Above 1200 Sq/FT Cleaning Up My Shop

[Stas26]

It is wonderful to have you visit my place. I remember when you first found Garage Journal and spent a lot of time at Vladimir's.

There are so many interesting threads on Garage Journal I've found I really don't have time to take on more so I just stick with the ones I am familiar with. I regret missing so much good stuff on other threads but time is limited. I'm honored that you would like to read my drivel. Buy a Coke while you're here! (dimes are on top of the machine)

I prefer beer, can I read your thread?

 

[oldironfarmer]

ANDY: Stray cows in your area just roaming around?

so the one cow says to the other let's follow these gals in to that farm and get some good food and maybe a haircut. well they got more than their hairs cut.

OMG it's not easy being a cow in your neighborhood with you and your snippers handy. I'm sure there is a good reason why you do what you do or maybe you are thinking of making all your steers some BRASS BALLS?

have another great day (what day is it?).

cheers and i'm still waiting for the ice tea or sweet tea so I guess i'll have to bring tea bags, a few glass gallon pickle jars and maybe you can provide some hot water.

keep up the great work on the PURPLE CAR and sounds like its in good hands.

It's Saturday!!

Only the bulls need be concerned about castration. We use small rubber bands made for the purpose. No cutting, no blood, and seemingly just a little discomfort. As steers they are gentler and make a better carcass.

Come on, I've got hot water!

I prefer beer, can I read your thread?

Drink preferences are not considered a requirement. But you have to understand I drink no alcohol, have never had a beer. I'd make a bad Russian. I guess I haven't had much of a life...

Hope you enjoy the thread, or at least parts of it.

Little update on the Purplish Car. Finished sand blasting the headers today, and put on three coats of Eastwood rattle can ceramic coating. We'll see how it does.

No, I didn't dent the headers.

Installed the steering shaft (still need to anchor the carrier bearing)

Plenty of clearance all around. Then installed the shift linkage and it shifts smoothly. Next was cleaning up the starter and installing it. When did they start making those things so heavy?

Thanks for stopping by!

 

[BBChevro]

It'll be interesting to see how well the coating performs on the headers - when you were talking about the clearance, I was going to ask if there was time to get them ceramic coated.

Does the rattle can variant have similar insulation properties to a professional coating (I do realize that it's only on the outside)?

I experienced pretty dismal results with old-school header paint (in the '70s) - one brand wasn't too bad as long as nothing touched it when hot (it would rub off), and the other brand started flaking off within a few days.

I realize that there is no flaking off on Andy's thread, so that won't be an issue. [emoji1]



Sent from my SM-G950F using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[oldironfarmer]

This is Eastwood's ceramic coating. It's cheap (why I have it) but one can did both headers. I bought two cans just in case. I think they got a good job of sandblasting which is probably important for adhesion. It will be interesting to see how well they hold up. At least they should look nice upon delivery. Then I can accuse my son of abusing the coating if it fails (you were going to drive it? I thought it was to look at).

Time will tell and I will report results for curiosity.

 

[Hubscrub66]

I have used Eastwood manifold paint with good results. I touch them up on occasion with a foam brush while still on the car.The heat is suppose to cure it, I've used the same little can way past its self life marked on the can. But no complaints I've never had a set of headers on any of my cars so i can't say on that.

 

[Toothaker]

Progress was slow today, but still got some time in. On the way out to the barn I saw a big hawk (probably red tailed) sitting on top of a tree. He looked BIG. Just left of the post.

OK, squint

...snip...

I don't know if these are red-tailed or not, but we had some hawk visitors drop by the first week in September. Funny, the field mice in my garden disappeared around this time, too.

It's Saturday!!

...snip...

Little update on the Purplish Car. Finished sand blasting the headers today, and put on three coats of Eastwood rattle can ceramic coating. We'll see how it does.

No, I didn't dent the headers.

...snip...

Thanks for stopping by!

Andy, you're my hero. I spill oil, get overspray on my floor and generally make a mess in my garage. Then I read about these fine, showplace garages here in GJ and think I don't belong. Thank you! Seeing your overspray makes me feel at home.

