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ching0n

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2016
Messages
1,496
ching0n said:
1713379831246.png
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Got these in. Got my snap rings off. All tips were there and straight. Steel was a bit rough finish. The hinges and alignment on the straight ones could've been tighter. I'll take a pipe to get them straight if it bothers me. Overall beats the heck out of swapping tips from that other **** I couldn't find.

FWIW: Dura-something also carries a clone that's well rated.

and also seem to come in black and nickel plating w/a slimer case:
 
C

ching0n

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2016
Messages
1,496
ching0n said:
Got these in. Got my snap rings off. All tips were there and straight. Steel was a bit rough finish. The hinges and alignment on the straight ones could've been tighter. I'll take a pipe to get them straight if it bothers me. Overall beats the heck out of swapping tips from that other **** I couldn't find.

FWIW: Dura-something also carries a clone that's well rated.

and also seem to come in black and nickel plating w/a slimer case:
Click to expand...
For those that are considering any of the above; these are cheap, well rated, and have the dip handles instead of the over molds. No case. FWIW, the gear wrench and 7" hf Icon seem to use either identical or clone forgings to all of these mentioned:

1713908137815.png
 
F

Fatboy148!

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2023
Messages
248
Last edited:
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olytdi

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Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
2,202
Location
Olympia, Washington
mikeinri said:
I don't get it. The car is already low profile, now you're buying ramps that are low profile, so how in the world do you fit under there, especially if you use a creeper???

Mike
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The "low profile" ramps are made so that your low vehicle can get up on a ramp without the body work that is north of the front tire kicking the ramp forward. A low car won't get up on more traditionally sized ramps.

Best bet would be bypass all of the nonsense and get a low profile - long reach jack (if you don't have a lift) and go from ground to jack stands.
 
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XXL__

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
139
olytdi said:
Best bet would be bypass all of the nonsense and get a low profile - long reach jack (if you don't have a lift) and go from ground to jack stands.
Click to expand...

One of my hooptys is on the ground. Full lock left turn, slip low profile jack #1 between wheel and fender and catch front crossmember. Jack up enough to get low profile jack #2 under front sheetmetal and catch other side of crossmember. Left-right alternate jack to height needed for jack stands. Remove both jacks and move to frame rails approx 2/3 back of vehicle and alternate jack left and right needed for rear jack stands. It's only about a 10 minute process honed over a lifetime of low cars... maybe I should have bought a Quick Jack.
 
C

ching0n

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2016
Messages
1,496
olytdi said:
The "low profile" ramps are made so that your low vehicle can get up on a ramp without the body work that is north of the front tire kicking the ramp forward. A low car won't get up on more traditionally sized ramps.

Best bet would be bypass all of the nonsense and get a low profile - long reach jack (if you don't have a lift) and go from ground to jack stands.
Click to expand...
my low profile long reach jack won't reach the crossmember before the high part hits the body work :ROFLMAO:
 
M

MAYBEN

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Messages
125
Location
Sparta, NJ
XXL__ said:
One of my hooptys is on the ground. Full lock left turn, slip low profile jack #1 between wheel and fender and catch front crossmember. Jack up enough to get low profile jack #2 under front sheetmetal and catch other side of crossmember. Left-right alternate jack to height needed for jack stands. Remove both jacks and move to frame rails approx 2/3 back of vehicle and alternate jack left and right needed for rear jack stands. It's only about a 10 minute process honed over a lifetime of low cars... maybe I should have bought a Quick Jack.
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I bought a set a couple-few years back - have not had a chance to hook up the hoses and put the fluid in. I need to get on it as I'd like to change the oil on the Pontiac - which also needs a battery, and tires, and some lovin'.
 
C

ching0n

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2016
Messages
1,496
XXL__ said:
One of my hooptys is on the ground. Full lock left turn, slip low profile jack #1 between wheel and fender and catch front crossmember. Jack up enough to get low profile jack #2 under front sheetmetal and catch other side of crossmember. Left-right alternate jack to height needed for jack stands. Remove both jacks and move to frame rails approx 2/3 back of vehicle and alternate jack left and right needed for rear jack stands. It's only about a 10 minute process honed over a lifetime of low cars... maybe I should have bought a Quick Jack.
Click to expand...
that's my current approach w/a long reach jack but not a fan of doing it twice to go up and twice to go down. They make those low profile ramps longer than what I bought in case the car is really low but they interfere w/a jack going from the sides. I measured and these should work for me.
 
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finn

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Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,175
Location
The UP, God's country
mikeinri said:
I don't get it. The car is already low profile, now you're buying ramps that are low profile, so how in the world do you fit under there, especially if you use a creeper???

