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Athol Vise Restoration

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Joe B.

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Jan 2, 2007
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2,752
That is crazy. I finished painting my Athol a couple of weeks ago about the same color. I was waiting until I got it all back together before I posted anything. I just don't want you thinking I copied you when I get around to posting it!

That one looks great!
 
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B

BanjoSavesTheDay

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Nov 10, 2009
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627
Location
Huntington, WV
That is crazy. I finished painting my Athol a couple of weeks ago about the same color. I was waiting until I got it all back together before I posted anything. I just don't want you thinking I copied you when I get around to posting it!

That one looks great!

Unfortunately, I have a patent on that particular red/black color scheme. If you happen to publish the pictures without written permission, I will be forced to confiscate your vise.
 

06wt

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Apr 12, 2009
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858
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chicago 434 UNION CARPENTER
how bout pale green
IMG_0643.jpg
 

Joe B.

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Jan 2, 2007
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Unfortunately, I have a patent on that particular red/black color scheme. If you happen to publish the pictures without written permission, I will be forced to confiscate your vise.

Mine is really more or a orange so I guess you are out of luck. Maybe next time.

06WRT, that looks a lot like the original color there were traces of it on mine. Classy.
 

Handiest1

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Nov 18, 2010
Messages
17
Colors...colors. I did the "John Deere" paint scheme early in this thread, and I didn't do the letters.... Hmmm now I think I should have. I'm negotiating right now on a 6xx-1/2 Athol right now. Originally they had it on Ebay for $100, and I want to offer 30-40, she will prob tell me to take a hike. But, I cannot wait to paint it. I'm thinking of using a tight stiff sponge roller to do the letters.... what do you guys think?
 

Catalyze

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Feb 7, 2011
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1,369
Location
New Mexico
I just use an art brush that I bought from a local pinstriper. He said "use this" and that's what I do.
Craig
 

jtmoran

New member
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
4
Re: Athol Vise 023 1/2A

Does anyone know where I can procure the spindle for the above vise?

Or does a spindle from another Athol vise function within the 023 1/2A?

Thank you
JT Moran
 

jeffhay

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Apr 6, 2009
Messages
80
Location
Sammamish, WA
How does one remove the spindle from the vise?

A 614 1/2 was recently given to me and it certainly needs restoration. I have the jaws separated, and was able to pound out the pin holding the nut in the static jaw. I just can't figure out how to get the screw out of the slider. Looks like there's a pin? What appears to be a spring and a couple washers are in there. I didn't want to just start trying to remove the pin without finding out if it is, in fact, removable.
 
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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Jeff: can you post a few pictures of your Athol showing the spring and pin? i'm guessing that some guys use a piece of pipe and notch it so the spring is pushed back and the pin can be removed.
 

Fretters

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South Yorkshire, England
Jeff: can you post a few pictures of your Athol showing the spring and pin? i'm guessing that some guys use a piece of pipe and notch it so the spring is pushed back and the pin can be removed.

If it's the same style as ours, that's the simplest method with the open end slides. A bit of copper plumbing pipe usually serves well, and it's easy to cut notches out of the end with a pair of snips, to slip over the pin, with it being copper. If it's a closed rear slide, using a bit of dowel or rod for a lever to apply pressure to the washer and spring is the other way, using the recess below the jaw in the slide as the fulcrum point.
 
Last edited:

exmaxima1

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Midwest
A bit of copper plumbing pipe usually serves well, and it's easy to cut notches out of the end with a pair of snips, to slip over the pin, with it being copper.

Cheap electrical conduit will also work, as well as PVC tubing. For the notch, I found it easiest to drill a hole thru the side of the conduit (1/4" is a good size) and then cut it straight across the hole. Or maybe a bit to one end of the hole. That leaves a pair of notches large enough to reinstall the cotter pin.
 

Fretters

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Cheap electrical conduit will also work, as well as PVC tubing. For the notch, I found it easiest to drill a hole thru the side of the conduit (1/4" is a good size) and then cut it straight across the hole. Or maybe a bit to one end of the hole. That leaves a pair of notches large enough to reinstall the cotter pin.

Just seen your photo of the one you've made in the other thread. Definitely looks a bit more refined than the one I tend to use. :) I went for the quick and dirty method when making mine. Snip a couple of slits to make an oblong cut, (done both sides), and then waggle the centre waste piece until it snaps off. :D Do need to make new ones up though as the others have disappeared, so might go with your method this time, just to make them look a bit classier. :D
 

jeffhay

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Apr 6, 2009
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80
Location
Sammamish, WA
Visescrew2.jpg


I got the notch pipe made from a piece of PVC. So far, WD-40 and several hits with the BFH have not moved the pin. How much resistance can I expect? The pin is kind of mushrooming.
 

Carla

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Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
I got the notch pipe made from a piece of PVC. So far, WD-40 and several hits with the BFH have not moved the pin. How much resistance can I expect? The pin is kind of mushrooming.

It could be possible that someone who worked on that vise in times past decided to ream the main screw for a taper pin, and fit a taper pin which had been trimmed to length.

See whether the pin will come free if driven from the other end.

If not, and its well and truly jammed in place in the screw, use a small cold chisel to cut the pin flush with the main screw, which will allow the screw to be removed from the front jaw.

Once the screw is out, file the pin nicely flush, and inspect for a slightly (very slightly) larger size on one end, and drive from the small end.

Another possibility is a soft steel straight pin, with a bit of straight knurling to 'bite' into the drilled hole, as a pseudo press fit.

Another 'fix it in a hurry' trick was to put in a soft steel pin, and deform the ends with a punch, usually just by bending the ends of the pin a bit 'sideways'. If you find this, there's nothing for it but to drill out the pin.

cheers

Carla
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Jeff: I agree 100% with Carla and in case you didn't know some of the smartest guys and gals on GJ PM or ask her questions to hear what she has to say. if you do end up drilling out or cutting up the old pin a new one is pretty easy to make and i think a big cotter pin might even work, but not 100% on that.

all these old vises are a bit different and especially since a lot of them were modified by guys and gals that didn't have communication across the world to help them figure things out. at least it isn't duct taped.

good luck

Carla: just an fyi a package will be heading your way next week (hopefully). thanks again
 

jeffhay

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Apr 6, 2009
Messages
80
Location
Sammamish, WA
Oh, yes, I'm aware of Carla. I've been knee deep in the vise threads since I got this vise and her name is quite recurrent. She's why I'm on my way to go get some anti-seize right now. I just hope the other GJers don't find out that I didn't already have anti-seize on my shelf. :)

And I did get the pin out. Either the WD40 soaked in while I was posting, or it just needed some extra persuasion. It's a little crumpled, but it should go back in.

Just wish it wasn't so cold, or I'd be spray painting and posting more pics this weekend.
 
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