Circular Saw

[moparfreak]

Sadly, I am starting to have problems with my trusty 7-1/4" Skilsaw corded.

It's starting to make some high pitched shrill noises (like blade slipping type stuff, but it's not loose!), and the motor bogging down and blade stopping just cutting regular plywood when it never did before. I am getting back into my kitchen cabinets and need to have a dead accurate reliable way of making long cuts in sheet goods, so now while I figure out maybe what's wrong w/ my Skilsaw, it's time to invest in another one....

Any suggestions? It would be nice to have cordless, but I only have the Ryobi 18V and Milwaukee M18 systems and won't invest in a new setup just for one tool...not sure about how the Milwaukee one performs?

That being said, I'd go for any brand corded, a recent Wood magazine test showed the Makita as being a front-runner.

Also does anyone use the tracksaws? I have been considering the Grizzly tracksaw (they have both a mini one and standard sized one) since that fits the bill of a lot of the stuff I do.

Any advice is much appreciated...

 

[LB-1911]

Till others come along -

A couple of Makita Track Saw users identified here -
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296842

Grizzly owner
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302623



Milwaukee 2731 M18 FUEL 7 1/4" Circular Saw
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263392

Milwaukee Circular Saw: 2730-22 Brushless vs Corded

Looking for a good corded circular saw
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275449

 

[moparfreak]

If I pick up any cordless, it would be either the 6-1/2" or 7-1/4" Milwaukee. It would probably come down to which felt best in my hands. I see from the threads and reviews that both of them are very well regarded.

But at the same time, I guess maybe it comes down to either that or going full out and finally investing in a track saw. I've been eying the Grizzly for a good long time now. The Makita / Dewalt look nice too but like the Festool are just likely out of range.

It's tougher cause I can't go anywhere and get my hands on the Grizzle to get a feel for it in use w/o just dropping the cash.

 

[bcradio]

Track saw all the way... You will wonder how you survived without one.

 

[audioworks04]

What model is your skil saw? If it is worm drive you may try changing the gear oil it in, as I have never actually worn one out other than brushes and I used them and and abuse them on a daily basis.
I wouldnt go cordless, cordless is great for small things, but ripping sheet goods is not one of them. Personally i love skil mag77 and hd77, but rigid and dewalt also make great corded worm drive saws.
For anything straight line based like cabinetry I would definitely look into a track saw, but if you spend the time and clamp a straight edge like a level to your surface you can cut very straight also.

 

[moparfreak]

Took a quick look at pricing, including a 10% off coupon from Grizzly I have in my email. This is to have enough track to be able to cut either 4' (cross) or 8' (rip) directions in a full sheet.

Mini Griz track saw all-in: $210 shipped (saw + four 24" tracks + clamps)
There are a couple reviews. Generally regarded as not bad, but cut isn't as clean, and requires a good bit of fine tuning to get working right. I'm concerned about having 3 track joints to span a full rip cut.

Std Griz track saw all-in: $287 shipped (saw + two 55" tracks + clamps) or $317 when adding the 28" track as an extra piece, but I wouldn't think this is needed to be honest)
Reviews on this one are generally better, some fine tuning still needed to get its performance level closer to that of the Festool, but for 1/4 of the cost it's well accepted in the industry so far, and has been out longer.

I guess that's nto too bad, considering I'd be spending up to $200 on a brand new Milwaukee, though that would be a more all-purpose saw than the Grizzly track....

 

[AnEv942]

Im seriously looking at an EZSmart saw system
http://www.eurekazone.com/product_p/ezts108.htm.

Mostly appears adaptable to different saws ( i dont know that others arent). Though If I were to pick one up I would still have an inexpensive saw on hand- a dedicated one for the track so maybe non issue.

Your picture disappeared?

 

[moparfreak]

Thanks for reminding me about the EZSmart. I remember looking at it awhile ago and filing away as an option for panel cutting. I think Rockler picked them up too, so now it's possible to get your hands on it in person.

But, by reminding me you've only made this more difficult!

 

[cg81]

My dad just bought a Milwaukee corded saw at home depot for $129.99. It came with a case. I used it and found it to be very nice. It is not worm drive so the blade is on the right but using it I noticed you can look over the top of the motor and see the blade and where it is cutting. The small notch on the front of the shoe lines up perfectly with the blade. It is very easy to line up and make straight cuts quickly.

I got spoiled to this because I have an older craftsman saw just like it. I can't see the front of the blade looking over the top of the motor, and the notch on the front of the shoe is a v shape and doesn't really line up with anything.

 

[moparfreak]

I think the best of both worlds or at least a place to start might be getting the Milwaukee cordless saw, and then combining it with the Universal Edge Guide from EZ thru Rockler for an extra $90. This gives me a nice all-purpose saw in the Milwaukee and also a nice way of making long rip cuts (the toughest IMO on breaking down sheet goods) with the zero clearance aspect for quality edge. Plus I get rid of the cord.