Someday I'll tell everyone about the slow-motion, never ending mess I made trying to fill up the oil in a Craftsman floor jack. It took an hour or more, and the mess just kept getting worse and worse, with less and less oil in the jack. I finally had to walk away. I went and found the manual online, came back the next day and did the job in 15 minutes with no mess. :tard:

 

[Bob Heine]

Next was cleaning up the starter and installing it. When did they start making those things so heavy?

Thanks for stopping by!

Andy, I was bored a few years ago and installed stainless headers on the [small block] '87 Corvette. Couldn't put the headers in without removing the starter. It was not too heavy when it fell to the floor but gained weight just laying there.

After saying a lot of bad things about how fat it got when I tried to reinstall it, I gave up and ordered a mini-starter from Rock Auto. Not the fancy aftermarket kind but a stock 1992 Corvette starter that weighs next to nothing. OK, it was still heavy but small enough to hold and start the mounting bolts one-handed.

You can buy a rebuilt big fat starter for $25 but a brand new skinny mini is about $100. One of those "less is more" things.

 

[oldironfarmer]

I have used Eastwood manifold paint with good results. I touch them up on occasion with a foam brush while still on the car.The heat is suppose to cure it, I've used the same little can way past its self life marked on the can. But no complaints I've never had a set of headers on any of my cars so i can't say on that.

Thanks for passing on the good news. As with all paint, preparation makes a big difference. I've never bought a set of headers, either, except those that came on a car.

I don't know if these are red-tailed or not, but we had some hawk visitors drop by the first week in September. Funny, the field mice in my garden disappeared around this time, too.

Andy, you're my hero. I spill oil, get overspray on my floor and generally make a mess in my garage. Then I read about these fine, showplace garages here in GJ and think I don't belong. Thank you! Seeing your overspray makes me feel at home.

Someday I'll tell everyone about the slow-motion, never ending mess I made trying to fill up the oil in a Craftsman floor jack. It took an hour or more, and the mess just kept getting worse and worse, with less and less oil in the jack. I finally had to walk away. I went and found the manual online, came back the next day and did the job in 15 minutes with no mess. :tard:

Cool picture! The mice were just hiding, no rodents were harmed in the production of this thread. Hmmm, hawks are a protected bird, is it OK to starve them? A bit of a catch 22 here.

What's the red car? We really need to know...

Although this is Garage Journal, I don't actually have a garage, just two carports and a workshop. HooBoy, now I'll probably get banned.

But the workshop is for working. I try not to do things to damage the concrete, like using a cutting torch too close to the floor. Paint overspray, in my mind, just offers more protection to the concrete. I also kind of like seeing the resulting patchwork of jobs past. In the early nineties I got overspray on my car at work. Lot's of people signed up to get their car repainted but you had to look closely to see inorganic zinc on a gray car. I asked them to clean my windows so the paint would not wear out the windshield wipers, the car never corroded under the overspray dots. OK, I'm not normal. Oblique, I guess, or I'm in a parallel universe.

Sorry, but I think we just heard about your jack refilling adventure. You need to put a link to your thread on your signature line. I'm not very computer savvy and can't find it.

Andy, I was bored a few years ago and installed stainless headers on the [small block] '87 Corvette. Couldn't put the headers in without removing the starter. It was not too heavy when it fell to the floor but gained weight just laying there.

After saying a lot of bad things about how fat it got when I tried to reinstall it, I gave up and ordered a mini-starter from Rock Auto. Not the fancy aftermarket kind but a stock 1992 Corvette starter that weighs next to nothing. OK, it was still heavy but small enough to hold and start the mounting bolts one-handed.

You can buy a rebuilt big fat starter for $25 but a brand new skinny mini is about $100. One of those "less is more" things.

You're not normal either, Bob. I changed my starter singlehandedly but I used both hands. I challenge you to a contest. We'll each do it with one hand tied behind our back. See how good you are then, Bub.

Stainless headers are something. Glad I never get bored. Do they discolor?

Thanks for the tip on the mini mite starters, that looks like something I'll have to try. However in the pictures side by side at the bottom of your post, the "small" starter looks to be significantly bigger than the old standby. I'm confused.

Now I need some help. I put the intake manifold on today (after going to set up a shelter for the Mannford Pharmacy booth at the Chili Cookoff). Edlebrock gaskets, did not come with the neoprene front and rear seals. Their instruction sheet said they recommend using gasket maker sealant. So I did.

