Maxcustody
Well-known member
WOW, what a great looking unique house. Looking forward to seeing the progress and changes.
Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Bauhaus this house
- Thread starter Klokwerk
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
I just discovered this thread - very cool house, and I approve of the 2002. 
I have a 1986 M535i for a summer car and a 1988 325iX for winter.
I have a 1986 M535i for a summer car and a 1988 325iX for winter.old-air-performance
Well-known member
Whats not to like in this thread?
Beautiful house, dream cars, AND bbq!
Love it!
Beautiful house, dream cars, AND bbq!
Love it!
slik560
Well-known member
Nice save on the flooring.
hewey
Well-known member
Floor looks great! Unfortunately under our vinyl floor is an uneven concrete slab...
There's a saying in my family, 'if there's an easy way, or a hard way, Jerry will always take the hard way'. Even if that means the wrong way! LOL
So, here was the floor after peeling a bit of the vinyl up.
Then with all of it up before I removed the glue. Note the dark spots. Thick collection of glue and some water damage.
Glue remover down. I put it on thick and rubbed it into the glue. As I'd mentioned before, the glue wasn't evenly distributed. Some spots didn't have any at all, while others it was double thick! I ended up covering the entire floor with remover. Also ended up doing this part twice in the heavy glue areas.
Then came the sanding. I did not go with the floor sander and edger. For some reason, in my head, I thought the square footage was small enough that doing it by hand would be a quick and easy job. So I busted out my palm sander and shop vacc and went to town. Starting with 40 grit and working my way up to 60, then 80 and finally 120. In the end, it took about 8 hours of total sanding time. Did it in 2 or 3 hour shifts. This is what I got for my labor.
After a good vaccuming and a wipe down with acetone I rolled on the first coat of polyurethane. I had planned on doing 4 coats, but after sanding the first coat with 200 grit then putting on the second I called it good.
First coat.
Final product.
I think it turned out pretty well. I haven't done a hard wood floor before. It was good to get some seat time with the process. Lesson learned though. I will rent the floor sander next go around! And if Jo has a say so, that won't be for a long time. She didn't like me interupting our locked down living by tearing up the kitchen floor. Truth be told, it wasn't a very hard project. I love the result.
Thanks again.
So, here was the floor after peeling a bit of the vinyl up.
Then with all of it up before I removed the glue. Note the dark spots. Thick collection of glue and some water damage.
Glue remover down. I put it on thick and rubbed it into the glue. As I'd mentioned before, the glue wasn't evenly distributed. Some spots didn't have any at all, while others it was double thick! I ended up covering the entire floor with remover. Also ended up doing this part twice in the heavy glue areas.
Then came the sanding. I did not go with the floor sander and edger. For some reason, in my head, I thought the square footage was small enough that doing it by hand would be a quick and easy job. So I busted out my palm sander and shop vacc and went to town. Starting with 40 grit and working my way up to 60, then 80 and finally 120. In the end, it took about 8 hours of total sanding time. Did it in 2 or 3 hour shifts. This is what I got for my labor.
After a good vaccuming and a wipe down with acetone I rolled on the first coat of polyurethane. I had planned on doing 4 coats, but after sanding the first coat with 200 grit then putting on the second I called it good.
First coat.
Final product.
I think it turned out pretty well. I haven't done a hard wood floor before. It was good to get some seat time with the process. Lesson learned though. I will rent the floor sander next go around! And if Jo has a say so, that won't be for a long time. She didn't like me interupting our locked down living by tearing up the kitchen floor. Truth be told, it wasn't a very hard project. I love the result.
Thanks again.
Attachments
slik560
Well-known member
Pretty well? I think it turned out EXTREMELY well. Thanks for outlining all the steps and the issues that you've had. It'll help the rest of us when the time comes
Hi all, not much has been happening to the garage. I think I've put a mental pause on doing anything until the new doors arrive. So I got back to working on the fuel injection parts for the 2002. Also got to sorting out the wiring harness...what a pain in the ****.
When I'd had enough of the harness, I moved on to greesier and dirtier things. Talking about the pedal box and brake booster.
Gunk, corrosion and just plain old, these needed some TLC. Here they are after a quick cleaning. I dismantled them and then put them back together loosly. I do this while working on systems that aren't ready yet for restoration. I lose less parts this way.
