Brake drum puller, anyone make one?

[signcrafter]

I saw a brake drum puller while doing some searching last night that I had never seen before. I saw the kastar one but otc also makes one. http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/KAS833-Kastar-833-Brake-Drum-and-Rotor-Puller.aspx and http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CGOGFS/?tag=atomicindus08-20. It's not something that I would use often but it looks like it might be pretty easy to make. I have a pretty big snap on puller and pressure screw that I don't really use much, similar to the one on the right of this board, http://www.gilesmossauction.com/snap on pullers.jpg.

My thought is to get a pice of square tubing the puller frame will fit in. Drill a hole in the middle for the pressure screw. Slide the puller in the tube and then thread the pressure screw in. Then make some type of puller arms. Maybe just some flat stock bent at the ends that will slide over the square tube? This is the one thing I'm not really sure about. If I just use flat stock will it be strong enough or will it just bend back when I try to pull a stuck hub? Or can heat them and quinch them after I bend them to heat treat them to make them stronger?

Here is a video of what I am going to try and make tonight.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/5OqYsyJ57cY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[sickboy motors inc.]

He seems to be "lightly" tapping that drum with a hammer. Not what I'm used to seeing. Please take pics of your home built.puller once its done

 

[markw365]

I've always been able to get them off with a 3lb sledge and pulling on the edge with one hand while smacking the face of the drum with the other. But that's me, it's all about the application of proper force. If he hits it any harder it will come off without the puller.

 

[maximus20895]

Yea, there really is no need if you have the proper technique and tricks

 

[signcrafter]

I don't have a lot if experience with drums but I have had a few that were very stubborn to get off with just a hammer. But that may have been my lack of technique.

 

[Hetman]

A useless tool just for having. Don't bother making one. Easier and faster with a hammer only.
Far too weak for any harder work, too.

 

[dttheliman]

OH and its a lot easier if you release the brake first !!!

 

[mvptrukin]

Don't give up on making a tool, I would like to see what you come up with! Although I am in agreement that in 98% of the brake drum jobs a BFH and a blue wrench works to release the rust bond between the drum and hub. Sometimes a puller is necessary, like if you have a wheel cylinder / return spring failure and the shoes are wedged in there! Even with a puller it requires more than a few taps like the NAPA video.

 

[rlitman]

OH and its a lot easier if you release the brake first !!!

LOL! Good one.

 

[jamesemery728]

These work pretty good also.

 

[u118224]

For difficult drums and rotors I just use a cheap HF 3 jaw puller, 8 inch I think. It works just fine.

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

Take your pick
Hammer
cutting wheel
blue wrench/torch
air chisel

 

[mvptrukin]

What's the model # on the HF puller and the jaws have an 8" reach and a wide spread? That would work on most old Ford /Lincoln drums which you need a long reach.

 

[u118224]

The HF 8 inch 3 jaw puller is #40970. $16.99

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Most stubborn drums are due to the brake shoe being worn into the drum surface; with the adjusting wheel at the max position. The best way to get these off is to cut off the brake shoe nail heads at the back side of the backing plate. Once removed, this will allow the brake shoes to fold outward when you pull on the drum; thus permitting the drum to be removed.

Just a little trick from an old timer for some of you newbies doing rear drum brakes.....

 

[mvptrukin]

Thanx u118224--that one might not have a wide enuff spread but the next time I go to HF I'll check it out.

 

[ndoran]

a good trick but does not work on some GM cars that use the big C spring to hold the shoes in place instead of the taditional pin, coil spring, and collet.

Somewhere on the thread for making your own tools someone shows how they extended the arms on a puller to allow them to remove drums.

 

[mvptrukin]

Tarheelgarage, I've used that trick b4 but usually if you can't back the adjusters off that's the first thing I do! If you live in an area that uses mag chloride on the roads during the winter it does weird stuff to brake parts.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Most stubborn drums are due to the brake shoe being worn into the drum surface; with the adjusting wheel at the max position. The best way to get these off is to cut off the brake shoe nail heads at the back side of the backing plate. Once removed, this will allow the brake shoes to fold outward when you pull on the drum; thus permitting the drum to be removed.

