RAYJAY said:
Yea, slowly getting back to normal after this day. Engine is in the truck, so now it's time to cleanup as well as integrate all my other stuff from my attached garage into the above cabinets (hence, why they're open).
bmwpower's garage build
- Thread starter bmwpower
- Start date
Yea, slowly getting back to normal after this day. Engine is in the truck, so now it's time to cleanup as well as integrate all my other stuff from my attached garage into the above cabinets (hence, why they're open).
Hades12
Well-known member
Very Nice....
1320stang
Well-known member
Very nice. As far as filling the gap at the lower part of the cabinets, I have another suggestion. Have a SS shop make you up some baseboards to put on the base of the cabinets. You don't say what kind of gaps you have.
Also, too bad you're not closer to Oklahoma, I have a co-worker with a grey market '85 M6 black/black that is languishing in his garage. He had the engine rebuilt and they used 'moly rings. He followed the break-in instructions to the "T" and after the appointed time, was still getting a little oil smoke, so he's convinced they're not broke in and it's been parked ever since. Still has the metric rims on it, but I'm sure the tires are dry rotted. I'd bet $6k or $7k would pick it up.
My friend has a Rotary lift in his garage, but it's an assymetrical two post lift. It's pretty nice. I guess going with the blue theme, you'll be purchasing some Miller products next.
Also, too bad you're not closer to Oklahoma, I have a co-worker with a grey market '85 M6 black/black that is languishing in his garage. He had the engine rebuilt and they used 'moly rings. He followed the break-in instructions to the "T" and after the appointed time, was still getting a little oil smoke, so he's convinced they're not broke in and it's been parked ever since. Still has the metric rims on it, but I'm sure the tires are dry rotted. I'd bet $6k or $7k would pick it up.
My friend has a Rotary lift in his garage, but it's an assymetrical two post lift. It's pretty nice. I guess going with the blue theme, you'll be purchasing some Miller products next.
1320stang
Well-known member
Oh, I don't know if you have an Ace Hardware up there, but they carry SS buttons that snap in holes as well as some black one. They're on the bolt isle.
1320stang said:
Thanks. The only problem with putting stainless strips along the bottom of the cabinets is that the gaps are not even because the floor is not even along the entire length. Plus, stainless would draw attention to the floor and I'd rather draw attention away from the floor.
If I buy another car my wife will have my hide. I just got done spending a good amount of time and money on a beat up F250. I'd love to have an M6. Maybe someday.
Yea, funny, I'd like to get a Miller sometime soon. So many times have I needed to fab something but don't have a mig/tig to do it.
1320stang
Well-known member
I've got a Miller 130 MIG. It's a 110 unit, but a buddy has used it to weld a pickup frame together and it's held up well. He fishplated and bolted it as well.
TNToy
Well-known member
That's funny. I found out about the same sharpie 'tip' last week. Posted it in the tool forum. 
Stainless is the only way to go.
Let me put it this way: Snap-On offers a butcher-block top, and a stainless top upgrade to every one of their toolboxes. So do Mac, Cornwell, and Matco.
The stainless one costs more than the wood one, and yet every single box in our dealership's shop, and every other one I've been in, has 1 of 2 things: A stainless top, or the factory rubber mat protected by rags. I've never even seen a butcher-block top on a professional tech's box.
Stainless is great. Nothing is easier to clean up, although eventually it'll become covered in thousands of tiny scratches. But unlike wood tops... if you're really a perfectionist, most of them would probably buff out with some mag wheel polish.
Stainless is the only way to go.
Let me put it this way: Snap-On offers a butcher-block top, and a stainless top upgrade to every one of their toolboxes. So do Mac, Cornwell, and Matco.
The stainless one costs more than the wood one, and yet every single box in our dealership's shop, and every other one I've been in, has 1 of 2 things: A stainless top, or the factory rubber mat protected by rags. I've never even seen a butcher-block top on a professional tech's box.
