angle grinder

[billconner]

Planning to purchase a 4 1/2" angle grinder for cutting both rebar and block with appropriate blades. I don't need cordless, and have a good compressor so pneumatic is an option as well as corded electric. A couple of projects. A lifetime everyday tool I'd definitely not required. Have to wonder if the ones from HF will last.

Thank you in advance.

 

[rlitman]

The HF stuff isn't totally terrible, but also isn't something I'd recommend.

Forget pneumatic. I own an Ingersoll Rand VT22-120P1045 turbine grinder. I doubt you can find something better in that format, and when fed 175PSI air through a 1/2" hose it can barely keep up with my 5" Fein corded grinders, which already have an outrageously overpriced retail and the IR's retail price is around 10 times as high. As a turbine grinder it's not gutless, but affordable air vane motor angle grinders are seriously gutless. I do actually like my $20 pneumatic grinder for gently cutting stone, but touch it to steel and it stalls.

What I'd always recommend (at least when it comes to electric) is to choose a grinder with a safety clutch. Electronic is best, but slip is good too. Anything that stops a kickback when a wheel binds.

 

[Jswain]

HF will be fine, get it on sale and if you end up using it more/want to upgrade throw a different wheel on the next one and you don't have to switch back and forth.

 

[AA/FC]

Planning to purchase a 4 1/2" angle grinder for cutting both rebar and block with appropriate blades. I don't need cordless, and have a good compressor so pneumatic is an option as well as corded electric. A couple of projects. A lifetime everyday tool I'd definitely not required. Have to wonder if the ones from HF will last.

Thank you in advance.

About 15 years ago I had a large steel metal working project that required a lot of grinding. I started the project with my Makita 4 1/2 inch grinder that was very lightly used at that point..... I quickly burned out that Makita grinder and then purchased the cheapest HF grinder that I could find. Back then the cheap HF electric tools were bright generic orange.... they couldn't look cheaper if they tried. Well, that cheap HF grinder finished that lage metal working job, and many others over the last 15 years, and is still occasionally used today. lol. It's been totally overheated and overworked to the point of smoke coming out of the motor portion of the grinder countless times. Still runs fine! It's no longer bright orange, it's now more of a blackish brown color from the motor heat and grinding sparks along with black overheated grease that has leaked out of the gearbox on the drive end of the grinder. I think I paid around $9.99 for that grinder..... best ten bucks I ever spent on tools. Your mileage may vary.....

 

[boom_bap]

Grinders are dangerous. I'd get a name brand. They aren't that expensive to begin with like 50-100 bucks for a really quality one. Bosch, Milwuakee, Dewalt, Metabo. Think about safety features you'd want, ex paddle switch vs lock switch, brake vs no brake.

 

[rlitman]

Grinders are dangerous. I'd get a name brand. They aren't that expensive to begin with like 50-100 bucks for a really quality one. Bosch, Milwuakee, Dewalt, Metabo. Think about safety features you'd want, ex paddle switch vs lock switch, brake vs no brake.

I can't say I've owned a cordless grinder and I haven't seen a brake on a corded one yet. Because of the lack of brake, I really don't see any safety advantage to a paddle or rat-tail trigger design and lots of disadvantages, but if we're discussing something with a brake, that might change my mind on paddles.

I prefer the locking switch, because it doesn't limit my grip positions. A good grip is where safety starts.

 

[Dave455]

With angle grinders there are a few issues to consider apart from longevity.

A few years back I bought one of those cheap grinders for a guy who was doing one job for me. (I didn’t want him using my decent grinders).

I used it a couple of times since, and thought it would be fine for wire brushing rust and suchlike, but to be honest it was an awful thing. The vibration was awful, and the noise level was so bad I got ringing ears despite using ear defenders. And the switch was dreadful

Used it twice and chucked it. Got a basic Makita for mucky jobs. It’s so much better it’s unreal, and didn’t cost much more.

