bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome, Cody, cool car congrats.
Cody's 33'x62' Garage
- Thread starter madison069
- Start date
jon72vega
Well-known member
Awesome!
OP
madison069
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gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I’m sure you will have extras, so you need to take one copy and separate and frame your cover and the month it’s featured for the new garage.
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madison069
Well-known member
I know the guy who designed the calendar and I can probably get the PDF of the cover and feature story page. Just need to decide how to get them printed out on poster size photo paper stuff!
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madison069
Well-known member
Organized the 1/2” drive socket drawer. You might can tell I got a good bit of Wright tools.
The first three rails are Wright metric size, then a rail of Craftsman metric even though I got Wright standard metric sockets. The fifth rail is Challenger made by Proto and they are SAE size. Then it goes to Wright deep metric and SAE sockets, then the rear deep sockets are Challenger SAE and a set of Pittsburgh Impact Metric size socket.
The rail by the extension bin are Wright metric standard impact sockets. The loose stuff are mixed sizes I acquired but isn’t part of a set.
Here are extra that I don’t need and they are triplets and most are foreign made sprinkled with a few USA.
The Wright Impact standard metric sockets rail is missing the 13mm, 15mm, and 17mm. I can get replacements on eBay. To me those are the only 6pt metric sockets I have in 1/2” drive and seems logical to have those size for the Subaru.
It’s a sickness with completing the sets.
The first three rails are Wright metric size, then a rail of Craftsman metric even though I got Wright standard metric sockets. The fifth rail is Challenger made by Proto and they are SAE size. Then it goes to Wright deep metric and SAE sockets, then the rear deep sockets are Challenger SAE and a set of Pittsburgh Impact Metric size socket.
The rail by the extension bin are Wright metric standard impact sockets. The loose stuff are mixed sizes I acquired but isn’t part of a set.
Here are extra that I don’t need and they are triplets and most are foreign made sprinkled with a few USA.
The Wright Impact standard metric sockets rail is missing the 13mm, 15mm, and 17mm. I can get replacements on eBay. To me those are the only 6pt metric sockets I have in 1/2” drive and seems logical to have those size for the Subaru.
It’s a sickness with completing the sets.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
I get it, I went through that a few months ago when I was organizing the new box.
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madison069
Well-known member
Glad I’m not missing a lot, but I need to sell my extra to make back what I paid for the missing sockets.
My extras
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madison069
Well-known member
Next up was the 3/8” drive sockets.
Just a big jumble of sockets
Pulled them out and sorted them via metric, sae, or extra.
SAE
Metric
Put the the SAE and Metric back in the drawer minus the Wright box set. I go some socket rails coming in the mail to clean up the mess an also transfer the Wright sockets from the box to the drawer.
Just a big jumble of sockets
Pulled them out and sorted them via metric, sae, or extra.
SAE
Metric
Put the the SAE and Metric back in the drawer minus the Wright box set. I go some socket rails coming in the mail to clean up the mess an also transfer the Wright sockets from the box to the drawer.
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madison069
Well-known member
Then it was the 1/2” and 3/8” ratchet drawer.
Here is the 1/2” ratchets I have
The 3/8” rstchet
I also have the Wright ratchets from the box to put in the rotation
I also have this 1/2” SAE Wright socket set and ratchet to put in the rotation.
With the Wright sitting in the boxes, I’m not using them. These Wrights were my dad’s so I’d like to put them to use instead of letting them sit idle.
That’s it for tonight, I’m not sure what ratchet I want to keep and get rid of, so I’ll wait for another day to sort them.
Here is the 1/2” ratchets I have
The 3/8” rstchet
I also have the Wright ratchets from the box to put in the rotation
I also have this 1/2” SAE Wright socket set and ratchet to put in the rotation.
With the Wright sitting in the boxes, I’m not using them. These Wrights were my dad’s so I’d like to put them to use instead of letting them sit idle.
That’s it for tonight, I’m not sure what ratchet I want to keep and get rid of, so I’ll wait for another day to sort them.
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madison069
Well-known member
Well I got a burst of thought “energy” and just sorted the ratchets.
What I kept,
And the growing piles of extra.
That’s it fo tonight.
What I kept,
And the growing piles of extra.
That’s it fo tonight.
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
We all know you can't have too many sockets, ratchets, etc. but if SWMBO saw them, the yard sale sign would be up in a second, with tools for sale in all CAPS.... 
