Buying a TIG machine - Seeking advice

[zkling]

I have seen water solenoids wired in that operated that way, in not sure if they ran them with the gas solenoid. I would be one to try it. If I had any worries on over loading I would put in a relay in to control both solenoids on separate contacts.

That is a good suggestion on the relay. Yea the last thing I want to do is harm the electronics in anyway. Off the top of my head I am not even sure what voltage the gas solenoid operates off of. I just thought it would be a good way to allow post flowing water. Then again do you think it would have enough preflow for the water to get too the torch head before the heat build up? My older sync doesn't have adjustable pre flow on the gas. I need to do some digging. Thanks for the input.

 

[theknurl]

I really need to find a way to get a water solenoid hooked up to my syncro 250. I don't know why the manufactures stopped putting them on the larger machines. A few years back I looked in different solenoids to put on it, but couldn't find any for real cheap. Any suggestions? I figure I could probably parallel it to the gas valve, and I could get post flow cooling water for the same duration of post flow gas? What are your thoughts on this?

zkling;
pull up a Miller part list, get the numbers for the gas and water solenoids (maybe they're the same)

try Grainger's, an industrial supply, a used machinery dealer

check the Miller wiring diagram to see how they wire it

there is no way i would have a TIG machine without both solenoids or with a pump

there is a dedicated faucet outside my shop it has no handle, yes, 25 years ago there was a handle on it and somebody turned it off, with the usual result

the waste water waters the flowers in the patio

 

[zkling]

zkling;
pull up a Miller part list, get the numbers for the gas and water solenoids (maybe they're the same)

The syncrowave 250 wasn't designed for a water solenoid, so there is not part # for it. Hence my idea of just paralleling it with the gas solenoid.

Does the water solenoid on your machine have a pre and post arc flow timer built into it? Just wondering if not having water flowing constantly is going to cause an issue with heat buildup in the torch. I really don't use my water torch much and when I do I just let it flow constantly. It would be kinda nice to have a solenoid to shut off the water when I am not welding, but not sure if it would really save me anything. I probably use my water torch ~15hrs a year MAX. The WP17 air cooled is really my go to.

 

[theknurl]

The syncrowave 250 wasn't designed for a water solenoid, so there is not part # for it. Hence my idea of just paralleling it with the gas solenoid.

Does the water solenoid on your machine have a pre and post arc flow timer built into it? Just wondering if not having water flowing constantly is going to cause an issue with heat buildup in the torch. I really don't use my water torch much and when I do I just let it flow constantly. It would be kinda nice to have a solenoid to shut off the water when I am not welding, but not sure if it would really save me anything. I probably use my water torch ~15hrs a year MAX. The WP17 air cooled is really my go to.

zkling;
you know i never thought about it, but its probably hooked to the power side of the timer not the output.....saves water because you don't need it for heat because you're not welding pre and post
mine definitely shuts off when not welding with the machine on

some Miller machine must have a water solenoid

air cooled torches aren't popular here i don't remember even seeing one in use

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

This IS a wonderfully informative thread

I did pull 100 A to my garage, which was the most that PGE would give me unless I paid for an upgrade to 125 A. I was told that 125 A was the highest I could get since my power lines come in underground.

I'd like to buy one TIG box, so..... I was thinking of buying one higher-end machine for the long haul. I'd like to make air plumbing for turbo setups and engine swaps, as well as Stainless Steel parts for outdoor towers and antenna projects. Having a smaller torch was very attractive - this would allow me to get into tighter spots.

Can anyone tell me what my material ceiling would be at 100 A at 240 V?

Adam

 

[gorilla]

Years ago I had an aluminum welding project that required running a 300 amp miller TIG at full power, after running about one hour it would trip a 100 amp circuit breaker. I'll bet next weeks beer money you won't be doing this at home.

 

[zkling]

This IS

Can anyone tell me what my material ceiling would be at 100 A at 240 V?

Adam

Don't worry you will be fine with 100A INPUT

To answer your question that is completely machine dependent. Inverter, heck 1" + Better have some dang think gloves for this. Average square wave transformer machine ~1/2"-5/8" steel and aluminum easily. Even the older sine wave machine should be able to get you in the 1/2" range without throwing the breaker often. That would be in tig mode.

Stick mode, a few inches

So what is the deal on the syncro did the seller ever get back to you?