 

[DadsTools]

If you're using it for cutting wheels, the proper wheel guard is a Type 1 if you're concerned about maximum safety. My Metabo HPT does not have a Type 1 guard available (I have another thread started exploring a viable option from Makita). On the HF side, the Chigago Power has an optional Type 1 cutting wheel guard available as an accessory. The guard is marked as "universal" but actually fits the CP grinder and not the other brands.

 

[JRC3]

A few years ago I bought my Hitachi (G12SS2) for a few dollars more than what I would've spent at HF to replace the two loose and loud HF ones I wanted to replace. It was on sale at Menards for under $40. It's now Metabo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MY4D7H1/?tag=atomicindus08-20 The only thing I probably would've done different was get the paddle switch.

 

[boom_bap]

I can't say I've owned a cordless grinder and I haven't seen a brake on a corded one yet. Because of the lack of brake, I really don't see any safety advantage to a paddle or rat-tail trigger design and lots of disadvantages, but if we're discussing something with a brake, that might change my mind on paddles.

I prefer the locking switch, because it doesn't limit my grip positions. A good grip is where safety starts.

When your hand comes off the paddle the wheel stops, plugging it in you never have to worry about the locking switch being ON. Locking switch has its place. I have many. I just consider them more dangerous.

 

[jp828108]

I have used a couple cheap harbor freight ones. They dont compare to the corded dewalts i have later purchased and used.

I have a milwaukee fuel m18 as well. It doesnt compare to a good corded grinder. Its nice if im not close to a power supply, but if i didnt have a good corded one i would start there first.

I have used cheap cutting and grinding discs but same as the grinder i would buy decent quality ones. Thats a piece of abrasive spinning pretty quick. Its scary when they come apart. Good safety glasses or face shield should also be on your list.

 

[JradM]

Check how many amps when comparing grinders too. It makes a big difference when you're wire wheeling, using flap discs, etc.

I've used cheap and expensive grinders, its kind of hit and miss. Sometimes the cheap ones feel like the bearings are lubed with gravel, other times they work just fine.

Last thing - it's really better to have multiple grinders. If you're just buying one, this likely won't be a once-in-a-lifetime commitment anyway. If you want to try the cheap grinder and then upgrade later - now you have TWO grinders. Even better!

 

[Rinspeed]

Corded Milwaukee would get my vote.

 

[Xcursion88]

DeWalt DCG418 if you're buying just one. Consider it a lifetime purchase.

 

[Muttly]

I always look for Metabo grinders at the pawn shops, they don't typically know what they are so they are priced below Dewalt, Milwaukee and other name brand tools. Because of the electronics they don't kick back or burn up.

 

[JRC3]

If you want to try the cheap grinder and then upgrade later - now you have TWO grinders. Even better!

I can never go back to the cheap one though...Unless someone asks to borrow a grinder. LOL

 

[jayemm]

Safety first with a decent stout side handle. I've noticed the better grinders have the head of a decent sized bolt visible through the open end (if it's open) whereas the cheapies just have a skinny threaded stud to attach to the grinder. I've seen these small bolts that were just molded into the end of the handle broken out of the end of the handles. Who wants the handle braking while using a cutting wheel and lose control. I wouldn't be thinking of money saved if that grinder drops and slices across the top of my thigh or elsewhere. Just my .02.

 

[billconner]

Thank you all. Wish there had been some agreement but I guess a true ymmv issue.

Should I use my Milwaukee portable circular saw instead? It's 40 years old but still going strong. Just thought an expendable grinder under $40-50 was a simple and better choice.

 

[Jswain]

Once you get an angle grinder you'll probably find many uses for it. Something about the ability to cut materials, grind them smooth, sand them, strip paint/corrosion off with a wire wheel all in a very small package for little amounts of money.