If you're familiar with 2002's you'll notice this is for an automatic. For some reason I catch flak for not having a 'real' transmission in there. To each his own and in this case, since it's Jo's car, to her own. Jo prefers an automatic. So there we have it.
Brake booster is pretty typical. Nothing special there. I'll get a new one and referbish the mount. I have a bunch of parts, incuding the front and rear subframes, that need to get powder coated. These are being added to the pile.
The pedel box is a bit of a weird thing. As far as designs go, I think this was a bad one. There is a sound deadener pad that was glued to the under side of it. Under the car like it is, it acts like a sponge and lets water in and allows rust to build. This one appears to have been replaced at some point. It had a newer pad, in sad shape when I got to it, and something akin to plumbers putty acting as a gasket. I've seen these totally rusted out. This one, not so bad.
There's also a hole, that's built in. Not kidding. I'm not sure what it was for except to allow more water in and to accelerate the need for a new carpet and floor pan. Dunno. It'll get welded shut and powder coated over.
For both components, new springs, bushings and fasteners are being sourced. My powder coating bill is going to be big!
Thanks for coming along!
When I'd had enough of the harness, I moved on to greesier and dirtier things. Talking about the pedal box and brake booster.
Gunk, corrosion and just plain old, these needed some TLC. Here they are after a quick cleaning. I dismantled them and then put them back together loosly. I do this while working on systems that aren't ready yet for restoration. I lose less parts this way.
If you're familiar with 2002's you'll notice this is for an automatic. For some reason I catch flak for not having a 'real' transmission in there. To each his own and in this case, since it's Jo's car, to her own. Jo prefers an automatic. So there we have it.
Brake booster is pretty typical. Nothing special there. I'll get a new one and referbish the mount. I have a bunch of parts, incuding the front and rear subframes, that need to get powder coated. These are being added to the pile.
The pedel box is a bit of a weird thing. As far as designs go, I think this was a bad one. There is a sound deadener pad that was glued to the under side of it. Under the car like it is, it acts like a sponge and lets water in and allows rust to build. This one appears to have been replaced at some point. It had a newer pad, in sad shape when I got to it, and something akin to plumbers putty acting as a gasket. I've seen these totally rusted out. This one, not so bad.
There's also a hole, that's built in. Not kidding. I'm not sure what it was for except to allow more water in and to accelerate the need for a new carpet and floor pan. Dunno. It'll get welded shut and powder coated over.
For both components, new springs, bushings and fasteners are being sourced. My powder coating bill is going to be big!
Thanks for coming along!
old-air-performance
Well-known member
What work are you doing on the fuel injection parts?
At my day job i'm a dieselspecialist (bosch, denso, delphi authorised) i rebuild and test everything from old in-line pumps to the latest common rail injection, we also test & clean fuel injectors, and occasionally a K-jetronic and bosch mechanical fuel injection pump like porsche and mercedes, but never had a kugelfisher in the shop, so i'm i intrigued!
My best advice on the mfi pump would be, don't take anything apart or change the adjustment, unless you're 100% sure of what you are doing and you have the spare parts/gaskets or things could get expensive.
Kind regards,
Toon
At my day job i'm a dieselspecialist (bosch, denso, delphi authorised) i rebuild and test everything from old in-line pumps to the latest common rail injection, we also test & clean fuel injectors, and occasionally a K-jetronic and bosch mechanical fuel injection pump like porsche and mercedes, but never had a kugelfisher in the shop, so i'm i intrigued!
My best advice on the mfi pump would be, don't take anything apart or change the adjustment, unless you're 100% sure of what you are doing and you have the spare parts/gaskets or things could get expensive.
Kind regards,
Toon
OJKD
Active member
I am enjoying this, and prefer to keep quiet, but you really need to know about bmw2002faq.com.
The Kügelfischer is a pain in th ...
A real, matching-numbers tii is getting there in terms of value, and dropping too far into the aftermarket might be a gamble in regards to resale. However. A standalone EFI using the intake and throttlebody from the early 318i E30 will increase driveability.
The pedalbox is weird, and not the best design, but it's a simple enough design, and with new nylon bushings it work very nicely, if not Porsche-racecar nice. A lot of the parts is available from a BMW dealer, and the prices are actually not too bad. But really, you need to hang out at the bmw2002faq for a while.
The Kügelfischer is a pain in th ...
