(Another) Compressor Piping Thread

[MAYOR28]

To go along with my shop build out (see signature), I have upgraded from a 30 gallon Kobalt Compressor to this big boi:

As you can see, I have installed it in a small room in the corner of the shop (28x40).



I plan to regulate the air inside of the compressor room with this (3/4" inlet/outlet) AMAZON LINKY:

I plan to run a main line down the back 40' wall with a few drops (3x total), and one drop on the compressor room wall. The drops will have these Prevost taps on the end:

(Individual taps will be Milton V-Style High Flow )


All of the main lines will be 3/4" black iron pipe (the Prevost inlets are 3/4"). I can source the pipe locally and I got a good deal on a Rigid Die Set. But I am unsure how to clamp the pipes to the wall. Can I use conduit-style clamps for the black iron pipe? Or is Iron Pipe too heavy for that?

Like this:

Or is there a better way to secure the pipes to the walls?

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[fitter30]

Unistrut and Rigid Steel Conduit Pipe Strut Clamp can be purchased at a electrical, plumbing supply or big box store. Conduit clamps really are not the correct size to fit around black pipe. They will work but are not heavy enough.

 

[MAYOR28]

Mount the unistrut to the wall, then mount the pipe to the unistrut?

Like this?

Next dumb question, can I buy small pre-cut pieces of unistrut?

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[56Mark]

Lowes has short pieces, about 2' long, but they are high priced I think. It cuts easy with a good hack saw, buy a 10' stick and cut it up. I think a 10' stick is $20. Electrical supply places here are usually a little cheaper.

 

[sberry]

2 hole straps. I piece and 2 screws.

 

[MAYOR28]

2 hole straps. I piece and 2 screws.

Like this?

I am thinking I would need to space this off the wall to compensate for unions and other protrusions from the lines.....but a simple block of wood may work for that.

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[ericlar80]

Lots of options on McMaster:
https://www.mcmaster.com/straps
https://www.mcmaster.com/pipe-routing-clamps
https://www.mcmaster.com/strut-channel-clamps

 

[MAYOR28]

I may not have stated it, but I am looking for the most economical option.

Hanging pipes on the wall is not the most glamorous, so I do not see a need to spend excess money for the clamps.....

 

[ericlar80]

I may not have stated it, but I am looking for the most economical option.

Hanging pipes on the wall is not the most glamorous, so I do not see a need to spend excess money for the clamps.....

- Buy a 2x4
- Cut to desired length
- Drill 3/4" hole in center of piece
- Cut in half
- Mount pipe between the two pieces
- Use 2 screws to both mount to the wall, and secure pipe into block

Essentially make one of these from wood:

 

[sberry]

Like this?

I am thinking I would need to space this off the wall to compensate for unions and other protrusions from the lines.....but a simple block of wood may work for that.

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Yes like that. cut a little piece of wood as wide and as long as the strap, screw right thru it for a stand off.

 

[matt_i]

I think the 2 hole metal strap plus an appropriate rectangle of plywood is cheapest. Ideally find the studs and use screws long enough to penetrate the framing behind. The unistrut route looks great but is more costly when its all added up.

 

[sberry]

Minnis too.

 

[gmwelder86]

If using steel two hole straps need to put 10 mil tap between copper and bracket. They make them in plastic and copper coated steel

 

[MAYOR28]

If using steel two hole straps need to put 10 mil tap between copper and bracket. They make them in plastic and copper coated steel

I'm not really following, can you explain what you mean?




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[larry4406]

I'm not really following, can you explain what you mean?




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Galvanic corrosion between strap and copper. Hence tape provides separation between the dissimilar metals. I think not relevant to you as you said you were using black pipe not copper.

 

[HenryAZ]

Or is there a better way to secure the pipes to the walls?

I used the pipe clamp/standoffs from TP Tools. The hose clamps are a bit unsightly, but the clamp setup using them secures the pipe very well, and gives a nice stand off from the wall.

TP Tools Wall Mounting Bracket Kit.

 

[MAYOR28]

I think I found a lead on some 'used' or left over unistrut. So I think I am going to go that route.


New question: For flexible line hook up, from the tank to the wall, will normal Hydraulic Lines work, or do they need to be specifically for Air?


Like this: TSC

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[nadogail]

Pneumatic and Hydraulic, not a lot of difference when you get down to it.