It's worth the $20 to abuse it instead of your circular saw and the associated blades are likely quite a bit cheaper too

5 Amp 4-1/2 in. Slide switch Angle Grinder

Amazing deals on this 4-1/2In 5Amp Angle Grinder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Yankeefarmer]

For what you want to do, try a harbor freight one. I’ve got 5 now, slowly built up to 3, then one of them starting working inconsistently. So I went to HF with one of their coupons and bought 2 for $15 each. Then I fixed the broken one- bad cord, wire mostly broken (inside the insulation) near the tool, so I shortened the cord. One has a cutting disc,one a wire wheel, one a grinding wheel, and the fourth wears a flap disc. The fifth is still in the box as a spare, but could just as easily be wearing a fine grit flap disc. Been using these cheapies for the last 5 or 6 years, maybe more.

 

[ItsNemo]

Cutting brick (or any other concrete like product) with a 4.5" grinder *****, it's slow and your face is right down in it. If you do more than 2-3 bricks a day with it, get a proper concrete saw.

Rebar I always cut with an abrasive chop saw too, same reason, grinder is just annoying to use.

Actually, a grinder for cutting anything EXCEPT when the grinder is the only tool that will physically fit *****...don't use grinders for cutting, use grinders for grinding!

 

[svhamelly]

Bought a Makita almost 30 years ago... still works great!!!

 

[MrPink]

I have a now 10yr old Dewalt 4.5" angle grinder and it has worked great and has lasted under consistent use.

 

[dr_clyde]

I use the cheap DeWalt ones as my "disposable" grinders. They're less than $100 and we get 6 months or so out of them HEAVY use before they get tossed. Pretty much any name brand grinder in the sub $100 category will net you similar results. What's your favorite color?

Paddle switch is my preference, mostly for the ease of use but they are safer. I also like using them one handed for deburring and whatnot, and the paddle makes it easy to pulse the power on when you only want a little bit.

Metabo is what we buy for our "good" grinders. I have some that are well over a decade of regular welding shop use. We use the **** out of the Metabo cordless grinders, they're EXCELLENT.

I avoid HF as a rule, but especially anything they sell with a cord. So bad.

 

[ZRX61]

When your hand comes off the paddle the wheel stops, plugging it in you never have to worry about the locking switch being ON. Locking switch has its place. I have many. I just consider them more dangerous.

I ******** hate the paddle design. Fired the grinder up just picking it up too many times. Buzzed my other arm twice with the blade.

 

[billconner]

Cutting brick (or any other concrete like product) with a 4.5" grinder *****, it's slow and your face is right down in it. If you do more than 2-3 bricks a day with it, get a proper concrete saw.

Rebar I always cut with an abrasive chop saw too, same reason, grinder is just annoying to use.

Actually, a grinder for cutting anything EXCEPT when the grinder is the only tool that will physically fit *****...don't use grinders for cutting, use grinders for grinding!

As far as blocks, basically cutting a notch at corners for bond beam - not many cuts. I can't justify a chop saw for 100 or so cuts of no. 4. Was thinking about renting a manual cutter/bender, then I'd just use a chisel maybe for blocks. A grinder and some discs for under $50 seemed an easier option.

 

[no704]

For cutting block get the HF 9” and a diamond blade. The HF blades are ok, but not the one that comes with the tool. Keep a little water flowing on the blade as u cut. Face shield and garbage clothes recommend.

 

[dr_clyde]

I ******** hate the paddle design. Fired the grinder up just picking it up too many times. Buzzed my other arm twice with the blade.

How? Every paddle grinder I’ve seen has a little toggle you need to flip before the paddle will click on. Second nature after a few times, but they make it near impossible to click the paddle accidentally.

 

[dnschmidt]

I ******** hate the paddle design. Fired the grinder up just picking it up too many times. Buzzed my other arm twice with the blade.

How is that possible? All paddle switch grinders that I know off have a safety lock (sort of a tiny mini-paddle switch) that must be depressed prior to the paddle being able to be moved to engage.