I'm not sure why but I'm just very nervous to dive straight into the Grizzly track saw system. I don't think I've seen enough real world (i.e. not magazines or bloggers) users talking about its success. Maybe that would change if I could demo it...

 

[manwithtools]

I've got the DeWalt track saw system with a 102" and 59" track and the router adapter. Once you use one of these systems you will not go back to a standard saw arrangement for panel work. The variable speed and plunge feature, anti-kickback are all added bonuses. The plunge allows making cutouts in the middle of panels mush more safely and accurately than any other method.

It was about $500 combined when I bought it. I've got a 30 year old Porter Cable 7 1/2", a 30 year old Skill 71/2" worm drive and a Milwaukee 10 1/4" saw and I use the DeWalt setup on nearly everything now. I rarely use my table saw when cutting sheet goods because this is so handy and accurate.

Having the router attachment makes it a breeze to make straight groves the entire length of an 8' sheet.

It may seem like a lot of money, but it will amaze you how well it works.

Build a frame work like the one in the attached picture and it will be even more evident how well it can work. You only have to handle the sheet goods once to get it on the frame work surface and then you can cut it to the desired dimensions. The frame work comes apart for easy storage and you can effectively have table saw functionality any where you want to set it up.

 

[moparfreak]

Was there a reason you picked the Dewalt over the Grizzly or Makita or Festool perhaps? How is the dust collection on it?

I am not opposed to spending that much, if I know it will become a go-to fixture in the shop for years to come...

 

[Jamie V]

Anyone know why the Milwaukee 6-1/2 fuel circular saw has the blade on the left while the 7-1/4 fuel is on the right?

I'm looking into getting one and like the blade on the left like my mag skilsaw.

 

[manwithtools]

I chose the Dewalt because a local dealer had a special on the package that made it very reasonable. The dust collection is good. It's a good system and the others maybe as well, I did my research at the time and found this to be a good solution.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[manwithtools]

BTW. Be sure to get a one piece track for the length of the cuts you want to do. Two piece will always be a compromise.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[tarbellb]

I have also looked into the track saws pretty extensively, I do mostly sheet goods when it comes to builds.

I feel like the Festool is top, w/ price to match. Then Makita and Dewalt fighting for 2nd with a small decrease in price. The Festool would be my choice if going this route beacasue you could easily recoup your investment if reselling used.

But I also noticed that Grizzly is marketing the Shop Fox version of their own track saw for even less then the Grizzly model. I cant seem to find the sale, but I swore I saw what seemed like a good deal on the Shop Fox version on Ebay/Amazon/Grizzly?

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[toddoky]

Thanks for reminding me about the EZSmart. I remember looking at it awhile ago and filing away as an option for panel cutting. I think Rockler picked them up too, so now it's possible to get your hands on it in person.

But, by reminding me you've only made this more difficult!

I just had an EZsmart system delivered to my door for a project I'll be doing over the next week. If you'd like, I can post my opinion of it's effectiveness and accuracy when I finish the job.

 

[moparfreak]

I didn't know a shopfox version existed, will look into it...

Toddoky, I would definitely like to know how it works out for you. What parts of the system did you get?

 

[peteco]

Gotta tell ya, my new Ridgid Gen5X circular saw is a heck of a saw. Bought the combo set when it was on sale for $399. The saw cuts with lots of power and the 4Ah batteries go a good while

People complain about the warranty but I have never had any issues. Just register like they say and make sure you get in the system. It's not rocket science. Have gotten 3 replacement batteries over the years and just had my older impact trigger replaced.

 

[manwithtools]

BTW. Be sure to get a one piece track for the length of the cuts you want to do. Two piece will always be a compromise.

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Let me elaborate about this point. Get a single track that will at least handle a 96" sheet. Then make sure you have another that will handle 48". You also need the clamps to hold the track in place.

The problem with getting two piece tracks is: When you need to make a cross cut they will be connected for a long cut and when you need to make a 96" cut they will be in two pieces that you need to reconnect and align.

The full length (102" and 59") avoid this problem. Also, the long one will be perfectly straight without needing to realign every time you connect two pieces together.

 

[94_C/1500]

I don't even like to post about construction based subjects, I've been working on and off in that field half of my life. I feel like everyone has their own way of doing things, and I'm no different. With mechanic stuff it's a whole different ball game, construction is just so different. Anyways any saw will do is what I say. The Dewalts seemed the best but the ones we used ran higher amps and constantly blow fuses/kick breakers and it's not uncommon for them to burn up cords. Porter Cable has good stuff too. Really any name brand is good enough to hold up for years.

