Anyone ever removed a toilet before?

[signcrafter]

Do they thread into the cast iron flange? They make headless toilet bolts, https://www.doitbest.com/product/40...wyybv1bTNhetZpErAZpXNcCwvol66Qy0aAoZhEALw_wcB. If you can't find them locally you can cut the head off a regular(longer) toilet bolt. Screw it into the cast and then use a nut to tighten it down. This will give you the proper stud. Make sure the threads are good in the cast and that they are going to hold the bolt good and make sure that wasn't the reason it loosened up and started leaking.

As for that spacer it's supposed to be siliconed to the cast. I would rip that out and either just use an extra thick wax ring or if you want/need to reuse that spacer I would take it off and clean everything up good and re silicone it to make sure that wasn't why it was leaking. Personally I would just get a new one, they are cheap.

 

[cgrutt]

Didn't read through all this so apologies if its already resolved but believe you should replace the white flange with the version of this flange that fits snuggly in your drain pipe. They come in different sizes. Screw flange down to subfloor install new T bolts with thread up in the slots on flange. New wax ring and reset toilet. What you have there is really odd. Good luck.



ETA this pic looks like shower flange you need a toilet flange there shouldn't be any screws inside pipe as shown in pic. Believe that is for a shower grate. Sorry bad pic.

 

[no704]

Get new T bolts. Get real brass lots of cheap coated ones on the market. Get an extra set of nuts and washers. Install nuts and washer on that flange before the toilet. New wax ring and place toilet and snug down. Calk toilet to flooring except a couple inches in the back. Calk is 100% required as it will stop rocking and protect your wax ring seal.

 

[signcrafter]

Didn't read through all this so apologies if its already resolved but believe you should replace the white flange with the version of this flange that fits snuggly in your drain pipe. They come in different sizes. Screw flange down to subfloor install new T bolts with thread up in the slots on flange. New wax ring and reset toilet. What you have there is really odd. Good luck.



ETA this pic looks like shower flange you need a toilet flange there shouldn't be any screws inside pipe as shown in pic. Believe that is for a shower grate. Sorry bad pic.

Your picture is of a toilet flange. Those screws you tighten and it compresses that rubber seal to make it tight against the pipe.

 

[cgrutt]

Your picture is of a toilet flange. Those screws you tighten and it compresses that rubber seal to make it tight against the pipe.

Thanks haven't seen one like that before. Saw screws after I posted and was confused.

 

[AEAdam]

I get that it is not perfect but it held up for more than 15 years. I am tempted to give a try at putting ot back the way it was. If I were going to down the bathroom long term for a remodel, I would re-engineer it, hire professionals etc. but not at this time.

Here's the problem with your logic. If you didn't know any better, God, or the god of home repairs, would take pity on your ignorance and allow you to use that toilet for 15 trouble free years. But because you KNOW it's wrong, and just don't want to fix it, you risk our God's wrath. The God of home repairs and DIY- everything is a vengeful God, better not tested or trifled with. If it's your only toilet, I get it.

My father had a motto- never start a plumbing job on a Sunday. You get into the middle of it and all the stores are closed.

 

[Shiftless]

My father had a motto- never start a plumbing job on a Sunday. You get into the middle of it and all the stores are closed.

That’s my motto as well.
Plumbing jobs are the only jobs that have ever forced me to go the the hardware store 3 times in one day.

 

[ChefRex]

My toilet just started leaking at the base. Time for a new wax ring. Never done this particular task before but it looks simple.

So I remove the decorative caps that cover the stud and nut that hold the toilet in place. No nuts are there.

What is this and how does it come apart?

Is that a hamburger?

 

[impactims]

This is what I went with. Just seemed like a better way to go.

I will report back.

 

[RonnieC]

My father had a motto- never start a plumbing job on a Sunday. You get into the middle of it and all the stores are closed.

And if something goes majorly wrong you have to pay emergency rates for a plumber.

 

[impactims]

All done.

Yes, I am aware that better hardware exists.

I’m just not looking to open a can of worms on a Sunday afternoon. I simply can’t roll the dice and hope nothing goes wrong. The bathroom must be fully operational in short order. As in, like, TONIGHT.

I installed that Fluidmaster “Better Than Wax” ring and all seems well.

I flushed a few times and I don’t see any water. I lined the area and tucked paper towels under and around it as best I could. I will be monitoring them for wetness. After a few flushes, all dry so far. I will monitor for a few weeks before I call it a success.

When I can disable the bathroom long term without issue, I will work on making other improvements. For now, I just had to get it working and stop the leak.