For the price of their gaskets you'd think they could provide the rubber pieces.

Now I need some help. Got the manifold carefully torqued down and put the engine on #1 TDC compression stroke. Lined up rotor bug (rotor beast in these distributors) and slipped the distributor in. I got that far before I realized I have no idea how to static time it. There are no points to watch open. How does everybody else do it? I suppose I can hook power to the distributor and hook up a timing light as I turn the engine. Is there a better way?

At least it's starting to look like an engine again.

Thanks for the visits!!

 

[Toothaker]

It's my 1970 Thunderbird. I'm redoing the brakes.

I haven't started a thread yet. I think if I did start my own thread nobody would be interested due to the glacial speed at which I work on it. I don't have 6 Saturdays a week like somebody we know.

 

[Mlowery]

There is a small amount of magnetism between the pick up coil and reluctor.
You can mark a spot on the housing in relation to number one terminal on the cap. With the rotor pointing toward this mark back the housing off clockwise.
As you slowly bring it back counterclockwise the rotor will jump slightly as the pick up and reluctor aline. This is the firing position. If the rotor doesn't wiggle you can actually see the alinement with the rotor off.

 

[oldironfarmer]

It's my 1970 Thunderbird. I'm redoing the brakes.

I haven't started a thread yet. I think if I did start my own thread nobody would be interested due to the glacial speed at which I work on it. I don't have 6 Saturdays a week like somebody we know.

You'll never know until you try. We have lots of fine threads that don't get updated too often.

Nice car, and I like your SK collection.

There is a small amount of magnetism between the pick up coil and reluctor.
You can mark a spot on the housing in relation to number one terminal on the cap. With the rotor pointing toward this mark back the housing off clockwise.
As you slowly bring it back counterclockwise the rotor will jump slightly as the pick up and reluctor aline. This is the firing position. If the rotor doesn't wiggle you can actually see the alinement with the rotor off.

Thank you very much! I appreciate the information.

Thanks for the comments, guys!

 

[oldironfarmer]

A little more progress this afternoon. Before I can put the headers on I need to make heat shields. Started out with cardboard from a cereal box.

It's there, just to the left of the header. Here's the view from the front, it's multi colored but you can see it on both sides of the motor mount.

And from the top without the header

And reproduced in 20 gauge sheet metal

Here's the metal one from the bottom. Not a lot of clearance.

I plan to grind the last 1/4" off the bolt because the end of the bolt is only about 1/16" from the header.

A heat shield works because radiant energy is dependent on the fourth power (squared and squared again) of the temperatures involved. A hot part can radiate a lot of energy, but a little cooler part can not radiate nearly as much. So a 600F exhaust pipe may warm a nearby heat shield to 300F. But that 300F heat shield cannot radiate enough to warm what is next to it very much. Even though the exhaust, heat shield and motor mount are all close, the heat shield will warm but it will not warm the motor mount.

Here's the other side metal heat shield in place. There's more clearance on this side because small block heads are not symmetrical. The exhaust manifolds are offset to the left of center when viewed from the exhaust. So the port side is forward and the starboard side is aft.

Heat shields are painted and should go in tomorrow. The number of things yet to be done are diminishing. Other than reassembly, I have to devise a way to bolt the carrier bearing (it had to go through the cast ear I made too-close for it). And the driver's side exhaust needs to be lowered a couple of inches. I can start that after the header is bolted on. And the front hood latches need to be remade, they were pretty flimsy.

Thanks for looking in!

 

[Toothaker]

You'll never know until you try. We have lots of fine threads that don't get updated too often.

Nice car, and I like your SK collection.
... snip...

Ok, if I make a complete fool of myself in my new thread, it's your fault. Or something.

 

[Bob Heine]

Ok, if I make a complete fool of myself in my new thread, it's your fault. Or something.

Toothaker, there will be days you regret starting a thread but those will be few and far between. You might find a long lost brother who embarrasses you on a regular basis but otherwise it's a wonderful use of your free (?) time.

 

[Toothaker]

Toothaker, there will be days you regret starting a thread but those will be few and far between. You might find a long lost brother who embarrasses you on a regular basis but otherwise it's a wonderful use of your free (?) time.

Bob, I've not commented a lot in your thread, but it is one of my regular stops here on GJ. Your humor and approach to life is one that I wish I could imitate better.