Having a smaller torch was very attractive - this would allow me to get into tighter spots.

Adam

What I find really helps for those tight joints is a gas lens and pushing the tungsten out further from the collet. The gas lens helps to increase gas coverage by keeping the flow laminar coming out of the torch.

 

[theknurl]

Years ago I had an aluminum welding project that required running a 300 amp miller TIG at full power, after running about one hour it would trip a 100 amp circuit breaker. I'll bet next weeks beer money you won't be doing this at home.

+10

most of my aluminum welding has been done in the middle range of the 5 on my Lincoln 300/300, the AC amperage is from 15-140

i've used the High range 25-225 AC but usually with mostly Helium

don't remember ever using the Maximum range 60-375 AC

 

[offroadsteve]

[

Don't worry you will be fine with 100A INPUT
QUOTE]

I whole heartedly agree with this statement. There is a mistaken belief that you can't weld above X thickness without more power... and this simply isn't true. I would argue that you absoloutly have to have the ability to weld with at least 150 amps, but beyond that you are into joints that should be accomplished with a multi-pass weld rather than going at it with 300 amps.

My day job is as an engineer at a major shipyard and we reguarly weld steel plate joints anywhere from 1/4" to 6" using normal stick electrodes at 100-150 amps. However, anything over about 3/8" fillet size is done multi-pass. Our welding standards for a 1/2" fillet weld requires 3 passes, a 3/4" fillet is 6 passes, this is all using 3/16" 7018.

The advantages to being able to weld with more power is speed and possibly not requiring pre-heat, which are typically not concerns for a home hobby welder. For us at work, certian materials require a 200 degree F preheat prior to welding, and for anything over about 1" in thickness, preheat helps keep the weld area warm.

Anyway... just an aside for an otherwise good discussion. To the OP's original question, I have personally welded with a Square Wave 175, 185, a Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 200 and a Aerowave 300. All are good machines. If money was no object, the Dynasty is the best of that group based on weld performance and portability. My current machine is the Aerowave because it will do everything the Dynasty will do, but I got my whole setup for less than $2K with a water cooler and 50' set of leads. Only problem is the machine weighs 400 lbs as others have mentioned about the larger transformer based machines.

 

[theknurl]

Adam;
for tight spots WeldCraft WP-20
the head is 0.735" in diameter and with my cut down cup and a button cap, the head is only 1.900 long (not counting the tungsten)

zkling;
gas lenses are big and bulky, definitely harder to get into tight spots....I don't use them

i doubt there is much difference in material capacity between any 375 Amp machines

my torch is rated for 250 Amps and it does aluminum cylinder heads just fine

 

[zkling]

zkling;
gas lenses are big and bulky, definitely harder to get into tight spots....I don't use them

Different strokes for different folks. I like tend to do quite a bit of tubing fab, goofy angles provides some "fun" spots to get all around the tubes. For me the gas lens and extended sickout work real well to get those tight to reach places.

i doubt there is much difference in material capacity between any 375 Amp machines

Yes, be he asked about INPUT power. A 100amp breaker for a 350amp output class inverter is well beyond what that machines needs to max out. Now for the same output of a transformer machine, you would be lucky to run very long at full 350A+ output on a 100amp breaker.

 

[zkling]

Aerowave 300. All are good machines.

O... you personally own an Aerowave? Another one of Millers fantastic products. Really a innovation for its time.

 

[racingtadpole]

Just going to throw it out there...

The big name TIG welders attract premium prices.

A couple of years ago I bought an imported inverter 200A AC/DC unit that is very similar to the Everlast in function. Came with a three year warranty (there is a local agent in Australia that stocks parts) and it was about 40% of the cost of a second hand name brand unit. Came with a pedal and a stack of consumables too. So far I have been very impressed with its capabilities, a nice little machine to use.

I know there is a buy local aspect to all of this, but if you are looking second hand, the local company has already seen all the money they are going to for that machine.

Just some food for thought for you.

 

[theknurl]

Yes, be he asked about INPUT power. A 100amp breaker for a 350amp output class inverter is well beyond what that machines needs to max out. Now for the same output of a transformer machine, you would be lucky to run very long at full 350A+ output on a 100amp breaker.

i was answering you about thickness capability, not his input question

but as offroadsteve said in thick stuff you're doing multiple passes anyway

i've done a few tube chassis and roll cages in my life......
for me its way easier to use a small torch with normal stickout and go all the way around the joint without playing with stickout or the dial
(worst machine i ever used was a Linde, the pedal was absolute garbage)

least efficient machine ever?