A real, matching-numbers tii is getting there in terms of value, and dropping too far into the aftermarket might be a gamble in regards to resale. However. A standalone EFI using the intake and throttlebody from the early 318i E30 will increase driveability.
The pedalbox is weird, and not the best design, but it's a simple enough design, and with new nylon bushings it work very nicely, if not Porsche-racecar nice. A lot of the parts is available from a BMW dealer, and the prices are actually not too bad. But really, you need to hang out at the bmw2002faq for a while.
@old-air-performance yep, this is my first time converting to fuel injection. I'd had a couple different carburetors on the motor before it needed a rebuild. I'd read a ton on the conversion and I hope I've chosen the right path.
Using some of these parts from an e28 or e30...I think e30.
Intake manifold - 11611709585
Fuel rail With injectors - 13531707731
Fuel pressure regulator - 13531711541
ECU will is Megasquirt v3
I honestly don't have a ton of experience with MS but I've played with it a bit. A base map I've got should be me started (when ever I get to that point!) and I'm hoping to get it tuned at a shop near by.
The fuel injectors I have will need to be serviced.
Which leads me to @OJKD. Yup, I know about bmw2002faq.com. Been a member there since 2016. That's where I blog about Betty and where I learned about the conversion to EFI. I've also bought and sold a fare bit of parts on the site. Tons of great information there for sure!
And totally agree, the The Kügelfischer is a pain, and trying to convert the TII setup or something directly over from vintage BMW is not in the cards for me. Also, with my experience with CIS and the like from VW EFI, is a good reason why I'm going the route I am. I realize it's a whole other bucket of problems but it's the life for me! lol.
Now, I need to find the box where the IE trigger wheel and sensor are so I can test fit it to the motor....
Using some of these parts from an e28 or e30...I think e30.
Intake manifold - 11611709585
Fuel rail With injectors - 13531707731
Fuel pressure regulator - 13531711541
ECU will is Megasquirt v3
I honestly don't have a ton of experience with MS but I've played with it a bit. A base map I've got should be me started (when ever I get to that point!) and I'm hoping to get it tuned at a shop near by.
The fuel injectors I have will need to be serviced.
Which leads me to @OJKD. Yup, I know about bmw2002faq.com.
Been a member there since 2016. That's where I blog about Betty and where I learned about the conversion to EFI. I've also bought and sold a fare bit of parts on the site. Tons of great information there for sure!And totally agree, the The Kügelfischer is a pain, and trying to convert the TII setup or something directly over from vintage BMW is not in the cards for me. Also, with my experience with CIS and the like from VW EFI, is a good reason why I'm going the route I am. I realize it's a whole other bucket of problems but it's the life for me! lol.
Now, I need to find the box where the IE trigger wheel and sensor are so I can test fit it to the motor....
Man I'm glad you posted on my thread. Just got done reading through yours, and I really dig your taste in houses and cars! And I'm jealous that your wife likes to do resto work... mine, alas, does not She is also an automatic-only type of girl though Funny how many Vortex ex-pats are active on this site.
For the HVAC, I highly recommend doing a mini-split. You'll have a conditioned work space without the risk of creating a vacuum in the rest of the house (with no returns), or introducing CO2 into your living space (if you fit them). My spot is slightly larger, and the DIY MrCool (which, it appears, you are FULLY up to the task of installing) was only $1400 or so, plus electronics and trim. It's worked a treat. The only downside is that you have fixed-length, pre-charged lines.
Looking forward to more content
She is also an automatic-only type of girl though Funny how many Vortex ex-pats are active on this site.For the HVAC, I highly recommend doing a mini-split. You'll have a conditioned work space without the risk of creating a vacuum in the rest of the house (with no returns), or introducing CO2 into your living space (if you fit them). My spot is slightly larger, and the DIY MrCool (which, it appears, you are FULLY up to the task of installing) was only $1400 or so, plus electronics and trim. It's worked a treat. The only downside is that you have fixed-length, pre-charged lines.
Looking forward to more content
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Wow it's been a long time since I've been on there, almost forgot about it lol. This was way back in the day.....
I bounced from Vortex to AcuraZine to S2ki to the PowerStoke forum to FTE for my F100 and now currently on Cummins Forum.
Denwood
Well-known member
Nice job on the hardwood . That Siamese you snuck in there apparently approves too.
