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BEFORE & AFTER....A Tool Polisher's Haven

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JMLangford

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Jun 25, 2014
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Location
Upstate SC
Hello Tool Polishers....

Roughly a month ago I bought a used Snap-on 3/4" drive set from GJ member tarmy for a really nice price.......The tools were his father's and he wanted someone who would use, care and appreciate them.
I was very excited to get them and to try and bring them back close to their original luster......tarmy's father made his living as a mechanic as long as he could remember, and these tools showed the many years of use....
So, once I got them, I set about cleaning & polishing them in hopes that tarmy and his dad would be pleased.....

To start off here are two pics of how they looked when I got them....
TQDS1.jpg TQDS2.jpg

The first 8 sockets are all Snap-on and the last one (1 7/16") is a Truecraft (Japan).......all the Snap-on sockets are date code 1956 except one which is date code 1944 (E) wartime......can you tell which one??? :)

That's right ....the darkest, dirtiest one (5th from the left)
TQDS3.jpg

So, I started with this one.......yes, I know that a wartime socket may be cadmium coated so, I wore a dust mask and in a well ventilated area and a low speed on the dremel tool to keep dust at a minimum......
TQDS4.jpg TQDS5.jpg TQDS6.jpg

Before & After:
TQDS7.jpg


.
 
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JMLangford

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Without showing EVERY socket being cleaned, I'll just post a few Before & Afters.....
TQDS8.jpg TQDS9.jpg TQDS10.jpg

Interesting info on the wartime 1944 socket is that it is stamped with "LIC REISSUE PAT 19287"
Snap-on just licenced the locking pin portion of a Blackhawk patent #1896645

From Alloy Artifacts: " Patent #1,896,645, the key patent for the Lock-On concept, was filed in 1929 but not issued until 1933. It describes a spring-loaded locking pin installed in the drive tools, together with a release button fitted in the sockets. Due to some technical problem, this patent was reissued in 1934 as patent #RE19,287, and this later patent number will be seen marked on many tools."
TQDS11.jpg

Here you can see the "E" date code and the 1956 date code...
TQDS12.jpg

Also the different Snap-on logo script....
TQDS13.jpg

This next picture shows the different broaching of the two sockets.....
The 1944 socket (on right) shows the socket construction with a machined recess below the broached area.....and the 1956 socket (on left) shows a hot-broaching method that created a distinctive ring of displaced metal....
Snap-on made the change to hot broaching in 1947.....(sourse: Alloy Artifacts)
TQDS14.jpg



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OP
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JMLangford

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All these next pieces are all 1956 date code.....

"Nut Spinner"....Before & After....
TQDS15.jpg

8" Extension....Before & After....
TQDS16.jpg

Sliding Head.....Before & After....
TQDS17.jpg

Sliding Bar Handle....Before & After....
TQDS18.jpg TQDS19.jpg TQDS20.jpg

Ain't it purdy?........:D
TQDS21.jpg



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JMLangford

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Now, on to the L-72 R Ratchet Head......Date code 1963

This piece looked the roughest (inside was in fantastic condition) with a lot of pitting.....I wasn't looking to try and fully restore it, just clean, lube, and get it looking respectable.......;)

Front & Back....Sides....Top & Bottom....
TQDS22.jpg TQDS23.jpg TQDS24.jpg

Front & Back....Sides....Top & Bottom....After a few rounds with a wire wheel...
TQDS25.jpg TQDS26.jpg TQDS27.jpg

It's time to go inside.....
TQDS28.jpg


.
 
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OP
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JMLangford

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Everything is cleaned and ready for a few pieces to be blued.....
TQDS29.jpg

Starting with the cover....
TQDS30.jpg

Here's the drive gear.....
TQDS31.jpg

After bluing we're ready for re-assembly with the good ole Super Lube.....
TQDS32.jpg

And now the Before & After.....
TQDS33.jpg

And finally the comparison of the first pics .....Before & After.....
TQDS34.jpg TQDS35.jpg

I want to say a big THANK YOU to tarmy for making it possible to own this set of tools......He made it a pleasurable transaction and worked with me to get these tools from one coast to the other....:thumbup:

I hope he and his father are happy with how they turned out.....:rocker:



.
 
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JMLangford

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POSTSCRIPT:

You're probably saying "Sumbitch, doesn't this dude ever stop posting pics?" :lol_hitti

Just a few more.....

While waiting on the 3/4" set to come in and also during the cleaning and polishing stages I purchased a few other 3/4" tools to add to this set....