 

[Red 17]

And then you can swap in a "4X4 Long Bed" toilet, so you'll have more room to do paperwork and enjoy more freedom of "movement".

 

[steves_001]

Well done! Got it finished! I like those new style gaskets as well and use them now whenever pulling a toilet. Looks like your bolts are oriented correctly now too.

 

[impactims]

Well done! Got it finished! I like those new style gaskets as well and use them now whenever pulling a toilet. Looks like your bolts are oriented correctly now too.

I’m a little concerned that the top of the gasket does not seat firmly against the bottom of the toilet. No real way to check other than measuring before hand to see where it “ends up.” I know that the outlet of the toilet ends up into the inlet of the gasket by an inch or so and the outlet of the gasket sits an inch or so down into the drain pipe. I think it’s good, but I’m monitoring closely!

 

[Beerhippie]

And then you can swap in a "4X4 Long Bed" toilet, so you'll have more room to do paperwork and enjoy more freedom of "movement".

Yeah, short rounds ****. If you have room, a long oval is much more comfy.

 

[Sumboodie]

All done.

Yes, I am aware that better hardware exists.

I’m just not looking to open a can of worms on a Sunday afternoon. I simply can’t roll the dice and hope nothing goes wrong. The bathroom must be fully operational in short order. As in, like, TONIGHT.

I installed that Fluidmaster “Better Than Wax” ring and all seems well.

I flushed a few times and I don’t see any water. I lined the area and tucked paper towels under and around it as best I could. I will be monitoring them for wetness. After a few flushes, all dry so far. I will monitor for a few weeks before I call it a success.

When I can disable the bathroom long term without issue, I will work on making other improvements. For now, I just had to get it working and stop the leak.

Seat on a pail, pee out in the woods or in the shower.

 

[Sumboodie]

Yeah, short rounds ****. If you have room, a long oval is much more comfy.

Especially the ones that are like 12" off the ground. About need a chain over the turdlet to help get up.

 

[PCustoms]

I flushed a few times and I don’t see any water. I lined the area and tucked paper towels under and around it as best I could. I will be monitoring them for wetness. After a few flushes, all dry so far. I will monitor for a few weeks before I call it a success.

Does it rock?

Should not be able to tuck anything under a well installed throne IMHO

 

[signcrafter]

I’m a little concerned that the top of the gasket does not seat firmly against the bottom of the toilet. No real way to check other than measuring before hand to see where it “ends up.” I know that the outlet of the toilet ends up into the inlet of the gasket by an inch or so and the outlet of the gasket sits an inch or so down into the drain pipe. I think it’s good, but I’m monitoring closely!

Can't be too concerned because you didn't listen to anything people said, people who have installed hundreds of toilets. I even offered a solution to be able to use nuts on top, without any major work. But guess the upside down t bolts work better for you.

Judging by the joint in tile to the left of the toilet that looks like atypical diy tile job and isn't level. They make special shims for the toilet for that. If you can slide toilet paper under the toilet you need shims. I'm sure that was a waste of typing also shims who needs them, I got upside down t bolts to hold my toilets down.

 

[AEAdam]

Can't be too concerned because you didn't listen to anything people said, people who have installed hundreds of toilets. I even offered a solution to be able to use nuts on top, without any major work. But guess the upside down t bolts work better for you.

Judging by the joint in tile to the left of the toilet that looks like atypical diy tile job and isn't level. They make special shims for the toilet for that. If you can slide toilet paper under the toilet you need shims. I'm sure that was a waste of typing also shims who needs them, I got upside down t bolts to hold my toilets down.

Don't be mad at him. He's doing his best. I'll bet he read every post carefully or will again after your post and will know for next time, which is all that's really important. I don't think he put the t-bolts back in upside down.

@impactims One of the concerns I think @signcrafter may have and isn't saying out loud is, the joint between the toilet and the flange isn't really all that critical, because, as you said, the toilet sticks down into the flange. The thing we worry about, and the reason I would have told you to stick with a wax ring is, the risk of potential release of sewer gas. Its not just unpleasant, its a bit dangerous and unheathy. Its methane and its flammable and unhealthy to breathe.

So, the only real trick to installing a toilet (I've installed several, not as many as @signcrafter) is you need to get that base right. The floor should be perfectly flat, or failing that, the tiles should be perfectly flat, or failing that, the flange should be, and then the toilet is shimmed to meet the floor. So you want that flange seal to be AIR TIGHT, which means it will also be water tight. When shims are used, most people then apply sealant around the base. That's not a substitute for an air seal, but its probably better than nothing. I would use the elastomer seal if a floor was perfectly flat. Maybe not if it isnt. Also, toilets are castings and they can be irregular. Again, another reason for wax over elastomer.

