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Blair Rotabroach Hole Cutter Review

Bigblue&Goldie

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I enjoy reading quick tool reviews, so I've been trying to remember to post them as I come across tools that I like. A recent purchase that has stuck out to me is the Blair Rotabroach hole cutters. In short, these are excellent tools that have changed how I do things.

I recently built a rolling stand for a JD2 hydraulic tubing bender which required drilling (2) 3/4" holes in 1/4" chromoly stock for mounting the main bender frame. I have a pretty good drill press, yet I wasn't looking forward to this procedure as drilling a hole of that size is better suited to much larger equipment than what I have at my disposal. After doing some reading I decided to break down and buy the Blair Rotabroach hole cutter set #11090 and a tube of their lubricant. The cost was ~$63 (going rate). Included in the kit are 5/16"-3/4" cutters, an arbor, 2 extra pilots, and a punch. Not cheap, but a bargain in the long run.

11090-2.jpg


Manufacturer's Information:
https://www.blairequipment.com/rotabroach-cutters

Lube Stick:
https://shop.blairequipment.com/Cutter-Lubricant-p/11750.htm

1) The way these work is you use the center punch to locate your pilot in your material. This is a standard layout practice with a twist drill, so nothing unusual, Blair just makes it convenient by throwing one into the kit.

2) Thread on the appropriate size cutter to the arbor and align your material into your drill press. The pilot is spring loaded into the arbor, which make it super easy to make sure you have your stock perfectly lined up with your spindle (easier than lining up a twist drill).

3) Apply some Blair stick lube, which is really similar to a chapstick. I really liked this lube as it didn't make a mess and held up for the whole duration of the cuts.

CAUTION: if you are one of those dipshits that doesn't wear eye protection, these are not a tool for you.

4) Set your drill press/drill to the appropriate speed (speed table conveniently provided on lid of case) and feed her down.

Easy.

The Rotabroaches cut extremely smooth and you can be aggressive with your feed rate. These things remove some serious material, so expect a lot of stringy chips. Going back to my above caution, that pilot is spring loaded in order to also eject the slug that would ordinarily get jammed into the hole cutter......they come out like a bullet! I had one shoot across my garage 20' and hit the wall. They are no joke, wear your safety glasses!!! I was incredibly impressed with how fast and easy the Rotabroach made it through the chromoly. My 2 hole pattern was perfectly aligned due to how well the spring loaded pilot locates in the center punch *****.

Note how clean the holes are. I did zero post clean up. The bottom (not pictured) had a small burr, that was quickly buzzed off with a flap wheel or deburring tool.

IWc1OwN.jpg


Pros:
-All inclusive kit
-Cut very clean, nearly burr free hole
-No need to drill pilot hole
-Made in USA (except larger Holcutter sizes)
-Quality blow molded case
-Spare pilots included
-Fit 3/8" and 1/2" chucks
-Cut up to 1/2" thick stock (depending on size of Rotabroach)
-Cheaper than twist drills in equivalent sizes
-Cuts way cleaner and faster than a standard hole saw
-Kits don't overlap sizes
-Cuts thicker material than most step bits (also cuts faster)
-Work in hand drill or drill press

Cons:
-Initial buy in price (really not bad, but $63 is $63)
-Don't drill as deep as a twist drill
-Hard to remove cutters from arbor (requires 2 sets of pliers)

In summary, these are awesome tools for people that don't have access to a large drill press or mill, but need to make large, clean holes. I was so impressed that I bought their Holcutters/arbor to correlate with every size that I dimple die. I can't speak for longevity at this point, but I imagine it will be far better than a hole saw.
 
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Buickspec6231

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I have that same kit and used it today. Needed to drill a handful of holes 1/2" and 3/4" in some 1/4" plate. took me less that five minutes even when chucked up in a handheld drill. Worth the investment completely.
 

