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Bought Bridgeport Clone - Now Getting it Set Up for Basic Machining

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LXCam

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Congrats scott, you got the cheap part handled for now 😂

As for moving it go rent a drop deck trailer and got some 1/2” dia solid steel rod. Like four pieces 3ft long and a decent length prybar so you can tip it up to slide the rods under and you won’t have any trouble moving that thing.
 

whateg01

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I do have a 2 ton engine hoist, so this might work. Thanks
Unbolt the upper half from the base and lift it off first. Separate it where a riser would go. That keeps the weight down and makes it easier to move. A pallet jack makes moving it easier once it's on the ground. Without a pallet jack, the rollers work as cam suggested. If you have to go that route, it's a lot easier with two people.
 
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bulletpruf

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Congrats scott, you got the cheap part handled for now 😂

You're not kidding. I need a VFD or phase converter, a vise, a chuck, collets, and a bunch of other stuff...


As for moving it go rent a drop deck trailer and got some 1/2” dia solid steel rod. Like four pieces 3ft long and a decent length prybar so you can tip it up to slide the rods under and you won’t have any trouble moving that thing.

I'm not seeing any drop deck trailers for rent locally.
 

whateg01

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I'm using a cheap vfd off eBay. I bought a Fuji electric for the lathe for the braking, but the mill has a brake so I just need it to spin the motor. I use both speeds on the motor and the variable freq on the vfd to control spindle speed.
 

LXCam

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Your hoist ain’t gonna handle the entire weight without a little sketchiness. But you could pull the turret/ram/head and do it in two lifts without a problem.
 

SilverJimmy

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My friend that helped me get my Ex-Cell-O mill moves mills all the time. He moved mine with my forklift and a 4x6 piece of oak timber. Ran the head all the way back and moved the table all the way back and down, 8B01D2C2-BA41-4713-927B-23395CFDC8A2.jpegpicked it up and set it in my shop.
9CB0D7CC-63F3-4DA5-8D8B-D5961F82F34F.jpeg
Once in the shop it was easy to move it into position with a couple large prybars. Cool mill, you’re going to have fun!
 
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bulletpruf

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gorilla

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I've used a tow truck to unload machinery often. It was much cheaper than a crane service. If you rent a forklift DO NOT PICK IT UP UNDER THE BASE!!! pick it up under the dovetail.
 

rvieceli

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@bulletpruf It appears that some of the Sunbelt rental locations carry those lift deck trailers. The ones where the bed drops to ground level and raises back up.

Here are some in San Antonio:


Ron
 

cannuck

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I do have a 2 ton engine hoist, so this might work. Thanks
sorry to be out of touch - had to pick up my mill and stuff from auction yard yesterday. I had to remove all weight from the mill (as you can see, stripped bare) as my crane capacity in shop is one just under 1,000 lbs. and one a fair bit over. Will flip a spreader bar over and put one crane on each end. The mills (mine and yours - both are Cheng Ki) should have a 5/8 lifting lug hole (tapped 3/4UNC) on top of the slide. Your fork lift and beam is a really good solution for lifting. I had to start with bottom lift as that is how auction handles (and usually damages) everything. I have an old trailer frame in the yard that used to have 2 x 7k axles for handling gensets. Front axle long ago gone but perfect for being able to put load on from back end with forklift and should be low enough to get under my 10' hooks less spreader bar. If not will rent forklift from lumber yard in town.

The snow blower is a wild card. Nobody bid on it and it was on an ancient (and 10x nicer than our 10 YO) Cub Cadet, so uses bottom belt pulley drive. Will build mounts and controls to use on ours since its only job right now is to pull water trailer around in summer. Cost a mighty big $36 plus fees and as you can see seldom if ever been used at all.

From what I learned from the importer our milling machines from same company that has been doing BP knockoffs for a half century or so in Taiwan - and still in business and selling through several brand names today. Parts guy in YED sent out an e-mail to try to get more info - will let you know what he gets back.

Will weigh the bare mill this morning (needed to get new key cut from lock cylinder of mobile crane as it was set for making spares but got lost in doing so) then will figure out how to park it in shop. My dovetail mill drill we placed with engine hoist, but have to go to buddy's farm this morning to see if it has capacity. Mill SHOULD weigh 2,200 lbs., but I am deep into the "seeing is believing" with weights for lifting (consequence of building cranes).
 

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bulletpruf

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I know all us diy types want to save a buck. Call a rigger and have them set it were you want. Couple hours work for them and usually less effort and time. My $.02

Good idea. I just requested a quote from a local machinery moving company.
 
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bulletpruf

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Just talked to Sunbelt Rentals, 10k drop deck trailer $125.00 a day. Pick it up Friday afternoon and return it Monday morning, only a one day charge! That is going to work out great for my upcoming move of my mill and forklift!

If the machinery moving business quote is more than I want to spend, I plan to go that same route with the drop deck trailer. I'll use steel pipe or rods to move the mill around and big prybars to get it up on the rolling stock. I'll have the engine hoist available, but hopefully I won't need it.

Thanks
 

mattthemuppet

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Sheeyit, that mill isn’t dirty - you can see the color of the paint!