First off, I picked-up a Snap-on 1/2"F to 3/4"M and a Snap-on 3/4"F to 1/2"M adapters (from GJ member Rickster) to make the set more versatile....
TQDS36.jpg

Here's a shot of all the pieces (including the adapters) in my KRA-58E box....
TQDS37.jpg

Also in the meantime I bought 4 Williams 3/4" sockets to add to the set (from GJ member wantacoe)
Pics from his ad.....
TQDS38.jpg

Of course when I got them....they got the SPA treatment....
TQDS39.jpg

Now, here's the shot with everybody together.....
TQDS40.jpg



And , last but not least....I'm posting these two pics of cute puppies to use up my 7 pics allotment......:D
Cute Pup1.jpg Cute Pup2.jpg



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Bears Fan

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GMQxjZc.jpg


Nice lift :thumbup: :thumbup:
 

akasrick

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south jersey
Some of this just came in the mail.
Found just enough paint on a polished part of the tool too justify stripping it.
I'm getting way to old to start accumulating paint cans.

akasrick

*EDIT*

Goal was not to get a bright red color and not to fill in the shield.
Was hoping for something similar to the bronze vise which is wax.
Not a great result but it could be ready for the feather duster.

akasrick
 

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tarmy

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Everything is cleaned and ready for a few pieces to be blued.....
TQDS29.jpg

Starting with the cover....
TQDS30.jpg

Here's the drive gear.....
TQDS31.jpg

After bluing we're ready for re-assembly with the good ole Super Lube.....
TQDS32.jpg

And now the Before & After.....
TQDS33.jpg

And finally the comparison of the first pics .....Before & After.....
TQDS34.jpg TQDS35.jpg

I want to say a big THANK YOU to tarmy for making it possible to own this set of tools......He made it a pleasurable transaction and worked with me to get these tools from one coast to the other....:thumbup:

I hope he and his father are happy with how they turned out.....:rocker:



.

Well, as the guy you are refering to...who sold you the tools...simple comment...

Nice, well done...I actually am tearing up as I write this...thinking of my dad....

Thanks for taking care of these tools for him....I think they are in good hands...

Superb job on the postings, info and history as well.

Thank you, sir.
 
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rickhigginshtbr

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Lower Bucks, PA
Don’t know where the before pic went, but took a stab at giving the table on my Craftsman 150 Drill Press resto a mirror finish. Got close! Should of hit it harder on the lower grits before moving up.

IMG_1600.jpg

Still has some pitting in it, but a lot better than the rusty mess it was.


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drivesitfar

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JM: I don't think any of us can post too many pictures showing our stuff and especially when we turn it from a turd into a gem. speaking of that can you also mention the tools and supplies you use to turn them into gems and showpieces?

ALL: great thread and keep up the great work!!
 

gicts

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Jul 7, 2014
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Louisville
Have any of you all used a tumbler to polish tools? I've got a rock tumbler sitting dormant over here ...
 
OP
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JMLangford

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Upstate SC
Have any of you all used a tumbler to polish tools? I've got a rock tumbler sitting dormant over here ...

I've never tried a rock tumbler....sounds interesting.....maybe IF I had a tumbler sitting dormant....I'd might experiment with maybe a small wrench or two, and post my findings........;)



Let us know......:beer:



.
 

bimmer1980

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Location
York, PA
Speaking of polishing... I have a box of old Ping putters that I've accumulated over the years for a few bucks each. I've been restoring them for myself and as gifts for friends. I start with an old putter and sand the bag chatter off them by hand, then they go in the bead blaster. After 20 seconds in the blaster, I sand the face up to 3000 grit and fill-and-wipe paint the logos with Testors enamel. Then they get a $7 60s reproduction Ping grips I buy on eBay.


Oh, and my early 80s Clark forklift. "I distinctly ordered the Antarctic Blue Super Sports Wagon with the C.B. and optional rally fun pack."

GMQxjZc.jpg


7R5gMON.jpg


Beautiful job on the forklift! How much did you have to take apart to do all the cleanup and painting? Mine could use a new paint job, but first it needs some seals installed in the main mast.... and them maybe a new master cylinder....

Can you post a few more pics of the process on the forklift?
 

milwaukeephil

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May 7, 2014
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New Berlin
Unfortunately I didn't take any pics during the process. It was a simple process though... just a cursory surface prep with sandpaper and wire wheel and then masking and spraying. The only dilemma was deciding between original Clark lime or Family Truckster green. I had a friend do the vinyl Chevy Chase (hours of weeding that one!) and used shelf paper and yellow trim tape for the paneling. The suitcase came from Goodwill. I also found a guy online to make me a Wally World bumper sticker that is now on the back.
 

freudianfloyd

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This all makes me very jealous...

At the last house we lived in, I had a small garage but it was insulated, heated, and organized to a tee. I spent many days and nights polishing tools and turning them into show pieces.