Hammer1963

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These are a great product. I have owned both the metric and fractional for many years and find them well worth the money. They can be sharpened if you practice. If you do any sheet metal work, these are a must have
 

9GUY9

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Nice review. That is now added to the wish list.

I just finished a project, that involved drilling a bunch of 5/8, and 3/4 holes in 3/8" steel. This would have been great.
 

Showkey

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:spit: out
Bigblue&Goldie;ringy Cons: -Initial buy in price (really not bad said:
[*]Hard to remove cutters from arbor (requires 2 sets of pliers)


In summary, these are awesome tools for people that don't have access to a large drill press or mill, but need to make large, clean holes. I was so impressed that I bought their Holcutters/arbor to correlate with every size that I dimple die. I can't speak for longevity at this point, but I imagine it will be far better than a hole saw.

I have the complete set up to 2” and love them as well.

On the cons............hard to remove the cutters. We learned on another post, the nut on the arbor next to the cutter is used to remove the cutter.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398251
 

kkroger

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That same Blair set is sitting on my desk right this second, Hougen sells the exact same kit under their label as well, I believe Hougen makes them all... It has gotten so that I would Rather Broach a hole than to drill one.

My favorite tool store sells Hougen and the Local Welding Supply does as well. Hougen makes annular cutters and Mag Drills as well.

https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/tool-brand/hougen.html
 

kkroger

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Quick Tip on removing the cutter from the arbor clamp the arbor in a vise or leave it in the drill then use a small adjustable wrench to engage on the side grooves of the cutters then just wrench em off...
 

Xti04

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They are must have item for installing trailer hitches where you have to drill thru the frame of a truck. I bought mine just cause I got tired of seeing them on the tool truck, also great for notching pipe/tubes.
 

sanddan

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I have a similar kit but it uses a drill bit similar to a standard hole saw. I think the max thickness you can drill is about 1/4". I got it for mostly sheet metal up to 1/8" to be used with my dimple die's but have used them for many other tasks. They work a lot better than any hole saw out there.
 

oldwino

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Thanks for taking the time to write up this review...very helpful. I've had these on my one- of-these-days purchase list but just haven't pulled the trigger yet. Have a couple of projects that I was planning to use hole saw but think I'll just pick up a set.

thanx for hleping to keep my bank account low:)
 

aka Larry

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I've had that same set for 7 years now. Mine still works great.

As has been said, if you install the washer before the cutter, it makes it easy to remove the cutter using the washer. Guess why that washer has two flat sides?
 
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Showkey

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I have a similar kit but it uses a drill bit similar to a standard hole saw. I think the max thickness you can drill is about 1/4". I got it for mostly sheet metal up to 1/8" to be used with my dimple die's but have used them for many other tasks. They work a lot better than any hole saw out there.

One trick to get 1/2” capacity is drill 1/16” pilot through hole. Broach from both sides:thumbup:
 

az45

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Ive had a set for a coupe of years and swear by them. I dont use them for anything heavy, I guess I'll have to start. I'd like to get the larger set.
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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Ive had a set for a coupe of years and swear by them. I dont use them for anything heavy, I guess I'll have to start. I'd like to get the larger set.

Nice avatar photo; I love vintage off road race cars. I raced NORRA last year and had a blast. I've also raced vintage class at the MINT 400 a couple of times. The picture in my original post has the motor in the background that goes in my Chenowth 4LWD.
 

plinker

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I found if you put the larger spring washer on arbor you can use a 3/4 wrench on that to remove the cutter. Also found if you put the washer up side down from what the instructions say the cutter will come off easier as well. IME, center punching should be accurately done and deep to get the best results and lessen the chance of skipping off.

I picked up the 1/4 size cutter to add to my set, these are my favorite way to make holes in 3/8 & thinner metal. Well worth the price.
 
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BukitCase

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I bought my blair kit AFTER I bought my Hougen 917 mag drill - I have 2" DOC cutters for the mag drill that go up to 1-1/2", but 1/2" is about the SMALLEST you can get, and I REALLY got spoiled with how easy annular cutters make drilling holes...