Just a little trick from an old timer for some of you newbies doing rear drum brakes.....

WHY? Simply run the adjuster back in. Yes, the adjuster could be frozen, but that is not the common problem if the car is in service.

My Pontiac Vibe had frozen drums and rotors, they were stuck on the hubs. The drums were threaded and I took two appropriately threaded bolts and used them to jack the drum off the hub, wished the rotors had threaded holes in them like the drums did.

Charles

 

[theoldwizard1]

Most stubborn drums are due to the brake shoe being worn into the drum surface; with the adjusting wheel at the max position. The best way to get these off is to cut off the brake shoe nail heads at the back side of the backing plate. Once removed, this will allow the brake shoes to fold outward when you pull on the drum; thus permitting the drum to be removed.

Just a little trick from an old timer for some of you newbies doing rear drum brakes.....

Good tip !

BFH and penetrating oil have always worked for me.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My Pontiac Vibe had frozen drums and rotors, they were stuck on the hubs. The drums [threaded hole on the face] and I took two appropriately threaded bolts and used them to jack the drum off the hub, wished the rotors had threaded holes in them like the drums did.

I have seen rotors with the same hole on the face.

 

[KinzeMech]

These work pretty good also.
[pic of air hammer bit I don't know how to include in a quote]

I did that a few weeks ago. For that, I earned the privilege of not only replacing my brakes, but also replacing the wheel bearing hubs which now had very tight rough spots. Doh!

Whether it's a hammer, or an air hammer, don't forget on the backside of that force are bearings, which tend not much to like heavy hammer blows.

Now I use a three jaw puller, along with gentle hammer taps.

 

[Hoyer Motorsports]

I've never had to use a puller on 1/2 ton truck or a car but 3/4 ton and 1 ton Ive used a puller with a 13" spread.
Other than cutting it off with the torch it was just about the only way. The drum was rusted to the hub. It came off hard the whole way too. Shocked to say the least. The guy used his truck to spread salt in the winter.
I say go ahead with your design but try and make it a 3 jaw version.
Hardly ever used that big puller, it weighs about 50 pounds but I'll bet you'll be the only guy on the block that has one. And that right there is something to be proud of!

 

[jkeyser14]

I have never had to use a puller. The cars I have worked on have all had at least one threaded hole somewhere on the drum. You take the correct size fastener and screw it in to push the drum off. Sometime a few good hits with a hammer is still required just to break loose some of the rust.

 

[signcrafter]

I did that a few weeks ago. For that, I earned the privilege of not only replacing my brakes, but also replacing the wheel bearing hubs which now had very tight rough spots. Doh!

Whether it's a hammer, or an air hammer, don't forget on the backside of that force are bearings, which tend not much to like heavy hammer blows.

Now I use a three jaw puller, along with gentle hammer taps.

This is one of the reason's for me wanting to build this. I don't like pounding away with a chance of damaging bearings. I thought this would be a helpful tool, just put some pressure on the drum and a few lite taps instead of wailing away on the drum with a sledge. I can make this from scrap so it doesn't cost anything. Just seems like it would be more "proffesional" than taking a sledge to the drum, and also easier.

The only square tube I have in the garage is just a litte to small for my puller to slide in. I guess I could just put the snap on puller under the square stock. I'll have to see what size flat stock I have to make the arms out of.

 

[JKady]

This is one of the reason's for me wanting to build this. I don't like pounding away with a chance of damaging bearings. I thought this would be a helpful tool, just put some pressure on the drum and a few lite taps instead of wailing away on the drum with a sledge. I can make this from scrap so it doesn't cost anything. Just seems like it would be more "proffesional" than taking a sledge to the drum, and also easier.