I don't think it's your brother that embarrasses you, by the way.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: great write up about making a little piece of metal a heat shield for your aluminum motor mounts. WELL DONE SIR!!

it's looking more and more like you are you going to get your son back his car in WAAAAAAY better condition than he dropped it off and maybe on a Saturday too.

if you don't get a chance to take a peek at my thread the leak in my tire is probably coming out of the sidewalls.

Tooth: I've started more than a few threads here on GJ and yes sometimes it sort of seems like you are talking to yourself, but then you get some great member's post telling you exactly what you wanted to know or hear and it's worth it. give it a try and just keep posting on it cause even though i'm not GETTING ORGANIZED very well my thread is at least keeping me thinking about it and my TO DO LIST seems to be getting some items checked off as done.

best of luck with your cool car!!

 

[Toothaker]

Andy: great write up about making a little piece of metal a heat shield for your aluminum motor mounts. WELL DONE SIR!!

it's looking more and more like you are you going to get your son back his car in WAAAAAAY better condition than he dropped it off and maybe on a Saturday too.

if you don't get a chance to take a peek at my thread the leak in my tire is probably coming out of the sidewalls.

Tooth: I've started more than a few threads here on GJ and yes sometimes it sort of seems like you are talking to yourself, but then you get some great member's post telling you exactly what you wanted to know or hear and it's worth it. give it a try and just keep posting on it cause even though i'm not GETTING ORGANIZED very well my thread is at least keeping me thinking about it and my TO DO LIST seems to be getting some items checked off as done.

best of luck with your cool car!!

Thanks, Mr. Hide. (see? I've been following along.) Your thread is another of my regular stops.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Andy well done, you are getting closer to having it back on the road.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

For the price of their gaskets you'd think they could provide the rubber pieces.
That's what Chevy does too. I always figured an Engineer set that up, but maybe it was a bean counter.

Now I need some help. Got the manifold carefully torqued down and put the engine on #1 TDC compression stroke. Lined up rotor bug (rotor beast in these distributors) and slipped the distributor in. I got that far before I realized I have no idea how to static time it. There are no points to watch open. How does everybody else do it? I suppose I can hook power to the distributor and hook up a timing light as I turn the engine. Is there a better way?

when the little pointy things are pointed right at each other, your points are just about to open. Visual is good enough. It also wants a big wire which sometimes gets overlooked.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Ok, if I make a complete fool of myself in my new thread, it's your fault. Or something.

I'll take full responsibility. I doubt you'll make a complete fool of yourself, but I'll help, so between the two of us I think we can do it!!

Toothaker, there will be days you regret starting a thread but those will be few and far between. You might find a long lost brother who embarrasses you on a regular basis but otherwise it's a wonderful use of your free (?) time.

See the insights you get having a thread. I never knew Bob knew he embarrasses me.

Bob, I've not commented a lot in your thread, but it is one of my regular stops here on GJ. Your humor and approach to life is one that I wish I could imitate better.

I don't think it's your brother that embarrasses you, by the way.

Andy: great write up about making a little piece of metal a heat shield for your aluminum motor mounts. WELL DONE SIR!!

it's looking more and more like you are you going to get your son back his car in WAAAAAAY better condition than he dropped it off and maybe on a Saturday too.

if you don't get a chance to take a peek at my thread the leak in my tire is probably coming out of the sidewalls.

Tooth: I've started more than a few threads here on GJ and yes sometimes it sort of seems like you are talking to yourself, but then you get some great member's post telling you exactly what you wanted to know or hear and it's worth it. give it a try and just keep posting on it cause even though i'm not GETTING ORGANIZED very well my thread is at least keeping me thinking about it and my TO DO LIST seems to be getting some items checked off as done.

best of luck with your cool car!!

Thanks for the kind words, Drives!

Sidewall leaks require a tube on the farm and a new tire on the highway. If you paint the wheels (which I always do if I have time) be sure the paint is well cured else the tire will stick to it. I like to leave it two weeks or more than use talcum powder on the tire when I'm mounting it.

Thanks, Mr. Hide. (see? I've been following along.) Your thread is another of my regular stops.

You're on thin ice, we try not to call him Mr. Hide.

Andy well done, you are getting closer to having it back on the road.