Stuart Toomey's Miller HF-250.....sucked power like a Hollywood starlet does cocaine and c**k

i'm welding ~6 hours a day for FMF at home.....Stuart is TIG welding Toomey Racing aluminum mufflers a few at a time, his electric bill $160 a month mine? $23 -25 and my electric kitchen is on the same meter

 

[zkling]

I didn't have a question on thickness capacity. Like I said, different strokes for different folks. I will stick with my gas lens and you can stick with your smaller torches.

Adam, so where are you standing now on your decision? Are you still looking to do the jewelry with the tig or looking towards a small gas torch setup? Ever hear back from the guy with the sycro 250 for $400?

least efficient machine ever?

Stuart Toomey's Miller HF-250.....sucked power like a Hollywood starlet does cocaine and c**k

My vote would have to go to some of the OLD linde yellow boxes and the like. I forget what it was, but one older machine that I ran across onetime at auction had like ~150amp input rating on singe phase 2xxV

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Never heard back from the CL seller with the Synchro 250 for $400
Damn

I am still interested in a machine, big time. What I have seen is that MOST machines do heavy things rather easily; what separates the good machines from the.... less desirable boxes is their capacity to do fine stuff

I have a Miller 252 already, would prolly use that for MOST steel. The proposed TIG box would be put into service for the fine materials ( such as the proposed jewelry ) and aluminum. I would like to do some more turbo experiments, so building air intake tubing would be an ideal application, as would stainless steel gates, stainless steel truck racks, etc.

I'd also like to dabble in food grade SS, and build fine antenna parts too.
Hams on here know what I mean - I'm Extra Class / GROL / 1st Telegraph

I also build transmissions so fixing up cracked aluminum cases would also be attractive

SO I am still shopping but hoping to find something 2nd hand and save some money
Might have to do a handful more trans units AND bust out several dozen more hours of O.T.

Adam

 

[racingtadpole]

My vote would have to go to some of the OLD linde yellow boxes and the like. I forget what it was, but one older machine that I ran across onetime at auction had like ~150amp input rating on singe phase 2xxV

Sorry mate, I have to call bull shizer on that. At 220V that gives it a potential consumption of 33 000 Watts. Mate that's 33kW. Standard electrical supply for a whole house here is only 24kW (100A 240V) single phase.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Sorry mate, I have to call bull shizer on that. At 220V that gives it a potential consumption of 33 000 Watts. Mate that's 33kW. Standard electrical supply for a whole house here is only 24kW (100A 240V) single phase.

I wouldn't be surprised if that was true. Some of the bigger millers are rated for 100amp input. I could see some of the other industrial machines being rated for 150 amps.

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2

 

[zkling]

Sorry mate, I have to call bull shizer on that. At 220V that gives it a potential consumption of 33 000 Watts. Mate that's 33kW. Standard electrical supply for a whole house here is only 24kW (100A 240V) single phase.

Sorry mate, but you are just not knowledgeable enough with the larger machines. But I appreciate you calling me a liar. Typically those machines were run on 480v+ to get the current a bit more manageable, but could run on 240v.

Standard electrical supply for a whole house here is only 24kW (100A 240V) single phase.

The last thing the company had in mind was if the little DIY guy could run one of these machines at their house.

Since Linde info is so hard to find. Here is the manual from the older, yet newer than the linde, Syncrowave 500

Page 13/56

Rated welding ouput 500amps, 40v, 60%DC.
Amps input 60hz single phase

200v-->206 amps
230v-->180amps
460v-->90amps
575v-->72amps
KVA--> 41.4
KW-->26

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o350ab_mil.pdf

What makes these even worse is when they install PFC's, which lower the high end running amps, but drastically increase the idle current. Usually these machines are super cheap at auction because very few people can a.) Use them b.) Factories don't want to pay the power bill they require. Hence I have almost bought one or two. It is pretty hard to turn down a $100, 400amp ac/dc tig welder, then you realize there is no freaking way you can even turn it on at home.

I wouldn't be surprised if that was true. Some of the bigger millers are rated for 100amp input. I could see some of the other industrial machines being rated for 150 amps.

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2

SOME? Heck back in days of sine wave transformer tig, dang near all the industrial machines were expected to be fed on a 100amp breaker.