The last thing I used the small set for was the deck on my Cub RZT-50 - part of the area I keep mowed is really rough, and the Cub is FAR from a pro machine - the "tinfoil" air dam around the bottom of the deck finally gave up, sucked under the deck and committted suicide via the 3 blades :confused:

So after clearing out the wreckage, I decided to "upgrade" and see what failed NEXT. Original bolts were 1/4", not a lot of extra room in the rolled lip around the deck so I went with 5/16. I clamped a piece of 1/4" plate onto the bottom of the deck, drew a line around it to sorta match the original layout, cut that out with the plasma, then re-clamped it to the deck lip.

Used the original 1/4" holes, stuck a 1/4" transfer punch in and marked the new air dam, then the 5/16" rotobroach went thru and enlarged original bolt holes, AND drilled the matching holes into the 1/4" replacement - New grade 8 bolts (the bolt heads tend to drag the ground in spots), tightened 'em up (with the lock washers Cub forgot), removed the clamps, and am still waiting to see what the NEXT weak link is :bounce:

I don't use the small kit too often, but when I do it's sure nice (at 73) NOT to have to wear myself out just 'cause my big mag drill can't do holes that small (it can with the 3-jaw chuck adapter, but it's more of a PITA than just grabbing the rotobroach kit and a hand drill... Steve
 

JiminAZ

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A buddy recently loaned me his set for my use on a dock project. Each hole was exactly where I wanted it, and I did it with a cordless drill. As noted above a deep punch helps prevent walking. Taking a moment to square the bit to the work prevents walking too.

So easy and smooth cutting and way less effort than a drill.
 

tarmy

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Can these drill stainless steel...

Oh, and thanks guys...gonna need to get a set...I never knew that I just had to have these...

Yet another couple hundy on stuff I need.:bounce:
 

jeepinerdeep

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No doubt OP, these are great. I got both the small set and the expansion set. Nothing like them on material up to about 3/16, even in a hand drill.
 

BukitCase

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From Tarmy - "Can these drill stainless steel..."

I've not tried stainless with my set, so this isn't a guarantee, but from BB&G's link - "Rotabroach® Cutters are for precision holemaking in sheet metal, frame materials, and plate stock up to ½" thick, whether Mild Steel, Stainless Steel, or Aluminum."

Back when I was still punching a clock (and some fairly exotic materials at times) we sometimes needed to drill out stainless Swagelok fittings for custom attachments - I always DREADED that job 'cause all we had in the shop was a marginal DP and HSS or Cobalt drill bits - most of the time it wuz "one bit, one hole", and the stainless part got so hot it took several minutes to cool to the point we didn't need gloves...

The short answer (that it's already too late for) :lol_hitti - maybe, but don't hold yer breath :rolleyes: ...Steve
 

tarmy

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From Tarmy - "Can these drill stainless steel..."

I've not tried stainless with my set, so this isn't a guarantee, but from BB&G's link - "Rotabroach® Cutters are for precision holemaking in sheet metal, frame materials, and plate stock up to ½" thick, whether Mild Steel, Stainless Steel, or Aluminum."

Back when I was still punching a clock (and some fairly exotic materials at times) we sometimes needed to drill out stainless Swagelok fittings for custom attachments - I always DREADED that job 'cause all we had in the shop was a marginal DP and HSS or Cobalt drill bits - most of the time it wuz "one bit, one hole", and the stainless part got so hot it took several minutes to cool to the point we didn't need gloves...

The short answer (that it's already too late for) :lol_hitti - maybe, but don't hold yer breath :rolleyes: ...Steve

Thank you...sort of what I guessed. I am very familiar with the 1 drill bit per hole issue...
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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Another thing I thought I'd share is how I did my layout on this particular project......