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madison069
Well-known member
I’m sure the day I’m gone, there would be a yard sale sign up and my wife would be planning her trip to somewhere south of Texas!We all know you can't have too many sockets, ratchets, etc. but if SWMBO saw them, the yard sale sign would be up in a second, with tools for sale in all CAPS....
But as long as I’m alive she doesn’t say much about me buying tools since I’m her do it all handyman. I just fixed her oven with $60 worth of parts last week, she said she would have just bought a new stove if she was single. I guess she was saying I’m worthy of keeping around,
But honestly, when you got too much tools, you start wasting time on digging for stuff and not really working. So moving forward I’m looking at making my organization more efficient and also declutter the collection cause I don’t want to bring it into the new garage.
I’m hoping when I move back, I get a nice 24-30” deep toolbox and that would allow me to transfer all my hand tools into one big 72” wide toolbox and possibly have room for more as I progress on stuff I work on. I’ve been eyeing the Homak toolboxes since they are headquartered and manufacture their toolboxes in Wampum, PA which is close to me. Local mechanics like them and says they haven’t had any issues with their boxes in the past years they’ve owned theirs.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Too bad I’m retired, I’d be trying to get you to go for an 84” Epic, that would solve all your tool storage/organization woes!
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madison069
Well-known member
Dude, that would seriously cut into my lift budget! I’m talking $4,800 you talking $20,000!Too bad I’m retired, I’d be trying to get you to go for an 84” Epic, that would solve all your tool storage/organization woes!
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madison069
Well-known member
Before I left for a show, I worked on striping the paint off my welding table. Want to clean it up and modify it before I take it to the new garage.
Before,
After, I got 3 legs fully stripped, but need to strip the inside and one other side.
I’m thinking of just cutting this down in height, maybe something at 30” high instead of the current 40” or whatever it is. I think it’s just too tall to eel comfortably and at a lower height I can just sit down while welding.
I’ll work on it some more tomorrow.
Before,
After, I got 3 legs fully stripped, but need to strip the inside and one other side.
I’m thinking of just cutting this down in height, maybe something at 30” high instead of the current 40” or whatever it is. I think it’s just too tall to eel comfortably and at a lower height I can just sit down while welding.
I’ll work on it some more tomorrow.
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madison069
Well-known member
I thought I told yall to keep the back door closed!!?
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madison069
Well-known member
Cleaning that steel plate to is going to take a while. Belt sander is knocking the rough stuff down, but the pitting is deep.
Think I’m going to work on it some more and then convert the left over rust before one final sanding and then coating it with oil.
After going over the table, I’m just going to change the wheels to knock 5” off the height. Cleaning it up and paint the frame is basically all I’m going to do in the end. Atleast it won’t be a rusty table when it goes to the new garage.
Think I’m going to work on it some more and then convert the left over rust before one final sanding and then coating it with oil.
After going over the table, I’m just going to change the wheels to knock 5” off the height. Cleaning it up and paint the frame is basically all I’m going to do in the end. Atleast it won’t be a rusty table when it goes to the new garage.
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madison069
Well-known member
So more progress on the steel top, after sanding on it for an hour.
Threw down some paper towels and soaked it in this metal ready stuff I had from POR-15. It’s called rust remover, but based on the zinc phosphate, I think it’s just a converter. Left it to soak for an hour since the directions said just 30 minutes but longer if it’s really bad.
Then I rinsed it off with water that I transported from inside the house since I had the water shut off to the garage due to the freezing temps.
After wiping it down with some rags I took this blow torch and dried it off.
Is it just me, or does it look worst?
I think I’m going to paint the frame, but I will still be working on that steel top with some more flapper wheels. Possibly just go at it with some grinding disc.
Threw down some paper towels and soaked it in this metal ready stuff I had from POR-15. It’s called rust remover, but based on the zinc phosphate, I think it’s just a converter. Left it to soak for an hour since the directions said just 30 minutes but longer if it’s really bad.
Then I rinsed it off with water that I transported from inside the house since I had the water shut off to the garage due to the freezing temps.
After wiping it down with some rags I took this blow torch and dried it off.
Is it just me, or does it look worst?
I think I’m going to paint the frame, but I will still be working on that steel top with some more flapper wheels. Possibly just go at it with some grinding disc.
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madison069
Well-known member
Double post
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madison069
Well-known member
Some tool box cleanup and organizing.
All my 1/4” drive ratchets and extensions.