Since then, we have moved into a much larger house, and it came with a nice 40x80 barn. Unfortunately, the barn is not heated or insulated, and only has gravel for a floor. All the tools I spent so much time making look good, are all now getting rusty again. I have not had the time or money to finish out the interior of the barn, so my machines and things all sit and wait while collecting more rust. I occasionally spray them with oil, and cover them with plastic, but it doesn't seem to be working. I need to get the ambition up to clean the attached garage and atleast store these things in there. It is just such a mess with my wife's junk and the kids junk that I can't motivate myself to clean it.
 

Muggzy

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Orange Co., NY
This all makes me very jealous...

At the last house we lived in, I had a small garage but it was insulated, heated, and organized to a tee. I spent many days and nights polishing tools and turning them into show pieces.

Since then, we have moved into a much larger house, and it came with a nice 40x80 barn. Unfortunately, the barn is not heated or insulated, and only has gravel for a floor. All the tools I spent so much time making look good, are all now getting rusty again. I have not had the time or money to finish out the interior of the barn, so my machines and things all sit and wait while collecting more rust. I occasionally spray them with oil, and cover them with plastic, but it doesn't seem to be working. I need to get the ambition up to clean the attached garage and atleast store these things in there. It is just such a mess with my wife's junk and the kids junk that I can't motivate myself to clean it.
Plastic covering is not a good idea. When the air warms and the ground is still cool, moisture evaporates up, is contained around the tools,/machine and condenses on the cold metal. May not be as bad in the barn, but I've seen people destroy 4-wheelers by storing them outside like that.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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freudianfloyd

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Plastic covering is not a good idea. When the air warms and the ground is still cool, moisture evaporates up, is contained around the tools,/machine and condenses on the cold metal. May not be as bad in the barn, but I've seen people destroy 4-wheelers by storing them outside like that.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Well the plastic was just laid across the top of the equipment because the roof leaks. They were not wrapped up.
 

njhoudini

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Central Jersey
Perhaps you could finish a small section of the barn to which you could introduce a dehumidifier. It would certainly be an investment to prevent any further damage to your tools. I'm just now working on my old detached garage and my plan is to hopefully seal it up enough that I could justify installing a window A/C heater after I upgrade the electric in there.

After seeing everyone's amazing polishing results :bowdown:, I may need to get a buffing wheel and some compounds. I was just putting a dozen bolts and washers from my vintage Craftsman 10" table saw to the wire wheel to and thought to myself, "I can't be the only one who gets immense pleasure from making things shiny again..." :headscrat
 

IndyGarage

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The forklift is hilarious. I was trying to figure out what the suitcase was, then I saw the wood paneling...

I had one like that one pass through my shop a few months ago. I had a couple of slightly smaller and older ones a few years ago. Good little workhorses. I like the Clark Green, I think it's called "hot yellow green" or something like that.
 

tslater1989

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I got bored, decided to polish an old polisher. Took all of ten minutes to get to this point. I think I'm going to tear it down and restore it.
 

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Mr. Wonderful

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This thread has me looking at garage sale finds in a whole new light. I had been keeping an eye out for a proper entry. I found this Milwaukee angle drill for the price of $5 and couldnt resist. The box was pretty beat up and there was quite a bit of dirt in it. The drill itself wasnt too bad other than the cord was fraying at the handle.

I removed all the plastics and they got a good scrub with soapy water. The metal parts were treated to the buffing wheel. The box was definitely past looking new again but after some sanding and some paint it came out pretty well. Much to my surprise someone else had done this same exatct drill early on in the thread as well.

If anyone can tell me what the piece is between the wrench and the chuck key in the third picture it would be appreciated. It was in the bottom of the box with the rest of the handles.
 

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jhn9840

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Very nice job on the right angle drill. Did you hand paint the Milwaukee lettering on the steel box? If so even a much better job on that project. Thanks for sharing.

jhn9840
John
 

larry4406

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This thread has me looking at garage sale finds in a whole new light. I had been keeping an eye out for a proper entry. I found this Milwaukee angle drill for the price of $5 and couldnt resist. The box was pretty beat up and there was quite a bit of dirt in it. The drill itself wasnt too bad other than the cord was fraying at the handle.

I removed all the plastics and they got a good scrub with soapy water. The metal parts were treated to the buffing wheel. The box was definitely past looking new again but after some sanding and some paint it came out pretty well. Much to my surprise someone else had done this same exatct drill early on in the thread as well.

If anyone can tell me what the piece is between the wrench and the chuck key in the third picture it would be appreciated. It was in the bottom of the box with the rest of the handles.