Not sure what it is about the 02 but I can’t get enough of them. Auto or not, it’s still a super cool ride.
i spied a Bolt in your first post. Still driving it? We picked up an EV last year and are loving it.
. That Siamese you snuck in there apparently approves too.Not sure what it is about the 02 but I can’t get enough of them. Auto or not, it’s still a super cool ride.
i spied a Bolt in your first post. Still driving it? We picked up an EV last year and are loving it.
wreckdiver1321
Well-known member
Vey cool to see the updates @Klokwerk! That floor came up a treat. Lucky for you, you had hardwood under that horrible laminate. Our kitchen doesn't, so we get to do tile in there. However, my office and one of the bedrooms has wood underneath, so with any luck we'll be able to have a nicely refinished floor once we decide to make that happen.
Awesome to see you using your 911 like that. Those are my favorite classic car people - the ones who actually drive them. A $75k plus restored beauty is nice to look at, but give me something 2/3s the price in "good" condition and let me actually drive it!
Can't wait to see more.
Awesome to see you using your 911 like that. Those are my favorite classic car people - the ones who actually drive them. A $75k plus restored beauty is nice to look at, but give me something 2/3s the price in "good" condition and let me actually drive it!
Can't wait to see more.
Thanks Denwood! Yup, the cat approves. It's his new hangout now. As for the Bolt, it's a 2022 model. And just went in Friday to have the latest software patch loaded. Now I can get back to charging 100% instead of keeping it on hilltop reserve. It's a great car. Totally under rated. Reminds me of my old VW GTI. It's a hatchback, front wheel drive and is a hoot to drive. What's not to like!
Lucky on the floors upstairs wreckdriver1321! It's always nice when you get a nice surprise like that.
As for my 911, it's definitely a 15 footer. Looks amazing from 15 foot, but once you get up close you'll notice all of the chips and scratches. I also have a little ding on the passenger rear quarter panel. That's getting fixed next week. That's all the price of being a all weather, year round daily driver. I love it though and wouldn't have it any other way!
I always joke that if I had the means, I'd go to some fancy auto auction, buy the most expensive thing there was, then take it outside immediatly after and do donuts until the tires fell off.
Poor collector cars. They're meant to be driven.
As for the garage, I've been busy. I think I've got at least 3 or 4 projects going on at any given time. These last couple weeks I've been working on the 2002. The garage is a mess because of the remodel that's on hold and I have the other couple projects in there that I'll get to shortly.
First, Betty. In the middle of the mess.
I've torn down the brake peddel box and the vaccum booster/master cylinder. That's getting powder coated once I have it all rebuilt.
The dash also needs to be rebuilt. A completely restored dash runs about $4k. That's just for new vinyl! So I'm trying to figure out how to do it myself. Maybe flock it? Wrap it in leather? If you squint hard, you'll see the wire harness on the floor to the left. I have a Painless wire harness that I'd planned to use in it's place, but converting over the connectors/plugs etc, is looking like more trouble than it's worth.
This weekend I've been working on the doors. The doors are hung and the gaps look pretty good, but the hardware is a disaster.
I'd replaced the window regulators on both sides a few years ago so those will clean up easily. It's the door brake, striker, lock mechanism and related hardware that's going to give me fits for weeks. Not to mention the handles and mirror are in rough shape.
To start with, the door brakes are both broken. new OEM units are a fortune (if you can find them) or not available at all. The good news is there's a member on 2002FAQ who makes new and improved versions! Name is Harry. Price is fair and I hope they are good as promised!
The rest of the hardware will get cleaned up in the parts washer (another project) and will get replated.
I'm also hemming and hawing about the VIN tag. It's just riveted on but when I took it off for paint, what was under it was not so pretty. I'm researching how best to proceed there. For now, it's just sitting there. First time it's been back on the car in about 3 years!
Attachments
Denwood
Well-known member
I recall dealing with very similar issues on my 84 Scirocco with respect to door hardware...but OEM stuff was still available for much of it.
I didn't drive the Bolt in my EV search, however the 6 second range on 0-60 caught my eye The 2018 LEAF we ended up with (purchased for less than 50% new, compliments of my daughter's driving school) is still plenty quick, but the SL version is pretty much loaded up inside and drives itself on the highway. We use it for about 90% of the family driving. I'm 100% a fan of the mechanical simplicity.
