Black & Decker Workmate

[wolfcj]

I agree that a Black & Decker color code from the 1970's is no help, we need to hear from those with experience at touching up Workmates with paints that are readily available. I have heard experiences from three owners with spray paints, all of them close, but judged to be good enough only for touching up less visible places. Rustoleum Coastal Grey Satin and Krylon Matte Deep Gray are reportedly both too light for the best match. Rustoleum Antique Bronze is another one reported to me, but again judged to be not quite close enough. Another owner described using a brush-on paint that he mixed himself combining two or three colors from the store. I don't have his description right at hand now.

So what was the specific paint that you used that you found to be a very close match?

 

[wolfcj]

This is the comment I received from an owner about touching up Workmate gray with brush-on paint:
"I got a can of Rustoleum Smoke Gray and another of flat black. Not spray, but for brushing. I put a couple scoops of gray into an empty can, then add 1/4 scoop of black and mixing them together. Then test it. Keep adding black until it looks right. Keep track of how much you add.
I’ve gotten very close this way. The Rustoleum brushes out well and you can control the paint more easily. "

He also commented that to match the paint on a Workmate, the touch-up paint should be matte or satin, but I'm not sure that's always true. I'm pretty sure some of mine have been pretty glossy. I imagine that exposure to the elements is likely to dull the paint, so YMMV.

 

[wolfcj]

I'm happy to announce another first for my Workmate website! A number of people have asked for something like this over the years, and now it's here. It's my new, very lengthy page: Black & Decker Workmate Complete Model History

For the first time, it documents (mostly in images) 36 different Workmate benches that Black & Decker has sold in North America, each with the approximate years that it was on the market. I believe it is a complete list, but I'm counting on owners to tell me about any models I have overlooked, or errors I've made.

 

[Skyman]

Nicely done, Wolf. It's good of you to put so much time into developing such an extensive archive about these things.

Steve

 

[Zeke]

Excellent. I bet you could start a Go Fund Me page or Kickstarter to raise enough money to publish this and set up a website (with Stanley's OK).

 

[captain14]

Pictures?

Here’s one of the trays I made attached to a WM. Front and rear side with mounting clips and the design from Fine Homebuilding magazine.

 

[Skyman]

Excellent. I bet you could start a Go Fund Me page or Kickstarter to raise enough money to publish this and set up a website (with Stanley's OK).

If I were the CEO of Stanley, I'd see it as something that's good for the corporate image, and I'd provide the funding for it. But, I'm sure there are plenty of very sound reasons that I'm not the CEO of anything other than myself.

Steve

 

[RTM]

The Stanley Blood and Gore plane information page faced legal trouble with Satanley trying to shut him down in the day.

 

[wolfcj]

Excellent. I bet you could start a Go Fund Me page or Kickstarter to raise enough money to publish this and set up a website (with Stanley's OK).

When you suggest setting up a website, I suppose you mean buying a dedicated domain name for the site that I have now on Weebly. I could easily fund that myself without donations, and I have given thought to it. I know that "h-frame.net" is available.

I realize this is going to go off-topic, but since you brought it up—My big concern about my documentation of the Workmate is how to ensure it will stay around after I'm gone. My health is generally good, better than most my age in fact, but I am up to an age where I could just wake up dead tomorrow. Somewhat oddly, my website has given me a reason to worry more about that possibility.

I have spent three years now, on and off, digging and compiling the infomation at my site. As far as I can see there is no other collection of information in the world about the Workmate that is even close to this in depth or breadth. Of course I realize how highly specialized and geeky the topic is, but niche interests are something that the web excels at enabling.

So I'm wondering if anyone here has suggestions for how to arrange for the continuation of a personal website after the creator is gone. In my case, there is a small amount of security because it's on a free Weebly account that has no fees to be paid. However, we know that tech companies come and go. Companies also change policies, so they could eliminate the free accounts. Or it's possible that they could delete sites where the owner hasn't logged in for a certain period of time. Lots of ways the site could disappear.

If this is too far off-topic, perhaps anyone with suggestions could DM me instead of posting publicly. Thanks.

 

[Zeke]

Perpetuality is difficult. Perhaps donate the rights to your work to a tool museum with a directive. Otherwise it will get expensive. Stanley might be interested, but as you say, companies shed their skin now and then.