The only square tube I have in the garage is just a litte to small for my puller to slide in. I guess I could just put the snap on puller under the square stock. I'll have to see what size flat stock I have to make the arms out of.

Well, I don't know any professionals that don't use a hammer to dislodge stuck drums if putting bolts in the drum isn't an option. Anything that's sat near the ocean or been exposed to road salt is going to fight like hell to stay where it is. I had one car that beating in on the hub didn't even begin to budge the rotors. Was glad the boss-man sold new rotors cause I had to resort to putting the lug nuts back on partially and hammering on the back of the rotor with a sledge.

 

[osborn.ozzy]

WHY? Simply run the adjuster back in. Yes, the adjuster could be frozen, but that is not the common problem if the car is in service.

My Pontiac Vibe had frozen drums and rotors, they were stuck on the hubs. The drums were threaded and I took two appropriately threaded bolts and used them to jack the drum off the hub, wished the rotors had threaded holes in them like the drums did.

Charles

Some vehicles do not have a hole to Access the adjuster.

 

[greasemonkey44]

most ive ever needed on rotors was a hammer, and kroil
rears are another story; had to walk rotors off with prybars, sledge drums; pop ebrakes apart
if more people used their parking brake it wouldn't be as much of an issue

also guys watch out with putting bolts into stuck drums and rotors through the threaded holes; some times you ruin the rotor that way

 

[signcrafter]

most ive ever needed on rotors was a hammer, and kroil
rears are another story; had to walk rotors off with prybars, sledge drums; pop ebrakes apart
if more people used their parking brake it wouldn't be as much of an issue

also guys watch out with putting bolts into stuck drums and rotors through the threaded holes; some times you ruin the rotor that way

So do you think the tool would have helped in any of those situations?

 

[Toolhorder]

I work on Hondas at the dealer and they have 2 threaded holes on the drum and a flat hub behind that. Another tech years ago brazed two bolts into a "T" an gave them to guys in the shop. That's what I use. I turn it by hand and usually it will pop off the drum. The rust is usually around the lip of the hub so it's not too bad to get it off. I dislike hammering the drum. It makes brake dust go airborne and onto your clothes and if you miss you could damage lug nuts. I used to discourage that practice by novice techs when I was a team leader.

 

[greasemonkey44]

So do you think the tool would have helped in any of those situations?

probobly
ive been tempted to make one; and or buy something that would work
a straight stong pull plus a smack with a hammer could free most of the harder ones
ill try making one this weekend

 

[EvilWelder]

If the drums are frozen that bad they get the hot wrench, then we replace with new and good parts.

 

[KinzeMech]

That works, but again, like with a hammer, enough to be effective can be enough to damage nearby bearings.

I think a puller is a good idea, but I'm puzzled why to build one, and not just use a 3 jaw puller that you either already have, or can get from HF for very cheap, if needed. The self centering nature of the 3 jaw lets it use so much more force, more easily. It is just a tough option to beat.

 

[signcrafter]

That works, but again, like with a hammer, enough to be effective can be enough to damage nearby bearings.

I think a puller is a good idea, but I'm puzzled why to build one, and not just use a 3 jaw puller that you either already have, or can get from HF for very cheap, if needed. The self centering nature of the 3 jaw lets it use so much more force, more easily. It is just a tough option to beat.

I might even have a three jaw puller big enough in the puller drawer. Somewhere online while searching for the OTC and kastar drum pullers I read that a three jaw puller isn't recomended. Not sure why, I wouldn't think that the jaws would damage or bend the drum. My thoughts were to copy the two models out there specifically for brake drums. Since I have a nice heavy duty snap on yoke and pressure screw I figured some square stock to extend the puller and some flat stock for the puller arms and it would be almost free. The three jaw might work great, guess I figured that the two designs made by OTC and Kastar were tried and trued and figured they did some research and testing as to what design works best so they could charge 120-150 bucks for theirs.

And I guess the main reason for wanting to build my own is just because I like to build my own tools, even if it is just copying a design you can buy! I like to fab stuff up and when I can make a 120 dollar tool using what I have on hand I get pride and a usable tool.