I didn't drive the Bolt in my EV search, however the 6 second range on 0-60 caught my eye
The 2018 LEAF we ended up with (purchased for less than 50% new, compliments of my daughter's driving school) is still plenty quick, but the SL version is pretty much loaded up inside and drives itself on the highway. We use it for about 90% of the family driving. I'm 100% a fan of the mechanical simplicity.jbrentd
Well-known member
I wonder if it would help to put a thin layer of grease between the VIN tag and the body before you rivet it back on?
grant00
Well-known member
I was thinking that too but maybe something that will set up like RTV or a gasket maker but can also be removed. Grease would run out due to heat and gravity and make a mess.
jbrentd
Well-known member
True. I think either of those would work well.
Denwood
Well-known member
I’ve been using both Noxudol 700 and 300 for anticorrosion duties. They are cavity waxes, one for exposed areas (300 is black for exposed chassis, 700 is amber for cavities) Both have anticorrosion additives and stay soft. On a show car you would not use these, on a driver 100% yes.
I’ve been testing different products for 25 years or so, and in our nasty (sand/salt) winters have found the Noxudol 300/700 outstanding for the older (and newer) vehicles so it’s all I use now. I can post more links etc if you want to research on long term tests etc. Toyota, Isuzu (and a few more manufact) spec’d Noxudol for their frame recalls and/or chassis premature rust issues.
if that was my 2002, I’d be using the 700 and 300 everywhere..and I’m assuming yours will be a driver
I’ve been testing different products for 25 years or so, and in our nasty (sand/salt) winters have found the Noxudol 300/700 outstanding for the older (and newer) vehicles so it’s all I use now. I can post more links etc if you want to research on long term tests etc. Toyota, Isuzu (and a few more manufact) spec’d Noxudol for their frame recalls and/or chassis premature rust issues.
if that was my 2002, I’d be using the 700 and 300 everywhere..and I’m assuming yours will be a driver
fish369
Member
Saw in another post someone mentioned DC 111 would ward of moisture and rust. Looks like good stuff.
I'd never heard of these products before! Thanks!
According to the Noxudol web site, to apply use a high- or low pressure spraying according to the ML method for hollow spaces. Or it can be sprayed, brushed or dipped. Seems like I need to read up on this more before I put the interior together.
How do you apply it @Denwood?
The DC (Dow Corning right?) Molykote 111 doesn't seem like a good fit. Looks more like a lubricant than a rust inhibitor. At least by it's description. Cool stuff non the less.
Thanks again!
According to the Noxudol web site, to apply use a high- or low pressure spraying according to the ML method for hollow spaces. Or it can be sprayed, brushed or dipped. Seems like I need to read up on this more before I put the interior together.
How do you apply it @Denwood?
The DC (Dow Corning right?) Molykote 111 doesn't seem like a good fit. Looks more like a lubricant than a rust inhibitor. At least by it's description. Cool stuff non the less.
Thanks again!
Denwood
Well-known member
Sorry for this long post, but I figure you'll find it useful as you have older cars and care about them I know corrosion is not as bad there, but here you go:
I have a few cavity guns/wands/nozzles for doing corrosion work. This is my "nice" gun. To do a good job I typically hoist the vehicle and remove fender liners, underbody trays etc. to do it properly. This covers my 2018 LEAF corrosion control process from start to finish: https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=32082
I have posted a lot on Noxudol because it's the first product I've found (and I've personally tested Krown, Rust Check, Mike Sander's Grease, Waxoyl, Fluid Film, etc) that actually has active rust neutralising chemicals integrated, stays waxy, and does not wash off after driving in the rain! The only downside is that the 300 chassis wax (black, heavier) takes about 3-5 days to properly set (it never completely dries, but stays flexible) so in an ideal world, you'd park for a week after application. The 700 has a very high creep rate, so is less viscous..but it does again set up after 3-5 days. I like the water base stuff as there are limited fumes/smell to deal with.
Here is a cut/paste on Noxudol from a post I did at the Samba:
We've seen mention in this thread several times of Noxudol 700. This cavity wax "won" the Classic Monthly 3 year test, and is mentioned in safety recalls issued by both Toyota (frame rust recall) and Isuzu (rear suspension sub-frame recall) to treat structural failure issues due to rust. Dylan (insyncro) here uses it.
