BP&B Hobby Shop

[Wanna Ride]

Glad to see some progress on this. Really anxious to see this one, when you get it all done. One question: looks like the steering wheel's going to end up at a goofy angle, or is it just an illusion?

 

[gahrajmahal]

Do you know of any cars that have used the Grand Marquis front end swap?

With exception of the Grand Marquis,
Beat you to it.

 

[JonBoehman]

Loving this build! I have a 56 f100 I want to do all of this to as soon as I get my new shop built this spring.

 

[HD FLHX]

Do you know of any cars that have used the Grand Marquis front end swap?

With exception of the Grand Marquis,
Beat you to it.

They are all the same. Crown Vic, Grand Marquis & even the Lincoln TownCar use the exact same K-member.

 

[HD FLHX]

Glad to see some progress on this. Really anxious to see this one, when you get it all done. One question: looks like the steering wheel's going to end up at a goofy angle, or is it just an illusion?

It is a tilt column but seems alright to me while sitting in it.

 

[HD FLHX]

I went back to Indiana for Thanksgiving and to drop off some parts to my engine builder (aka my dad). He had just got my block back from the machine shop and is about to start building it.

 

[Ohmthis]

Looks good! You are moving pretty quickly on this build. When are you planning on having her done? Thanks for posting the build, its giving me tons of ideas and motivation. I didn't get as much done this summer and fall on my shop, so my project will have to wait

 

[C_F]

I just found this thread today (thanks to your post from today), and read it straight through from cover to cover. I was a little bummed when you sold your F3, but I know this current one will be equally as cool in the end.

Thanks so much for posting your progress on your projects, I'm looking forward to future updates!

 

[HD FLHX]

Looks good! You are moving pretty quickly on this build. When are you planning on having her done? Thanks for posting the build, its giving me tons of ideas and motivation. I didn't get as much done this summer and fall on my shop, so my project will have to wait

I don't want to jinx myself here, but I am hoping to have it done by late June in time to take to the Goodguys Heartland Nationals which is 4th of July weekend in Des Moines.

I just found this thread today (thanks to your post from today), and read it straight through from cover to cover. I was a little bummed when you sold your F3, but I know this current one will be equally as cool in the end.

Thanks so much for posting your progress on your projects, I'm looking forward to future updates!

Thanks for taking an interest. Unfortunately the F3 had to go to free up some funds & shop space for the F100.

 

[odjoe]

more please

 

[Ohmthis]

Joe, after going back and looking at the block I have to ask why didn't you go with a roller block? Price may have been a factor, but I believe besides an after market block the newer roller were superior to the older castings. Plus you have the option to run a roller or none roller cam without the higher cost of retrofit lifters. I can tell from your other projects and the quality work you do that you plan every detail on your builds so I had to ask. Anthony

 

[white6589]

I thought the 289's were better over the 5.0 roller blocks because the 289 castings were less prone to spitting?

And edit:
Always watching your builds HD FLHX, the F100 also looks like it'll be a good one. Don't forget the '64 Fairlane, I'll be watching for you to get back to her too.

 

[Wanna Ride]

It is a tilt column but seems alright to me while sitting in it.

Didn't realize that. And that picture angle looks a lot better, the first one was just deceiving I guess. Does the column tilt at the bottom of the cup? The whole project is really moving along well. My initial guess is you may very well be done in time for Goodguys, you're making good progress.

If you went to Indiana across 80, then you were within less than five miles from my house. Geez, isn't that such a boring drive?

 

[HD FLHX]

Joe, after going back and looking at the block I have to ask why didn't you go with a roller block? Price may have been a factor, but I believe besides an after market block the newer roller were superior to the older castings. Plus you have the option to run a roller or none roller cam without the higher cost of retrofit lifters. I can tell from your other projects and the quality work you do that you plan every detail on your builds so I had to ask. Anthony

I wish I had some big explanation for using that block , but in all reality it was because I had it and it was in really good shape. I had a feeling when I pulled the motor out of the Fairlane parts car it had never been apart. Once we opened it up I was proven right. All the bearings were std size with 64 date codes. The cylinders also std bore had little to no wear. The motor we're putting together is just going to be a good drive able cruiser that idles, runs cool and is reliable. I personally really don't get hung up on horsepower this or that..fit, finish, and stance are the most important things in my book.

Didn't realize that. And that picture angle looks a lot better, the first one was just deceiving I guess. Does the column tilt at the bottom of the cup? The whole project is really moving along well. My initial guess is you may very well be done in time for Goodguys, you're making good progress.