 

[wolfcj]

I have an important addition to my website this week—a blog post chronicling where the Workmates for North America and the UK were manufactured from 1968 through the early 2000's.
https://h-frame.weebly.com/blog/where-was-the-black-decker-workmate-made

 

[RTM]

One way to ensure perpetuity is to keep a local usable backup, at your location, and with someone (interested in them) else. That way, if Weebly goes toes up, you have a workable copy. Or if you don't wake up, someone else has a copy that can be reloaded at a new location when Weebly locks them out.

A few websites have been lost to both those causes, and the wayback machine is only so useful.

 

[wolfcj]

Yes, Weebly provides a way for owners to download a backup, and I do that (my career was in IT). However, because Weebly is not just a hosting service but also a custom development platform, it appears that their backups cannot simply be moved to a different server and be fully functional. It's not quite clear exactly how much editing would be required to get it working again if it were necessary to move it. I suspect that is a common issue for sites based on the major hosts. Second, at the moment I don't have that "someone else" who is crazy enough to care about this.

 

[Crow Horse]

Here's a tray mod that I made. I used a feeder from TSC and some rope hooks. Easy, fairly cheap and quite useful. Plexiglass for the bottom shelf.....

 

[pbon]

I bought a WM425 about 25 years ago when I lived in an apartment. I have moved 4 or 5 times since and now have an 800SF shop, but recently saw the workmate stored in the basement. When I have to downsize one day, I could take it with me to the retirement home.

 

[wolfcj]

Here's a tray mod that I made. I used a feeder from TSC and some rope hooks. Easy, fairly cheap and quite useful. Plexiglass for the bottom shelf.....

Nice addition. Looks very classy in the photos and, more importantly, useful.

 

[wolfcj]

How is this for a heavy-duty way to put your Workmate on wheels?

 

[Skyman]

How is this for a heavy-duty way to put your Workmate on wheels?

That's one way to get it done. But, I think I'd get tired of busting my shins on those...

Steve

 

[wolfcj]

No question!

 

[Outlawmws]

Not to mention chasing the thing...

Crow, I like the tray you made! quick to move too!

 

[Crow Horse]

Thanks. It'll hang on both the front or the back depending on needs at the time.

 

[evh]

Ok, I have searched and I haven't found an answer to my question so I am going to ask. I have a Workmate 79-001 Type E that is in good shape and is all original. Any idea what it might be worth? Thx!

 

[Crow Horse]

Here (rural NYS) they range from $40-$60 (asking price).

 

[evh]

Ok, thx Crow Horse, I thought the value on the original ones might be greater. I guess not.

 

[fartymarty]

Ok, thx Crow Horse, I thought the value on the original ones might be greater. I guess not.

I'd check ebay to see what your competition is. I just checked and the lowest priced one with the aluminum
H frame was $175.
The value is always higher if the seller is patient...because usually an impatient buyer will come along....eventually.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I have bought a couple E types and in my opinion they were worth significantly more than the $50 average I paid for them. A lot of things regularly sell well below what a knowledgable and motivated buyer would pay for them. I suspect not that many sellers know or care about early workmates or their differences from later models.

This lack of knowledge or appreciation for the early design could lead to the often seen bargain prices for E-types in online advertisements and at yard sales. As time goes by a general awareness and coresponding collectability of things like an early E-type WM as well as their percieved value will probably increase significantly over later versions. At least thats what I think.....

 

[Toxictom]

I have a Workmate that my father gave me as a gift around 1985 or so.
Does anyone know where to get the trianglar rubber feet for these?

 

[RTM]

Most people think the Type E look spindly and less sturdy than the type 1-4, as a user. I don't plan to educate them.

 

[RTM]

I have a Workmate that my father gave me as a gift around 1985 or so.
Does anyone know where to get the trianglar rubber feet for these?

All the real parts are long out of stock, but it depends on your exact model, they've made some generic parts that sorta fit a few of the newer single level ones. Don't expect these to get you back to "like new" or original, but they may help you function.

Black and Decker Workmate Parts | Fast Shipping | eReplacementParts.com

Black and Decker Workmate parts that fit, straight from the manufacturer. Use our interactive diagrams, accessories, and expert repair help to fix your Black and Decker Workmate

www.ereplacementparts.com

Go here to figure out what you've got (click on "workmates" to start)

Black & Decker Workmate WM625

Black & Decker Workmate WM625 vintage UK and European models

h-frame.weebly.com

Then scroll down to "type study" to find out what you have

or "parts repair" to see what parts have been dug up for you.

 

[wolfcj]

I have a Workmate that my father gave me as a gift around 1985 or so.
Does anyone know where to get the trianglar rubber feet for these?