A bit of research on the product yields this: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2011120646A1?cl=en
A bit more research:
Sulphonic acids - rust cleaner
overbased calcium salts - oil additive to prevent rust
pentaerythritol - referenced in several corrosion inhibition papers.
polymers with isophthalic acid - referenced in corrosion resistance material
tall oils - used as a base for corrosion inhibitor products
It would appear that along with solvated paraffin wax, there are actually a few active ingredients that react with rust. One wonders what magic mix (if any) is present on the other products.
I know corrosion is not as bad there, but here you go:I have a few cavity guns/wands/nozzles for doing corrosion work. This is my "nice" gun. To do a good job I typically hoist the vehicle and remove fender liners, underbody trays etc. to do it properly. This covers my 2018 LEAF corrosion control process from start to finish: https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=32082
I have posted a lot on Noxudol because it's the first product I've found (and I've personally tested Krown, Rust Check, Mike Sander's Grease, Waxoyl, Fluid Film, etc) that actually has active rust neutralising chemicals integrated, stays waxy, and does not wash off after driving in the rain! The only downside is that the 300 chassis wax (black, heavier) takes about 3-5 days to properly set (it never completely dries, but stays flexible) so in an ideal world, you'd park for a week after application. The 700 has a very high creep rate, so is less viscous..but it does again set up after 3-5 days. I like the water base stuff as there are limited fumes/smell to deal with.
Here is a cut/paste on Noxudol from a post I did at the Samba:
We've seen mention in this thread several times of Noxudol 700. This cavity wax "won" the Classic Monthly 3 year test, and is mentioned in safety recalls issued by both Toyota (frame rust recall) and Isuzu (rear suspension sub-frame recall) to treat structural failure issues due to rust. Dylan (insyncro) here uses it.
A bit of research on the product yields this: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2011120646A1?cl=en
| Quote: |
| According to one embodiment, a composition containing sulfonic acids, petroleum, overbased calcium salts in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight; fatty acids, tall-oil, polymers with isophthalic acid, pentaerythritol and tall-oil in an amount of 10 to 20% by weight; paraffin waxes and hydrocarbon waxes in an amount of less than 10%; base oil, distillates (petroleum), solvent- refined heavy paraffinic materials in an amount of 40 to 60% by weight, each percentage being based on the total weight of the wax component, may be used. This material is available as the commercial product Noxudol 700 from Auson AB, Kungsbacka, Sweden. This material is of waxy appearance and includes a liquid paraffin component. |
A bit more research:
Sulphonic acids - rust cleaner
overbased calcium salts - oil additive to prevent rust
pentaerythritol - referenced in several corrosion inhibition papers.
polymers with isophthalic acid - referenced in corrosion resistance material
tall oils - used as a base for corrosion inhibitor products
It would appear that along with solvated paraffin wax, there are actually a few active ingredients that react with rust. One wonders what magic mix (if any) is present on the other products.
EngineerNate
Well-known member
Covering that hardwood was a crime!
If you find the Varathane doesn't hold up (not sure if you bought stuff specifically for hardwood floors or not), I've been extremely pleased with the Poloplaz Primero Satin we had put down on our hardwood floors. So pleased that it's become my go-to finish for anything high wear. I'm currently putting it on my desktop.
It's full of VOCs so might not be available in your area, but Poloplaz probably has a product that complies.
If you find the Varathane doesn't hold up (not sure if you bought stuff specifically for hardwood floors or not), I've been extremely pleased with the Poloplaz Primero Satin we had put down on our hardwood floors. So pleased that it's become my go-to finish for anything high wear. I'm currently putting it on my desktop.
It's full of VOCs so might not be available in your area, but Poloplaz probably has a product that complies.
@Denwood Thanks for the link to your thread on using the product. Very informative. I was shocked at the amount of corrosion present on a 2018 vehicle!
Looks like you coated everything under the car with it.
@EngineerNate thanks for the suggestion! Now that I've redone the kitchen I'm wondering why I didn't do the whole floor! Live and learn. So I'll keep this in mind next time.
Looks like you coated everything under the car with it.
@EngineerNate thanks for the suggestion! Now that I've redone the kitchen I'm wondering why I didn't do the whole floor! Live and learn. So I'll keep this in mind next time.
As it turns out, when working on our cars, especially when restoring a car, it makes sense to have a parts washer.
