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Anyone else a Sun Equipment junkie??

bctexas

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Sep 6, 2015
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670
Location
Aubrey, TX
A husband/wife team ran an auto repair shop for which they purchased a new Sun 1015 back in the day. They moved to a business specializing in Model A Fords later on, located near me. Sadly, he passed recently and his wife is shutting the business down. I was introduced to her by a neighbor who is a Model A nut. The 1015 is still in the shop and I would like to help her place a value on it. It has not been used in years. Cosmetically it looks pretty good though a bit dusty. Any advice?

Thanks!
 
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bctexas

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Sep 6, 2015
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Aubrey, TX
Hi 930! Yeah, that has been on Ebay for some time. IMHO that number is inspired by watching too much Mecum auction on TV. Even if it is fully functional I think that is more than it is worth.

There are two others listed on Ebay, one at $800 and the other at $1500. The $3300 one is the only one that shows up as "sold", for $3300, by the same person who still has it for sale for $3300. So there are no completed sales that I can find as real comparisons. Asking prices are not the same as sale prices.

Anybody out there have a 1015 or 1115 willing to share how much they paid for it?

Thanks!
 

Old auto Jay

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Aug 9, 2023
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I was a rep for Sun Electric years ago which probably fueled my passion for automotive service and test equipment. Now if I see an old Sun machine, I have to have it. Not only are they some great garage art, they actually are quite useful for diagnosing engine and electrical automotive problems.
So,..just wondering if anyone else has Sun test equipment in their garage??

blksheep...in Charlotte
Yes I Do. A VAT-40 and a Distributor machine, very Handy to have around. Yes it has bin rebuilt. works like a dream. it has original paint and graphics a survivor.
I just work on the old stuff, that nobody understands anymore. Like Eek! Carbonators and Points ignitions.
I am looking for a working Sun 1015 if one exists? on the west coast? good is better than close. I taught with them for 32 years, Community College. I would love to have to work with again. I have a Heathkit TINY scope now. but its not the same.
or with the knowledge of this group, is there a better choice.
But I want/need raster, parade, superimposed and primary patterns.
 

Old auto Jay

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Aug 9, 2023
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Retired auto instructor, tinkering on old cars.
Looking for a working Sun 1015. Yes I just tinker on points distributors carburetors, all that old stuff.
To all Sun technicians, do you think I’ll be able to find one? And I live on the left coast.
 

bctexas

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Sep 6, 2015
Messages
670
Location
Aubrey, TX
Well, I made the lady an offer on the 1015, and she agreed. Picked it up this morning with the help of a couple good friends. It is a little shop worn, but presentable. And wonder of wonders, IT WORKS! Only thing I can find wrong with it is the clamp on the end of the "signal" cable which should be a wide silver clamp is instead a copy of the trigger clamp. So I borrowed the signal clamp off of my 947 for the test. I found a signal clamp on Ebay and ordered it. I'm beside my self - this is the first piece of old Sun gear I have bought recently that actually works.

There are three binders full of "Suntester Bulletins" from the 1980's.

Oh, and there was a VAT-28 in the cabinet and the seller said - take it along! The "Field Control" switch on the panel is broken off, and there is some rust on the face but it appears to be in pretty decent shape. I haven't tested it. There is also a (non-Sun) fuel injector cleaner kit with adapters and a printer gizmo for diagnosing 1980's era engine electronics that uses plastic punch cards for programming and prints diagnostics out on a roll of adding machine paper.
1015b.jpgvat28a.jpg
 

mark#3

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Feb 2, 2014
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404
Well, I made the lady an offer on the 1015, and she agreed. Picked it up this morning with the help of a couple good friends. It is a little shop worn, but presentable. And wonder of wonders, IT WORKS! Only thing I can find wrong with it is the clamp on the end of the "signal" cable which should be a wide silver clamp is instead a copy of the trigger clamp. So I borrowed the signal clamp off of my 947 for the test. I found a signal clamp on Ebay and ordered it. I'm beside my self - this is the first piece of old Sun gear I have bought recently that actually works.

There are three binders full of "Suntester Bulletins" from the 1980's.