 

[ZRX61]

How is that possible? All paddle switch grinders that I know off have a safety lock (sort of a tiny mini-paddle switch) that must be depressed prior to the paddle being able to be moved to engage.

Yup, & it's the PERFECT design to accidentally turn the damn thing on. Safety lock my ****.

 

[dr_clyde]

Yup, & it's the PERFECT design to accidentally turn the damn thing on. Safety lock my ****.

Lucky you I guess??

I can’t say as I’ve ever seen or heard of anyone else doing it but I guess it’s possible.

Won’t change my opinion that they’re a better design for when a cutoff wheel snags or if you accidentally have a wire wheel get caught or something. Dead man’s switch is much safer than a switch. I’ve seen switched grinders take off to the end of their cord and wreak all kinds of havoc when the operator loses their grip.

 

[Nutria]

My favorite grinder to date is a Metabo W9.

 

[ItsNemo]

Lucky you I guess??

I can’t say as I’ve ever seen or heard of anyone else doing it but I guess it’s possible.

Won’t change my opinion that they’re a better design for when a cutoff wheel snags or if you accidentally have a wire wheel get caught or something. Dead man’s switch is much safer than a switch. I’ve seen switched grinders take off to the end of their cord and wreak all kinds of havoc when the operator loses their grip.

110% this...I have ONE grinder that is lock on and I basically never use it. The rest are all paddles and IMO far superior.

 

[Kenstone1]

I have a drawer full of HF Drill Master angle grinders.
There are 2 different SKUs of Drill Master grinders, made by 2 different makers.
Watch this vid to see the difference and which is the better grinder to buy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NSYFPBX/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Hint: I remember the grinder with the round red spindle lock button is the better one but don't recall the SKU.
(60625?). Watch the vid to confirm.
jmo,
.

 

[scooby074]

Get a cordless Milwaulkee.. Seriously. I have about 7 or 8 grinders, all good quality Makita, Bosch and Pneumatic, and Id rather change the wheel on the Milwaukee instead of dig out the corded.

 

[tarbellb]

If you want to spend
$10 get the HF
$50 Hitachi
$100 Makita
$200 Metabo

But save your money and get some good consumables, Pfred, United, Metabo, (coo IS important here) etc...

That's where you will really have troubles with safety and wasting money

and you only need a 4.5", anything bigger you better be a pro

 

[JRC3]

But save your money and get some good consumables, Pfred...

I used to buy cheap HF or Workforce, I bought a few PFERD to do my well casing (when I bought the Hitachi) because I wanted fast and straight...I can't go back now to the old. It's like using Diablo in a recip, there is no going back; But in a good way.

 

[Jswain]

Get a cordless Milwaulkee.. Seriously. I have about 7 or 8 grinders, all good quality Makita, Bosch and Pneumatic, and Id rather change the wheel on the Milwaukee instead of dig out the corded.

How many batteries do you have? Because you certainly aren't getting far grinding with 1, nor anything in the small amp/hr range....you're looking at a few bucks to get into something that honestly other then a quick job leaves a lot to be desired.

And agreed on spending more $$ on consumables that makes a huge difference, especially with the balance on wire wheels etc., The good stuff pays for itself usually.

 

[Sumboodie]

When your hand comes off the paddle the wheel stops, plugging it in you never have to worry about the locking switch being ON. Locking switch has its place. I have many. I just consider them more dangerous.

I hate paddle switch grinders.

If they had a lock to keep it on that wouldn't be too bad

 

[Sumboodie]

How many batteries do you have? Because you certainly aren't getting far grinding with 1, nor anything in the small amp/hr range....you're looking at a few bucks to get into something that honestly other then a quick job leaves a lot to be desired.

And agreed on spending more $$ on consumables that makes a huge difference, especially with the balance on wire wheels etc., The good stuff pays for itself usually.

I've done lots of projects with M18 grinders. They last a long time on a battery.