I'd bought one from Harbor Freight several years ago. I'd used it then while building a VW aba swapped 16v turbo motor for a junk yard Mk2 golf. Both the aba 16v turbo and the car have long gone, but the HF parts washer stayed with me. I moved into this house and brought it along but tucked it into a storage shed and forgot about it for a couple years, until last week.
I had the pedal assembly apart, front and rear subframes torn down and the fuel injection parts I'd bought a couple years ago that were all nasty with grease and gunk. I started to clean them out in a tub. I was up to my elbows in grease when I remembered the parts washer.
Here's my attempt at doing what many of you have done. Nothing special, but now I'm a happy guy who's not bent over cleaning parts in a bucket!
I'd decided to go with the dual bucket setup without the oil filter. Also decided to use a water based solvent, Simple Green Pro HD.
The build was pretty straight forward. The only complications were finding the right adaptor for the HF drain and sourcing a new pump.
Diagram = plan.
As I mentioned, the hardest part for me to find was the right size adaptor to fit the HF drain. Turns out, a 3/8" flare coupling has a straight thread and isn't tapered like the FIP or MIP adaptors were. Go figure.
Finished project....more or less.
I had a little accident with the liquids. Turns out, two 5 gallon buckets doesn't hold 6 gallons of fluid. Nope.
I'll add a lid to the bucket to keep junk out and I'll also like to add a couple valves to the outlet hoses going to the squirter and flow through brush. That way I can have one or the other or both on.
Now, on to cleaning a metric ton of greasy parts.
I'd bought one from Harbor Freight several years ago. I'd used it then while building a VW aba swapped 16v turbo motor for a junk yard Mk2 golf. Both the aba 16v turbo and the car have long gone, but the HF parts washer stayed with me. I moved into this house and brought it along but tucked it into a storage shed and forgot about it for a couple years, until last week.
I had the pedal assembly apart, front and rear subframes torn down and the fuel injection parts I'd bought a couple years ago that were all nasty with grease and gunk. I started to clean them out in a tub. I was up to my elbows in grease when I remembered the parts washer.
Here's my attempt at doing what many of you have done. Nothing special, but now I'm a happy guy who's not bent over cleaning parts in a bucket!
I'd decided to go with the dual bucket setup without the oil filter. Also decided to use a water based solvent, Simple Green Pro HD.
The build was pretty straight forward. The only complications were finding the right adaptor for the HF drain and sourcing a new pump.
Diagram = plan.
As I mentioned, the hardest part for me to find was the right size adaptor to fit the HF drain. Turns out, a 3/8" flare coupling has a straight thread and isn't tapered like the FIP or MIP adaptors were. Go figure.
Finished project....more or less.
I had a little accident with the liquids. Turns out, two 5 gallon buckets doesn't hold 6 gallons of fluid. Nope.
I'll add a lid to the bucket to keep junk out and I'll also like to add a couple valves to the outlet hoses going to the squirter and flow through brush. That way I can have one or the other or both on.
Now, on to cleaning a metric ton of greasy parts.
Attachments
Hi there again, it's been a while since I last posted....
Spring has sprung and here in the Eastern part of the PNW it feels like we're all lining up, crouching into our starting blocks and waiting for the starting pistol to fire. Actually it fired a few days ago with the official first day of spring. But in Spokane spring really doesn't get going until mid April. That's because there's still a chance of snow until May. A few years back we had to restart our garden twice due to late snows. So, sping has kinda started!
And that's our current status right now, just waiting a little longer to get going. There's more deck work, restaining the cedar, rock wall rebuilding, planting etc etc! Can't wait.
For now, I'm still tinkering in the garage. And since the 2002 restoration is still chugging along, here's what I've got:
The parts washer was a smash! I think I was cleaning things that really didn't need cleaning just because I could. It's made working in the garage nicer! Being able to see the parts that you're working with is essential. A car that's neglected for so many years, the amount of gunk that builds up is astonishing!
So, all of the foot pedel bits, brake components, trailing arms, manifolds, etc are all sparkling clean.
Much of it needs to be boxed up and sent to the powder coater or plater. Anything thing that just needs paint will be done by yours truely.
One thing I'm extreamly happy with is the wiring harness. I think I'd mentioned that I was dreading working on it....got over that hump. Still, it's a pain but a good one.