Thanks, Steve! He wants a headliner and A/C fixed but I'm not going to tackle those. My casting skills are getting rusty...

when the little pointy things are pointed right at each other, your points are just about to open. Visual is good enough. It also wants a big wire which sometimes gets overlooked.

OK, thanks!

I don't understand wanting a big wire. Do I have to send it money?

 

[oldironfarmer]

Not much shop time today. It's been raining and we have about three inches of mud in the cow lot. Mostly mud, there may be manure there too.

I did get the heat shields installed. In the process I had to make some half inch thick washers because I made the motor mount brackets 1/2" smaller that the motor mount opening so I'd have some adjustment. So that involved lifting the engine to get the bolts out and back in, but it all went pretty quickly.

Now you can see them on both side of the engine.

Only got one header on. Old bolts were 3/4" long and I bought 1" replacements. Some of the holes wouldn't clean out so I had to clean up a couple of old bolts.

Doctor's appointment tomorrow so another short shed syndrome day.

Thanks for stopping by. I robbed a new quote from Rian, ain't it the truth!

 

[Toothaker]

I'll take full responsibility. I doubt you'll make a complete fool of yourself, but I'll help, so between the two of us I think we can do it!!

Cool. I knew I could count on you.

You're on thin ice, we try not to call him Mr. Hide.

Ah! Drives it is. Sorry about that Drives.

I don't understand wanting a big wire. Do I have to send it money?

You're very punny.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Thanks for stopping by, Mickey!

(Things you say can and will be used against you)

 

[jblnut]

I robbed a new quote from Rian, ain't it the truth!
"Amazing how long it takes to do every piece." Rian 14/10/18

The whole Day/Month/Year date deal makes no sense to me. Whomever decided it makes more sense to go specific to vague clearly has never had the joys we have over here in the "normal" part of the world. I mean come on, the Imperial system, it doesn't get any easier to learn and remember than that !!

1 Mile = 5,280 feet
1 Yard = 3 Feet
1 Foot = 12 Inches
1 Inch has 64 64th in it (or 72 points)

1 Section = 640 Acres
1 Acre = 43,560 Square Feet
1 Square foot = 144 Square Inches

1 Hogshead = 63 Gallons
1 Gallon = 4 Quarts
1 Quart = 2 Cups
1 Cup = 8 Ounces
1 Ounce = 2 Tablespoons
1 Tablespoon = 3 Teaspoons

So you see it's an easy system that doesn't need to be muddied up with logic or consistency !!!

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Sidewall leaks require a tube on the farm and a new tire on the highway. If you paint the wheels (which I always do if I have time) be sure the paint is well cured else the tire will stick to it. I like to leave it two weeks or more than use talcum powder on the tire when I'm mounting it.



OK, thanks!

I don't understand wanting a big wire. Do I have to send it money?

No, a 12Ga will do the job, at least according to the General.

 

[Toothaker]

Thanks for stopping by, Mickey!

(Things you say can and will be used against you)

My wife can gauge how long somebody has known me by what they call me.

 

[bj383ss]

Andy good progress. The way I time an HEI is mark the position of the #1 plug on the base of the distributor with the cap on. Then when you slide the distributor in you need to line the rotor up with the mark. It should be pointing towards the #1 cylinder when you have it at zero advance. You may have to bump or turn the motor over to get the distributor to seat. That's why I always put the motor on TDC before I pull the distributor. 9 times out of 10 it goes right back in.

Also you did good using RTV on the ends of the intake. Those rubber seals NEVER work. I have always thrown those in the trash. As soon as you start torquing the bolts they most times pop right out and your have to start over. Complete junk they are.

The heat shields look good!

Bret

 

[Vieux]

Andy I'm impressed!

 

[oldironfarmer]

The whole Day/Month/Year date deal makes no sense to me. Whomever decided it makes more sense to go specific to vague clearly has never had the joys we have over here in the "normal" part of the world. I mean come on, the Imperial system, it doesn't get any easier to learn and remember than that !!

1 Mile = 5,280 feet
1 Yard = 3 Feet
1 Foot = 12 Inches
1 Inch has 64 64th in it (or 72 points)

1 Section = 640 Acres
1 Acre = 43,560 Square Feet
1 Square foot = 144 Square Inches

1 Hogshead = 63 Gallons
1 Gallon = 4 Quarts
1 Quart = 2 Cups
1 Cup = 8 Ounces
1 Ounce = 2 Tablespoons
1 Tablespoon = 3 Teaspoons

So you see it's an easy system that doesn't need to be muddied up with logic or consistency !!!

