Cast-in-place Anchors

[ALinCarolina]

I'm in final stages of shop plans. I want to install concrete anchors when we pour the slab but only want female connectors so I don't have studs sticking up. Since I don't know exactly where my benches will be and want to anchor my metal bender only when I need to use it, I will place quite a few anchors around. Anybody used any of these:

http://www.ucanfast.com/products/de...c=4&subcategory=Precast+Inserts&productid=169

Or the B3Z anchors on this page:

http://www.williamsform.com/Concret...ncrete_Anchors/cast-in-place_con_anchors.html

Before I found these I was considering welding a nut onto the end of a piece of square tubing and setting it flush with the surface of the slab or slightly lower. I could keep a flat head screw or something in them to keep debris out when not in use. I plan on putting in a few of the chain anchor cups also. Any other ideas?

 

[LB-1911]

Cut from a previous thread -

I used 7/8" coupling nuts with a 7/8" bolt, washers, and a pipe spacer, in the bottom side set in the concrete before finishing. The top of the unit was covered in tape to keep concrete out. The 7/8" diameter hole does not impede casters etc. I just run a 7/8" bolt into them when I want to fasten anything down. When not in use they are plugged with a slotted section of 7/8" all-thread or part of a bolt greased up with anti-seize. 7/8" coupling nuts are available at some hardware stores and steel supply houses.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...0l13608l12l12l0l2l2l0l127l615l9j1l10l0.efis.1.

I thought about fabricating some of the things that others have suggested, but ended up buying 4 of these,

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-floor-anchor-pot-1600-p-11538.aspx

along with the "new floor plates."

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-instant-floor-plate-new-floors-p-10320.aspx

I welded some rebar "legs" to the plates, so I could drive them in to grade, and they ended up flush with the concrete.

 

[vision8]

I looked at those but to put a layout for frame straightening ( Champion Layout of 20+ ) would have been $$$$. I made 6" x 6" x 6" out of HSS tubing with a 1" Dia. round x 12" long thru at 3" so I could feed a sling or chain as a anchoring now have 6" x 6" caps as covers over them. Also put two 4" x 4" HSS tubes x 36" long with slots for bolts to use as hold-downs for my tire machine flush with the floor. Pods have 1/8" plate bottoms.
Put them inline with the doors to pull a vehicle into the shop and outside 20 feet to pull a vehicle out of each shop bay. Lots of planning !

 

[jack stand]

I plan on putting in a few of the chain anchor cups also. Any other ideas?

In one of my shops, I put a 5' pc of rail (railroad) upside down to weld to for some projects. In my current shop I put in several 2" reciever tubes (like a trailer hitch) for 2 legged sawhorses and/or a "Hossfeld" bender. The few times I used the rail, it was invaluable. I had bent the frame on a dump trailer, welded a chain from the hitch to the floor (rail) and a pair of hyd. jacks under the bend, with a tractor holding down the back. Worked slicker than snot!

 

[ALinCarolina]

Thanks for the ideas. I was thinking of using 3/4" bolts and coupling nuts. Do you all think I would need to go with the 7/8"? That's pretty big but might as well I guess.
I probably could just weld a couple wings off the nuts to keep them from rotating in the concrete.

 

[cbacres]

Hilti has anchors you can set in a drilled hole. They are used in commercial and industrial a lot and would be fine for anchoring benders and such.

I believe tamp-in is a name of these anchors.

Can't vouch for pull out for frame work though.

 

[metalart]

Drop in anchors....

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-1-2-in-x-2-in-Steel-Concrete-Drop-In-Anchor-50126/100155295

 

[matt_i]

There is no way nuts are going to be able to withstand the heavy mud pour and stay on hole pattern...unless you weld them to a grid of metal (rebar, flat bar, tube, etc) that fits the bender base exactly, before concrete pouring ever starts.

For something lightweight like that, I would personally just use drop-in anchors after the fact.

 

[pcmeiners]

As mention ,keeping the alignment during a pour is tough, any pre-placed anchors or rods need to be attached to something which will not move; nothing like having a rods 1/2" off spec, and they will be off if free floating anchors/rods are not re checked during the final crete finishing. I have set hundreds of anchors for multi story steel buildings footings and machines, very exacting, time consuming, no room for mistakes. Personally I would drill and anchor where needed, so much easier, and with the proper hardware, no loss of strength.

 

[ALinCarolina]

Good point about the anchors moving. Definitely would be a good idea to weld them to a square of rebar first. That will be my new plan for now. The slab will have hydronic tubing so even though I will try to measure, photograph, and diagram the layout it will be scary to drill holes afterward.
The other thought is that if they still are a little off to match the base plate I could make an adapter plate of some sort.

 

[Nor'Easter]

Go with the largest nut size you feel comfortable with. It will make cleaning them easier and you'll be less likely to get them misaligned and stripped.

 

[Pwrgeek]

On the tubing one trick is to either let the slab get hot and run cold water through it and you can see the tubing with a cheap thermal camera or to let it get cold (freezing) and then put water on it to make a layer of ice before running hot water through tubing. Those are the ways I've seen people find the tubing after the slab is poured. Now that I live in the tropics (Houston) it's not really a thing I have to worry about anymore so new ways may have come up in the last few years.


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