Here it's loosly fitted to make sure it's in the right place. I'd already tested it for continuity and inspected the connectors.
Kind of a hot mess.
I'll likely be working on the harness for several more days if not weeks. It's very slow and tedious work. Hard on the fingers and knees. But it'll be well worth it in the end.
Here's a shot of the right headlight and turn signal wires. Nice and tidy!
Wire harness for the cold side of the engine bay. This is half of the harness and is for the front lights, light relays, horn, horn relay, battery terminals, main ground and motor sensors including the water temp. The starter and alternator wiring is here too.
That's that, thanks for reading.
Spring has sprung and here in the Eastern part of the PNW it feels like we're all lining up, crouching into our starting blocks and waiting for the starting pistol to fire. Actually it fired a few days ago with the official first day of spring. But in Spokane spring really doesn't get going until mid April. That's because there's still a chance of snow until May. A few years back we had to restart our garden twice due to late snows. So, sping has kinda started!
And that's our current status right now, just waiting a little longer to get going. There's more deck work, restaining the cedar, rock wall rebuilding, planting etc etc! Can't wait.
For now, I'm still tinkering in the garage. And since the 2002 restoration is still chugging along, here's what I've got:
The parts washer was a smash! I think I was cleaning things that really didn't need cleaning just because I could. It's made working in the garage nicer! Being able to see the parts that you're working with is essential. A car that's neglected for so many years, the amount of gunk that builds up is astonishing!
So, all of the foot pedel bits, brake components, trailing arms, manifolds, etc are all sparkling clean.
Much of it needs to be boxed up and sent to the powder coater or plater. Anything thing that just needs paint will be done by yours truely.
One thing I'm extreamly happy with is the wiring harness. I think I'd mentioned that I was dreading working on it....got over that hump. Still, it's a pain but a good one.
Here it's loosly fitted to make sure it's in the right place. I'd already tested it for continuity and inspected the connectors.
Kind of a hot mess.
I'll likely be working on the harness for several more days if not weeks. It's very slow and tedious work. Hard on the fingers and knees. But it'll be well worth it in the end.
Here's a shot of the right headlight and turn signal wires. Nice and tidy!
Wire harness for the cold side of the engine bay. This is half of the harness and is for the front lights, light relays, horn, horn relay, battery terminals, main ground and motor sensors including the water temp. The starter and alternator wiring is here too.
That's that, thanks for reading.
Attachments
jbrentd
Well-known member
I'd like to add a parts washer to my shop...could have used one many times over the years. And thanks for taking us along on your 2002 project. Nice job on the wiring. I wish mine was less complicated (can't even see the fuse panel behind all of the relays)...
Harness is cleaning up nicely....as a car guy who has obsesssed over clean engine bays for many years, I'd like to offer a little suggestion....
Scrap that regular electrical tape and order some Tesa Tape, this stuff is great, looks cleaner and won't get all "gooey" once the bay sees heat:
Scrap that regular electrical tape and order some Tesa Tape, this stuff is great, looks cleaner and won't get all "gooey" once the bay sees heat:
jbrentd
Well-known member
Yes, I agree with the above suggestion...love that stuff.
Tesa tape on order! I'm not using electric tape anywhere except at the very ends of runs to hold the ends closed. Temporary.
I think what you're seeing in the pic that looks like electric tape is actually self vulcanizing rubber tape. Using that at where wires split off from the main 'lines'
The Tesa tape does look great and easy to use!
I think what you're seeing in the pic that looks like electric tape is actually self vulcanizing rubber tape. Using that at where wires split off from the main 'lines'
The Tesa tape does look great and easy to use!
Jrad235
Well-known member
You're a brave man to wrap up the harness before the engine is in and running! With my luck I'd have to take it apart at least twice more to fix SOMETHING that got missed or better yet, failed AFTER I put it back together...
Great to see progress!
Great to see progress!
After getting most of it in I had that same thought! But I did my best to test the harness to make sure that the wires themselves were okay and that I've got good connections from end to end of each circuit.
Where I couldn't or didn't know how to test is where the circuit goes through a relay. Best I could come up with is testing the wires up to the relay then back out to where it would end up.
If there's a fault, then it would be in the relay....which, I hope, is easier to fix than pulling out the harness again!
Cris B
Well-known member
Amazing property and location. Interesting cars too. Will be following for future updates.