 

[zkling]

I am still interested in a machine, big time. What I have seen is that MOST machines do heavy things rather easily; what separates the good machines from the.... less desirable boxes is their capacity to do fine stuff

You are VERY much correct on that. Power is great, but if you can't control it.

Ultimately for you I would look at one of the dynasty or TA equivalent inverters. They have the low end features that you will really appreciate. Can it be done on an older powerhouse? Sure, I'm sure theknurl can weld pop cans with his older transformer machine. However he has years upon years of experience with that machine. Starting from scratch, giving both folks of the same talent. I can guarantee the guy with the newer inverter is going to be able to weld the thinner stuff with much more success, much sooner than they guy with the older transformer machine.

I know, I know I sound like a syncrowave fan boy. But honestly the jump from my old 330A/BP to the syncrowave 250 was a very nice change on thin aluminum and stainless. I have played with the dynasty's. If I did enough thin stainless work to offset the cost of one, I would go out and get one. However since I don't do that much super thing stainless or aluminum the syncro works just fine for my applications.

I also build transmissions so fixing up cracked aluminum cases would also be attractive
Adam

O this sounds so much more "fun" than it really is. Right up there with fixing lower end units for boat motors and drives. This is where you are going to need the power and duty cycle of a larger machine. If you think welding clean aluminum plate is difficult, wait till you strike a torch on a porous oil filled casting that is so common on transmissions and the like.

Don't get me wrong it is doable and usually good money, but man it is a nasty job. Usually build, grind, build, grind, build. To finally get to a clean base of material to build upon. This is where you are going to want the water cooled torch as well.

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Bought this machine today from an Estate Sale

Has with it:

Ground Lead
Stick Electrode
Air Cooled Tig Torch
Foot Pedal ASSY
Manual

Whole kit and caboodle for $500.

It does weigh 365 lbs, so my job this week is to build a first class welding cart for the machine, accessories, gas tank, water cooler torch accessory, etc.
Does anyone have any good examples or snapshots of one that they really like?

Adam

 

[zkling]

Heck yea man exact same machine I have, sans the analog gauges. You be fancy with those. What are the letters that start the serial number on your (tells year of manufacture)?

You got a GREAT deal on that machine, especially considering what it came with.

Mine has the factory running gear and thus cylinder rack on it. I could take a snap shot if you really wanted. I would probably go along that route, having the gas rack mounted to the machine is really nice. You can still purchase the factory running gear I think ~$100. Just find yourself a nice pair of swivel casters for the front and a large pair of wheels for the back.

Did you power it up before purchase?

EDIT, It goes without saying, if you have any questions on that machine, don't hesitate to ask.

 

[jhn9840]

That is a lot of machine for 5 bills. Congratulations, enjoy it.

Jhn9840
John

 

[racingtadpole]

Sorry mate, but you are just not knowledgeable enough with the larger machines. But I appreciate you calling me a liar. Typically those machines were run on 480v+ to get the current a bit more manageable, but could run on 240v.



The last thing the company had in mind was if the little DIY guy could run one of these machines at their house.

Since Linde info is so hard to find. Here is the manual from the older, yet newer than the linde, Syncrowave 500

Page 13/56

Rated welding ouput 500amps, 40v, 60%DC.
Amps input 60hz single phase

200v-->206 amps
230v-->180amps
460v-->90amps
575v-->72amps
KVA--> 41.4
KW-->26

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o350ab_mil.pdf

What makes these even worse is when they install PFC's, which lower the high end running amps, but drastically increase the idle current. Usually these machines are super cheap at auction because very few people can a.) Use them b.) Factories don't want to pay the power bill they require. Hence I have almost bought one or two. It is pretty hard to turn down a $100, 400amp ac/dc tig welder, then you realize there is no freaking way you can even turn it on at home.





SOME? Heck back in days of sine wave transformer tig, dang near all the industrial machines were expected to be fed on a 100amp breaker.

It appears not only do I know squat about big industrial welders, I also don't know as much as about how you lot distribute electrickery as I thought I did. Your comment prompted me to google a bit and I learnt a couple of things, so thanks. My intention wasn't to come off calling you a liar, you clearly have some cred, please accept my humblest apologies mate.

 

[A_Pmech]

Damn good machine for the money, Adam!

