whateg01
Well-known member
Engine hoist?
Engine hoist?
Unbolt the upper half from the base and lift it off first. Separate it where a riser would go. That keeps the weight down and makes it easier to move. A pallet jack makes moving it easier once it's on the ground. Without a pallet jack, the rollers work as cam suggested. If you have to go that route, it's a lot easier with two people.I do have a 2 ton engine hoist, so this might work. Thanks
Congrats scott, you got the cheap part handled for now![]()
As for moving it go rent a drop deck trailer and got some 1/2” dia solid steel rod. Like four pieces 3ft long and a decent length prybar so you can tip it up to slide the rods under and you won’t have any trouble moving that thing.
picked it up and set it in my shop.
Look at Sunbelt rentals. They are who I have used in the past for a drop-tilt trailer. Bonus is if you rent on Fri, it isn't due back until Mon.
sorry to be out of touch - had to pick up my mill and stuff from auction yard yesterday. I had to remove all weight from the mill (as you can see, stripped bare) as my crane capacity in shop is one just under 1,000 lbs. and one a fair bit over. Will flip a spreader bar over and put one crane on each end. The mills (mine and yours - both are Cheng Ki) should have a 5/8 lifting lug hole (tapped 3/4UNC) on top of the slide. Your fork lift and beam is a really good solution for lifting. I had to start with bottom lift as that is how auction handles (and usually damages) everything. I have an old trailer frame in the yard that used to have 2 x 7k axles for handling gensets. Front axle long ago gone but perfect for being able to put load on from back end with forklift and should be low enough to get under my 10' hooks less spreader bar. If not will rent forklift from lumber yard in town.I do have a 2 ton engine hoist, so this might work. Thanks
I know all us diy types want to save a buck. Call a rigger and have them set it were you want. Couple hours work for them and usually less effort and time. My $.02
Just for reference mine came in at 1050 Kg (2300 lbs). Now have to put it in place before I have to use space to scatter tractor engine.Good idea. I just requested a quote from a local machinery moving company.
Just talked to Sunbelt Rentals, 10k drop deck trailer $125.00 a day. Pick it up Friday afternoon and return it Monday morning, only a one day charge! That is going to work out great for my upcoming move of my mill and forklift!
Sheeyit, that mill isn’t dirty - you can see the color of the paint!
That weight should be a fairly easy move. As someone else said, rent a lift deck trailer and get a bunch of 1” pipe. Oh and some decent straps. A machinery jack is a very handy bit of kit too.
Unless you’re swamped with riggers competing for business, even a local move will be $500+. Just getting a mill loaded on your trailer at an auction is an easy couple of hundred
-Just work slowly when tilting the machine and watch out for the tipping point. If you only raise it 1-2 inches to get pipes under it you'll be fine. Use short scraps of 2x4 as a fulcrum for the pry bars when lifting for the pipes. The mill rolls fairly easy on the pipes so I don't know if you really need to take the head off. Flip the head, retract the ram, block of wood between the head and table. Having a buddy there will help keep an eye on things. Good luck.I'll use steel pipe or rods to move the mill around and big prybars to get it up on the rolling stock. I'll have the engine hoist available, but hopefully I won't need it.
Thanks
Did they specify the required truck size is needed? Around here they want 3/4 ton or larger for a drop deck trailerJust talked to Sunbelt Rentals, 10k drop deck trailer $125.00 a day. Pick it up Friday afternoon and return it Monday morning, only a one day charge! That is going to work out great for my upcoming move of my mill and forklift!
You have exactly the same base casting as I have, with a big notch front and center (can't remember if repeated at back, will look tomorrow). Notches make it easy to lift with a really big pry bar. If rolling on pipe or round bar, see if you can move only fore and aft to avoid rolling into the big notch. If you are going to lift with 2 ton engine hoist (as I might do) you will need to slide the dovetail boom forward to move the lift lug hole over center of gravity. You will also need a 5/8 eye nut and bit of 3/4 UNC threaded rod in hole to attach (or use eye bolt).If the machinery moving business quote is more than I want to spend, I plan to go that same route with the drop deck trailer. I'll use steel pipe or rods to move the mill around and big prybars to get it up on the rolling stock. I'll have the engine hoist available, but hopefully I won't need it.