Stainless is great. Nothing is easier to clean up, although eventually it'll become covered in thousands of tiny scratches. But unlike wood tops... if you're really a perfectionist, most of them would probably buff out with some mag wheel polish.
bmw,
I've been watching your build for months (thats why I signed up - so I could see all the pictures) and just wanted to say your shop looks great. It's obvious that you've put a ton of planning into it and I love the way it looks.
I've been watching your build for months (thats why I signed up - so I could see all the pictures) and just wanted to say your shop looks great. It's obvious that you've put a ton of planning into it and I love the way it looks.
Hey, thanks guys for all the nice comments. Hopefully, some more changes coming sometime soon. Looking at putting in a new compressed air system, but I have to get a few other things finalized before I do so. As usually, pictures will follow!
Raven1911
Active member
Definitely a dream shop for sure! Awesome job! I research everything before I buy it and it looks like you are the same. How did you decide on the epoxy flooring choice with all those choices out there??
Raven1911 said:
(1) I wanted something heavy duty and solvent based.... eliminate 50% of off the shelf systems.
(2) I wanted something readily available locally - I didn't want to wait for an additional kit to ship out or pay for shipping.
(3) I wanted something with detailed installation instructions and support before/after the sale.
(4) I wanted something that received positive results from others.
That only left 2 products in my eyes - Rustoleum and ArmorSeal.
ArmorSeal won out in the end. I felt it was better suited for an "industrial" or automotive environment.
Hope that helps!
Raven1911
Active member
bmwpower said:
Where did you buy the armorseal from and who makes it?? Did it come as a kit with full instructions and such???
I really need to put down a floor in my garage soon, but with the temperatures too low right now, it won't dry properly. Have to wait till it gets warmer.
Raven1911 said:
It's a Sherwin Williams product. I bought it from them (through a painter friend). It's hard to get in certain states due to the amount/type of chemicals in it..
It doesn't come as a kit, but there is information available via PDF online.
You could do it now as long as the temp is up to spec, but it's easier when it's warmer outside. I did mine last December in the coldest month of the year, but I had heat in the garage. I have a thread on it somewhere on this site.
shopking68
Well-known member
bmwpower, your shop is only a 30x30? I thought it was bigger, why didnt u build bigger? You have all that land, just curious, not trying to be mean
shopking68 said:bmwpower, your shop is only a 30x30? I thought it was bigger, why didnt u build bigger? You have all that land, just curious, not trying to be mean
Cost. That and I didn't want the shop to be too big so that it looked the part when sitting next to the house. I had to get a variance for the size it is now (I could only build 25x30 before the variance). I felt the extra 5 feet was needed - boy was I ever so right. I have close neighbors that may have fought me if I went too big. I just wanted to avoid all conflicts yet still get something that was workable.
In hindsight, I should have tried to go bigger, but cost was a concern. I knew I wanted a lot of other goodies for the inside and I didn't want to not be able to furnish the place with those things.
I've been thinking about blowing out the backside of the garage to add an addition - office, bathroom, big tools storage, tractor storage, etc.... many of the things I overlooked when first planning.
73super
Well-known member
Man Law # 2048: The Shop should ALWAYS be at LEAST twice as large as the house.
I wish this thread would just die....haha.
BTW what does your attached garage look like, not sure I've seen that on this site before?
Everytime I see the pics of this place, I think wow....and wish I could have built bigger. I would have loved to have a 30xanything.
BTW what does your attached garage look like, not sure I've seen that on this site before?
Everytime I see the pics of this place, I think wow....and wish I could have built bigger. I would have loved to have a 30xanything.
shopking68
Well-known member
bmwpower said:
Thats cool. So you live in one of those neighborhoods that control what u can do and what u can build, man that must ****. I hate neighbors that ***** about your shop size, I have people drive by my shop in the back and its mostly old people trying to snoop to see what I am doing in there, man that really pisses me off. My father in law wanted to build a garage in his backyard, and he lives in one of those housing additions and the neighbors found out, and they threw a fit. They told my father in law he clouldnt build anything higher than his fence, I was like, are u kidding me? Man, anyway, thanks for the answers, sweet shop.
JMURiz said:
NEVER!!!
