BP&B Hobby Shop
- Thread starter HD FLHX
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Ohmthis
Well-known member
HD, front end fab is tops! It's a very clean install. Are you planning on using the mounts on the cross member to build the engine mounts off of. This part of your build is really making me think twice about not wanting to use this front end. I've seen a few trucks set up this way. The one that I've seen with mustang bullitt wheels looked good. They other two (steel wheels) I didn't like at all. To each there own!!!
Thanks, I'm happy with how it turned out. I went the easy way & bought a motor mount kit from Speedway Motors so the mounts on the K frame won't be utilized. In fact I may cut them down just to clean things up. I've been watching craigslist for a set of take off wheels from a 2015 Mustang. They are 18x8.5 and would fit color wise with what I have planned for this truck which is a green\grey two tone.
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Ohmthis
Well-known member
Oohhhhh! Those will look good. Do you think that 18" wheels pushed that far to the corners might cause any interference? What green are you thinking? With your eye and skills, I'm sure it will be bad ***. I was thinking the same for the motor mounts. Only reason to use the factory would be if you are using a mod motor to start. Thanks for posting
Finished up the IFS swap this afternoon. I made the rear mounting brackets and drilled the holes for the sway bar brackets.
First I used a piece of 1/4 inch plate to make mounts for the control arm bushings.
Next I had a piece of 2"x4" .187 wall tube I cut length wise on opposing corners to get an L shaped piece. Once that was welded onto the bushing mount plate I added a piece of 3/8" plate to the bottom to fill the gap so it sits tight up against the frame,
Everything bolted up. I will blow it all back apart and clean it up and paint it after the truck is done with mock up.
For those wondering how much drop you can expect with this swap. Measurement before & after at the same spot on the front of the frame
Some additional parts that showed up this week were a set of PowerStop 12" drilled & slotted rotors and corresponding brake pads. Still waiting on CompCams to ship a set of 1.6 roller rockers & push rods for the 289.
First I used a piece of 1/4 inch plate to make mounts for the control arm bushings.
Next I had a piece of 2"x4" .187 wall tube I cut length wise on opposing corners to get an L shaped piece. Once that was welded onto the bushing mount plate I added a piece of 3/8" plate to the bottom to fill the gap so it sits tight up against the frame,
Everything bolted up. I will blow it all back apart and clean it up and paint it after the truck is done with mock up.
For those wondering how much drop you can expect with this swap. Measurement before & after at the same spot on the front of the frame
Some additional parts that showed up this week were a set of PowerStop 12" drilled & slotted rotors and corresponding brake pads. Still waiting on CompCams to ship a set of 1.6 roller rockers & push rods for the 289.
Wanna Ride
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Nice job, can't wait to see more.
xtremek
Well-known member
It looks great. Quick question, why did you make the trailing arm bracket a bolt on and not weld it on?
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Very nice work!!!
Ohmthis
Well-known member
X, bolting that pad puts the clamping force across the whole area. Welding would only have it's ties to the edges. With a twisting motion the welds (even proper ones) have a good chance of torquing and cracking.
Found some time this week to get the motor & trans set in. I'm using a plastic engine & trans for mock up. They are expensive, but sure do make it easier. The motor mount kit was made for a non boxed frame so I had to redrill the bolt holes & will shorten the upper brackets that bolt to the motor.
Level side to side and pitched 3* down. Intake is at 0* where the carb mounts.
Trans mount
Some more parts that showed up this week. Brakes booster, master cylinder & adjustable proportioning valve
12 circuit harness from Speedway Motors. I used this harness on my '50 F3. Its a nice harness for less than $150 bucks
1.6 Roller Rockers & push rods from Comp Cams
Level side to side and pitched 3* down. Intake is at 0* where the carb mounts.
Trans mount
Some more parts that showed up this week. Brakes booster, master cylinder & adjustable proportioning valve
12 circuit harness from Speedway Motors. I used this harness on my '50 F3. Its a nice harness for less than $150 bucks
1.6 Roller Rockers & push rods from Comp Cams
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Have you moched up your radiator yet? Not sure if that is the fan you plan to run, but curious how close it is the the radiator. I like those mounts they are on my idea list. Is that a 302 or 351? I know the deck is taller and wider with the 351. Great job!!!
It is a 289/302 P-Ayr plastic mock up block & trans. It makes life so much easier
I will most likely run an electric fan. I threw that one on along with a 1.25" spacer just for reference on the placement of the motor. I wanted to leave enough room just in case I decide to run a mechanical fan. 
Ohmthis
Well-known member
How much clearance do you have between the oil pan and the crossmember? I don't want a true measurement just a guesstimate. Is that also a mustang double hump pan? Love your build, thanks for posting it.
Wanna Ride
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As we've discussed before, it looks VERY good. But that was a swift kick in the... knowing it went to a damn dealer.
There is plenty of clearance between the pan & the crossmember, the sway bar kinda dictated what height the motor was set at, that and I wanted to keep everything tucked up & not have anything hanging below the frame rails. I believe the pan is intended for Mustang applications. It was a complete package (pan, pick-up tube, gasket & dip stick) from Ford Racing. Although the dip stick will not work with my motor since its an early block. I bought a universal dipstick that you have to weld a bung into the pan to get around that.