First you should figure out what model you have. If there are no markings or labels on it to tell you the model, go to
https://h-frame.weebly.com/complete-model-history.html
and scroll through the 35 or so different models shown there to see if you can find a match to yours. It shows the years when each one was made, so that should help narrow it down, if you're sure of that 1985 date. Once you have the model, do a web search for parts, e.g. "Workmate 79-032 parts".

 

[Outlawmws]

The most I've paid for my older WM's (baring one that was pristine, and the new ones...) was $15. some were as low as $5 I'm probably close to $$ neutral for workmates after selling a few to thin the herd.

But admittedly that's not "Market".

 

[rancherbill]

For my collection #1 was free, #2 was $2 and #3 was $4. I take my garbage to the dump and they have a re-use center and I always check it out. That's where I got my deals. I also take other treasures to leave there, I even had a guy help me unload stuff because he wanted something.

I also paid $40 and $70 for WMs presents for my sons. I always buy them DIY stuff.

I was too slow to pay $80 for one of the original ones which was the start of this conversation.

As has been mentioned sometimes you can find deals, other times you have to pay.

 

[Zeke]

Most of the time here in the city when people are selling a WM they don't know what they have. And 99% of the people who are visiting garage sales don't know what it is, spare the swap meet sellers and other pros. so if you beat the pros to it, the price is cheap. If you don't, it's gone. Folks that start out at $40 still have it at noon. Then it becomes 20.

Once in awhile there will be some woman that has one and it's like 7 bucks. Widows, divorcee's that still have some of the tools, or
survivors of some old guy. Hardley ever are they set out at the curb unless they are roached.

 

[Outlawmws]

I got one of my 200's (later sold) from a post block sale curb dump. no brainier for that one.

And a couple from Freecycle, a big 550 I never use, and one 525 "Combo" Workmate that is either a bench or a clumsy hand truck I gave my son.

 

[wolfcj]

Here are four pics that show the change. I assume the first two pics are of the earliest version with a small center tab held by a single rivet. The second two pics show a wider center tab held with three rivets that helps to reinforce the front leg mounts. Perhaps more importantly it reinforces the foot board in the center where it is most vulnurable to buckling under a heavy foot. The reinforced wider tab is a significant improvement to the design. If this has been mentioned upthread I missed it. Ed.

Back in September I told you I didn't know of a reliable way to date the 79-001 Type E. Today I may have discovered how. Look at the center portion of the front (or inner) side of the rear dual-leg casting. You may see three marks: a code for the mold used, the B&D part number, and a sort of clock dial with what I believe is the year of manufacture. In the attached photo, the mold code is FD4, the part number is 994662, and the year is 74. In reviewing my archive of Workmate photos, very few of them show this particular spot clearly, as you would expect. I have found examples with both 72 and 74 for the year.

Can you check both of yours and see if you can confirm these markings? I would expect them to have the same part number, a variety of mold numbers, and years ranging from 72 up to 76. I'd like to hear from any other owners of a Type E or a WM325 about this also.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Nice discovery Wolf. I can't believe I didn't notice those numbers as I thought I had looked both of mine over closely. After our discussion on B&D cost cutting I had come to the belief that the one with the wide tab on the foot board likely preceeded the one with the narrow tab. Here are pics of both rear leg castings. The one starting with FD3 is from the wide tab Narrow tab WM. The one starting with FD4 is from the narrow Wide tag WM. Both apparently from 74' as always believed. Thanks for all your research. Ed.

 

[wolfcj]

I hope other owners of the 79-001 Type E or the UK model WM325 will take note of the above and report what number they can find in the "clock dial" marking on their Workmate rear leg casting.

So far I have just five: a WM325 Type 1 with a "72", which is an appropriate year for a Type 1; and four 79-001 Type E's with "74", which is the appropriate year for them. I would love to find quite a few more from 72 to 76.

Regarding the tab on the footrest on the Type E, two have the wide tab along with the FD3 mold ID, and two have the narrow tab along with the FD4 mold ID.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'll try to check some of mine this W/E Wolf.

 

[evh]

Mine is a Type E and states FN3 994662 with a 74 in the "clock".

 

[wolfcj]

Mine is a Type E and states FN3 994662 with a 74 in the "clock".

Thanks. If this really is a year marking, I expect that all 79-001 Type E's will have a 74, but I hope owners will report them anyway, just to confirm. There is a small chance that some of the very first Type E's imported in early 1974 were produced in 1973, so a "73" wouldn't surprise me.