Careful, the Brits will try to explain their old currency.

You do know a chain is 16-1/2 ft, so you should know there are 320 chains to the mile. So there are 160 chains to a half mile, or the side of a 1/4 Section, which is 160 acres. Chains therefore can be used to measure acreage, chain down the road on one side of a 160 acre field and you measure one acre with each chain. It was no accident early farm equipment was 8-1/4 ft wide, 1/2 chain. Down and back in a 40 acre field was a half acre. Fill your planter and you could calibrate by refilling after one trip down and back.

No, a 12Ga will do the job, at least according to the General.

OK, I need to be dead serious. I have no idea what wire you are describing.

My wife can gauge how long somebody has known me by what they call me.

Interesting, my wife says the same. When they first meet me, it's Andrew, then it's Andy, then when they get to know me they avoid me.

Andy good progress. The way I time an HEI is mark the position of the #1 plug on the base of the distributor with the cap on. Then when you slide the distributor in you need to line the rotor up with the mark. It should be pointing towards the #1 cylinder when you have it at zero advance. You may have to bump or turn the motor over to get the distributor to seat. That's why I always put the motor on TDC before I pull the distributor. 9 times out of 10 it goes right back in.

Also you did good using RTV on the ends of the intake. Those rubber seals NEVER work. I have always thrown those in the trash. As soon as you start torquing the bolts they most times pop right out and your have to start over. Complete junk they are.

The heat shields look good!

Bret

I aligned the distributor with the slot in the oil pump then tweaked it to allow for the gear turn just like with an old distributor. Dropped right in. But I had spun the engine several times with the distributor out to check rod bearings. Now the vacuum advance is pointing toward the firewall so my method is to line up the vacuum advance then roll the engine until No. 1 is line up, then pull the distributor, twist the engine back to TDC and reinstall the distributor. Moving the crank back with the distributor out leaves the oil pump lined up with proper No. 1 rotor location so when it is reinstalled you have it where you want it. Lots of methods work, just timing it 180 degrees out doesn't.

Thanks for the advice, and your take on the rubber inserts.

Andy I'm impressed!

I'm a rank amateur compared to you, sir

But thank you for the kind words!

Have a great day, everyone!!

 

[xtremek]

It's my 1970 Thunderbird. I'm redoing the brakes.

I haven't started a thread yet. I think if I did start my own thread nobody would be interested due to the glacial speed at which I work on it. I don't have 6 Saturdays a week like somebody we know.

Go ahead and start a thread if you can afford the time, we all like sharing each others pain.

 

[Bob Heine]

Those China Wall gaskets are a problem but my big block engine builder showed me a trick that helps. He dimpled the gasket surface on the block with a center punch (about every half-inch) and the rubber gaskets never moved or leaked. I don't trust myself to keep those rubber strips lined up putting the manifold on so I use the RTV bead method.

 

[Toothaker]

Go ahead and start a thread if you can afford the time, we all like sharing each others pain.

I did. I've certainly enjoyed your pain, so it's time you get to enjoy mine. Link to the thread in my signature.

 

[Toothaker]

Those China Wall gaskets are a problem but my big block engine builder showed me a trick that helps. He dimpled the gasket surface on the block with a center punch (about every half-inch) and the rubber gaskets never moved or leaked. I don't trust myself to keep those rubber strips lined up putting the manifold on so I use the RTV bead method.

Interesting! He dimpled the block mating surface? or on the manifold?

 

[Rex_A_Lott]

The reference to the big wire is concerning the power to the distributor. The old points distributors had a resistor or a resistor wire feeding them power. The HEI that you have likes a full 12 volts, and needs to be fed by a 12 or even a 10 ga wire to make sure it gets it.
Years ago a lot of people had trouble when they retro fitted an HEI into an older car because the resistor wire was built into the old harness, and got over looked.
If you were not having trouble before, someone probably took care of that on the initial build, but it doesn't hurt to check. Good luck!