Oh, and there was a VAT-28 in the cabinet and the seller said - take it along! The "Field Control" switch on the panel is broken off, and there is some rust on the face but it appears to be in pretty decent shape. I haven't tested it. There is also a (non-Sun) fuel injector cleaner kit with adapters and a printer gizmo for diagnosing 1980's era engine electronics that uses plastic punch cards for programming and prints diagnostics out on a roll of adding machine paper.
1015b.jpgvat28a.jpg
The 4 individual meters, free from the machine, got stolen so not use anymore
 

SoCal Tech

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Nov 20, 2023
Messages
3
Hi Everyone, Great thread. I realize this is a Sun thread but I'm looking for test leads for a Snap-On Counselor II oscilloscope from the 80s. Would consider purchasing an entire scope just for the leads if shipping is not a problem. Thanks!
 

Odd Job

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Apr 13, 2019
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1,383
Location
British Colombia
My fiend has a Sun Model TUT-915-R.

He got when when his boss told him to clean out this "old" stuff from the garage. It was all working when he brought it home, but he just let it sit in his home garage for years. Now everything works except the "kill" buttons.

I'm an electronics tech not a real car guy, so I looked online for a manual and someone recommended this forum.

Any ideas what could be wrong with the tester? Since none of the kill buttons work, I figure it must be something common to all 8 buttons. If I had a schematic maybe I could figure it out.

Know anyplace where I could find a schematic for the tester?

Thanks
This is an old post, if your still on here, I just acquired a TUT-915. The dwell wasn't working. I suspect troubleshooting these back in the day would involve replacing circuitboards one at a time or testing them in a working unit. Having no schematics, my troubleshooting is to inspect the boards for obvious visual issues and,if they look good, clean them. In this case one of the plug pins on the motherboard next to the tach/dwell board position was absolutely black. I cleaned it using a dremel with the small stainless wire wheel. Also gave all the others a brush. The motherboard itself was so filthy before cleaning that no lettering could be seen. Anyway, it solved the problem. It's not the first time disassembly/reassembly has led to a positive outcome.
 

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DCJets

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if your still on here
Most likely not. Last seen 2017...

Snatched a 'defective' 1010 a while ago. After opening up, it showed one of the pc-boards having disconnected from main board. Even dispite having been secured by a clamp across this and all other pc-boards.

Yes, a complete visual check should be mandatory prior powering up these old units first time in your hands. Also helpful: have an adjustable isolating transformer between wallplug and unit. Slowly increase voltage, allowing the condensators a soft wake up.
You'll never know, what happened to them before.
 

1930artdeco

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Dec 28, 2010
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Location
Lynden, Wa
I am in the same boat-I have a 46 model that may become a donor for the new machine. I have most of the parts to make it work again-minus the speed wheel. Just not sure yet.
 

four.cycle

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Oct 19, 2015
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Location
Tacoma, Washington
^ you guys check the links in post #132 - see if you might be able to find something at archive.org maybe ???
there are other links scattered throughout this thread, but the first couple I checked were dead links. (this is an old, old thread.)
 
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bctexas

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Sep 6, 2015
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Aubrey, TX
I've been looking for a TDT-11 for a while. Found this one on Ebay with a broken bezel, cracked glass and no cord. Got it cheap, and scrounged a bezel off of a non-working spare 214 timing light. A cleanup, new cord and clips and it looks much better. It uses a large 9v battery for the tach that is still available - for $30! A standard 9v doesn't fit. Will figure out a substitute. Meantime, the dwell meter (which uses a "D" cell) seems to work - sometimes. Needs a knob - I don't think I have one but I haven't searched my stash yet...

Before and after...

tdt 11 orig.jpgtdt11 clean smal.jpg
 

ArmyVW_GuyInTX

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May 17, 2013
Messages
460
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North of the Fort Worth/Dallas metro area
I've been looking for a TDT-11 for a while. Found this one on Ebay with a broken bezel, cracked glass and no cord. Got it cheap, and scrounged a bezel off of a non-working spare 214 timing light. A cleanup, new cord and clips and it looks much better. It uses a large 9v battery for the tach that is still available - for $30! A standard 9v doesn't fit. Will figure out a substitute. Meantime, the dwell meter (which uses a "D" cell) seems to work - sometimes. Needs a knob - I don't think I have one but I haven't searched my stash yet...