This spacer is the hole pattern I had to match. Without a drawing, I would've ordinarily had to do some measuring and reverse engineer the dimensions as I don't have a transfer punch even close to 3/4". In this case, I clamped the spacer to my bar stock and inserted the Rotabroach into the hole as a reducer/bushing. Using a smaller transfer punch that fit nicely in the threaded hole of the Rotabroach I was able to mark out my pattern with great accuracy (bolts fit really tight on the bender frame).

iEvFlYt.jpg

6TQf8KB.jpg
 
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manwithtools

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In full disclosure, those are called "transfer punches" not center punches. Center punch picture coming up:

klein-tools-punches-nail-setters-66310-64_1000.jpg


Innovative use of the Rotabroach BTW. I've used washers, hex nuts, sockets, bushings I've turned on the lathe. Just about anything you can imagine.
 
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plinker

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Another thing I thought I'd share is how I did my layout on this particular project......

This spacer is the hole pattern I had to match. Without a drawing, I would've ordinarily had to do some measuring and reverse engineer the dimensions as I don't have a centerpunch even close to 3/4". In this case, I clamped the spacer to my bar stock and inserted the Rotabroach into the hole as a reducer/bushing. Using a smaller center punch that fit nicely in the threaded hole of the Rotabroach I was able to mark out my pattern with great accuracy (bolts fit really tight on the bender frame).

I've done similar works well. FWIW, Zoro & MSC have larger dia. transfer punches pretty reasonable. Imports & domestic both available.
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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In full disclosure, those are called "transfer punches" not center punches.

Thanks, I was feeding my girls while writing this and apparently I had center punches on my mind.:confused:

I've done similar works well. FWIW, Zoro & MSC have larger dia. transfer punches pretty reasonable. Imports & domestic both available.

My transfer punch set is just a generic Chinese set that goes up to about .500". It does 99% of what I need it to do. My center punches are Starrett, which are worth every penny.
 

BukitCase

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It's a handy trick (and quite a bit cheaper) to use some sort of bushing to "fake out" a 1/2" transfer into thinking it's bigger - when I was building the steel-framed roof over one of my containers I couldn't find anything handy to match 5/8" bolt holes in the 3 separate roof modules, so I just slid the "copy" 1/16" endwise compared to the one that already had 5/8" holes (bolt size), then held my 1/2" transfer punch against the side of the existing hole (in the opposite direction) and punched for the "copy" holes - when I inserted the bolts, the ends of the frame members were exactly even with each other.

Kinda seat of the pants, but it worked - since then I've picked up a few bushings of varying wall thickness, OD, etc, and keep 'em on the same shelf with the punch set in a small segmented parts case... Steve
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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Ive been using these in my work for many, many, years. I'm not sure when they where first introduced, maybe 1998? I would also highly recommend them to anyone needing to make fast holes. I've put many thousands of 5/8 and 3/4 holes in the machinery I service. I have even used them on many truck frames about 1/2 thick. Drill a small pilot hole through then go at it with the large cutter from each side. Newer double wall frames can be done in two steps - drill first layer and pick out the slug when it breaks through, then drill eth second layer through. I did stop doing so much with these when I jumped up to a real frame drill some years back, though I still hit space constraints that make these the only way to get it done. I regularly put holes in 1/4" material...find / punch center, add squirt of cutting oil and drill - done in under a minute.
 
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Provincial

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I bought a Rotobroch set in 1983. I like it a lot.

I use it for making holes in aluminum aircraft skins. I drill a small hole to center the pilot pin, not big enough for the pin to go through, just let the taper center. I can't risk having the cutter walk off.
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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I did some dimple die work that required 2" holes, so I thought I would update this with some pics of the "Holcutter" models in use. Unlike the Rotabroach's, these use a drill bit to locate the cutter. These pictures were fresh off the drill press; notice how the holes are essentially burr free. Excellent tools.

5hxlCMq.jpg

ZyQw49H.jpg

VPnElHs.jpg
 
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