Air compressor advice

[thinktwicez71]

I just saw a saylor beall 4500 chart that showed this pump with a 15hp motor is run at 830 rpm , and the 10hp version from the factory is run at 605 rpm . So I'm guessing it can go at least as low as 605 then


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[The Tool Tyrant]

I just saw a saylor beall 4500 chart that showed this pump with a 15hp motor is run at 830 rpm , and the 10hp version from the factory is run at 605 rpm . So I'm guessing it can go at least as low as 605 then


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Okay, but that's with 2.5 more HP than a 7.5, so it would need to turn slower than 605 in order for the 7.5 to pull it. That's a big pump, which will put out probably more CFM than you'll ever need, so if the minimum pump rpm is low enough that the 7.5 will pull it, you should be good...but check first.

 

[thinktwicez71]

Ok just in case the 7.5hp doesn't work and I need a 10hp , are leesons better than baldor for single stage ? I saw a 10hp leeson single stage 1725 rpm new with a sf 1.15 for 749 shipped . The place is out of Texas and he said it's better than a comparable baldor and 300 cheaper ! , what are your thoughts ?

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[thinktwicez71]

Ok just in case the 7.5hp doesn't work and I need a 10hp , are leesons better than baldor for single stage ? I saw a 10hp leeson single stage 1725 rpm new with a sf 1.15 for 749 shipped . The place is out of Texas and he said it's better than a comparable baldor and 300 cheaper ! , what are your thoughts ?

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More amperage he said and more torque


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[rrangus]

You can go slower on the pump, however there is a minimum recommended speed to operate at. Make sure what that is and the HP to turn that speed. Some of the manufactures put out a chart that will show pressure/speed/HP/cfm's. Make sure that you have the electric power to run it also. Your starting to talk about bit amps here.

on edit, here is an example from Kellogg for pressure/speed/HP/cfm's. http://www.aircompeq.com/ka.htm

edit#2, here is from SB, http://www.saylor-beall.com/pumps/ . If you have a 4500 pump then it looks to be spec'ed for 10-15 hp and may not do well with 5 -7 hp. Also on the SB site they have manuals for the different series pumps you may want to read once you figure out the pump your looking at.

lg
no neat sig line

I am not sure that there is a minimum RPM for the compressors. The chart just shows RPM's for rated capacity.

Having bought many compressors over the years, I would take the Saylor Beall over the DeVibiliss. I am running a 5 hp SB that I bought new in 1986, many days it never shut off other than at lunch time. I also have a Quincy QP pressure lubricated compressor. It is over 20 years old with no problems.

 

[thinktwicez71]

I am not sure that there is a minimum RPM for the compressors. The chart just shows RPM's for rated capacity.

Having bought many compressors over the years, I would take the Saylor Beall over the DeVibiliss. I am running a 5 hp SB that I bought new in 1986, many days it never shut off other than at lunch time. I also have a Quincy QP pressure lubricated compressor. It is over 20 years old with no problems.

Basically we are more worried about the minimum rpm for the compressor to keep proper lubrication because it's a splash lube compressor

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[thinktwicez71]

Well I talked to Saylor beall this morning , according to him the slowest rpm is 605 rpm which is what the 10hp from the factory does . So i ordered a new baldor L1512T . 10hp single phase 1725 rpm . Great deal I thought , free shipping $875.00 . Glad the wife pays the electric bill haha. Honestly the limited amount I'll use this it won't be a big deal

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[The Tool Tyrant]

Well I talked to Saylor beall this morning , according to him the slowest rpm is 605 rpm which is what the 10hp from the factory does . So i ordered a new baldor L1512T . 10hp single phase 1725 rpm . Great deal I thought , free shipping $875.00 . Glad the wife pays the electric bill haha. Honestly the limited amount I'll use this it won't be a big deal

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I'm glad you THOUGHT TWICE about trying the 7.5 hp motor. Personally, I would have gone with the Baldor 10 hp also, I've always had great reliability with the Baldor's. That pump will put out some serious CFM for sure.
Make sure you use the correct wire size for that motors amperage draw.

Good luck!

 

[larry_g]

You have one other knob to turn besides pulley ratios. When you get this thing running get an amp probe and monitor the input current while running. You will see the current rise as the pressure builds. If the pressure rises to a point that he current draw is exceeding the motor limits before cut off, you can lower the cut off pressure. There is really no reason for most people to have a 175 psi cutoff. and the energy used going from 150 psi to 175 is a lot. I have mine set at 110 cutin-150 cutoff and all works sweet.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[thinktwicez71]

Well ain't this some **** ........did some searching on saylor website for parts and came across a drawing of the 4500 pump and on the bottom it clearly says min pump rpm 400 max 830 rpm. Figures after I already ordered the 10hp and it's shipped , oh well .

http://www.saylor-beall.com/wp-content/uploads/4500_Pump_Drawing.pdf

Look at bottom of drawing


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[thinktwicez71]

I know I need a new magnetic motor starter for this , but what about the pressure switch ? They just installed a new one on it before I got it , but I don't know if it's approved for the hp motor I'm installing . It's a square d 9013ghg2j63


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[The Tool Tyrant]

I know I need a new magnetic motor starter for this , but what about the pressure switch ? They just installed a new one on it before I got it , but I don't know if it's approved for the hp motor I'm installing . It's a square d 9013ghg2j63


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Motor HP has no bearing on the pressure switch.