 

[oldironfarmer]

The reference to the big wire is concerning the power to the distributor. The old points distributors had a resistor or a resistor wire feeding them power. The HEI that you have likes a full 12 volts, and needs to be fed by a 12 or even a 10 ga wire to make sure it gets it.
Years ago a lot of people had trouble when they retro fitted an HEI into an older car because the resistor wire was built into the old harness, and got over looked.
If you were not having trouble before, someone probably took care of that on the initial build, but it doesn't hurt to check. Good luck!

Thanks! I hadn't thought about running the distributor on 6v but would have guessed 6v would fire it adequately. Sometimes I'm wrong. Don't know how this is set up, but the 12v bypass terminal on the solenoid is not hooked up. I'll check, maybe, it's got to be checked running and that may be hard.

 

[drivesitfar]

Andy: the engine is looking great and sounds like you are getting the fine tuning done as you finish it up.

I had to laugh when you mentioned painting the 30+ year old sidewalls on my trailer tires. Man you do know how to get the most out of a tire. can you really put a tube inside an airless tire was your other option?

just curious if there are any ill side effects of cows standing in water? that said when we took our trip through the midwest there were a few stockyards where hundreds of cattle were standing in about a foot or so of water in a low spot in the yard. of course their lives were coming to an end soon.

it's another great day in paradise here and hope you get a little sun to dry out the farm after that rain that sounded like a week's worth in a day.

cheers (yep i'm still drinking homemade ice tea and chai)

 

[oldironfarmer]

Go ahead and start a thread if you can afford the time, we all like sharing each others pain.

Those China Wall gaskets are a problem but my big block engine builder showed me a trick that helps. He dimpled the gasket surface on the block with a center punch (about every half-inch) and the rubber gaskets never moved or leaked. I don't trust myself to keep those rubber strips lined up putting the manifold on so I use the RTV bead method.

That's a nice idea. I've glued them down with gasket sealer and never had a problem. But that's only a few times. I don't have much experience.

I did. I've certainly enjoyed your pain, so it's time you get to enjoy mine. Link to the thread in my signature.

Interesting! He dimpled the block mating surface? or on the manifold?

The block is what he said. And I believe him, usually...

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy: the engine is looking great and sounds like you are getting the fine tuning done as you finish it up.

I had to laugh when you mentioned painting the 30+ year old sidewalls on my trailer tires. Man you do know how to get the most out of a tire. can you really put a tube inside an airless tire was your other option?

I meant painting the tire side of the rim, I thought that's what you were talking about painting the wheels. You cannot put a tube in an airless tire, there's no space to do it. But in a tubeless tire, tubes fit in really well even though you may have to drill out the stem hole to 5/8".

just curious if there are any ill side effects of cows standing in water? that said when we took our trip through the midwest there were a few stockyards where hundreds of cattle were standing in about a foot or so of water in a low spot in the yard. of course their lives were coming to an end soon.

it's another great day in paradise here and hope you get a little sun to dry out the farm after that rain that sounded like a week's worth in a day.

cheers (yep i'm still drinking homemade ice tea and chai)

Too much time in the water can promote foot rot in cattle. Mine don't stand in water except to eat after a rain. It will dry in a few days. They don't seem to notice - if it's dry on one side and wet on the other they just indiscriminately walk right up where it's easiest.

Sun is shining and it's a great day!

 

[Bob Heine]

Interesting! He dimpled the block mating surface? or on the manifold?

Toothaker, he always did the block rather than the manifold. He also knew I wouldn't be happy with the manifold he gave me. It was low profile so the stock big block hood would close and made of aluminum. It was an Edelbrock Streetmaster II single plane and was designed to reduce emissions. It performed worse than the stock cast iron manifold.

 

[bj383ss]

Toothaker, he always did the block rather than the manifold. He also knew I wouldn't be happy with the manifold he gave me. It was low profile so the stock big block hood would close and made of aluminum. It was an Edelbrock Streetmaster II single plane and was designed to reduce emissions. It performed worse than the stock cast iron manifold.

I have read about those terrible "emissions" performance manifolds. They got a bad rap. Bob the rubber seals for the small block chevy's in most kits actually have little ******* on them but these only work in the really old style blocks like 265, 283, and 327. Basically ones that have the road draft setup instead of pcv. Most newer style gen I blocks don't have the holes anymore.

Bret