When you are messing with toilets, a lot of time there's enough water in the drains so that they don't stink. The stink happens when the lines start to dry out. So you can get a sort of false positive.

Here's what I would do from where you are.

1. Make sure you do a rock test. The toilet should be rock solid.
2. Check the floor for level in both directions, then check the top of the bowl. If the floor is level and the bowl matches, chances are the flange you mounted to was level and the seal will work fine. If something gives you pause, you've done this once and can do it again.
3. Don't discount even the slightest whiff of sewer. You will most likely encounter it after a return to the house after being away for a few days, with the bathroom door closed.
4. If you have to redo it, redo it! You got this. If you've done it once, you can do it again. My motto is, if i built it, I can fix it (so I build everything).

 

[signcrafter]

Don't be mad at him. He's doing his best. I'll bet he read every post carefully or will again after your post and will know for next time, which is all that's really important. I don't think he put the t-bolts back in upside down.

@impactims One of the concerns I think @signcrafter may have and isn't saying out loud is, the joint between the toilet and the flange isn't really all that critical, because, as you said, the toilet sticks down into the flange. The thing we worry about, and the reason I would have told you to stick with a wax ring is, the risk of potential release of sewer gas. Its not just unpleasant, its a bit dangerous and unheathy. Its methane and its flammable and unhealthy to breathe.

So, the only real trick to installing a toilet (I've installed several, not as many as @signcrafter) is you need to get that base right. The floor should be perfectly flat, or failing that, the tiles should be perfectly flat, or failing that, the flange should be, and then the toilet is shimmed to meet the floor. So you want that flange seal to be AIR TIGHT, which means it will also be water tight. When shims are used, most people then apply sealant around the base. That's not a substitute for an air seal, but its probably better than nothing. I would use the elastomer seal if a floor was perfectly flat. Maybe not if it isnt. Also, toilets are castings and they can be irregular. Again, another reason for wax over elastomer.

When you are messing with toilets, a lot of time there's enough water in the drains so that they don't stink. The stink happens when the lines start to dry out. So you can get a sort of false positive.

Here's what I would do from where you are.

1. Make sure you do a rock test. The toilet should be rock solid.
2. Check the floor for level in both directions, then check the top of the bowl. If the floor is level and the bowl matches, chances are the flange you mounted to was level and the seal will work fine. If something gives you pause, you've done this once and can do it again.
3. Don't discount even the slightest whiff of sewer. You will most likely encounter it after a return to the house after being away for a few days, with the bathroom door closed.
4. If you have to redo it, redo it! You got this. If you've done it once, you can do it again. My motto is, if i built it, I can fix it (so I build everything).

I'm not mad, just feel like I wasted my time trying to help someone that really didn't want help. Oh well.

Look at his picture with the toilet paper leak detection system, the T bolts were put back down upside down just like they came out. All he had to do was cut the T head off the bolts and thread them into the threaded holes in the flange and he could have used a nut to secure the toilet instead of trying to tighten it up by turning the upside down T head with a pliers. Wouldn't have cost a thing and taken 2 minutes and at least been better then goofy upside down T bolts.

I just don't get how we have a 2 page thread with good suggestions from members and we decide to go with the it's been good for 15 years so throw it back wrong and it should be good for another 15 approach instead of at least trying to improve it a little. Not my house so I shouldn't give 2 craps how he does it or if works. Tried to help but guess I'll just save my time next time someone asks for help.

 

[impactims]

Does it rock?

Should not be able to tuck anything under a well installed throne IMHO

Does not rock. The tiles of the floor not all perfectly flat and level to each other. In some spots a sheet of paper will fit under the toilet.

 

[PCustoms]

Look at his picture with the toilet paper leak detection system, the T bolts were put back down upside down just like they came out.

SMH...

Looked at the flange with bolts and didn't catch this gem.

 

[impactims]

Can't be too concerned because you didn't listen to anything people said, people who have installed hundreds of toilets. I even offered a solution to be able to use nuts on top, without any major work. But guess the upside down t bolts work better for you.

Judging by the joint in tile to the left of the toilet that looks like atypical diy tile job and isn't level. They make special shims for the toilet for that. If you can slide toilet paper under the toilet you need shims. I'm sure that was a waste of typing also shims who needs them, I got upside down t bolts to hold my toilets down.

