this sort of thing. Easy button is write a check. Rough guess, i'm looking at 12K. If we replace unit as is, it's bring in a loop field guy from Detroit and do the purge. Field is partial methanol. Needs a purge cart. HVAC tech puts in a new unit. 2 contractors, 2 service calls. I do the wiring, if i can get a contractor to sign up to that. I'm not sure i can.
Probably most contractors just walk away scratching their head. Or quote a full rip out. I'm not willing to do that. I've got somewhere around 100K in this system at this point. If i count my time.
One suggestion was a water/air HX add with a outdoor ASHP. That's probably the easiest thing i can do at the moment. I'm leaning that direction with a 2nd HX for down the road on the science fair project.

shop heat: did you mean while the temps are NOT freezing cold?

 

[86turbodsl]

So parts are starting to trickle in to fix the AC in some form. In the meantime, i got the daughter's car done-ish and out of the shop on Father's day. I started the forklift and moved over into that spot and decided to figure out why it was leaking. used my toe jack to jack it up on the side i think was leaking and when i removed the drive plate on that side, hydraulic fluid POURED out. Pulled the wheel and bearings, and it's leaking out of the tube that supports the wheel. The drive plate has a shaft that runs into the center where it meets a hydraulic motor. I think the hydraulic motor shaft seal must be gone. Anybody got experience rebuilding those? Don't know brand yet. I have a set of hose plugs coming today, so i can get it pulled out. I'm thinking I'm going to pull the mast and do both motors while i'm in there. Its the only part of this forklift i haven't really dug into yet. And if i put the new mast on, with fixed seals, i'm basically home free to finish putting things away in the shop. There will be a little work to get it adapted, but probably not too bad. The new mast isn't leaking or anything. Should be good to go with just adaptation and the one hose. The new mast has free lift and goes up at least to the ceiling. That's a big improvement from what it is now.

 

[86turbodsl]

Never fails, work on something, everything goes sideways. Was working on getting the hydro motor out of the Namco last night, and was able to get all the bolts out but the ONE next to the front pan of the machine. There's no way to get at it except through a hole on the front of the pan, which is conveniently covered up by the mast uprights. Sooo... i worked on pulling the mast last night, to allow access to the one bolt i can't get at, and found something i hadn't noticed before. The lift cylinder is attached not to the mast, like every other mast i've ever seen, but to the machine itself. And of course it has a pin through the cylinder and the ears welded onto the machine, and the pin won't move. Put a big pipe wrench on it, no go. So at this point, i might as well do the mast change while i'm at this. I need to torch off the cylinder mounts and come up with some new way to attach the new mast. The old way isn't going to work. Why does everything turn into an engineering project???

 

[bulletpruf]

I'd be hitting the pin area with some heat to see if that would free things up first.

 

[86turbodsl]

Doesn't matter. Those ears have to come off anyway for the new mast. Only reason to spend the time to save them is if i want to put the old mast back on. I don't.

 

[86turbodsl]

Well that was fun. I got the plasma out and cut the two ears off. So the mast is loose now. Then i got to panic while the forklift was on fire and i ran to the house to get water to put it out. I normally keep a 5 gallon bucket outside the shop which sits full of water most of the time. It wasn't there anymore. The water to the shop has been turned off since the boiler came out. The fire extinguisher doesn't work.

I may be in over my head. I got the fire out in time.

 

[86turbodsl]

Does anyone know if it's important for the pivot point for the mast tilt to be around the axle centerline? That's how most are, but one of mine was not. It would complicate things for the new mast if that was necessary. If it's not, this becomes a fairly simple exercise.

 

[bimmer1980]

Reminder of "fire watch" while torching or welding???? Sounds like you dodged a major bullet. Perhaps time to think about some fire extinguishers placed by the welder and the torch? I keep one on my torch cart. Had the wife on fire watch when welded on an exhaust flange on my 4Runner the other week. I wasn't too worried, but tried to plan ahead. It was a non-event.

I wouldn't let the pivot placement hold you up. I think my clark has it in front of the front wheel. You can elevate the front wheels by placing a block under the mast and then tipping the mast forward.

I would set aside "perfection" and optimal for DONE when it comes to getting the forklift project completed. The most important thing is for it to be back up and running so you can shuffle your stuff around.