I would copy the Miller running gear or just buy it new if they still make it. My Aircrafter is half a ton and has the stock running gear under it. It's easy enough to move around.

Use some urethane covered steel or iron wheels.

 

[zkling]

It appears not only do I know squat about big industrial welders, I also don't know as much as about how you lot distribute electrickery as I thought I did. Your comment prompted me to google a bit and I learnt a couple of things, so thanks. My intention wasn't to come off calling you a liar, you clearly have some cred, please accept my humblest apologies mate.

No worries man What are some of the more popular welding machines over there? Cause you don't typically have 120v, right? So say you have an electric stove or dryer, what is typically the largest breaker in a residential panel over there?

 

[BD1]

AWESOME DEAL ! Here's MILLER site for manual.

http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php

Check year of machine with serial number chart.

http://www.millerwelds.com/service/serialnumberreference.html

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Damn good machine for the money, Adam!

I would copy the Miller running gear or just buy it new if they still make it. My Aircrafter is half a ton and has the stock running gear under it. It's easy enough to move around.

Use some urethane covered steel or iron wheels.

Hey John

Well, I was thinking about that, but I was also thinking about how much I liked the setup on the SyncrhoWave 250 DX Tig Runner at work. I like the height of the machine, the cool-mate down below, and the bottle in the back with the little drawer for bits and the electrode holder

SO....

I was thinking of coming into the fab shop at work on Sat and cutting out the frame and tray pieces, and welding them up with the casters for the machine to emulate the TIG runner config.

Seems as though if I spent 6-8 hours planning, shearing, sawing, welding and building the new TIG cart then I would get something that would be very functional and " just what I wanted "

So....

In the mean time I will search the web for other people's examples

If your all collective experience, what features or config do you like best or consider to be " must haves "?

Adam

 

[SeanM]

I am going to piss off the purist here and recommend the Everlast machine. I had a Dynasty 200 which was an awesome machine until I had HF start issues. After many attempts to resolve the issues and very little useful help from Miller I found a buyer who wanted the machine as a portable jobsite stick welder and I got a fair price for it. The poor support I received from Miller left a bad taste in my mouth. I read a lot of reviews and decided to give the everlast machine a try. For a little more than I sold my used Dynasty for I was bought a brand new PowerPro 256 from everlast.

The analog dial knobs were a little funky to get used to at first, but now I prefer them over the digital buttons as it makes quick work of tweaking a setting. Low end I found to be just as stable as the Dynasty and the high end works very well. Pulser has a good low to high end range. It is a great machine so far.

This is the Dynasty I had:
https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/196795_10151049330805003_116691841_n.jpg


The everlast replacement:

https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1002160_10151587682580003_400606036_n.jpg

 

[MotoDave]

How long have you had the Everlast?

 

[cnc-me]

Bought this machine today from an Estate Sale

Has with it:

Ground Lead
Stick Electrode
Air Cooled Tig Torch
Foot Pedal ASSY
Manual

Whole kit and caboodle for $500.

It does weigh 365 lbs, so my job this week is to build a first class welding cart for the machine, accessories, gas tank, water cooler torch accessory, etc.
Does anyone have any good examples or snapshots of one that they really like?

Adam

You ****, that's a great deal you got on the syncro.

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Hi Everyone

Making the home made cart today, will post pics once I get it together

WHAT water cooled torch setup do you all like? I would be using this with one of the rectangular cool-mate accessories

Adam

 

[MBeaty]

WHAT water cooled torch setup do you all like? I would be using this with one of the rectangular cool-mate accessories

I am a fan of Weld-Tec's line of torches. They are solid and best of all they are not too bad on price compared to the weldcraft torches. A 20 series torch will be smaller than an 18 series torch but will only be rated for 250 amps. Bear in mind this is a continuous operation rating, so likely there would be very few times that it would be underrated on a syncro 250, but there could be some times when you would want a bigger torch.

Which ever brand of torch you get, make sure to spend the extra money for a good set of high flex rubber cables for it and a good cable protector.

When looking for torch accessories like collets, cups, lenses, caps, etc, it can be a little overwhelming at first because every torch size as well as air cooled and water cooled use different parts. Here is a link to a site that has parts lists for all of the major sizes of torches. Just click on the size you are interested in and a PDF will load with a parts list and diagram. Luckily, the welsing companies are all of board with using an industry standard for torch parts, which can be found just about anywhere including McMaster and other online sites. McMaster is more expensive for the accessories, but you can buy individuals of gas lenses and collets rather than packages of 5 or more like many retailers.