Don’t worry, this will get done the best possible way at a later date when I can dedicate more time to it. I simply did what I had to do to get it running leak free ASAP. So far, it was a success. Not saying everything about it is perfect, but it does not rock and it does not leak. I will do as you state when I down the bathroom long term.

 

[signcrafter]

Don’t worry, this will get done the best possible way at a later date when I can dedicate more time to it. I simply did what I had to do to get it running leak free ASAP. So far, it was a success. Not saying everything about it is perfect, but it does not rock and it does not leak. I will do as you state when I down the bathroom long term.

I get it and glad you got it working. I don't get why anyone would put T bolts back in upside down when 2 minutes would have cut the head off and allowed you to use a proper nut and wrench to install your toilet. I've learned over the years that just slapping things back together ASAP usually doesn't work out good and it's better to take an extra few minutes to do it as proper as you can, even if it's a hurry and just temporary. Usually it will come back to bite you and end up taking 3 times as long when you have to redo it because ASAP didn't work.

Sorry if I was a little harsh but was just trying to help and was frustrated when everything that was suggested by members got ignored when I saw the upside down bolts put back in when at least that could have been fixed for free and 2 minutes of time.

 

[impactims]

SMH...

Looked at the flange with bolts and didn't catch this gem.

Yes, bolts back as they were. As stated many times now, I had to get it running leak free asap, that Sunday evening, without fail, working with what I had. I will redo to perfection at a later date when I can plan for it and the bathroom can be down for a length of time.

 

[cherrybomb]

And being your first time ,maybe a bit nervous,you were wise coming here with questions and pictures.We have all been in your predicament. Maybe not in your case,but in some cases floors settle,the guy that puts in the tile,doesn't quite get it right.Now the next guy has to adapt.Or put the bolts in incorrectly after the previously installation. It is wise to have extra parts when you start a project like this.If it was me doing this job,I would have plastic shims,extra hold bolts that are brass.If this is your first time,extra wax ring,save your receipt.I'm also a firm believer in that shut off valve should be lever not the twisty faucet type. Now is the time to stand back and judge your work,ask yourself,what could I do differently. And go back and read and think about all the replies from all the responses. There's lots of talent and experienced guys on this forum,willing to share it.We all learn,that's why I enjoy this experience. And after looking back,is that shut off valve a quick turn type,that's the one I do recommend

 

[Beerhippie]

I once had a call from a friend who had bought an old farmhouse here in Wallowa county. He said his toilet was leaking badly and asked if I could come take a look at it--on the clock.

The "plumber" (likely the farmer himself) had simply cut through a floor joist to install the new-fangled flush toilet, as the house undoubtedly had an outhouse when built. The floor had sagged several inches under the toilet as a result, and the joist stubs and flooring were all rotten. I had to jack up and replace the entire floor of the bathroom and sister in two joists either side of the toilet flange. I also had to replace the old, now cracked, CI plumbing of the toilet drain.

Farmers are very creative and great problem solvers, but their solutions are often mighty janky.

Another fifteen-minute job turned into a week-long rebuild.

 

[rharman]

Yes, bolts back as they were. As stated many times now, I had to get it running leak free asap, that Sunday evening, without fail, working with what I had. I will redo to perfection at a later date when I can plan for it and the bathroom can be down for a length of time.

I am really confused. Looking at the picture with the silicone seal, I see studs. Then, the finished/installed picture shows the upside down t-bolts. What happened?

 

[impactims]

I am really confused. Looking at the picture with the silicone seal, I see studs. Then, the finished/installed picture shows the upside down t-bolts. What happened?

Those were studs I had laying around that I used to guide the toilet into place. I took them out once into position. Then used the bolts, upside down. Why didn’t I just leave the studs in? Threads were shot, too short…,no useable.

 

[rd65]

Not a plumber, don't pretend to be but seems to me that you may not see any water until the toilet is stopped up if the seal is in question. As for the haters, they can take their ball and go home. Your skill/tool set are likely not the same as theirs or you wouldn't have posted the question in the first place. Dont sweat it. Leak is only an issue if it is long term, the floor wont rot out in a day or a week. Good luck, it's beer thirty.

 

[impactims]

Not a plumber, don't pretend to be but seems to me that you may not see any water until the toilet is stopped up if the seal is in question. As for the haters, they can take their ball and go home. Your skill/tool set are likely not the same as theirs or you wouldn't have posted the question in the first place. Dont sweat it. Leak is only an issue if it is long term, the floor wont rot out in a day or a week. Good luck, it's beer thirty.

I was clear up front that I have NEVER removed a toilet. My toilet installation skills and experience were ZERO and now they are just above zero. It seems fine now and this is how it will stay until I remodel or have another leak.

