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Arbor Press

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D45

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What's the best method to strip off the old paint?

I have heard oven cleaner?

Or I wonder if I could paint right over everything? Nothing is really flaking or chipping off, it's just work off
 
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jakemac

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For smaller items, I let them soak in a bucket of undiluted Simple Green for a week. Then scrub off the paint with a nylon brush and after drying, finish on the wire wheel.

For something that large ........... you're gonna need a bigger bucket.
 

senlow

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I use actual paint removers ... I have not heard Oven Cleaner results... so ... don't know.

I look for MethalineChloride (spelled wrong)... use in a ventilated area... two layers of gloves... don't dare have kids around...

Oven cleaners typically have methylene chloride in them.
 

Showkey

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Oven cleaners typically have methylene chloride in them.

Nope^^^^^^^^. Sodium hydroxide aka LYE. But there is other stuff in there too. Some say those other things can be nasty. Mostly lye and some variations of ethanol and butane as the propellant.

Lye will strip paint.

https://www.wired.com/2008/05/st-easyoff/

http://www.beyondtoxics.org/work/green-home-cleaning-campaign/ovencleaner/

http://www.rbnainfo.com/MSDS/US/EASY-OFF-Oven-Cleaner-Heavy-Duty-US-English.pdf
 
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Jawn

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I have yet to find any project where the 20T hydraulic press can't do and arbor press can......but there are limits to the arbor presss ........so no need to have both, even if the arbor press is free.:3gears:

I have the HF press and want a large-ish arbor press. HF press is a PITA when trying to push a 8" long broach. Also, not so much "feel" for the broach with a hydraulic press... afraid I may break it, and DuMont broaches aren't cheap!

I keep looking for a 3+ tonner, but always seem to be super tight on money when I come across one. Missed out on a Dake that was on ebay a while back, now considering an import with stand I've seen semi-locally...
 
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D45

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Tearing the press apart this week and weekend, going to make it new(er)

I have a large deep pan that I will use to help strip the old finish

Any suggestions for paint? Do I need a primer coat or just a good quality machine paint?
 

senlow

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Nope^^^^^^^^. Sodium hydroxide aka LYE. But there is other stuff in there too. Some say those other things can be nasty. Mostly lye and some variations of ethanol and butane as the propellant.

Lye will strip paint.

https://www.wired.com/2008/05/st-easyoff/

http://www.beyondtoxics.org/work/green-home-cleaning-campaign/ovencleaner/

http://www.rbnainfo.com/MSDS/US/EASY-OFF-Oven-Cleaner-Heavy-Duty-US-English.pdf

Of course. What was I thinking. Thanks for correcting my ******* comment.
 
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D45

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Well the tear down went smooth with no surprises, other than the bent lever/handle with a mushroomed end.........stuck in the pinion

Need to decide what to do with it, straighten it or replace it

All the teeth looked great and there was plenty of thick grease packed into the valley

Next step is to degrease it all and start removing all the paint

I am not sure what purpose the hose clamp served

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D45

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I need to find a new 7/8" thick rod for this press......I assume solid will be the strongest

What type of steel?

Stainless steel or no?

I see I can get solid rod in MANY types:
Cold rolled 12L14 Steel
Chrome Moly 41L40 Steel
H13 Tool Steel
1144 Fatigue Proof Steel
4130 Steel Rod
8620 Alloy Steel Rod
4140/4142 Steel Rod
 

ndnchf

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I have a Dake 1-1/2 (3 ton). I cleaned and painted it up, it's as good as new now. I use it quite often, it's a great tool.
 

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D45

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4 coats of aircraft remover ($11.50 quart) and some light scraping with a putty knife and the majority of the finish came off

I used a wire wheel to make certain it was clean and then rubbed the entire press down with some mineral spirits

The grease cavity was hosed down pretty good with some brake cleaner

I will let it dry overnight and hopefully get two coats of primer on it tomorrow

It is looking GREAT


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D45

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All cleaned up and drying after a double cleaning with a mineral spirit soaked rag:


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D45

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I ordered a new lever, 7/8"x32" with both ends drilled and tapped (1/2"-20x2")......just in case I decide to add some end grip knobs down the road

I went with 1144 solid steel
 

ndnchf

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Thought I would share an accessory I made for use with my press. Occasionally mine is used to straighten out something that is bent. It really helps to have a larger working surface, so I cleaned up a 3 foot section of I-beam to use as an extended surface. Its very handy,
 

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skipnay

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I came in this thread to see what you use an arbor press for and I still don't know. One thing I do know is some of these look nice. I guess I will youtube it.
 
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D45

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I am trying to figure out why there is a small steel plug in the E, of Dake

I wonder if I should try to grind it down......i can't find any others with this
 
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Plastikosmd

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1/2 ton greenard in the reloading room
5 ton greenard in automotive area
12 ton famco in machine shop

15 ton Hydraulic press just sits collecting dust
 

lis2323

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Thought I would share an accessory I made for use with my press. Occasionally mine is used to straighten out something that is bent. It really helps to have a larger working surface, so I cleaned up a 3 foot section of I-beam to use as an extended surface. Its very handy,



I LIKE that. Great idea![emoji106]
 

lis2323

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So, how do you affix it, and how do you use it? Inquiring minds want to know! Pictures, too, please.



Here's a pic of my Dake. Also snapped a pic of my drill chuck. It's magnetically held in place.

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Hope this helps.
 

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D45

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Well, interesting discovery......for some unknown reason, the piece near the E was a small piece of thread

Maybe from a bolt? I just used a punch from the other side and it came right out.....ODD
 

Plastikosmd

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lis2323

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I used this for pressing a pin out of my daughter’s bracelet (and other small precise work)

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lis2323

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I on the other hand am exactly opposite. I use my homemade hydraulic press way more than my arbor press.

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D45

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Maybe the friction rivet was worn out. Someone added an eye bolt at the "E", then hooked a spring from it to the handle or handwheel. Get your friction set right and you won't need it.

Ok, I am new to this.......friction rivet? Adjustment?
 
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D45

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Second coat of primer is drying.........gloss grey enamel will be my finish coat

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ndnchf

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A little late now, but you might want to mask off all the machined working surfaces. All those up in the head area are fairly close tolerance. When you assemble it with the 4 bolt cover plate, you use shims to take up any slack. Paint on all those surfaces may cause binding until it wears off. I just restored mine back in the summer and went through all this.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370855&highlight=dake


Been there, done that :beer:
 
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D45

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I didn't really use primer on any working area inside the head

The shims make sense, because there were two behind the 4 bolt cover plate

What kind of grease should I use when putting it back together? It will be a few weeks , but I want to start looking around in case I need to buy some

I also was not sure I should paint or primer the main press area, but I did anyways. If it flakes or wears off then I guess that's ok too
 

ndnchf

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OK, sorry. In the photo it looked like primer was on the inside of the head area.

I used some red wheel bearing grease on the gear teeth. Initially I put it on the sides of the ram also. But I found it too slippery for the friction rivet to hold the ram up, even with the rivet spring adjustment tight. So I wiped it off that side of the ram and put a thin film of light oil on it to prevent rusting. That worked much better.
 
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