Thanks
For sure 6’ pry bars should work, you don’t need to get it very high and it’s not that heavy. I’ve found lifting machine tools with hoists much sketchier. They always seem to have a very different center of gravity than what you expect and move in weird ways when liftedI've got plenty of straps.
I have a few 6' pry bars; I think that should be sufficient to get it 1" or so off the ground to get some 1" pipe under it. If not, the engine hoist should be sufficient. The owner has a skid steer available, too, and I do have some 6x6 oak, so that should work as well.
I'm always up for an excuse to get a new tool, but I'm not ready to drop $300 on a decent toe jack if I don't have to.
Still waiting on a quote from the rigger.
Thanks
Scott
This is why I was specific suggesting solid 1/2” bar.For sure 6’ pry bars should work, you don’t need to get it very high and it’s not that heavy. I’ve found lifting machine tools with hoists much sketchier. They always seem to have a very different center of gravity than what you expect and move in weird ways when lifted
You have exactly the same base casting as I have, with a big notch front and center (can't remember if repeated at back, will look tomorrow). Notches make it easy to lift with a really big pry bar. If rolling on pipe or round bar, see if you can move only fore and aft to avoid rolling into the big notch. If you are going to lift with 2 ton engine hoist (as I might do) you will need to slide the dovetail boom forward to move the lift lug hole over center of gravity. You will also need a 5/8 eye nut and bit of 3/4 UNC threaded rod in hole to attach (or use eye bolt).
This is why I was specific suggesting solid 1/2” bar.
First off you’ll be blown away how easy it is with just one bar 1/4 of the under the base to push it by hand scott. Just before you reach the fulcrum point stick another bar under the front and just keep right on moving swapping bars keeping 3 in play under the machine.
Oh a larger diameter pipe works but let me tell you it’s amazing how much that additional 1/2” or more translates into tilt 6ft in the air when you go past the fulcrum point and it tilts the other direction …..it’ll give you a pucker moment you won’t forget for a while.
Did they specify the required truck size is needed? Around here they want 3/4 ton or larger for a drop deck trailer
These things are quite top heavy, so another reason to put the lifting lug in place, add 2 shackles and connect 4 x 2" ratchet straps up to for best stability. And of course drive like you have a load of wine glasses loose on the deck.Towing capacity on my 2020 Yukon is 8,100 lbs; that should be sufficient. If not, I can get the F350 diesel dually.


As far as the chip shield plates, if they are similar to a BP, since I have mine apart here are a couple pics how they go, for your pondering pleasure.
They only sit there and are kept in place and shifted forward and backward by the feednut yoke. The top plate has two indentions (green arrows) that drag the bottom plate with it. I will take detailed measurements if you need to order replacements in the future, to see if BP plates will work.
I can't see how to repair that mess without taking the table off, which is very straightforward and you should do it anyway. Good winter project!
Congratulations btw!
the tilt angle of a rollback is WAY too much for a turret mill to remain standing up safely.Just call a tow company with a tilt bed. Nothing to it.
While it's good to plan things out, let's not make a mountain out of a mole hill..... ;-)
There are plenty of details on the internet for moving a Bridgeport type mill. They really are not that heavy or hard to move. Lots of good details posted on this thread already and I hesitated to dump more info..... but....I can't contain myself... lol
I'll leave this thread of mine for your reading entertainment:
Transporting a Bridgeport Mill
Here's the story of how I got my bridgeport mill home. I found this great deal on craigslist in January that I could not pass up. I was able to negotiate him down and made a deal that evening. The kicker was, I only have my little BMW 325 IS and a 4x8 trailer. I really didn't want to pay the...www.garagejournal.com
BTW, find yourself a small forklift... a Clark or something similar to what 86 has.
Pending how much **** youneed to remove from the dozer, the forklift will be even more valuable than the mill....
Of course, if you get a forklift, you may need to work on a cylinder....
Clark Forklift Triple stage Mast Cylinder Seal kit Install
I thought I would start a new thread that details how I did the seal kit on my Clark forklift a few years ago. It was a bit of an intense project to want to get into, but it wasn't too bad once I was set up and going.... Here's the kit and the forklift... It was leaking from the seal around...www.garagejournal.com
No it's not. The angle is adjustable.the tilt angle of a rollback is WAY too much for a turret mill to remain standing up safely.