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BEFORE & AFTER....A Tool Polisher's Haven

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Bowtie4life

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Joined
Apr 17, 2020
Messages
130
Location
Washington DC
I finally have something to add to this thread
I picked up this jack for $35.00 and was grateful to the seller for shipping it to me from Ohio

1a - Copy.jpg

After a few weeks of hard work getting it apart, sand blasted, smoothed and polished I now have a piece that I can proudly display in my garage

2021-08-10 17.09.29 - Copy.jpg



2021-08-10 17.08.52 - Copy.jpg

The handle has yet to be worked on.
Man......you did an excellent job on that jack. It is a work of art!!!
 

Shiftless

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Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,495
Location
East Bay SFO
Don:
You were a bit shy about how bad that drawknife was when you received it. Below the finished product picture here is the “before“ your before picture.
Although far simpler than the projects you usually take on, you did your usual trophy winning restoration. Truly remarkable!

(Pictures from my hand tool restoration challenge thread)

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freudianfloyd

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Joined
Feb 12, 2015
Messages
3,426
Location
Nowhere
For those of you polishing experts, how do you polish a piece of steel without removing any engraving or stamping? I have a F. **** cleaver I bought at a yardsale for $2. It was a rusty mess, but I have brought a shine back to it, however it still shows pitting which I would like to remove, but if I go that deep, I will below the factory stampings. What is the trick?
 

Shiftless

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Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,495
Location
East Bay SFO
Don,
I will be sending you a 1968 mustang for your next restoration challenge.

I want to wish you good luck with this and understand if it takes you a month or two before you send it back to me. I'd like to suggest red candy pearl for the paint, but I'll defer to you as the artist.
Great job,
Griff
The rules of the restoration challenge say that the donor has to pay for postage or shipping of the old tool to whoever accepts the challenge and the person who does the restoration gets to keep the item. It‘s the photos and the story that make the game fun.
 

Monza Harry

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Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,433
Location
Windsor ON
Don,
I will be sending you a 1968 mustang for your next restoration challenge.

I want to wish you good luck with this and understand if it takes you a month or two before you send it back to me. I'd like to suggest red candy pearl for the paint, but I'll defer to you as the artist.
Great job,
Griff
The rules of the restoration challenge say that the donor has to pay for postage or shipping of the old tool to whoever accepts the challenge and the person who does the restoration gets to keep the item. It‘s the photos and the story that make the game fun.
I had the same plan as "Griff" and while postage will hurt I may still be convinced. That was until "Shiftless" put the kibosh on my devilish plan! :mad: Harry
 

ddawg16

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
21,005
Location
S. California
Just found this thread....or rather 'saw' it.

Damn............now I'm jealous.......and I thought my restoration of a #2 plane was cool.....now I feel so 'insignificant'
 

don long

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,842
Location
southern california
Don,
The garage is outstanding
Griff
Thanks Griff
Did you drop by my thread on the garage build (Building my big party garage?
Here is a link
 

calandrod

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2020
Messages
324
Location
Kansas
The rules of the restoration challenge say that the donor has to pay for postage or shipping of the old tool to whoever accepts the challenge and the person who does the restoration gets to keep the item. It‘s the photos and the story that make the game fun.
Maybe I missed it; but where is the link to that thread?
 

Shiftless

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Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,495
Location
East Bay SFO
Maybe I missed it; but where is the link to that thread?
Here is a link to that thread that I started a while back.

 

calandrod

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Joined
Jul 2, 2020
Messages
324
Location
Kansas
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I just finished this Dake Ratcheting 3 ton No 1/1/2 Arbor Press. It came from an aircraft factory and was sold at auction. I bought it from the guy who picked it up at the auction. I paid him $175 which seemed like a pretty good deal. The paint color is a PPG custom blue based off of a 1930’s Baldor Grinder grinder I have. From the research I’ve done, it seems to be 1950’s due to the brass data plate which they switched to something else shortly thereafter. But it was hard to find a whole lot of information on it beyond that.
 

losdudes

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Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
210
Location
Colorado
F98FABEA-3A94-4A6E-B06A-6764F4903A5F.jpeg
I just finished this Dake Ratcheting 3 ton No 1/1/2 Arbor Press. It came from an aircraft factory and was sold at auction. I bought it from the guy who picked it up at the auction. I paid him $175 which seemed like a pretty good deal. The paint color is a PPG custom blue based off of a 1930’s Baldor Grinder grinder I have. From the research I’ve done, it seems to be 1950’s due to the brass data plate which they switched to something else shortly thereafter. But it was hard to find a whole lot of information on it beyond that.
Nice job
 
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calandrod

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Joined
Jul 2, 2020
Messages
324
Location
Kansas
Here’s a recent restoration I finished. It doesn’t have much innate value. But the friend from whom I acquired it remembered playing with it 50 years ago as a kid. Who knows how much older than that it is. So it has sentimental value. I painted to match the above arbor press.
 