If you went to Indiana across 80, then you were within less than five miles from my house. Geez, isn't that such a boring drive?

Yeah it is a pretty boring drive, at least Illinois finally got with the rest of us & raised their speed limit to 70. At times I think making Goodguys won't be an issue, but other days I'm like man there is no way.

 

[HD FLHX]

Spent today finishing up the other inner fender (which I didn't take any pics of) but it matches the drivers side now and started fixing some rust in the bottom of the radiator support. Both sides are the same way, I was able to get one side knocked out.

 

[MP&C]

Looks good Joe!

 

[Capt Chrysler]

The Iowa Goodguys show is a nice one. We have been there for the last 3 years. Always enjoy it.

What's the track width on the CV vs the F100?

Thanks

Capt. Chrysler

 

[HD FLHX]

The Iowa Goodguys show is a nice one. We have been there for the last 3 years. Always enjoy it.

What's the track width on the CV vs the F100?

Thanks

Capt. Chrysler

I had saved this from another forum when I was doing a little research on the CV IFS swap. It compares the measurements of the CV IFS & 57-60 F100.

 

[bulletpruf]

Spent today finishing up the other inner fender (which I didn't take any pics of) but it matches the drivers side now and started fixing some rust in the bottom of the radiator support. Both sides are the same way, I was able to get one side knocked out.

Curious to hear how you shaped the metal for the repair patch. Please elaborate!

Scott

 

[HD FLHX]

Some more parts showed up today and part of that order was the steering shaft and joints. For anyone who is considering using a CV IFS here is the part number for the U-joint that will fit the crown vic rack & pinion It is a Borgeson joint & has one end that is 3/4 DD steering shaft and the other end fits the rack. I bought it from Summit Racing and the part number is BRG-014955 it was $76. I can confirm it does fit perfectly and the bolts right up.




Also finished up the rust repairs on the other side of the radiator support. I will admit I'm the worst about stopping and taking pics through out the process, but here is a few that I did take. This side was a lot worse so pretty much the whole bottom section was cut out and replaced



I started by sectioning in a flat piece of 18ga then made the new channel piece.




I made it using a sheet metal brake & my work bench. I bend it into a u shape first on the brake, unfortunately with the type of brake I have & the close proximity of the bend I couldn't do the last two bends in the brake so I used the old c-clamp/flat edge work bench brake



I done a pie cut on the slanted end and bent the tab down and welded it up. Clamped down & ready to weld



The finished product





The center channel had a couple pin holes in it, but was otherwise very solid so I elected to just lead up the holes instead of cutting a section out & replacing it.

 

[bulletpruf]

Thanks for the details, Joe.

Scott

 

[C_F]

Very nice metalworking skills!

 

[HD FLHX]

Spent some time yesterday afternoon media blasting the inner fenders and radiator support. For being 55 years old I think they cleaned up pretty well.

 

[bulletpruf]

Very nice indeed! What type of media do you use?

 

[HD FLHX]

Very nice indeed! What type of media do you use?

For chassis parts and things like the radiator support I use black blast. Its very aggressive, but does a nice job cleaning stuff up really fast.

 

[HD FLHX]

Starting to focus on fixing the collision damage and some of the rust in the cab next. Really the only major rust in the whole truck is the lower door post/front cab mount area.




New cab mounts and pieces to repair the step and rocker panel from the collision damage.



I prefer to cut most of the panel off leaving only the outer edges. Then go back with a spot weld cutter and drill out all the spot welds.






With the step cut out, I threw some old wheel & tires on it and rolled it outside so I could blast the outer third of the cab floor to see what all is going to need to be replaced.





Went ahead and blasted the passengers side too.



Small floor patch that will be redone

 

[nonhog]

Sorry if I missed it, how are you blasting in the shop? Or are you?
cover with plastic and have at it?

 

[bulletpruf]

nonhog - looks like he moves the truck outside to blast.

Joe - that's fairly aggressive media, right? Like Black Beauty (coal slag)? Results look great, but I've always been told to be careful with blasting sheet metal panels because you will warp them. And someone ruined a nice 66 Fairlane GT hood that I had - warped to he11 - by blasting it. Since you're a Ford guy, you probably know how hard it is to find one of those and how expensive they are. I was not happy.

Anyway, curious to hear more about how you blast sheet metal; I've got an old Alfa Romeo to strip and had planned to use DA sander in most places, but blast areas that I can't get to with the sander.

 

[HD FLHX]

Sorry if I missed it, how are you blasting in the shop? Or are you?
cover with plastic and have at it?