I'm still goint to make something, even if some think it's useless. I've had some drums that I've had to go all out on with a small sledge. To me this can't be a good thing. Like others have mentioned slamming the drum with a sledge hammer or heating it up would be bad for the bearing I would think. Just seems to me IF this puller will put some pressure on the drum and let you give the drum a few taps with a hammer to shock the drum loose it would be well worth it.

 

[otis66]

I've been wrenching for over 30 years from High School till now. I've never needed to use a puller to remove a brake drum. I would try NAPA Auto. Also My Snap On dealer can get me anything. If it's made he can get it buy next week. Tooltopia also has one.
http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=drum+brake+puller

 

[signcrafter]

I've been wrenching for over 30 years from High School till now. I've never needed to use a puller to remove a brake drum. I would try NAPA Auto. Also My Snap On dealer can get me anything. If it's made he can get it buy next week. Tooltopia also has one.
http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=drum+brake+puller

Yes OTC and Kastar both offer them like I linked to in my first post. In my first post I stated I don't really "need" one of these. Just saw them and thought it would be pretty easy to make one for cheap. It may or may not be needed, like I said I don't have a lot of experience with drum brakes, but I have had some that took a bunch of hard hits from a mini sledge which can't be good for the bearing and I would think some pressure on the drum from this puller would offer some help in not having to beat on the drum so much on the stuck ones.

 

[KinzeMech]

I might even have a three jaw puller big enough in the puller drawer.


I'm still goint to make something, even if some think it's useless.

Go for it! If you have the time and inclination to do so, homemade tools are great. You'll even have the option to compare it's performance against a three jaw.

How abusive one can get with the hammer depends on the axle design. Front wheel drive cars, with hub/bearing assemblies, are easily damaged. Live axle rear wheel drive cars will generally tolerate moderate punishment by a sledge...*generally*

 

[signcrafter]

I had some time tonight so I dug through the metal pile and found some scraps that should work for this. I cut them to size and just need to bend the arms and weld them up. Then drill a hole through the square tube so the pressure screw can pass through it. I cut the square stock 18" so it should handle the bigger stuff fine.

 

[signcrafter]

Anyone know about heat treating? I'm worried that the arms aren't going to be strong enough after I bend them. To bend them where they go behind the drum I'm going to stick them in my vice and heat them up and hammer them over. I don't know much about metal but from my limited knowledge I believe when I heat and bend the metal it will weaken it and when I use the puller it could un bend the arms. Would it be a good idea to heat the whole arm, and then dip it it water or oil to heat treat the whole thing? If this would be possible since all I have is a smaller mapp torch used for plumbing.

 

[signcrafter]

Had some time today to work on this. I tried heating the arms up and bending them in my vise. Didn't work so well since all I have is a mapp torch for plumbing, spent about 10 minutes trying to heat it and couldn't get it red and when I tried using a sledge to bend it over the vise it didn't turn out, really wavy. So on to plan B, grind a slot and bend the metal over and weld. This worked good and I got the arms bent and welded up. Drilled the hole through the square tube for the pressure screw to pass through. I don't have any drums to try this out on but I had some old rusty rotors laying around so I just put it on there to put some force on it and see how it held up.

















Still have a few things to do to it. I want to put some wing nut screws on the sides of the arms to hold them in place on the square tubing. Also want to drill and tap some bolt holes on the bottom of the square tube in order to hold the snap on yoke on the square tube and to keep the yoke from turning when I turn the pressure screw.

This may or may not have been a waste of time. Like I mentioned above I have only worked with a few brake drums so don't have the experience of others. But the ones I have messd with were stuck on there and took a lot of beating with the hammer. Which can't be good for the bearing behind there. I guess the way I look at this is that I have zero dollars invested and about an hour total of time and it can't hurt to use this to put some pressure on the drum to give it some pre load when hitting with a hammer.