 

[thinktwicez71]

What is this hp figures in the installation manual ? That's what has me confused on the pressure switch , wasn't sure if it couldn't handle the amperage going through it

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[thinktwicez71]

This is what I mean

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[The Tool Tyrant]

I have used several different manufacturers (Square D, Furnas) pressure switches and have never seen anything regarding what you show above. The pressure switch controls the relays in the magnetic starter, so the electrical load seen by the motor does not flow through the pressure switch.

 

[thinktwicez71]

Ok just making sure, I was confused

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[thinktwicez71]

I got my baldor motor , I just don't understand how I mount it . I got these little c channel pieces and studs in a track but the holes on the motor appear small ( haven't actually tried yet 135lbs). Do the studs go through the motor base holes or does the motor get clamped down ? Pictures in a minute

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[thinktwicez71]

Pictures
....i tried looking online at pictures but still can't figure it out

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[thinktwicez71]

I'm guessing the c channel pieces go so that the tightening bolts on the end hit the side of them to push?

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[The Tool Tyrant]

That's an adjustable base plate which allows mush easier belt adjustment. You can see it's fully adjustable, so it should fit your 215 motor frame. If the mounting bolts are larger than the holes in the motor plate, just enlarge them to the correct size...no big deal.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I'm guessing the c channel pieces go so that the tightening bolts on the end hit the side of them to push?

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Correct...turn them 90° from the orientation in the picture.

 

[thinktwicez71]

Ok thanks , so I imagine the motor sits on top of those c channel pieces ?

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[The Tool Tyrant]

Ok thanks , so I imagine the motor sits on top of those c channel pieces ?

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Correct.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Belt alignment and tension are critical. Remove the belt guard and use a straight edge off the face of the pump pulley when installing the motor sheave to make certain that the BELT GROOVES are in direct alignment. Check the manual for correct belt tension...it will probably seem much tighter than you THINK it needs to be.

 

[redmondjp]

Belt alignment and tension are critical. Remove the belt guard and use a straight edge off the face of the pump pulley when installing the motor sheave to make certain that the BELT GROOVES are in direct alignment. Check the manual for correct belt tension...it will probably seem much tighter than you THINK it needs to be.

Yes, and if installing new belts, you want it really tight as the belts will stretch and will have to be retightened at least once after a few hours of operation.

 

[thinktwicez71]

Got the motor installed I need to make one more small adjustment on the belt tho. I'm about 1/8" too far out on the motor pulley . I don't know why the previous owner botched the fan guard like this , it wasn't that time consuming doing it the right way and taking the aftercooler off .


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[thinktwicez71]

Progress is being made

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[The Tool Tyrant]

Now...well, actually BEFORE you installed the drive sheave...but it's not too late to remove the belt guard and straighten out that mess!! Don't get over-anxious to hear it run and then kick yourself in the **** for not fixing it correctly!

 

[thinktwicez71]

True true , no rush , I still need to order a motor starter , doubt sincerely I can use the 3 phase one .


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[thinktwicez71]

Give me a chance to use my mig welder and mig all the cuts back together , or just put a whole new piece of mesh in it , we got pieces at work


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[thinktwicez71]

These must be as rare as hens teeth , I've looked everywhere since I bought this and I have not seen one video or even another setup like this one that somebody has anywhere . Curious to see it running or what it looked like from the factory . I can't imagine this crooked concoction of pipeing is stock. , plus I would like to hear one run


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[The Tool Tyrant]

Actually, you can use the three phase starter, you just need to add a jumper wire...here is a link to a youtube video...

 

[thinktwicez71]

It'll be the correct amps ? What about pre heaters or what not

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[thinktwicez71]

This is what's ,on it

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[The Tool Tyrant]

Oh...the previous owner must have been running on 460 3ph.

Ya, best order the correct unit, unless you can locate the needed parts to replace.

 

[thinktwicez71]

Yeah they ran it 3 phase

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[thinktwicez71]

I stopped over to the local motor shop , he said I could use a fasco h360c for my motor starter and wrote me a diagram of how to wire it all . Is this ok? Sure was slot cheaper than. 240

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[thinktwicez71]

What's the difference between what the motor shop sold me and the others ? Is it the overload relay part something I need ?

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[The Tool Tyrant]

What's the difference between what the motor shop sold me and the others ? Is it the overload relay part something I need ?

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I'm sure the motor shop knows what you need. If you show him what you have, he can sell you everything you need to do it right.

 

[thinktwicez71]

Well I did that , but apparently that's just a contactor , a cheaper version , the better version is $200 more than this but that version has overload relay protection which this cheaper version does not . He said this will work , but my question is will this version do more harm to the motor if something goes wrong ?


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