Excellent job! I would be more than happy to give you 100% profit and take it off your hands for $10.
 

drivesitfar

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Mr.W: i won't up the offers to buy your Milwaukee cause i already own three of those and i think the least I paid for one was a benjamin. I will say you did a better than good job restoring that old box and i wish I owned that box instead of the ones mine are in. WELL DONE SIR and HAPPY HUNTING IN THE GREAT PNW.

ALL: i'm really getting the bug to shine something up, but can't find any of my tools while i'm GETTING ORGANIZED so i'm heading back to my room.

hope you all keep posting more cool stuff cause it's giving me plenty of incentive.
 

GrayFlattop

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This thread has me looking at garage sale finds in a whole new light. I had been keeping an eye out for a proper entry. I found this Milwaukee angle drill for the price of $5 and couldnt resist. The box was pretty beat up and there was quite a bit of dirt in it. The drill itself wasnt too bad other than the cord was fraying at the handle.

I removed all the plastics and they got a good scrub with soapy water. The metal parts were treated to the buffing wheel. The box was definitely past looking new again but after some sanding and some paint it came out pretty well. Much to my surprise someone else had done this same exatct drill early on in the thread as well.

If anyone can tell me what the piece is between the wrench and the chuck key in the third picture it would be appreciated. It was in the bottom of the box with the rest of the handles.

That is a chuck removal tool. First remove the LH-thread socket-head cap screw that holds the chuck to the arbor. Then put the removal tool in one of the three holes that the chuck key seats in. Then rap it with a brass hammer to loosed from the threaded shaft - the shaft should be RH thread (the LH SHCS keeps the chuck on when operating in reverse).

Or at least hat's the way I remember it. The Milwaukee 90 degree plumbers kit was the first Milwaukee tool I bought back in the 70's. Still Have it - It still works.
 

Mr. Wonderful

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That is a chuck removal tool. First remove the LH-thread socket-head cap screw that holds the chuck to the arbor. Then put the removal tool in one of the three holes that the chuck key seats in. Then rap it with a brass hammer to loosed from the threaded shaft - the shaft should be RH thread (the LH SHCS keeps the chuck on when operating in reverse).

Or at least hat's the way I remember it. The Milwaukee 90 degree plumbers kit was the first Milwaukee tool I bought back in the 70's. Still Have it - It still works.

Great! I removed that screw inside when I tried to get the chuck off but didn't want to ruin anything so I stopped. Thank you!
 

gicts

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I've never tried a rock tumbler ... :beer

Doh! Gave it a go and it did something, albeit next to nothing. Used stainless steel pins(great for reloading) on a wrench for about 3 hours and results were less than impressive. I've got another try going with a sandblasted and wire wheel-ed wrench going with SS and vinegar. I'll let ya know.

To the guy who uses the expensive dremel bits - came across these at Harbor Freight today. Nylon 150 grit drill attachments for $4.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-150-grit-shaft-mounted-wheel-brush-91372.html
 

eric.holmslice

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BEFORE & AFTER....A Tool Polisher's Haven

Spent a few weekends cleaning up this old Stanley. Each time I work on one of these projects I re-insulate all the wiring. Also replace all wiring to the switch and add a ground.



(Note: I’ll add more pics later. Getting an error on Tapatalk)


IMG_5703.jpg


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eric.holmslice

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9438d7e028583edfa792a64ea6d1c3c8.jpg

8c335096ddb8dc42e1b820be2fd562c8.jpg


Ummmmm.... yuck!

c8f8409dc8bc9def4b93174b09219e9b.jpg

Tip. Don’t turn these things on until you inspect the internal wiring. The last three drills I took apart were very iffy.



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200 grit to start on most parts. Finished with 320 grit to 400 grit before moving to the buffer.

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The emblem was very worn out rubber. I decided to try a brushed look and remove it.

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I’m still learning a lot from this site. After I sand with 320 or 400 I buff with black compound on a medium buff. Slowly work up the red then white compound. I may make a video on my next project.

I thought this was an interesting brand. It appears to be chrome finished so it will take some work to remove and polish.

3c5a506d0c94c792b6765a2160a65ab5.jpg


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don long

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,841
Location
southern california
Eric

Your project looks good.

If you sand your projects with 400 then 600 then 800 grits you will find the buffer work to be much faster and you can skip the black and red sticks

Thats how I do it. Sometimes I'll use 1200 too (Just an FYI)
 

eric.holmslice

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
99
Eric

Your project looks good.

If you sand your projects with 400 then 600 then 800 grits you will find the buffer work to be much faster and you can skip the black and red sticks

Thats how I do it. Sometimes I'll use 1200 too (Just an FYI)



I tend to get sick of sanding after awhile and prefer to move over to a machine. Do you know of any good mechanical methods of sanding at this grit level?




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