That weight should be a fairly easy move. As someone else said, rent a lift deck trailer and get a bunch of 1” pipe. Oh and some decent straps. A machinery jack is a very handy bit of kit too.

Unless you’re swamped with riggers competing for business, even a local move will be $500+. Just getting a mill loaded on your trailer at an auction is an easy couple of hundred
 
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bulletpruf

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Sheeyit, that mill isn’t dirty - you can see the color of the paint!

That weight should be a fairly easy move. As someone else said, rent a lift deck trailer and get a bunch of 1” pipe. Oh and some decent straps. A machinery jack is a very handy bit of kit too.

Unless you’re swamped with riggers competing for business, even a local move will be $500+. Just getting a mill loaded on your trailer at an auction is an easy couple of hundred

I've got plenty of straps.

I have a few 6' pry bars; I think that should be sufficient to get it 1" or so off the ground to get some 1" pipe under it. If not, the engine hoist should be sufficient. The owner has a skid steer available, too, and I do have some 6x6 oak, so that should work as well.

I'm always up for an excuse to get a new tool, but I'm not ready to drop $300 on a decent toe jack if I don't have to.

Still waiting on a quote from the rigger.

Thanks

Scott
 

RoninB4

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I'll use steel pipe or rods to move the mill around and big prybars to get it up on the rolling stock. I'll have the engine hoist available, but hopefully I won't need it.

Thanks
-Just work slowly when tilting the machine and watch out for the tipping point. If you only raise it 1-2 inches to get pipes under it you'll be fine. Use short scraps of 2x4 as a fulcrum for the pry bars when lifting for the pipes. The mill rolls fairly easy on the pipes so I don't know if you really need to take the head off. Flip the head, retract the ram, block of wood between the head and table. Having a buddy there will help keep an eye on things. Good luck.
 

tool_scrounge

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Just talked to Sunbelt Rentals, 10k drop deck trailer $125.00 a day. Pick it up Friday afternoon and return it Monday morning, only a one day charge! That is going to work out great for my upcoming move of my mill and forklift!
Did they specify the required truck size is needed? Around here they want 3/4 ton or larger for a drop deck trailer
 

cannuck

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If the machinery moving business quote is more than I want to spend, I plan to go that same route with the drop deck trailer. I'll use steel pipe or rods to move the mill around and big prybars to get it up on the rolling stock. I'll have the engine hoist available, but hopefully I won't need it.

Thanks
You have exactly the same base casting as I have, with a big notch front and center (can't remember if repeated at back, will look tomorrow). Notches make it easy to lift with a really big pry bar. If rolling on pipe or round bar, see if you can move only fore and aft to avoid rolling into the big notch. If you are going to lift with 2 ton engine hoist (as I might do) you will need to slide the dovetail boom forward to move the lift lug hole over center of gravity. You will also need a 5/8 eye nut and bit of 3/4 UNC threaded rod in hole to attach (or use eye bolt).
 

mattthemuppet

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I've got plenty of straps.

I have a few 6' pry bars; I think that should be sufficient to get it 1" or so off the ground to get some 1" pipe under it. If not, the engine hoist should be sufficient. The owner has a skid steer available, too, and I do have some 6x6 oak, so that should work as well.

I'm always up for an excuse to get a new tool, but I'm not ready to drop $300 on a decent toe jack if I don't have to.

Still waiting on a quote from the rigger.

Thanks

Scott
For sure 6’ pry bars should work, you don’t need to get it very high and it’s not that heavy. I’ve found lifting machine tools with hoists much sketchier. They always seem to have a very different center of gravity than what you expect and move in weird ways when lifted
 

LXCam

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For sure 6’ pry bars should work, you don’t need to get it very high and it’s not that heavy. I’ve found lifting machine tools with hoists much sketchier. They always seem to have a very different center of gravity than what you expect and move in weird ways when lifted
This is why I was specific suggesting solid 1/2” bar.

First off you’ll be blown away how easy it is with just one bar 1/4 of the under the base to push it by hand scott. Just before you reach the fulcrum point stick another bar under the front and just keep right on moving swapping bars keeping 3 in play under the machine.

Oh a larger diameter pipe works but let me tell you it’s amazing how much that additional 1/2” or more translates into tilt 6ft in the air when you go past the fulcrum point and it tilts the other direction …..it’ll give you a pucker moment you won’t forget for a while.
 

Cruzan80

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Sorry, was out of touch for a bit. Yes, those are right (I have rented with an F150 before, told them what I was doing over the phone and they were ok with it). I think they just want to make sure you don't load up to the max if your vehicle can't handle it.

Regarding moving, can't offer much help, as a buddy has toe jacks and machine skates I borrow. Makes moving anything pretty easy.
 
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bulletpruf

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You have exactly the same base casting as I have, with a big notch front and center (can't remember if repeated at back, will look tomorrow). Notches make it easy to lift with a really big pry bar. If rolling on pipe or round bar, see if you can move only fore and aft to avoid rolling into the big notch. If you are going to lift with 2 ton engine hoist (as I might do) you will need to slide the dovetail boom forward to move the lift lug hole over center of gravity. You will also need a 5/8 eye nut and bit of 3/4 UNC threaded rod in hole to attach (or use eye bolt).

