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Are these flared ends for solde? Any other options?

luvit

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See pics of my end result of soldering copper, please

Are these flared ends for solder? Any other options?
attachment.php
 

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rlitman

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Sure.

BTW, that tubing, like the tubing in most baseboard radiators, is thinner walled than M copper, so it cannot safely be used directly with a sharkbite (I don't think they make a supporting insert for it), so I wouldn't suggest cutting off the flares.
 

dogdog

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It might not be a flare.... It just look like a join (sleeve) preload with solder.. those... except the in port seems to be deform from playing with the monkey. You might have to find a way to make it "round" and "great" again. Solder is fine for Hot water / water/

The out port just looks like it's been tinned for your convenience.
 

rlitman

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It might not be a flare.... It just look like a join (sleeve) preload with solder.. those... except the in port seems to be deform from playing with the monkey. You might have to find a way to make it "round" and "great" again. Solder is fine for Hot water / water/

The out port just looks like it's been tinned for your convenience.

It isn't a flare. I just chose to gloss over the incorrect terminology, since a flare has a specific meaning that really doesn't apply here.

It is expanded (swaged), so that ordinary copper pipe will slip in for sweating without needing a coupler. If you need an elbow there, you'll want a street elbow, since it will not fit into a normal fitting.

It does look like it was heated, but I suspect they just heated it up to soften the copper for swaging (to prevent splitting). I guess it could be tinned, but I don't see it.

Yes, it might require a little persuasion to get it round enough to accept the pipe. The easiest way to coax it would be to use a swaging die on it again. This might be too long, but you get the idea:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Professional-6-in-1-Swaging-Tool-80-538-111/304341669
husky-flaring-swagging-tools-80-538-111-64_1000.jpg


My own set of swaging dies only has one step per piece, so it wouldn't risk poking through something inside like that Husky. Here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT0O3OE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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yeldogt

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The factory expanded the pipe -- the made a fitting.

Side the supply and return pipe in and solder ......
 
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luvit

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Please see attached pics. I haven't soldered pipe for 20yrs. I worked the solder from bottom to top.. there was some capillary action, but not as much as I wanted to see it **** with that swagged end.. lol.. seems like the capillary action was enough for the outer lip.
This is a non-pressurized circulator..
You may not be able to tell much from the pics.. What say you?
 

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luvit

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Good idea. But i just completed the 2nd joint. No pin holes in the first joint. 2nd joint didn't turn out as well. It was pretty out of round and I felt I re-rounded it slightly too big.
I reheated this 2nd one and felt it took more solder.. reheating may be a no no, though.
See pics. Thanks for all the feedback.
 

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rlitman

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Still looks fine to me. Solder will fill available space. It's just the nature of sweating. There is quite a bit of room for sloppy joints.
 

pepi

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Good idea. But i just completed the 2nd joint. No pin holes in the first joint. 2nd joint didn't turn out as well. It was pretty out of round and I felt I re-rounded it slightly too big.
I reheated this 2nd one and felt it took more solder.. reheating may be a no no, though.
See pics. Thanks for all the feedback.

Smart that looks much better, seal wise.
 

rlitman

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I used to use a wet towel until a plumber showed me to use a dry one. Wet towels steam up and get hot. A dry towel, so long as you move quick and don't burn it, will stay cool to the touch.

I reserve wet towels for when I need to freeze solder quickly (not something that comes up much).
 

dogdog

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I used to use a wet towel until a plumber showed me to use a dry one. Wet towels steam up and get hot. A dry towel, so long as you move quick and don't burn it, will stay cool to the touch.

I reserve wet towels for when I need to freeze solder quickly (not something that comes up much).

LMFAO... lets agree on Moist Towels then :) :beer:
 

Jim greengo

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I used to use a wet towel until a plumber showed me to use a dry one. Wet towels steam up and get hot. A dry towel, so long as you move quick and don't burn it, will stay cool to the touch.

I reserve wet towels for when I need to freeze solder quickly (not something that comes up much).

Exactly
 

The Cobbler

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you can't really tell what sort of capillary action you get without removing the joint.
looks like you had good heat, as long as you cleaned & fluxed your joints well, pretty sure you have good joints
 
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luvit

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lol.
I had to sweat 4 couplers where each pair connect to 2 filters. They were vertical connectors and we way easier.
I assumed the rag recommendations were a dry rag. But these ******* were too hot to handle and my dry rag attempts were futile..lol.
Lol at these good solder joints.. they are ugly though haha
 

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dogdog

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from the look of how those solder solidify on those joints , I think you waited too long to wipe. Do it immediately right after you shut off the torch... that is usually what I do.

I like moist towels, just a quick wipe and not holding it and shacking it like you are having fun with it.
 

rlitman

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Gotta be quick with the rag. Both get it while the solder is still molten, and move quickly. I'll wad it up and use a brushing action.

I'm not so happy with the bubbles in the second one from the left.
 

LS6 Tommy

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That's what all the pros do. It gets rid of the drip. But at this point I wouldn't heat it up again. It looks fine to me.

LOL. "Pros" don't wipe at all. They know how to sweat without dripping.

Seriously, though, HVAC guys never wipe, drips or not. Wiping's a "plumber" thing...:bounce:

Tommy
 
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