Mike
Click to expand...
These would work on my Ford Transit 350 drw class B motorhome conversion van.

The generator is mounted low behind the rear axle and I need a couple inches more lift when servicing the generator to slip under the van and clear my belly and to swing my elbows. I have been using a floor jack and blocks, or driving up on wooden blocks, but both are sort of sketchy. Ideally something like this would work, and still be easy to store.
 
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DarryT

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2024
Messages
209

GEARWRENCH E-Torx Double Box Ratcheting Wrench, E10 x E12 - 9221​

Great for working on a BMW
$18.80
 
C

Cc_windsurfer

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Joined
May 1, 2015
Messages
257
Location
SB, ca
srs2000 said:
EZRED - Extreme Focusing 1000 Lumen Recharge Work Light (XLF1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NWQKHN?tag=atomicindus08-20
$19.99

Screenshot_20240425-174352.pngScreenshot_20240425-174316.png
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Amazon reviews include this...

Update after a few years (Serious Problem): When I first got this light, I loved it. But over time it develops a serious problem. The red plastic pieces on the corners bleed a very permanent red dye when the light gets older. If you set the light down on a surface, that surface will be permanently stained red. When you pick up the light, the red stuff gets on your hands, and anything you touch will be stained red. The red dye is remarkably permanent. I used the light, didn't notice the red stuff had gotten on my hands, and everything I touched for the next ten minutes is not permanently stained: The counter, the cabinet door, my beautiful maple chair (the chair is finished with clear polyurethane coating, but the red dye soaked right into the urethane). I've tried everything to get the red stains out, but the red dye seems to have bonded to paint, varnish, Corian, etc. I've never had plastic leach dye like this. I don't know whether the red was a coating, or whether it was mixed into the plastic and leached out over time. The light was stored in a living space that never gets too hot or cold. I really liked this light, but a product that leaches red dye and ruins everything is unacceptable. I strongly advise skipping this product, or any product from this manufacturer with red plastic pieces unless they acknowledge the problem and explain how they've fixed it. So much damage from a simple work light
 
X

XXL__

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
139
Cc_windsurfer said:
Amazon reviews include this...

Update after a few years (Serious Problem): When I first got this light, I loved it. But over time it develops a serious problem. The red plastic pieces on the corners bleed a very permanent red dye when the light gets older. If you set the light down on a surface, that surface will be permanently stained red. When you pick up the light, the red stuff gets on your hands, and anything you touch will be stained red. The red dye is remarkably permanent. I used the light, didn't notice the red stuff had gotten on my hands, and everything I touched for the next ten minutes is not permanently stained: The counter, the cabinet door, my beautiful maple chair (the chair is finished with clear polyurethane coating, but the red dye soaked right into the urethane). I've tried everything to get the red stains out, but the red dye seems to have bonded to paint, varnish, Corian, etc. I've never had plastic leach dye like this. I don't know whether the red was a coating, or whether it was mixed into the plastic and leached out over time. The light was stored in a living space that never gets too hot or cold. I really liked this light, but a product that leaches red dye and ruins everything is unacceptable. I strongly advise skipping this product, or any product from this manufacturer with red plastic pieces unless they acknowledge the problem and explain how they've fixed it. So much damage from a simple work light
Click to expand...

I have a 30+ year old Craftsman fluorescent drop light that has the same problem, but I'm too dumb to just throw it away, and I am only reminded how frustrating it is when I occasionally grab it, only for it to catch me "red handed."
 
S

srs2000

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2023
Messages
218
Cc_windsurfer said:
Amazon reviews include this...

Update after a few years (Serious Problem): When I first got this light, I loved it. But over time it develops a serious problem. The red plastic pieces on the corners bleed a very permanent red dye when the light gets older. If you set the light down on a surface, that surface will be permanently stained red. When you pick up the light, the red stuff gets on your hands, and anything you touch will be stained red. The red dye is remarkably permanent. I used the light, didn't notice the red stuff had gotten on my hands, and everything I touched for the next ten minutes is not permanently stained: The counter, the cabinet door, my beautiful maple chair (the chair is finished with clear polyurethane coating, but the red dye soaked right into the urethane). I've tried everything to get the red stains out, but the red dye seems to have bonded to paint, varnish, Corian, etc. I've never had plastic leach dye like this. I don't know whether the red was a coating, or whether it was mixed into the plastic and leached out over time. The light was stored in a living space that never gets too hot or cold. I really liked this light, but a product that leaches red dye and ruins everything is unacceptable. I strongly advise skipping this product, or any product from this manufacturer with red plastic pieces unless they acknowledge the problem and explain how they've fixed it. So much damage from a simple work light
Click to expand...
EZRED is taking their name a little too literal.
 
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