Just my two cents....

 

[86turbodsl]

I have a hard time with fire watches, because i have a very limited time to do these types of things, and just 2 girls in the house. And when i'm working on things, they tend to be getting ready for bed. Both early risers. I need to do a better job of fire prevention. Need water and extinguishers on hand. I did hang round for a while to make sure everything was out and stayed out.

The clark has a pivot point around the axle. The Namco did. The Oliver doesn't and the Yale didn't. I can't make it easily on the Namco with the new mast, which is wider than before and i don't think the axles can take the stress.

 

[86turbodsl]

Got the mast off, both hydro motors out. The 2nd one wasn't even bolted in. Probably because of how hard it was to get to. I'll be putting the hose machine to work on a few new hoses too. The routing was terrible.

 

[Strouty]

I would imagine the pivot is important if you are working at capacity, but a bit of movement for a homeowner rig probably would be fine, how far are you thinking of moving it?

Also this Fire Extinguisher is one of the best investments I have ever made, easy to use and totally reusable.

 

[86turbodsl]

The mast originally pivoted around the axle tubes welded to the chassis. BUT, and this is a big BUT, the cylinder lower mount was attached to the front of the chassis so all forces lifting are directed to that point, not the mast ears. The oliver has a giant pipe mounted in front of the tires that the mast attaches to, and the yale was a weird bird, it had wheels mounted directly to the bottom of the mast, the pivot point was a foot above that point, and the drive wheel was a single wheel in back below where you stood.

The mast going on the namco is wider than the original, so the mounting point will need to move a little further away from the wheels. Originally, the mast was narrow enough it went between the wheels. Moving it farther away from the counterweight will reduce some capacity. I can always add more weight though. I am not too worried about making it beefy enough. I am setup to do heavy fab work if i need to.

I will get some photos of all this a little later so we can discuss.

 

[86turbodsl]

I would imagine the pivot is important if you are working at capacity, but a bit of movement for a homeowner rig probably would be fine, how far are you thinking of moving it?

Also this Fire Extinguisher is one of the best investments I have ever made, easy to use and totally reusable.

that fire extinguisher is water? i'd be more inclined to just get a hose if that's all it is.

 

[Strouty]

Well, you said the water was turned off, it is pressurized by your compressor when you refill it, so it is ready for any situation without running water...

 

[86turbodsl]

Ok, good point. I'll think about that one. Long term i have water back in shop. I only turned it off because heat was off.

I ran to town, got some 12pt sockets, got one of the motors cleaned up and found some numbers. I need to research what these things are.

G4MD43 1017 01680

 

[shakenfake]

Ah yes, the old “I have a hose so I’m prepared for a fire” idea.
Get a fire extinguisher. Seriously is this even a question? ABC extinguishers are worth it.

God forbid you have an electrical fire and you decide to throw water on it.

 

[Strouty]

I just took a look at all nine of my forklifts, the rough terrain ones all pivoted higher than the axle to varying degrees and all the ones that were more flat ground style pivoted either on the axle housing, essentially around the CL of the wheels or very close to that, but in front of the axle housing. I know that pound for pound, the rough terrain forklifts don't usually get rated as high because they are figuring you are going to put the loads into all sorts of awkward and dangerous positions. They also usually have negative drop forks and keep the bottom of the mast high for ground clearance. I would say if you made mounts in front of the housing, but as close to the CL of the axle, you would lose some strength, but I do not think you would need to add counterweight as you are moving things forward increasing the power of what you already have on the *** end. I am sure if HF can build an engine hoist that will pick 2 tons, you can make a bracket to hold a forklift that can lift a ton, just be reasonable.

I would almost be tempted to hack the original mast up and use it to mount the new mast, that way you could use the original pivots and not have to reinvent the wheel. Is the plate on the original mast that holds the fork carriage together wide enough? You could use both pieces and make some angle iron with it for the main mount, then you would need to come up with another heavy chunk to mount the tilt cylinder, but it could be doable for sure. Or you could probably use the actual uprights, cut them down and turn them sideways.

 

[Strouty]

God forbid you have an electrical fire and you decide to throw water on it.

That just adds to the excitement!