 

[MAYOR28]

Pneumatic and Hydraulic, not a lot of difference when you get down to it.

Yeah, on the fluids side I understand. But I thought the fittings were slightly different, no? O-Rings, or BUNA seals etc.....


Are the threaded hydraulic fittings true NPT?

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[sberry]

There are different types of hyd fittings, some have orings, the end of that one has a seat for fitting to a swivel but the rest of it is pipe thread. Screws in to common pipe fittings. You can use a swivel as a union too.
The hyd hose is high quality,,,, wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy better than it needs to be for air which is a good thing. Its really quite economical considering the fittings are ready made.

 

[MAYOR28]

There are different types of hyd fittings, some have orings, the end of that one has a seat for fitting to a swivel but the rest of it is pipe thread. Screws in to common pipe fittings. You can use a swivel as a union too.
The hyd hose is high quality,,,, wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy better than it needs to be for air which is a good thing. Its really quite economical considering the fittings are ready made.

Great news! Thank you for the help.

 

[TractorJeff]

I think I found a lead on some 'used' or left over unistrut. So I think I am going to go that route.


New question: For flexible line hook up, from the tank to the wall, will normal Hydraulic Lines work, or do they need to be specifically for Air?


Like this: TSC

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The TSC lines are NPT. Usually less than $50

 

[JCQuick]

I used 3/4" blk iron in my shop and used unistrut and pipe clamps

 

[MAYOR28]

Thank you all for the help so far!


Here is what I have for the layout so far:
Back Wall:

And inside the room with the regulator:

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[sberry]

I realize the drawings might not be true so,,, if this is down one wall I could do this with 10 ft sticks, 2 5 ft and some *******. 1 valve in this size building. Turn a t horiz on the top of a riser and go each way, use a tPlug as another coupling and about 20 ft of pipe and put drop to a hose reel. Could use the tcoupling to pipe across the place if you wanted and simply leave means. Those thingys are ok but would just as soon have a common T and I screw the reels on and don't have hydrants to move sections of hose,,, the whole point of supplying reels and the occasional fixed whip or hose is exactly so they do not get moved and the operators do not move sections of charged hose, the only qc are at the tool end. Only reason to have a piece of hose with connectors on the input is for an extension from a spare piece should it be absolute. Otherwise I grab the hose which reaches and connect the tool.
Not sure that is clear but trade several outlets for 1 well placed. I might put a union on a takeoff to go across but I can often simplify, use a hyd swivel at the start, they never leak and screw it all together, don't be so scared to back a couple pieces out if it ever comes to that, beats a gob of every fitting they ever invent just in case all up in the ceiling. I would put it together on the floor and hang it, can even test it.

 

[sberry]

Reason I say this is I might valve, hose to pipe then to a convenient location for a fil/reg and connect to reel and possibly extend the regulated line or even a second regulator. There are a bunch of ways to do it, I would start dimple as I could, beauty of threaded pipe is you can change it, add t, extend it. I hard piped mine in a remodel, I would pipe the manifold again and would go across with one of the air tubings just due to the fact I have 20 ft ceilings and piddle leaks are hard to deal with and slow to install. I woulda got a couple 100 ft rolls and made the long runs 1 piece with as much fitting as I could at ground level.
My building is bigger, I have hi line, then service valves at the fil/reg, in a smaller place might do it all single valve at tank.
Make it basically single circuit. As few fittings up high as it can be done.

 

[MAYOR28]

Reason I say ..................

I think I am following you, but I think the scale of my shop is significantly smaller than what you are describing. The plan is to do all of this with a few (3-4) 20' sticks of 3/4" pipe. I already have the outlets on hand (2 ports for each, I have 3 total), so those are going in somewhere.

Also confusing in my diagram, the reel will be mounted to the ceiling near my 4 post lift for car work. The stub that goes up the wall will traverse some of the ceiling for about 10 feet.

I also did not mention that the ceiling is only 14' feet high, the main line on the wall will be at roughly 7.5'-8' from the ground. This will give me plenty of room for storage below (and above) the line.