 

[AEAdam]

This isn’t Reddit. There are no “haters” here. Every person offering advice wants the absolute best for @impactims.

If anything, I would describe this thread, and most GJ threads, as “dad-centric”. At the end of the day, whether we are recommending a tool, or sharing our garage based experiences, our posts intend to help. And they can be critical.

Head over to SewingJournal.com if you want the moms there to validate whatever you do, whatever purchases you make. @impactims came to the right place and got good responses.

Mrs AEAdam would say ”good job, you fixed something yourself instead of calling a plumber. And you did it with very little money, and without inconveniencing your family with a broken toilet”. Mrs AEAdam doesn’t post or read garagejournal. People come here for us to tell them “next time do it this way”. That’s not hate.

 

[signcrafter]

This isn’t Reddit. There are no “haters” here. Every person offering advice wants the absolute best for @impactims.

If anything, I would describe this thread, and most GJ threads, as “dad-centric”. At the end of the day, whether we are recommending a tool, or sharing our garage based experiences, our posts intend to help. And they can be critical.

Head over to SewingJournal.com if you want the moms there to validate whatever you do, whatever purchases you make. @impactims came to the right place and got good responses.

Mrs AEAdam would say ”good job, you fixed something yourself instead of calling a plumber. And you did it with very little money, and without inconveniencing your family with a broken toilet”. Mrs AEAdam doesn’t post or read garagejournal. People come here for us to tell them “next time do it this way”. That’s not hate.

I got a good laugh at the guy saying everyone giving advice are haters. To be honest it's not my house or my work so I really should care less if it leaks or fills the house with sewer gases. I was just trying to give the best advice and help someone out, so guess I'm a "hater" for that. I even gave advice on how to improve it with zero cost and very minimal time. But I guess everyone trying to help are haters, sounds like we are all back in middle school hating on each other by helping.

 

[rd65]

I got a good laugh at the guy saying everyone giving advice are haters. To be honest it's not my house or my work so I really should care less if it leaks or fills the house with sewer gases. I was just trying to give the best advice and help someone out, so guess I'm a "hater" for that. I even gave advice on how to improve it with zero cost and very minimal time. But I guess everyone trying to help are haters, sounds like we are all back in middle school hating on each other by helping.

your reading comprehension could use some work, didnt say everyone. some seemed to get upset at the guy for not following their instructions/suggestions. maybe he doesnt have that skill set, maybe he doesnt have that extra 30-180 minutes, maybe he had to make do with tools/$$ he has. he made it work for him.

 

[CGarage]

I can’t believe all of you are recommending a

WAX RING

in year 2025!!!


That is a Fred Flintstone era solution! And a bad one!

 

[LOW1]

I can’t believe all of you are recommending a

WAX RING

in year 2025!!!


That is a Fred Flintstone era solution! And a bad one!

I have never used anything but a wax ring.

I have no plans to ever use anything but a wax ring.

I would especially use a wax ring in the OPs situation.

But not my situation or problem.

 

[Beerhippie]

I can’t believe all of you are recommending a

WAX RING

in year 2025!!!


That is a Fred Flintstone era solution! And a bad one!

Been working since ol' Fred first punched the clock, and still working just fine today. Hell, I've torn out old toilets that had two stacked to make up for flooring additions and were still holding up decades later.

 

[CGarage]

I have never used anything but a wax ring.

I have no plans to ever use anything but a wax ring.

I would especially use a wax ring in the OPs situation.

But not my situation or problem.

The only possible benefit I see to a wax ring is in the area of possible cost savings. But the cost differential is so small that it is stupid to select wax in this era.

Wax rings are vastly inferior to the universal rubber toilet gaskets available on the market nowadays.

 

[CGarage]

Been working since ol' Fred first punched the clock, and still working just fine today. Hell, I've torn out old toilets that had two stacked to make up for flooring additions and were still holding up decades later.

That may be. But having spoken to my builder and his plumbers:

1) Only one chance to get install right. If you are working in a tight space and you manage to not set the toilet correctly on the first try, you can easily compress the wax ring and damage it, necessitating a replacement.

2) Prone to leaks and degradation over time- more so than the universal rubber / synthetic options

3) Can be damaged via aggressive chemicals and or mechanical plunging / drain snakes

4) Typically not supplied in a kit with multiple flanges and adapters to compensate for variances in floor and drain configurations (universal rubber toilet drain seals normally come as a kit and these additional pieces are included as part of the kit).


I will never go back to using wax rings and the rest of the world should catch on, hopefully.