On big stuff I do it outside beside the shop. I live in the country so I don't have any close neighbors to worry about ******* off. On smaller stuff I have a decent sized blast cabinet I use

nonhog - looks like he moves the truck outside to blast.

Joe - that's fairly aggressive media, right? Like Black Beauty (coal slag)? Results look great, but I've always been told to be careful with blasting sheet metal panels because you will warp them. And someone ruined a nice 66 Fairlane GT hood that I had - warped to he11 - by blasting it. Since you're a Ford guy, you probably know how hard it is to find one of those and how expensive they are. I was not happy.

Anyway, curious to hear more about how you blast sheet metal; I've got an old Alfa Romeo to strip and had planned to use DA sander in most places, but blast areas that I can't get to with the sander.

Yeah black blast is very aggressive. Like I said I only use it on things like chassis parts or a floor that I don't have to worry about warping anything. I like to blast door jambs and floors, but tend to stay away from blasting exterior panels. I prefer to chemical strip them. You can kinda see it in this pic.



The jamb & floor is blasted, but I tried to stay away from the exterior part of the cab corner other than the very bottom which is going to have the cab corner replaced.

When I done the Nova it was entirely chemical stripped except for the engine compartment & front door post/cowl area which I media blasted. I use Aircraft paint remover from Kleen Strip.



[URL=http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/RedRider1028/media/1962%20Chevrolet%20Nova/aa2ee41c-6bf1-4fc7-aa57-6d1775ba0359_zpslpqjkxk6.jpg.html]

[/URL]

 

[Nor'Easter]

Just gave ya a follow Joe. Work looks great!

 

[tlmartin84]

What kind of 3 n 1 machine is that in the background?

Are all these your toys? Or doing them for someone else?

 

[C_F]

When I done the Nova it was entirely chemical stripped except for the engine compartment & front door post/cowl area which I media blasted. I use Aircraft paint remover from Kleen Strip.

I've used that same stuff a bunch of years ago. I recall it seemed to take quite a few applications to get it down to the metal, is that usual, or was I doing something wrong? I sure had to keep the area well ventilated!

 

[HD FLHX]

What kind of 3 n 1 machine is that in the background?

Are all these your toys? Or doing them for someone else?

Its a Baileigh 52" rated for 16ga. It does ok. Shear & slip roll work good. The finger brake has its limitations. The Nova is not mine. Everything thing else I've shown is or was mine. I've really cut back on doing work for other people. It took me over 5 yrs to complete my Bronco because I kept pushing it to the side to work on other peoples stuff.

 

[HD FLHX]

I've used that same stuff a bunch of years ago. I recall it seemed to take quite a few applications to get it down to the metal, is that usual, or was I doing something wrong? I sure had to keep the area well ventilated!

A lot of the time it really depends on the type of paint and/or how many times it has been painted. In my experience it doesn't do as well with old lacquer paint jobs. Patience is the key. Keep the panel well saturated and let it soak in. Once it starts to lift good I usually put another coat on and let it soak for at least 10 more minutes.

 

[wasfast]

Agree that the type of paint you're removing has a big impact on effectiveness. Don't bother with the lower end removers. The epoxy "aircraft" versions seem to be the strongest. Most use methylene chloride as the primary ingredient. I'm not Mr. Safety but you really don't want any of this on your skin. It burns something fierce. Water rinse stops the reaction.

Soaking time is important and also not letting it dry out. Some folks will cover it so it can't dry and more of the chemical outgassing stays in contact with the paint. Time matters. You can't just put it on and immediately scrape the paint off.

 

[dkroth]

I've really cut back on doing work for other people.

Note to self: cancel car transporter reservation to Iowa. Return suitcase of Benjamins to bank.



Great thread, Joe.

 

[HD FLHX]

Note to self: cancel car transporter reservation to Iowa. Return suitcase of Benjamins to bank.



Great thread, Joe.

Well there is always an exception....if its a really BIG suitcase I might be able to find some time

 

[HD FLHX]

Went on the search for a better drivers side door yesterday afternoon. I stopped by Doug's 4 Wheelers in Pella Iowa. He specializes old trucks. I came home with a straight pretty solid door for 150 bucks. 10x better than the one that came with the truck.



Some of the cool stuff I took pics of while walking the yard. There is a ton of Chevy & Dodge stuff also I just didn't find them picture worthy

 

[JC23]

What is that panel van? Dodge, IH, Stude?

 

[HD FLHX]

I believe it's a Dodge