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[sberry]

That makes it nice to work on. There is some advantage to a tall vertical, any condensate tends to fall down. But that height makes it simple to install or change. There are a couple changes at first, they get less later but a huge benefit is that you canand to remember that God didn't put it there, it doesn't have to stay in the first place you install it and a lot of poor designs remain because,,,, I would hate to,,, don't want to do it twice,,, God forbid. Water hydrants the same way, drag a hose around the house for decades when the outlet needs to be moved.
I was in a tire shop the other day, he has cost himself a lot of labor, paid labor due to some pitiful simple piping, so far as too dumb to buy another piece of hose and use a portable outside the door vs the air on line he has, V8 gas engine at idle hours a week for decades. Water hose all the way across the shop every day, be different if it was once or occasionally but 100 ft workers go over drive over dozens of times a day. Same for the air.
It took me a long time to learn some of it, some trials but I don't have to walk on the cords and hoses and the service is instant.

 

[Keithinsc]

Like this?

I am thinking I would need to space this off the wall to compensate for unions and other protrusions from the lines.....but a simple block of wood may work for that.

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This is exactly what I used. I had access to a tubing bender, so I just joggled the tubes to make clearance for union joints. A block of wood under the strap would work perfect to space the piping away from the wall.
Also, I didn't use pipe to pipe couplers. I used a "T" instead. Plugged the 3rd leg of the "T" with another quick coupler. I have air coupler hookups every 10' that way.
(Edit) Looking at your CAD, ot looks like your drops are already T'd to join the pipes.
Hard piping my shop was the best thing I did. Next is to save up for a flex hose retractor wheel!

 

[bob15]

I like using split rings for black pipe. Something like this.:

Make sure you add a few unions (sorry if I missed it above). I would recommend US-made unions as they seal better than the import stuff. A "cheap" place to find them and domestic pipe fittings is the Supply House. They are also fast: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Black-Fittings-173000

 

[MAYOR28]

Thanks again for all the help!

The yellow blobs in the schematic are the unions. I have 3 in the compressor room, and 2 on the back wall to break up the run. Then each drop has a union just after the T-Tap on the Main Line.

 

[MAYOR28]

Make sure you add a few unions (sorry if I missed it above). I would recommend US-made unions as they seal better than the import stuff. A "cheap" place to find them and domestic pipe fittings is the Supply House. They are also fast: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Black-Fittings-173000

Awesome site! I just ordered all the fittings and ******* from them; supposed to deliver tomorrow!

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[sberry]

I could do this with 1. Maybe 2

 

[MAYOR28]

I could do this with 1. Maybe 2

1 or 2 Unions!?



If that is the case, jump in your car, come over and help me install this thing!

 

[sberry]

Yes. I design simple the best I can and am willing to back a couple fittings out to get something apart. Air seems to be funny about it, just reduces leaks. As I mention before, when I started plumbing and wiring I had to use every fitting they ever invented. I have had chances to redo some of my original work and am surprised sometimes as to how many pieces I eliminate.

 

[HyperPete]

This is what I am referencing as I run mine: https://www.tptools.com/tech-metal-piping.dlp

And, specifically, this: https://cached.tptools.com/Images/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

 

[bob15]

Yes. I design simple the best I can and am willing to back a couple fittings out to get something apart. Air seems to be funny about it, just reduces leaks. As I mention before, when I started plumbing and wiring I had to use every fitting they ever invented. I have had chances to redo some of my original work and am surprised sometimes as to how many pieces I eliminate.

Fittings and short stubs are one thing are one thing, but if you also need to break down a main line and/or longer runs or odd areas of access, unions are your friends. I had forgotten how many unions I put in on both my air piping and my LP piping and was quite happy I had installed as many as I did when I made major changes to both systems. It made my life easier......

 

[bob15]

Awesome site! I just ordered all the fittings and ******* from them; supposed to deliver tomorrow!

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Domestic or import? Hope domestic as I found them to be much, much better in quality over import fittings.

 

[MAYOR28]

Domestic or import? Hope domestic as I found them to be much, much better in quality over import fittings.

All domestic for me.

Thanks for the recommendation!

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[86turbodsl]

Mount the unistrut to the wall, then mount the pipe to the unistrut?

Like this?

Next dumb question, can I buy small pre-cut pieces of unistrut?

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Do yourself a huge favor and buy one of the chinese 4x6 bandsaws. Purchase of one of those drove the quality of my work up significantly and saved me a ton of work and time.