Tig Torch Parts Diagrams

 

[theknurl]

Adam;
congrats on the machine....

torch? Weldcraft WP-20 with 25' cables.......DO NOT GET 12' CABLES

you will be very pissed off at yourself if you do.....the 1st time you try to go to the other side of whatever you're welding

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Hi Guys

Follow up Q
What do you think that the valve on the lower left is for? I am going to guess.... water?
Also, what is the proper setup of the High Frequency adjustment knob?

Adam

 

[LXCam]

I've been following this thread with great interest since you first posted it since I've been on the hunt for a deal on a decent unit. Been hunting cl for a couple years without luck. Anyhow after hours upon hours of looking and reading reviews I think I'm gonna try the everlast as well. For my needs it seems to fit the bill. I have a miller 252 for all my mig needs. Op, glad you came across a smoking deal, major congrats. But Sean posts mimic several others I've found on the welding boards.

I am going to piss off the purist here and recommend the Everlast machine. I had a Dynasty 200 which was an awesome machine until I had HF start issues. After many attempts to resolve the issues and very little useful help from Miller I found a buyer who wanted the machine as a portable jobsite stick welder and I got a fair price for it. The poor support I received from Miller left a bad taste in my mouth. I read a lot of reviews and decided to give the everlast machine a try. For a little more than I sold my used Dynasty for I was bought a brand new PowerPro 256 from everlast.

The analog dial knobs were a little funky to get used to at first, but now I prefer them over the digital buttons as it makes quick work of tweaking a setting. Low end I found to be just as stable as the Dynasty and the high end works very well. Pulser has a good low to high end range. It is a great machine so far.

This is the Dynasty I had:
https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/196795_10151049330805003_116691841_n.jpg


The everlast replacement:

https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1002160_10151587682580003_400606036_n.jpg

 

[1953mercury]

Here is the cart I built for mine. Machine is about the same weight. Requires 100 amps input for full capacity, but runs fine on the 50 amp circuit I have it on now. When it moves to the new shop it will get the full 100 amps. Mike

 

[zkling]

Hi Guys

Follow up Q
What do you think that the valve on the lower left is for? I am going to guess.... water?
Also, what is the proper setup of the High Frequency adjustment knob?

Adam

WOW, yours has the super uncommon, optional coolant valve. I would love some specs on that please, and how it is hooked up. I have been thinking about trying to add a solenoid to mine, but wasn't sure how. If you get a standard recirculating tig cooler you won't need it. It was used for running tap water though the machine.

Left to right...

Ground clamp stud in left red terminal.
Foot pedal goes in the blue connector.
115V aux outlet for watercooler power.
115V outlet reset button. (Small white button with "15" on it).
Water valve (optional) is on the left
Gas valve is on the right (make sure you note gas flow arrow on the solenoid)
Far right red terminal is the work lead or torch out put terminal
Right, almost out of picture is the spark gap for HF coil.

Hi frequency adjustment is just that, it adjusts the intensity of the high frequency arc. You want it as low as possible otherwise it can screw with nearby electronics. I think mine is ~@40, the 80 on there seems a bi high. Make sure you check the spark gaps (far right of picture) they should be ~0.008" IIRC. Make sure they are clean and not pitted.

Before you put the machine to work I would really recommend that you go through it completely. Take off the covers and blow it out gently. Check all jumpers and input voltage jumper setting. Adjust and check the HF spark gap, make sure all connections are tight. Then you should be set for a long service life from that machine. A clean welder is a happy welder.

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

OK. Made the cart for the machine this week.

I used perforated metal on the bottom tray as well as the top tray, and I do plan on adding a slide out drawer for the space right under the top tray and above the lifting eye.

I wanted a cart that was tall but would separate into 2 pieces, so I could pull the top off and then get access to the machine internals without having to take the machine off of the rolling cart entirely.

It sits on a 1/4" thick sheet of aluminum plate , all tubing is .095 wall and the angle is 2x2x1/8.
eBay a set of casters with brakes and it rolls oh so nice across the tile floor.

Four large hooks to hold the power cord, tig cables, water in / water out hoses, ground lead, what-have-you.

Even came out level too when I put my 6' across the top.

Adam

 

[zkling]

Great job on the cart How does it run?