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With what they paid for it & shipping costs, at least they aren't going to get rich off of it. They have half a dozen or so Broncos in inventory, many of which were for sale when I started watching Bronco sales to get an idea what they were selling for 3 months ago. It appears mine maybe already sold.
Wanna Ride
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joe, I know I have said this before but that Bronco turned out fantastic. Great job.
Mike.
Mike.
The wheels & tires showed up today. 2015 Mustang take offs. They are 235/50/18's 8.5 inch wheel less than 40 miles on them.
Also started working on the rear c notch. I bought a pair of 2"x4" 90* bends from Art Morrison. Once in, I will box them in and add a couple crossmembers to tie everything together and for a place to mount the upper shock mounts to.
leveled frame and sitting on 6 jack stands. I have to give a shoutout to my concrete guy for doing such a good job pouring a level floor makes things like this easy.
Also started working on the rear c notch. I bought a pair of 2"x4" 90* bends from Art Morrison. Once in, I will box them in and add a couple crossmembers to tie everything together and for a place to mount the upper shock mounts to.
leveled frame and sitting on 6 jack stands. I have to give a shoutout to my concrete guy for doing such a good job pouring a level floor
makes things like this easy.
Wanna Ride
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Coming along very nice! Who made the the rear wheel adapters?
larry4406
Well-known member
What is the purpose of the Art Morrison 90 degree bends? More clearance for dropping rear axle?
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Joe, looks really nice! You've got me leaning towards the crown Vic front. What is your plan for the bed where the notches are. Everything I've looked at when lowering these trucks, shackles or shock mounts or something interferes with the bed. Great fab work also. This truck will look like that chassis was factory built when you are done.
Not sure who made them, I bought them off ebay
Yes, the axle has been flipped and is now on top of the leaf springs instead of under them, so you need more room for suspension travel. It will also give me plenty of room to play with the final ride height.
Thanks, not exactly sure how I'm going to deal with the bed floor interference yet, but have an idea. Some guys raise the entire floor or build a hump between the wheel wells. I'm hoping to widen the wheel wells inward to cover them, basically tub the bed. I need to put a tape measure to it and see if it will work out.
Worked on the rear c notches yesterday afternoon. Didn't take many pics, but here are a few of the ones I did take. I fully boxed everything with 3/16ths.
I hope to get the right side finished up and the cross braces in today. Just a note the wheel adapters are only on there for mock up purposes. I'm trying to find an '02 or older Crown Vic Police Interceptor 8.8 rearend with a locker. just haven't had any luck finding one that doesn't have 200K miles on it yet.
I hope to get the right side finished up and the cross braces in today. Just a note the wheel adapters are only on there for mock up purposes. I'm trying to find an '02 or older Crown Vic Police Interceptor 8.8 rearend with a locker. just haven't had any luck finding one that doesn't have 200K miles on it yet.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Joe, great job on the rear fab work!
Leakie
Active member
Great idea for jack stands. Are they just screwed together, glued or bolted. Thanks
Started working on fitting up the inner fenders around the crown vic k frame. I initially just notched them enough to mount them. Once back in place I decided to make some panels & smooth everything out.
I established where I wanted the bottom to be then welded a 3/8ths rod across the opening to give me something to attach my sheet metal to.
Made a template, transferred that to a piece of 18ga. The top third or so I ran through my slip roll to give it some curve then used my english wheel to give some crown side to side.
I established where I wanted the bottom to be then welded a 3/8ths rod across the opening to give me something to attach my sheet metal to.
Made a template, transferred that to a piece of 18ga. The top third or so I ran through my slip roll to give it some curve then used my english wheel to give some crown side to side.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Very nice on the inner fender mod. I assume you took out enough to get to the shock, and anything else? Can you take a picture of what it looks like from the outside? I also noticed the brake master cylinder was moved. What did you go with?
The CV's use a strut that drops out of the bottom, so the only thing you need access to are the 3 nuts for the upper strut mount. I cut it back pretty much flush so there shouldn't be any clearance issues.
Speaking of struts the new ones showed up yesterday along with the Eaton 2 inch drop springs.
The master cylinder & booster are a pretty standard hot rod setup from Speedway Motors. The booster is a 7" diameter. The master cylinder has a 1 1/8th bore so it will support either disc/drum or disc/disc setup. I moved it over to where the clutch master cylinder was because I didn't want it hanging over the engine & blocking the view. The adjustable proportioning valve is also from Speedway Motors
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That's turning out great Joe.
I'm diggin' those tires/wheels on that thing with that stance. Great job on the C-notch.
Mike.
I'm diggin' those tires/wheels on that thing with that stance. Great job on the C-notch.
Mike.
Started working on getting the steering column mounted up. Since the original column would no longer work with a rack & pinion setup, I picked up a generic unpainted steel 30" tilt column. At some point the original column drop was modified. About 3/4ths of it was cut off to allow the column to be pushed forward for some extra room I'm guessing.
With the help of a fellow F100 owner on facebook I was able to get measurements off an unmolested column drop so I could remake mine. Started out with a piece of 16ga sheetmetal & a piece of 1/8th"x1" flatbar
Mounted to the dash & ready for a test fit of the column
With the help of a fellow F100 owner on facebook I was able to get measurements off an unmolested column drop so I could remake mine. Started out with a piece of 16ga sheetmetal & a piece of 1/8th"x1" flatbar
Mounted to the dash & ready for a test fit of the column
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Very nice!! Thanks for posting