JMURiz said:
The attached garage is nothing fancy. Here is a recent shot. It's like 20 something by 20 something - typical attached garage size, but a high ceiling of around 12'-6" (maybe enough for a 4 post??...hmmm). I've just finally got it cleaned out enough to pull in my daily driver.
Down Under Bloke
Well-known member
bmwpower said:NEVER!!!
The attached garage is nothing fancy. Here is a recent shot. It's like 20 something by 20 something - typical attached garage size, but a high ceiling of around 12'-6" (maybe enough for a 4 post??...hmmm). I've just finally got it cleaned out enough to pull in my daily driver.
I can see a whole new thread in here.
snorvet
Well-known member
bmwpower said:
BMW - give us a little preview. what are you going to do with the floor?
ron in sc
Well-known member
With your ceiling being a little over 14' were you able to have a room for storage above? I'm running into a problem with putting a room over part of the garage.
I had hoped to have only 1/2 of the garage have a 14' ceiling so the other side could have a storage room above but it's starting to look like I'm going to have to have entire interior with a 14' ceiling. To get a room above I would exceed permisable height regulations.
I had hoped to have only 1/2 of the garage have a 14' ceiling so the other side could have a storage room above but it's starting to look like I'm going to have to have entire interior with a 14' ceiling. To get a room above I would exceed permisable height regulations.
snorvet said:
No clue... maybe ArmorSeal, maybe something else. My big problem on this floor is that I don't think there is a vapor barrier under the slab. Oversight by me since I wasn't there when they poured the floor.
ron in sc said:
The trusses weren't engineered for maximum storage or a room. I chose not to have a room above due to maximum height restrictions and to avoid questions from the township that it might be livable space. My HVAC eats up 80% of the floor space that is up there, leaving very little storage anyway. Plus, without a set of stairs (which eats up floor space), I'd have to go with external stairs, which I didn't want to do. Climbing a ladder is what I have to do to get to the attic.
ron in sc
Well-known member
It looks like I'm in the same type of situation. We have all kinds of rules to deal with including those that deal with wetlands since we live off a river and have some mashland behind our house.
Do you use any of the wall space for storage, specifically I was wondering about the space high up. Like have you installed any cabinets or anything else up there?
ron in sc said:
We have to deal with wetland here too, plus many restrictions due to Wharton State Forrest (the biggest underground reservoir).
I thought about building a loft, but I really couldn't develop any ideas. If you have some, let me know.
ron in sc
Well-known member
ron in sc said:
That would work. I've thought about those, too, but never looked into them any further.
The only downside would be loss of light to the lower level, but I guess you could throw some lights under it.
I'm going to guess those are pretty pricey, though. Is that from Global Industrial?
tubeman said:
Here's Global Industrial's offerings:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs...tegoryKey=1808&REQ_SUB_CAT=Mezzanine&index=32
ron in sc
Well-known member
L.K. Goodwin Company, http://www.lkgoodwin.com/more_info/masterstep_alumastep_ladders/masterstep_alumastep_ladder.shtml
I'm working with April over there and she is in the process of getting me a proposal together. They can pretty much make whatever you want.
The issue as I see it is where do you put the stairs without taking up tons of space. Of course I could have a lift for about $30K but that's obviously not going to work.
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ron in sc
Well-known member
I'm meeting with the contractor tomorrow. We are going to try to put up the largest garage allowed by "rules". I think it's only about 24 x 26.
useless
Member
Well I'm coming in here late but you have a remarkable garage. I on the other hand am striving to get mine to that point. I want to do the floors next, when time and money allow. I also want to install a boiler/tank waterheater that can keep up to heating my entire building. Currently my 40 gallon water heater is not enough. As for a lift, I messed up and didn't but in voids where the Pex runs and and deathly scare of drilling. I had planned on one but I'm not sure how much use it would get. I sure do like your setup, keep us all up to date.
ron in sc
Well-known member
Bmwpower,
Approximately how far into your garage are the center of your posts for your lift located?
Approximately how far into your garage are the center of your posts for your lift located?