In the drawer,
My 1/4” sockets,
I have a 1/4” go box that tends to get picked up and taken to the project. These are basically extra.
Then my collections of torx, hex, and other various odd ball socket drive.
I ended up leaving the plastic boxes alone and just put them back in the bottom drawer. Seems I got extra of several sizes, so if something pops up where I don’t have it in the drawer, then I’ll pull the blowmodes.
That’s pretty much it for tonight. I put a bunch of extras in the box, I need to pull the truck toolbox and the forester toolbox and see if there’s anything they need from the extra box.
All my 1/4” drive ratchets and extensions.
In the drawer,
My 1/4” sockets,
I have a 1/4” go box that tends to get picked up and taken to the project. These are basically extra.
Then my collections of torx, hex, and other various odd ball socket drive.
I ended up leaving the plastic boxes alone and just put them back in the bottom drawer. Seems I got extra of several sizes, so if something pops up where I don’t have it in the drawer, then I’ll pull the blowmodes.
That’s pretty much it for tonight. I put a bunch of extras in the box, I need to pull the truck toolbox and the forester toolbox and see if there’s anything they need from the extra box.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I wouldn't worry too much about making that table look good as much as making sure it's flat, and clean. That's the important part. You can gradually fill in the pits as you weld on other things.
OP
madison069
Well-known member
I hear ya. When I got this table it was sitting outside and from the look of it, it was a long time before I got it. The person I got it from said it was used in a machine shop repairing huge boat propellers and so the threaded holes on the top was used to anchor the device that allow easy rotation of the prop. Still though, I can’t figure out the pattern of the holes as some were probably electrical whip clamps spots, but the other seems very random.
But overall, I want to make it more presentable before it goes to the new garage.
Weld table looks like an excuse to go buy the Harbor freight surface conditioning tool!
Attachments
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madison069
Well-known member
Is that really a big difference then a belt sander? I was thinking of one, but wasn’t sure if I wanted to invest in one right now.
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madison069
Well-known member
Got the table primed. According to the instructions I have to wait 24 hrs before I can top coat it.
Acetone was used to clean it, and the rest was used to prime. I used hardener to hopefully make it more durable like the Camaro frame when I used the same paint combo. Mineral spirits was to thin the paint. The ratio was 8:1:1 to spray through my harbor freight purple gun.
Hopefully I can spray the top coat tomorrow.
Acetone was used to clean it, and the rest was used to prime. I used hardener to hopefully make it more durable like the Camaro frame when I used the same paint combo. Mineral spirits was to thin the paint. The ratio was 8:1:1 to spray through my harbor freight purple gun.
Hopefully I can spray the top coat tomorrow.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Purple gun is on sale for $9.99 this week @ HF!
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madison069
Well-known member
Apparently I have 2 new paint guns I’ve never taken out of the box,
But I do like the purple gun for general painting like this table or high build primer.
But for $10, that’s a good price and makes me want to get another one.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
I have a bunch of old pallet racks that I got from Sam‘s Club. The Sam’s was originally a Price Club and all the racks were blue. District manager had all of that stuff replaced in the late 90’s and every morning for a month if you went with a truck or trailer you could have the old stuff for FREE! I’m almost out of my stash but the stuff I still have has spent years outside and is pretty beat up and faded. So before I put it up in the new shop I want to try to paint it RustOleum black, all one color! I’ve picked up a couple purple guns and all the supplies you guys that have done this before recommended. Might go get a couple more just cuz! Must be some more really good deals….
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madison069
Well-known member
I could only find the hardener at tractor supply supply in my area. Not sure how hard it will be to find it in your area.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
What I got! On the can of RustOleum it calls for thinning with acetone, you ever use acetone?
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madison069
Well-known member
I don’t think so, I usually follow the instructions and for the primer it said mineral spirits. Checking the paint tds it says the solvent is mineral spirits.
Yet on Home Depot website it says Rustoleum said to thin it with Acetone by 15% for a sprayer.
I have to go back and see what I said to the camaro fender and frame in this thread.
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madison069
Well-known member
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madison069
Well-known member
So back on post 130, it appears I used acetone when I did the gloss black on the fenders, firewall, and frame.
Which is good cause I just bought a new gallon of acetone today.
Glad I saw this after I left HF today!
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madison069
Well-known member
So the instructions on th can says I can thin with either mineral spirits or acetone.
Guess it really don’t matter.
Guess it really don’t matter.