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don long

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Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,842
Location
southern california
I finished this Alemite handy cart a while back and scents this thread has resurfaced I'll post it here
I found this in an auction back east thanks to a fellow GJ member

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I went to work tracking down more grease guns while waiting on the delivery of the cart. Knowing that the cart was missing the mounts for the grease guns I went to work getting them 3D printed by my son.
When the cart arrived I started cleaning and polishing the grease guns. I dismantled the cart and started the restoration on the pieces

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I removed the dents, primed and painted the big pieces. Polished the sign ring and made a new sign for the cart

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With the sign and the cart finished I went back to work polishing and painting the new found grease guns

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I put the guns on the cart and moved it to the party garage for display

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ConductorChris

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Joined
Mar 21, 2017
Messages
160
How do you determine that ?
Sorry it took so long to reply. I have not been on here for quite some time.
The railway track you were polishing should have some writing on the inside web (The vertical part between the base and the head. If your piece is long enough it will say the manufactures name, location and size. And sometimes the date.

[From Wikipedia]
The weight of a rail per length is an important factor in determining rail strength and hence axleloads and speeds.
Weights are measured in pounds per yard (imperial units are used in Canada, the United Kingdom and United States) or kilograms per metre (metric units are used in Australia and mainland Europe). 1 kg/m = 2.0159 lb/yd.

Commonly, in rail terminology pound is a metonym for the expression pounds per yard and hence a 132–pound rail means a rail of 132 pounds per yard.

==============
Where I am, most old rail like the piece you have is 140 lb rail. New rails put down today is 172 lb (I think). It has a much higher web (about 6 inches) and of course weights a lot more.
 

Garage Junkie

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Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
173
Location
Cleveland, OH
Thanks, Don, it's not up to your normal restoration level, but it's good enough to work another 20 years for me. It came with a 3hp 3-phase motor, so after a little research, I decided to skip the cheap inverters on Ebay and go with the OEM. I installed a KBAC-29 (1P) which supports the 3hp. Depending on what you have, you could go with a lower-rated unit to save a buck. I bought it directly from kb-controls.com and it shipped within a couple of days. The documentation was good and it was easy to wire up.
 

catalytic

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Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
636
Location
Boston, Los Angeles, Cleveland
Finished up a Burr King. I ended up putting more into this than I had hoped or planned, but it's done now and I'm happy to have it.
Wow nice! I have done 3 (two model 760's like yours and a little 562). Yours looks like a mid 1980's model (you can tell by the base, the metal door, and esp. the way the metal door closes). This is a good year range---they improved the ease of adjusting the tracking compared to the design of the 1970's ones. If you haven't already, ask Burr King for some info based on the serial number that will be stamped into the side of the baseplate right under the machine. They are awesome---they stock every part for every version of that machine through the years. They aren't cheap, but they are quite fair in terms of charging for parts a little bit more than it costs them to make them.
 

Garage Junkie

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Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
173
Location
Cleveland, OH
Thanks Catalytic! Yes, I know the Burr King folks well- this machine had a hard life before it found the comforts of my shop. There were brass grindings stuck to everything. The front/lower spindle bearings were shot, and I didn't realize it in my excitement to buy it, but the entire tensioning system was missing. So I spent close to $1K to replace all moving components and upgrade to 2" wheels. Burr King was great to deal with and nice enough to throw in a set of stickers for free. I did re-use one of the wheels- I put it on the tensioner which works fine.

If you look closely at the first picture there is a 35th-anniversary sticker on the side of the machine- so you are correct about the age.

Oddly enough, the tool rest arm was cast out of brass- someone must have needed a replacement and just used the old one to make a mold rather than order one. I started to polish it up but decided to just paint it instead. It works just fine.
 
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