 

[toddoky]

I didn't know a shopfox version existed, will look into it...

Toddoky, I would definitely like to know how it works out for you. What parts of the system did you get?

I purchased the kit that includes the saw base and two different lengths of track...it was just over $200 from Woodcraft.

 

[CharlieADelaney]

The 18 volt DeWalt 6 1/2" circular saw has done me well for many years. It has enough power to cut through 2x lumber without much hassle. The only drawback is the battery tends to get heavy.

I'm also searching for a new circular saw and have been reading this website: bestcircularsawguides.com. I like their detailed buying guide, reviews and product comparisons. Thinking about getting the DEWALT DWE575SB, which they have rated at 4.8/5 stars.

 

[moparfreak]

Toddoky, Still very curious about the EZ Guide tracksaw system and how it worked out for you. Looking into it, in order to get a size big enough to both rip and cross cut a full sheet, I'd need the 108" kit which is $279 at Woodcraft, $315 on their website. Add to that the ~$150 or so for a new Milwaukee or other brand saw, and it does start to mount.

The grizzly package is starting to look pretty good at under $300 all-in. Looked at the shopfox version which seems to only be sold on Amazon, and that would end up being more expensive than the Grizzly through their own website...

 

[moparfreak]

Decided I'm going to bite the bullet and order the larger Grizzly track saw. I've spoken w/ a few folks who have track saws in their shops (albeit, higher end than Grizz), and they had only praise, said it was a game changer. Probably will still move ahead w/ a standard circ saw at some point but that's not urgent for the cabinet work I will be doing. For ~$325 I'll get a full system and I'll grow into it, and if I ever want to upgrade down the road to a nicer model or brand, I'll know a lot more than I do now....

I'll definitely post some feedback once I get it and have used it for a little while.

 

[tarbellb]

Please do a follow up after you get a few projects done!

 

[moparfreak]

Got my Grizzly track saw in the mail yesterday and started unboxing...

Everything came out of the box well packed and looking good.

Tracks looked in good shape, and my first impressions on the saw are that it is bigger than I imagined it would be. To use one-handed free-hand I think would be a chore, but once you put it on the track, it's guided and slides much easier. I guess I thought it would be more "dainty" but that is not the feel I get at all. Even threw my old Skilsaw next to it, and the handle and grip especially are much much bigger.

Another thing that I've seen in reviews is that the plunge spring is a bit too stiff, making it difficult to plunge down. Personally in trying that out, I don't feel that is the case, I think it has an appropriate amount of stiffness, about the same as my other plunge routers. I obviously don't have any comparison points to how the other track saws feel in this area.

There are some tips and videos on how to make improvements to the saw out of the box:

1) stablizing the saw plate a bit on the track
2) A good part of the saw blade is exposed on both sides, by covering this up, dust collection is supposed to be much better

So I'll research these things and probably just make the changes right up front. Still need to take the time to put the track guides together and make the first cut, but it's a start! I'm working on sanding & refinishing a number of cabinet door / drawer fronts right now, but once those are squared away I'll be designing and starting a few more from-scratch upper cabinets to finish off the kitchen. This should come in handy!

 

[guy48065]

Good choice!
There are guys on woodworking forums that have always had an enormous cabinet saw taking up huge space in their shop & are considering downsizing to a contractor saw--just for rips. The track saw is so good and so handy they don't use the behemoth any more.

 

[moparfreak]

So I finally had a chance to try out the track saw on a real project for the first time since I got it. I'm building a shallow wide pull-out drawer for the toekick space under one of my kitchen cabinets, so I needed to cross-cut a 15" wide board that was even just a bit too wide for my 12" sliding compound saw, and I haven't yet built a nice cross-cut sled for my tablesaw that can handle large long pieces like that.

Figured, it's a perfect opportunity to bring out the 27" track and Grizz saw, and give it a run through. Spent a few minutes dialing it in, making adjustments to tighten up the play of the saw on the tracks (they have adjustment knobs to do that, which makes it pretty straightforward). Made the first cut on the track by itself, to cut the zero clearance rubber insert. Once that was done, lined that freshly cut rubber edge against my layout lines, and made a few quick cuts on the plywood. The cuts came out nicely. There is enough friction on the bottom of the track that I really don't feel the need to fuss around with clamps. Maybe on a long rip cut it might be different, but sure makes it quick and convenient.

There was a very small amount of tearout but I'd say very minimal, certainly as good or better than what I get from my tablesaw w/ zero clearance insert.

Overall I'm quite pleased. This tool really is a game changer in the quality of cut you can get, and how quick it sets up. The saw itself had smooth action, and wasn't awkward to use at all.

As I start to use it more, I'll hopefully get some pictures in here and more updates on the various features of the saw.