Yep, I have big notches in the base front and rear, so it will be much easier to roll in that direction so I don't get caught in the notches.

Thanks
 
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bulletpruf

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This is why I was specific suggesting solid 1/2” bar.

First off you’ll be blown away how easy it is with just one bar 1/4 of the under the base to push it by hand scott. Just before you reach the fulcrum point stick another bar under the front and just keep right on moving swapping bars keeping 3 in play under the machine.

Oh a larger diameter pipe works but let me tell you it’s amazing how much that additional 1/2” or more translates into tilt 6ft in the air when you go past the fulcrum point and it tilts the other direction …..it’ll give you a pucker moment you won’t forget for a while.

Thanks for the input. I'll see about sourcing some solid 1/2" bar. Looks like they sell it at Home Depot and/or Lowes.
 

cannuck

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Towing capacity on my 2020 Yukon is 8,100 lbs; that should be sufficient. If not, I can get the F350 diesel dually.
These things are quite top heavy, so another reason to put the lifting lug in place, add 2 shackles and connect 4 x 2" ratchet straps up to for best stability. And of course drive like you have a load of wine glasses loose on the deck.
 

LXCam

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You won’t have any issue with your tow rig. I rented a lift deck recently to move our manlift and didn’t catch any grief out the yard. It left empty and got returned empty.

Now towing 5500lbs with a 42.5HP v6 halfton is a whole nother story…but I digress 😂
 

alfadan

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As far as the chip shield plates, if they are similar to a BP, since I have mine apart here are a couple pics how they go, for your pondering pleasure.

They only sit there and are kept in place and shifted forward and backward by the feednut yoke. The top plate has two indentions (green arrows) that drag the bottom plate with it. I will take detailed measurements if you need to order replacements in the future, to see if BP plates will work.

I can't see how to repair that mess without taking the table off, which is very straightforward and you should do it anyway. Good winter project!

Congratulations btw! 20240904_211515.jpg20240904_211540.jpg
 
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bimmer1980

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While it's good to plan things out, let's not make a mountain out of a mole hill..... ;-)

There are plenty of details on the internet for moving a Bridgeport type mill. They really are not that heavy or hard to move. Lots of good details posted on this thread already and I hesitated to dump more info..... but....I can't contain myself... lol

I'll leave this thread of mine for your reading entertainment:

BTW, find yourself a small forklift... a Clark or something similar to what 86 has.

Pending how much **** youneed to remove from the dozer, the forklift will be even more valuable than the mill....
Of course, if you get a forklift, you may need to work on a cylinder....
 
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DocsMachine

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You guys realize how much you ****, right? :)

You get to pick and choose. "Oh, this one's a little too rusty", or, "this one doesn't have enough tooling", or "I don't like the color this one's painted".

Meanwhile, I gotta buy this, this, and this, or damn well do without. :)

I only have one or two machines in the entire shop that I didn't have to heavily repair or outright rebuild from junk- because that's all that's available.

You guys can look at fifty machines and pick the best of the lot. You make me sick. :)

Doc.
 
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bulletpruf

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As far as the chip shield plates, if they are similar to a BP, since I have mine apart here are a couple pics how they go, for your pondering pleasure.

They only sit there and are kept in place and shifted forward and backward by the feednut yoke. The top plate has two indentions (green arrows) that drag the bottom plate with it. I will take detailed measurements if you need to order replacements in the future, to see if BP plates will work.

I can't see how to repair that mess without taking the table off, which is very straightforward and you should do it anyway. Good winter project!

Congratulations btw!

Thanks for the pictures; that's very helpful! Measurements would be much appreciated!!!

Scott
 
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bulletpruf

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While it's good to plan things out, let's not make a mountain out of a mole hill..... ;-)

Well, that's what we do here, isn't it? Admire the problem for a while, overanalyze, and look for excuses to buy even more tools?

There are plenty of details on the internet for moving a Bridgeport type mill. They really are not that heavy or hard to move. Lots of good details posted on this thread already and I hesitated to dump more info..... but....I can't contain myself... lol

I'll leave this thread of mine for your reading entertainment:

Moving a mill with a BMW 325 is classic! Enjoyed reading about how you managed that. Now, if you haven't already, go get yourself a crew cab diesel dually!

BTW, find yourself a small forklift... a Clark or something similar to what 86 has.

Pending how much **** youneed to remove from the dozer, the forklift will be even more valuable than the mill....
Of course, if you get a forklift, you may need to work on a cylinder....

I've been shopping for a forklift; drove Clarks and Hysters when I worked in a lumberyard and I really do need one for the dozer work. The only issue is space. It's crazy how quickly I filled up my 20' x 50' shop. Yes, the F350 and 977 take up a lot of space, but parts storage and tools take up a bunch, too.

The guy who rents the 20' x 50' space two doors down also needs a forklift; I was thinking of sharing one with him as long as he kept it in his space, but I can see that causing problems.

Thanks
 
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