Before and after...

tdt 11 orig.jpgtdt11 clean smal.jpg
That cleaned up nicely!
 

Skellyii

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Nov 13, 2021
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KC Area
Wow!

It's too bad that I didn't know about this thread until today. I was at an estate sale a couple of months back, and the people running it mentioned that the guy that owned the house had been a Sun rep at one time. There was lots of Sun equipment, along with spare parts. I don't think that most of the people that attended the sale even knew what it most of the stuff was. My dad(RIP) worked at garages that had some of the cool Sun stuff, sadly I worked in the smaller places that couldn't afford it.

Pretty much everything was still there when it was 50% off. if I had known about this thread, I might have been able to grab a few pieces for you guys. :(
I took a picture of one of the rooms:

Sun.jpg
 

gooldg

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Dec 30, 2024
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2
Ok, guys, I am now looking for a parts manual, or service repair manual as I dive into the restoration of my 1120. I do already have the service manual or operator's manual but would really like to find the manual for repairing the unit itself. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Grant
 

DCJets

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Mar 14, 2024
Messages
78
Funny enough. I travelled the world, but did not manage heading sixty K southbound. But still having in mind...
 

DCJets

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Mar 14, 2024
Messages
78
Starting in the '60s (I believe) the unit serial numbers started with two numbers, and possibly a letter. For instance, the unit serial numbers in my 947's components start with "27" and "37". My understanding is that those numbers show the month, and the last digit of the year of manufacture. Inside the machine, I found "inspected by" stamps that show the year 1977. I also have a model 600 distributor machine that starts with "22", and it shows up in a 1961 catalog. A letter after these numbers indicates a revision as running changes were made.
Inspired by this post, I started checking my own units, as well as taking dataplate screenshots of units being for sale in eBay and other platforms.

Neither attempting to proove anybody wrong, nor having decoded the data plate.
Made The following observation: The serial number prefix of a two digit number followed by a letter was only to be found on units, manufactured in the Harlem and Avondale plant (Chicago) or Amsterdam, Netherlands.
I saw numbers up to 49, but never greater. The letters were mostly A, some B and one C.
Regarding the numbers, the first digit might reflect the quarter of the year.

The second digit might really stand for the year. But it goes over a period of approximately two decades. So how to identify the decade?

Regarding the letter, I feel it was not indicating revisions of the units. Taking the VAT-28 as example. Having Seen VAT-28-4 and VAT-28-7. To me the -4 and -7 are Standing for revisions. I would assume the Letter has a different meaning than a technical revision. But I cannot offer an explanation.

Units manufactured at Kings Lynn, England show a completely different style of serial number.
One Letter, followed by a three digit number, dash a two digit number.
Seen this with the small red sixties design testers like the 212 vacuum tester or they TDT-12. But it continues up to the blue eighties testers like the VAT-38 oder the big 1010.
 

DCJets

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Mar 14, 2024
Messages
78
Wow! Never seen such a tester before.
Great thing, perfekt condition.

This is a wonderful example for an unit, manufactured prior they started with that code in the serial numbers.

The round gauge indicates, it being older than the sixties testers with the rectangle gauges, to be seen in that 1961 cataloge. Red colour indicates it was manufactured later than the 1940s.
Early 1950s would be my guess.

That 1961 cataloge shows a Model SX-111 Stratotach, combining stroboscope and indicating tachometer as a boxed Instrument. But that ist clearly a later unit.
 

bctexas

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Sep 6, 2015
Messages
670
Location
Aubrey, TX
Inspired by this post, I started checking my own units, as well as taking dataplate screenshots of units being for sale in eBay and other platforms.
Hi DCjets,

You could well be correct on all counts. My thoughts are based on observation, but admittedly without documentation from Sun, and perhaps not the depth of research you have done.

Happy motoring!
 

DCJets

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Mar 14, 2024
Messages
78
Hej bctexas,
as mentioned, no offense. Am really glad you started looking at these speciallity in those serial numbers. Coz without that inspiration I would not have gotten curious or started my research.

Unfortunately everything Sun did, seems being a secret.
Usually there would be a printing date or revision status to be found on all documentation ever published by a manufacturer. Good luck finding such in Sun manuals...
 
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